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Danny89

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Everything posted by Danny89

  1. So, I found out that EU Spec 4th Gen OBK's and Foresters are equipped with the infamous dual range manual trans when behind the N/A 2.5. It is not an option in the US Spec car as the lever deletes a cup holder. From what I can tell, and from my experience with old School Ru's, upgrading our 4th Gen Obks with low range should be a fairly simple exercise. I'm assuming the cases are of shared cast between the EU and US Spec cars and that to make the US Spec trans D/R, swapping the input shaft, installing the planetary reduction carrier and fork, drilling or removing the plug for the fork shaft through the case, hanging the linkage and replacing the interior trim would be all that it would take. I realize that this is a 1%'er project (meaning 1% of us will actually do this) but I'm having a problem with verifying the case construction and parts list and cost. I've asked SOA, but you can guess how that went.... I did contact a dealer in the UK, but aside from the miserable exchange rate, they too we're less than helpful. So, perhaps Australia. I found a site in AUS that sells LOWER ratio kits for cars already equipped with the D/R to the tune of $1500.00 AUS not including the planetary, fork, linkage or trim.... So, there's that. I tried salvage yards across the EU, but there just isn't anything listed for even a whole trans... So, I'm here. Any ideas fellas? I see there was some discussion concerning this awhile back, but that was about it. Any word on the street? and yes, I need the Dual Range. Some of you know what I mean. DB.
  2. Well, after 221,000 the rear pinion seal is beginning to fail. I have a seal and need to know the rear pinion nut torque spec for the flange. help thanks, Danny.
  3. I’ve read some of the posts concerning sputtering EA82T’s and I too have a similar issue. I haven’t looked into the tank but I’m sure there is some rust - 1989 Wag w/213000mi. I keep filters, grounds, and sensor connections clean and I still have an intermittent surge problem. I have changed the ECU coolant temp sensor. It will build boost when sputtering. Only sputters when just off the lower cold mark when accelerating, say from a stoplight. If it’s up to operating temp it fine, idles fine. I’ll come off the stoplight releasing the clutch, engage the clutch, and at 1500-2000 rpm in first it will sometimes sputter- feel like it goes rich. I’ll stay in the gas pedal and it will come out of it like –POW- all that loaded up fuel takes off and out you go. While sputtering if I clutch and race the engine it will clear up sometimes. New ignition components, I did have to replace the O2 prematurely as it fouled out I’ve been getting 22 mpg. I’ve cleaned the MAF and tested the TPS ok. My ECU green diode flashes one continuous dash, dash, dash, dash. I do allot of Short City driving with a monthly 4-hour trip. The freeway trip does seem to help by perhaps cleaning the O2?
  4. Per Gary's great research on intake temps from the other day, along with some info from Skip, I could use a material other than metal for brtween the I/C and intake plentum? I am in the process of installing a starion I/C in the 89 wag and am having some enginering problems with plumbing. Could I use a flexible coolant hose for the cooled air between the I/C and T.B.? Or some thing else of equal ease? Ideas? Danny.
  5. Yea this is bad. This has been going on for 5-6 oil changes now. I thought perhaps the debris left in my drainpan came from the lawn mower, but I don't think so since I've cut open the oil filter and found minute amounts of this glitter. Napa gold filter, GTX 10-30/10-40, 5/30 GTX Blend for winter, and 210,000mi 1989 EA82T. I haven't noticed any engine noise or excessive fuel/oil consumption problems. I had some collasped lifters and would use (I forgot the name, pint yellow bottle, oil detergent) worked well, would make the hammering lifters go away. Well I replaced the bad lifters 2 oil changes ago and perhaps this is not bearing material. The cams and followers looked really good, but the interior of the block has a dark bronze color from 210,000 mi of Castrol. Could the debris be "normal" or am i screwed in "X" amount of miles?
  6. I need a SOA part # for the two shoe starter contact kit. I know it exists but it escapes me at the moment. A little help please. Nippon starter 85-94 Loyale and/or 90-95 2.2/2.5 thanks. Danny
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