Dirk

You bloody legend! This is just the kind of info I was looking for. Plus I finaly know the official max rpm. 6000! Right then. To the shops for a tach gauge. Thanks man! Dirk

Holy Crap! Thats the most insane thing i've ever seen! Quite possibly the most beautiful too. The chasis is amazing but the body work is nothing short of a miracle. Thanks for sharing. Dirk.

Bearing this in mind, I am surprised I can turn my engine over by hand at all. I know that my compression is equal and it must be reletively good since I only rebuilt it 2 years ago but with a 10" wrench on the crank shaft I can turn it over with reletive ease. What do you suppose the percentage of leak would be for a factory stock EA71? Or any standard road going car for that matter.

Where do the leaks generally come from? Valves or piston rings?

Is this what I should look for? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=256542104 What the hell is this?! http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motors/Car-parts-accessories/Performance/Carburation-induction/auction-257127206.htm

Yes. Thats my gasket on the right. I think if I were to go down this route I would fill the holes with brass and re-drill the manifold. Before I do this I need convincing that it is a good idea. What are the pro's and con's? Things that I would like to do in the near future are: 1. Upgrade the carb. Possibly to an EA81 2. Build a free flow exhaust system 3. Remove some wieght from the flywheel 4. Port and polish the heads So why are these mods a good idea? And if they are, Why did Subaru not do them in the factory. They seem to be simple things but Subaru must have had very good reasons to do things the way they did. Cheers.

Yeah mate. Or you might get lucky at your local hardware store.

This sounds like good advice to me. Check the linkages are not sticking. Also check that the throttle is returning fully. Maybe the return spring is a little tired or the cable is too tight. If the choke is not fully opening when warm, this could be your 'hot start' problem. Is it an automatic choke?

Iv'e been looking under the car and I think that it would be good to connect the primary's to the x-pipe after the transmission. There is more room there so it would give me better ground clearance. Is there any reason why I can't do this? Is the length of the primary's important? Also, do the primary's have to be the same length? Cheers, Dirk.

Well I hope it is a good idea because it is done! And not a bad job either if I say so myself but is best you don't ask how I did it. Any way, the plate is removed, the barrel is now perfectly round and the shaft holes have been filled. Been out for a test drive and enigine is still running well. Have not been able to test high speed yet. Best of all my spark plugs finally have a little colour! Must be getting close to optimum performance. Things I learned on the way: 1. My throttle body is quite worn. Secondary shaft wear is nominal but the primary by comparison is quite sloppy (still no tools to accurately measure). Have liberally smeared liquid gasket around the shaft holes in hope that it may stem some air flow. 2. Cover the manifold intake AT ALL TIMES when the carb is off. I nearly lost a nut down there and was very lucky to fish it out. It makes me cringe thinking about it. 3. Do not over tighten manifold bolts! I snapped one when re-installing the carb. Not the end of the world, and luckily the remainder came out without a fight but its not always that easy and it certainly wasn't welcome at 2am this morning. I have a spare 10mm spanner that I may cut down a bit to stop me from doing this again. Speaking of which, I should also grind the jaw down a bit too. Access to these bolts is a royal pain in the wosname. 4. Go easy on the liquid gasket! when removing the throttle body I noticed the vacum port was partially obstructed with some. Less is more. 5. Take your time, be clean and methodical.

Been in the garage butchering a donor carb. zzz Have removed the wieghted plate and shaft and have tried to reshape the lower part of the barrel so that it is round. Does this look like a good idea? I'm sure I can make a smarter job of the real thing if it is a good idea. And yes I will plug the holes.

I would like to furnish myself with some tools for testing various parts of an engine. Top of my list is a vacum gauge and a compression gauge. Other tools include accurate measuring tools (dial calipers and the like). Troble is I can't justify spending a lot of money (any money really) on what is just a hobby to me. I'm not going to use these tools every day so they don't have to be bulit proof or last forever but I get really hacked off when cheap tools don't even do the job they are supposed to. The last cheap tool I bought was a Ryobi table saw. I won't bore you with the details but it is a heap of "you know what" and a couple of day later I bought myself a Makita instead (about a thousand dollars more expensive). The Ryobi is now used as a stand for my thicknesser. Anyway, the point is: Is the auto industry the same. Will I get crap results from a cheaper tool? Are there any cheap reliable brands you can recommend? Cheers. Dirk.

Hello Doug and Dr Dlex. I have the Haynes manual but I can't make sense of the carb specs because the serial numbers do not match either of the 3 carbs I have. This is actually what got me started on this thread. Also I can't understand how there could be so many stock variations of a carb for the same engine.....? I have discovered a limitation with the valve linkages. If I deduce the opening time of the secondary plate it will not open it fully at full throttle and conversely, if I try to advance the opening time too much it rotaes the seconadry plate beyond vertical while the primary does not open fully. Therefore I have set it so that the plates are fully open at full throttle. There is a counter weighted plate on the secondary barrel. Looking at it, it is quite a bulky and restrictive looking part (as shown below). I guess it is there for a reason but I wonder what would happen if I were too remove it? The valve body I am using on the car is the better of the three that I have but there is no doubt that it is worn. Unfortuanately I do not own any instrument capable of measuring the wear on the shafts. By feel I would say that it is within acceptable limits and I did grease up the shafts when rebuilding. Hopefully this will reduce any leakage. Edit, I missed the part about pouring fuel into the barrels. Ill give it a go as soon as. Cheers.

