Dirk

Maybe check if there is enough slack in throttle cable. Adjusting timing will affect idle. I you are satisified that timing is correct then maybe just need to play with idle screw on front of carb. (one on the left) Dirk.

my advice is: Fix HG first. Then work on carb and other parts. If you do too many things at once then you will be chasing problems you don't know where they come from. One thing at a time.

Firing order. 1 3 2 4 Just in case. Dirk.

Cams? Did you say EA81? Deffinately check valve clearances also consider that a lean or rich fuel mixture could be masked by altering the ignition timing. Maybe check over the carb possibly clogged jet or air leak. I feel for you man. I hate chasing problems that make no sense.

Ooops. This doesn't help you at all. If you want to drop in an EA81 you will have to change transmission. space issues still apply.

The short answer is no. The long answer ........ Bellhousing mounts vary from 71 to 81 but there are some later model 71s which have side starter bellhousings. If you can track one of these down then you could be in luck. Or elese you can change the tranmision which is no big drama. You may have an additional problem though. Space around the steering columm is limited. (depending on what year the car is) On my 1979 EA71 there is not enough room to accomodate the EA81. I tried it once but to make it fit I had to leave out a bellhousing bolt on the steering column side. Even then it still rubbed against the steering column and the lack of bolt made the clutch slip on hard acceleration Cheers Dirk

Maybe just need to clean jets again. Or if you are feeling lazy/lucky compressed air down any/all orifice.

Symptoms vary. Your situation is quite common for HG failure.

Heads are deiffinately coming off at this stage. When you take them off look for signs of leaking head gasket. If there are no obvious signs of gasket failure then you would do well to have the heads checked. Dirk.

Holy ************! Check this vid out! This guy cracks me up. Great tunes too!

When the engine is cool, start her up and remove radiator cap and run till warm. If coolant spits out then HGs are toast. Check out this vid.

I beg to differ. Hitachi 28/32 converted to mechanical secondary. No Vac lines. Works beautifully. I haven't touched it since installing!

This is the kind fo thing you might expect.

Cool. Thanks for replies and further info. Dirk

I'm almost convinced that I have seen mention of this before but can't seem to find it. Anyway, Can you use a solid lifter setup on a block that was origionally designed for hydraulic lifters? Reason for asking: I want to use solid lifters on a hot cam. I have two blocks (one solid lifter, one hydraulic). The block that looks in best shape is the hydraulic one. The lifter passages are different. Hydraulic block has sleaveless passages with large oil galleries Solid block has sleaved passages with smaller oil galleries. Cheers Dirk.

Cheers!

What is HLA? Also why is it called a Mickey mouse seal? Just curious. Cheers Dirk

Do all the correct flaps work when moving circulation lever? Maybe something has fallen off. Good move on the new pipes. Will stop you having to grovel under the footwell at a later date. Dirk.

Sorry, can't help you with that one. Maybe for air-con? Does it move when you switch the toggle to cold?

Maybe a different model. Not sure. Yeah, if you can get a new valve that would be best. Leaky valves are a pain.

Hey. I think I can help you with this one. Yes the solder is broken on the resistor. Neededs to be fixed so that your fan switch will work on all speeds. The heater body on the left is how mine looks. Motor body on the outside. The water valve can be dissmantled. If you are lucky you can just clean it up and put it back together again. There are some small o-rings inside that may need replacing. Maybe you can get these from a hardware store or automotive store. Cheers Dirk. P.S. Might be a good idea to dissmantle to heater body to get to the heater core. When I did this I found that most of the heater core was caked in years of dirt/fluff and other debris. Having cleaned it up the heater now works better and doesn't smell any more.

Can you verify that the valve ports are smaller?

I have a set of these. Valves are big I also have a set of JDM 1600 heads which have the smaller combustion chambers but again the valves are big.

Combustion chambers look smaller too. Higher compression? Maybe from a 1300 or 1400? Kostamojen may know. Dirk

I got really tired of messing around with the same issue. The simple fix to this is adjust to toe OUT. I am unssure as to wether is stock or not. I could never figure out what the manual was trying to tell me. Toe out will sort out the tire wear problem but you may end up with a car that drives a bit sketchy on the straight. Good round corners though! In the end I lengthend my control arms. I now have zero camber and the car drives and handles very well indeed. Probably not good to reccomend this unless you have the mod certified. As you pointed out, lowering the car would work too. Cut springs? or new struts. There is no room on my 79 dl to move the top of the struts inwards. Is there any room in your towers? One more thought. If the back of the car is lower than factory spec (saggy old springs) that with also affect the front geometry. Also the orientation of the strut tops is reversable. not sure if this would help. Regards Dirk