Bill90Loyale

I recently developed a clutch judder (skipping, jerking during 1st gear engage) on cold start up. Problem gone after engine warm. Car is a 90 loyale w/212k on the clock. Clutch was rebuilt (new pp, pilot bearing, throwout bearing) about 35k ago. Question for the gurus: Can I adjust my way out of this, or am I looking at another rebuild? Thanks for your thoughts. Bill

On the other hand, you might see how the existing carpet looks if you remove it from the car and really clean it. That's what I did. Gotta remove the seats and some trim, but then the carpet is removable. I dumped a bunch of Simple Green on mine, then brought it to the local spray it yourself car wash. You'd be amazed. Not new and plush, but it wasn't plush when new so who cares? The biggest mistake I made was allowing the sound deadening padding underneath to get too wet - that stuff is like a sponge and takes days to dry out.

Billy- The link is at the bottom of my post. once you get to the 1st subaru site, go to parts lookup, plug in your make, model, year info, then when you get the parts page, instead of trying to guess "engine" or "electrical" or ?......just drop to the parts search, and type in "coolant", then wait: With this method, I found a coolant temp sensor for $33.30 for my 90 Loyale. https://www.1stsubaruparts.com/partscat.html

picture is worth a thousand words http://www.main.experiencetherave.co...s/DCP_2477.JPG It's the brown connector

I'm putting my money on Cabron and Cookie. Coolant temp sensor.

I'd be tempted to double-check the air intake, particularly a one or two inch diameter black hose sort of at the bottom engine side of the air filter box. That hose can become loosened or disconnected, especially when changing the air filter. Can cause idle and no-start problems due to vacuum leak.

And if your battery is getting older (four plus years), you might want to start that new alt with a new battery as well. Bad batteries put a strain on alternators.

I agree with the remarks above. Bitter medicine, but good advice. My own approach to ticks and leaks, which has worked effectively: 1. Replace the oil pump and o pump o ring 2. Replace the oil pan gasket 3. Replace the valve cover gaskets. What this does is increase oil pressure to your hydraulic lash adjusters (which are the "tickers"), and stops the most common sources of leakage. All of this stuff, like the buzzing shifter, can be put off indefinitely if you wish. It's all annoying, but won't do any long term harm. If you want to run a nice quiet clean operation, then this stuff is worth doing. The oil pump job is best left to the time you replace your timing belts (every 60k miles) because a lot of the hassle has to be done to access the belts.

If you go new, try to get one with a "lifetime warranty." My last radiator (new) rotted out in the lower corner near the drain plug and began leaking after five years of use. My mechanic replaced it with a radiator that came with a lifetime warranty. I don't know if this was a brand thing or a supplier thing, so I can't steer you to a specific manuafacturer.

Recommendation: Call the local dealer, ask for parts. Explain the issue, and ask the parts person to confirm that the parts in question will fit the 89. My bet is they will. Meanwhile, here's a link to a popular online parts source: http://oem.thepartsbin.com

Hooziewhatsit is right. Use this method. Cranking the starter for more than about 15 seconds can overheat it and damage the starter.

I'm with Spiffy. Have you siphoned that fuel yet? I had a nightmare like this with a Volvo P1800 once (which sat over a Minnesota winter) and it turned out that I was trying to start it on water (which had condensed in the tank and, I think, made it into the tank from a faulty drain hole in the gas cap area). If timing is good, spark is good, wires are set up correctly, then focus again on the potential for water in the tank. P.S. An alternative to siphoning is to unplug the fuel line on the engine side of the fuel filter and turning the car over to pump fuel into a container. Be cautious (if it ain't water coming out, then it's gasoline). If you end up trying to dump fuel down the throttle body again, use starter fluid, not gasoline. P.S.S. Dead Mass Air Flow meter is good advice too... Keep the faith. You'll find the problem.

Cynthia- Apologies for the "guy" thing. I was typing too fast and thinking too slow. If it's the shifter buzz that I have referred to, the primary symptoms are a buzzing noise that's annoying in the cabin, along with a noticable high frequency vibration on the shifter knob. You might swear that the knob itself has somehow worked itself loose and just needs tightening. So I would suggest that if you hear an annoying buzzing sound, as well as feeling the shift knob vibrating, then the odds are good that it's the repair I've been talking about. If none of the above, then see if you can find an old subie mechanic (or "japanese auto specialist") - someone whose seen a lot of old subies - and get his or HER opinion. Hang in there, these cars are worth their weight in gold. Bill

I've had this setup for years. No problems. Looks like it belongs there. Good luck. Bill

Speaking for myself, I'm just a poor slob raising three kids and a non-income producing wife. Sorry. No digital camera. No cell phone. No IPOD.