Entertaining stuff and yet the man talks a lot of sense. http://www.youtube.com/user/bobbyllew?gl=NZ&hl=en-GB#p/u/0/8AQAjyY6hMc Here are some earlier ones: http://www.youtube.com/user/bobbyllew?gl=NZ&hl=en-GB#p/u/14/bJW5dVF_ss8 http://www.youtube.com/user/bobbyllew?gl=NZ&hl=en-GB#p/u/18/LPi8EhT_fYA Enjoy and discuss Dirk.

I totally understand that man. But it doesn't cost anything to simply check things over. Find yourself a haynes manual or chiltons or what ever and start checking the obvious. plus if its only a plug or a lead failing you could be back on the road for less than 20 bucks. The way I see it is if its already running on 3 cylinders, there can't be much wrong with it. Your gonna be up to your eyeballs in far bigger mysteries when you do the ej swap so you may as well get familiar with the basics now.

Hey Doug, My secondary is mechanicaly linked to my primary. I just have to bend the bar to adjust it. I haven't really fiddled with this beyond checking that it is set at manual specs. Would I prefer it to open earlier or later? I had another look at my spare power valves. One says 40 and the other 45. I suppose it could mean 4.5 but I deffinately do not see a point on either. A vacum gauge and a cylinder pressure tester are on my wish list but they seem to vary some what in cost. Can't really afford expensive ones but I can't stand buying cheap stuff that doesn't work properly in the first place. I think for the time being I will have to continue the trial by error method. What I plan to do next is run the engine at various conditions and monitor the results via the spark plugs. I start tomorrow by letting it idle on the driveway for a bit. By the way, did you see my post about the idle jets? What do you think? And no, the secondary idle is not adjustable. Cheers Dirk

Dude. Firstly make ur mind up on what to do. If you do decide to fix the ea your self thats great. First thing to do is check the plug and lead from the cylinder thats not firing. The easiest way to do this without any special equipment is to try swapping leads or plugs around untill you pin down the supect part. There are a lot of really cool and knowledgable people on this site who will help get you back on the road but you are gonna have to meet them half way. This means getting pro-active about the situation. Do some home work on what you are looking at. Google a few basic parts and get a basic understanding of you are looking at. Start testing all the basic functions of the engine and then come back here with the details of what you are seeing Good luck.

Hey Turbone! Your steering wheel is on the WRONG side! I'd get that looked at if I were you. Love the gauge setup!

Just got back from a wee drive and I'm stoked at how the engine is performing. My tweaked power valve has given heaps more power to the primary circuit. The throttle is smooth and responsive and when I open up both barrels it just keeps on giving. I'm not saying that I've turned it into a race machine, it just feels like the engine has bigger balls now. Oddly enough the whole engine sounds smoother now. The bigger idle jet has helped with smooth idling and also I don't have to give it as much choke as before and for less time. Amazingly my spark plugs are squeeky clean still so I guess all the fuel is being used. The only question now is what have I done to the fuel economy. I think I may be pleasantly surprised though because I have more power with the primary circuit. I may not have my foot on the floor as much as before. Time will tell.

Nice one! Generally the length of the correct size spanner should torque things up about right depending on how big your bicepts are.

If something is sticking I wonder if I could be the vacum advance diaphram? If this were to stick a little it would be responsable for rough running and idle issues. Take off the distibutor cap and have a look at the linkage. Could be sticky or maybe worn. Just another thought, Check to see if the throttle linkage is returning fully. Maybe the return spring is a little tired. That would also mess with your idle.

I have far too much time on my hands! Any way I was thinking about the idle circuit. The idle mixture screw controls the quantity of fuel delivery at idle. So in theory it doesn't actually need a jet? Is it just a convenient regulator that is fine tuned by the screw? Also I still can't figure out why I would need and Idle jet for the secondary barrel. Its a wierd looking circuit. Looks like the fuel exits from the very top of the carb above the main body.

Awsome! Thank you. One more question: Is it worth me doing this will I'm still using the Hitachi carb?

What is the purpose of the Air bleed jets and what happens if I change those sizes?

Update. Current setup is as follows. #60 idle jet #98 primary main jet #147 Secondary main jet #45 Power valve Have set idle mixture to best running. Throttle screw has half a turn on it to achieve correct idle rpm (a little under 900) Engine idles sweetly. No hunting. General throttle responce is smooth through all the range. Power curve is diffinately more towards the top of the rpm but I feel I still have plenty of torque at the bottom end. She will happily pull a well loaded small trailler about. I'm actually very happy with the setup as it is but in the interest of science and generally mucking about I have drilled out a number 45 power valve and installed it. The smallest drill bit I have is 1mm which is massive compared to the orgional hole. Will let you know soon what happens. Cheers. Dirk.