Bill90Loyale

Greetings all. The blower resistor finally failed on my 90 Loyale with about 225K on the clock. Struck out at the local boneyard. Anyone know of a good source used, or a decent price source new? Mine is the black plastic with about a five inch pigtail to four wire connector. Not the white plastic box with holes in it. Thank you very much in advance. Bill

Just a wacky thought: Rough up the surface of the stripped spindles with a file. Clean surface with acetone or rubbing alcohol. Apply fairly thick layer of JB Weld to spindle. Spray inside of handle with silicone spray. Press handle onto spindle while JB still soft. Allow JB to firm up for about 20 minutes. Pull handle off (maybe:eek:). Let dry, then replace handle onto hardened "teeth". With luck, you might have a usable setup without replacing the hardware.

Two things to consider from the archives: 1. Bushings in distributor headed south; or 2. Alternator on the fritz.

Smart man. The brakes just gotta be there when you need 'em most.

My 90 Loyale rear brake line failed catastrophically (as in pedal to the floor on a downhill left). I drove it straight to my mechanic (gingerly) using the e-brake handle for the five mile ride. New line, good to go, and it wasn't that bad $$ though I don't recall the price. My point in posting: All you '90 and older Subie owners out there would be wise to consider a preemptive strike. Replace your rear brake lines NOW. They rust out at the hangers and can lead to sudden and complete failure.

I'm not too sure about your englash, but your Polash is really good.

This is my arrangement except I've got it mounted an inch or more further aft. I use the same size cup every day so I don't have need to use the sliding cup-size adjuster much. Works for me and makes for a solid, reliable holder that works in the curves and on abrupt stops.

Nope. Fits on the driver side of the ebrake handle, neatly between the handle and the seat cushion. Looks oem. Don't have a picture for you, but it's the most "oem" setup you can do. And the cup is at your right hand just waiting to be picked up and put back. It's so much fun that sometimes I do it without even taking a sip. You can add it to your cell phone and blackberry collection of driving distractions for only $4.

Try cicada my child. You're in for the 17 year visit this year IIRC. That bug is older than you are.

Yes there is. Go to WalMart. Buy a "Spillmaster Euro Junior" for about $4. Remove the coin tray below the parking brake handle. Mount the cupholder to the tray by drilling a hole in the tray and using a locknut and bolt. Replace the tray. Done. The spillmaster is adjustable for cup size. Mine has worked fine for years.

http://www.autogeek.net/blackagainkit.html

I use Baldwin. So do the truckers. And they rely on their engines for a living.

+1.

Check all air hose connections at airbox.

I may not end up resolving this with a nice clean cheap solution, but it sure feels good to know that other good soobers are as ignorant as I am about the catalytic converter setup on our fine cheap beasts. Thanks for posting. I'll just keep rattling around town for now like a guy who can't afford a $500 muffler job. Which is what I am.

Thanks again gents. Had the rear (small) cat (or resonator or whatever that thing was) cut off by my exhaust man about two months ago after the pipe broke on the connection there. We're a non-emissions check state. So it's straight piped from the main cat aft to the muffler now. The guts in my main cat rattle around and are an annoyance, but I can't legally straight pipe the whole thing. The aftermarket cat options are confusing for the ignorant, such as myself. The cheap $59 deals appear to be the "rear" (small) cat that I don't want. Can I just find the cheapest "front" cat and have the exhaust boys mount it, like they would a new muffler - or am I looking at a more complicated cat+Y Pipe arrangement?

Thank you gentlemen. I can't go used because it's illegal here to mount a used one, and I don't have the torches/cutting tools/bending gear etc. to do my own exhaust work. Looks like universal aftermarket is about as cheap as I can hope for. Thank you for the input. Bill

1. Yes. 2. No.

Problem: Crumbling old catalytic converter. Best Cheap Solution: ????????????

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64407&highlight=new+owner+maintenance You can pick up a Haynes manual for about $15. Sears has decent socket sets and wrenches for reasonable prices. What you teach yourself on this car will help you for the rest of your life. Good luck.

Sounds like a 35.http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/ Have you checked your fusible links? If yes, then I'd start honing in on the air flow meter.

Give it a try. Great stuff. About once a year in the spring. Cleans the carbon out, a bit more often if steady short trips.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=65012&highlight=seafoam+intake

This is in the mild PIA category. Here's what I'd recommend: Go to the local auto parts store. Tell them you're looking for a "Trim Removal Tool". Should be less than $5. It's a fairly thin sort of twin flat blade that splits into a Y at the end. The rubber moulding is held on by plastic clips that press into the molding, and then little plastic nipples on the clips are inserted into holes in the sheet metal of your door, quarter panels etc. Using the tool, you insert behind the moulding, where the clips are located, and carefully pinch the plastic barbs on the nipple that "grab" the holes. This is simpler than I'm making it sound. Practice on a small section of moulding at the rear so you can see how they're set up. When you break one or more of the clips (which you probably will), don't be fooled if the parts guy says you have to buy a whole new moulding to get the clips. You don't. I think this is the right part number you're looking for: THE PART NUMBER FOR THE PLASTIC CLIPS: 91083AC100

How many miles on the timing belts on the chase car? (oops, thanks Edrach :-)