My approach is a mix of the above. Step 1: Go to Wal*Mart. Purchase a Spillmaster Euro Junior adjustable mug holder (auto section, about $3.79 and, for the moment, made in America). Go home. Park Loyale. Step 2: Remove the coin tray under the hand brake (push the front edge toward the rear and pull up, it'll pop out. This is also what you have to do to adjust the hand brake). Place the Euro Jr. on the coin tray in the position that you want it - open the mug holder so that you reveal the screw mount hole in the base of the mug holder. Drill a hole in the coin tray in the location that will allow mounting of the Euro onto the tray. Step 3: Go to hardware store and buy a bolt, nut and lock washer of the right length and diameter. Step 4: Mount Euro Jr. to coin tray. Step 5: Install coin tray back in the Loyale. Step 6: Custom adjust your adjustable Euro to your cool coffee mug. Step 7: Enjoy taking those sharp turns with your steaming mug securely nesting in your custom-mounted $3.79 adjustable mug holder. It doesn't get any better than this.

Russ is right. Here's the basic procedure. 1. Order the parts in my email above (except the $25 one, unless you're the kind of guy who likes new stuff even if the old part is basically sound). 2. When the parts arrive, place a six pack in the refrigerator. 3. Remove shift knob by pulling down on the rubber accordian boot at the base of the knob and unscrewing the knob ccw from the shifter rod. 4. Remove the rubber shifting boot by pulling it off from the lip of the base (if there is a retainer bracket with screws at the base remove that to remove the boot). Now the guts are visible from the top. 5. Jack the car up and place on jackstands. 6. Crawl underneath with a flashlight and inspect the linkages to familiarize yourself with the setup. 7. Now the job becomes pretty self-evident. You'll see as you go. In a nutshell, you want to remove the shift lever (rod) from the car to replace the plastic ball and black rubber sheath or bushing over the ball. The old pieces will show you how the new pieces fit. The hardest part of the removal, as I recall, is a two or four inch pin removal in the linkage - not a whole lot of clearance to get it out (you'll see), but be patient. You'll get it out. Some of the repair is done from the top, and some from underneath. 8. When you have your nice new ball and sheath ready, grease everything up with a nice stiff wheel bearing grease and reassemble. 9. Remove jacks, and take her for a test drive. 10. Open the refrigerator.

Cynthia and GD- Here's a description of my experience with shifter "buzzing" - and the fix. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=36469&highlight=shifter+buzz

I agree wholeheartedly with Heartless. P.S. I spent $1500 on a loyale about 8 years ago. I've put 120,000 on it myself. The car now has 220k on it. Timing belts, tires, oil, coolant. I did, however, overlook the teat drive. I won't let that happen again. Bill

Cynthia- You might find this thread of interest. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15327

Torxx Check out this earlier post from Tom Rhere: If the front and rear TS bulbs are lit, it would point towards the flasher(s) being bad, (or missing). There's 2 flashers, 1 for TS, 1 for E-Flashers. And yes, they are "fun" to get to... Now, (some FYI here), if the rear TS bulb is blown, your front one and the dash indicator will light but not blink. If a front one blows, the rear and dash indicator will blink rapidly. This is only for the TS system. The E-F will/should blink regardless if a bulb is out. This is providing that the flasher unit(s) are good. You can use either flasher unit in either circuit. Putting an E-F unit on the TS will slow the blink rate slightly. Putting a TS unit on the E-F will speed up the blink rate. I usually use the heavy-duty E-F unit on both circuits. This will be benificial if you tow a trailer, as the TS bulbs on the trailer will change the blink rate due to added load on circuit.

I've had good results with a "fifty mile rule": When light starts to glow, relax, you've got fifty miles easy. Once you do that 50 miles, start looking for a station. I've never run out of gas and now have 211K on the car.

8140c about 4 years. No problems. Keep your OEM coil in the trunk.

May God rest her beautiful soul.

211,000 miles. Target: Moonshot. 238,000. Slow coolant leak waiting for warm weather to find. Running strong. Over and out.