Dirk

Pic of exhaust less the main muffler

I pulled an exaust from a donor EA81 today. It has one more chamber in it than mine. I'm guessing the first chamber at the header end is a resonator Second chamber must be a pre muffler Third chamber main muffler. Does this sound about right? Also can some one tell me what these parts do and what is inside them and which bits I can do without? The exhaust pipe had a fair bit of rusty water in it. Does this mean its toast? Cheers. Dirk.

YIPPEEE! New brake pads. No more clicky! Cheers to all for help. Dirk.

Cool. I wasn't really looking forward to cutting a hole in the hood anyway. Nice to know it works though.

Cool! The thing that still bothers me though is still the rain and bugs and dirt being directed straight at the air filter. Maybe ok for a track car but not so handy for a daily driver.

I think I have found what I'm looking for: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Turbos/auction-323153976.htm http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Turbos/auction-323339457.htm Any comments on these products?

I was wondering if there is a way to channel air into a carburetor by using some sort of air scoop. Could this be done without channeling bugs and bad weather in there too? would it help increase engine power? cheers Dirk.

Looks that only a mother could love! Or a soob enthusiast.

Just read the links that Petersubaru posted. I think they are more usful than my comments. Deffinately good reading. A good ground wire is for sure a sound suggestion. Also I failed to mention that aluminium alloys frequently contain amounts of zinc and magnesium which are quite reactive elements. Typically zinc and magnesium sacrificial anodes are used on boats to reduce corrosion of vulnerable parts (engine, proper and shaft etc) Cheers Dirk. P.S. sorry about the bad spelling. Its Saturday morning here and the coffee has yet to kick in.

Been a long time since I had to think about this kind of thing but here goes: The radiator is made from copper that is lead lined. The engine block and cooling routes are aluminium. Lead is fairly inert and more importantly far more inert than aluminium. Therefore any corrosion that would occur would be to the engine block and not the radiator. Also because the % of aluminium block to lead in the radiator is far greater the % of corrosion to the block will be nominal over many years. Therefore I think this can be considered not to be an isssue to worry about. If the block is steel then the steel will corrode. Again this will have nominal affect to the block but the corrosion deposits could potentially block the radiator or cooling routes. No doubt someone will be able to either confirm or correct me on this. Cheers Dirk.

Nice one guys. Thanks. Will check it out asap. Was thinking along these lines but couldn't work out why it would not be spotted when the bearings were replaced. Dirk.

Hey. No the new bearing made no real difference. But the noise is intermitent. Might not hear it for days and then it will come back again. Dirk.

Thanks guys. The thing is CV and DO joints were replaced only 3 years ago. I remember the feeling and sound of the joints before they were replaced (especialy on cornering) and this is a similar noise but much higher pitch and like I say it dissapears when cornering or even if I dab the brakes lightly. Also it has no affect on the feeling of the car. Mostly it happens when I am driving in a straight line and is not affected whether I have power on or not. I'm not saying you are wrong, I'm just surprised that it would be this. regards Dirk

I have a strange clicking noise coming from my right front wheel. It is intermitent but when I hear it it sounds similar to having a stone stuck in the tyre. The click mostly stops when turning or when braking. I thought it was a wheel bearing but ive since had this replaced. Any ideas? Cheers. Dirk.

What do your spark plugs look like?

If it were me I would be checking the timing and the vacume advance. Maybe check vacume hoses for leaks.

Me and my little monster (don't let the inocent look fool you) on the day I got married for the second time to the same woman....... long story.

Still in business! As made by our clever little Kiwi's I spoke to the man yesterday and he still has a pair on the shelf, and also the origional molds that he will be casting again soon. Plus he has all the specs for the tuned cam shafts. Heads rocker covers and cam shaft for about 3500 kiwi dollars! http://www.autoflight.co.nz/contact.php Oh yeah, there is also a new pair of heads for sale on trademe for 3000 kiwis. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Aircraft/Aircraft/auction-282029676.htm Cheers Dirk

Better late than never.

Okie Dokie. She is back on the market! Again... This time I know what I'm doing. Got my eye on a gen 1 brat as compensation. She is listed on Trademe. http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Cars/Subaru/1600/auction-286266146.htm Also more pics here! http://s804.photobucket.com/albums/yy327/Dirk27/Green%20Machine/

Nice one man! Good luck. Don't forget to post plenty of picks. Oh yeah, I don't know if you have done this before but there is a bolt inside one of the oil chambers that will have to come out before you split the block. Just giving you the heads up because I didn't know it was there and couldn't understand why the damn thing wasn't coming apart! http://www.bowdenengineparts.co.nz/ This guy looked after me pretty well. Cheers

Not that I know of. But then I've only had her for 4 years.

Well, I couldn't do it in the end. Have just withdrawn her from trademe. I don't know how it happened but instead of selling green machine we have just bought a 1988 Alfa 33! We are going to sell the wifes corrola instead. Look out on the OT for pics of our beautiful new 33 with 1.5 boxer engine! Cheers Dirk

Alright, Ill come clean and tell you why I asked. I was changing the oil on the wifes car and thought I would do a compression test while I was at it. Two cylinders came up really low. About 60psi. Then as I was putting everything back together (I had to remove the air cleaner to access N.O. 2 and 3 plugs) it occured to me that I had done the test with out any oil in the engine. (yes she has a non soob car but I wanted to post here so I omitted that detail) It wouldn't have taken long to re-do the test but I had other things to do that day so I just pulled the most accessible plug and tested it (with oil run back through the engine). It came back up to about 160psi. Interestingly even with the HT leads dissconected from the other three plugs it felt like me that the engine turned over much faster with the plugs in. Which is why I wondered if the reading was indicative or not. P.s. curiosity finally got the better of me and I tested again yesterday with all the plugs out and all cylinders were within 3 pecent of each other. so all ends well. Cheers Dirk.

Nice one. Thanks man.