Fuzpile

This is a good idea yet these days could be a problem. The regime is coagulating, corresponding every type of # and their type of "job creation" is to track and record all this. Computers link this up with other data. Until something changes I would be vague about precise numbers. If just a regular person has a subscription to Alldata or other sevices they can track a vehicle between owners and locations. Couple that with Motor vehicle files and medical records and we are into a scary scenario. We are just on the brink of this now but some disturbing letters may arrive in the mail later. It was those jobs we payed for. To monitor us.

Last thing I want is to get into some match with you or anyone who has spent more sweat than me with these vehicles. Just my .02 and it's sorta over. I haven't been with and supported the newer members like you guys did. There were just fundamental things which i too have learned and wanted to share. It becomes "what works for ..is okay" Possibly a fresh look is okay also.

Is that a rubber type backing on that angle? If so it doesn't go near the header which I origionally thought. That vibration damper would suspend a bracket of hydraulic lines or something so they don't go thru a million vibrations.

The pulley key is a dealer item . Think they are about 3.80$ ea. They are very small and actually only a locater. The compression against the two clean flat surfaces (inside pulley and face of crank sprocket) are the adhesion.

The "flycutter" in this case is a multicutter type of insert to a vertical mill. Since you know what "tram" is you know where I'm going about removal of surface. I just thought that abrasives get lodged in the aluminum. Since the person didn't take down the head to bare i didn't think the Blanchard process ever happened.

Grinding. I was on another thread and they mention "grinding" these aluminum heads. Well actually you grind iron heads. What they use is called a "flycutter". It is large maybe 6-8" . The setup is the main thing. It is supposed to take off metal at one side and not the trailing side. It really requires a lot of care to get everything correct and level. Then "what" is level? On some cars the heads have to be torqued down to the table to represent the profile they will present to the gasket after they are torqued. That is why a shop that Really knows about these things is THE place.

Well i don't know all about that with aluminum but I'm glad our friend found something and is on his way to success. I'm thinking he woulda taken the cam out anyway because he just had to Know why it was binding. It was helpful I'm sure, all these fine folks here. What was really cool is that he took this real time info and applied it within an evening. Total salutes.

This is one of those deals where a person gets cranky . I'm cranky at 59. The threads also mention the refacing or trueing the surfaces that are mates to the pulley and crank sprocket. Make them true so they can deliver . You may have been the author of that wisdom.

Jullian you have your way to an answer with 91's post. He knows this engine. Perhaps it doesn't bind with the buckets off and the torque correct as before. Priceless about a cap being effected . A Hi-spot Dykem or similar may help find that area and relieve it.

Ouchers. The possibilities are what you don't want to hear like bent cam. Sounds like an alignment issue and good you caught it. You only can reflect back on how hot the engine got before. The possibilty a valve is slightly bent or seized disappears because it is something with that cam. Cap wrong way or mixed with another. That's just neophyte to these engines talking. If it is in the process, it would serve you to put the cam "between centers". That can be a few minutes on a lathe or inspection device. There are machined divots on both ends which are suspended-(sorry if you know all this) A dial micrometer can be placed across each cam bearing landing to see they don't vary.

That is just messed up!! It is good to post for the other reason. Reading the members here I'm seeing a level so far above that example. Folks doing work out on their driveway without lifts still want to get everything right. If they have a question they ask it and get expert advice. The possibility of an abrasive grinder used on a block that isn't bare means that everything is compromised.

Something to add; Timing covers. Mine were fairly messed up with most the bottom bolts' having lost the integral nuts of the cover. I made up some threaded clip things which act as a clamp at those lips. Started sealing the bottom with silicone but not too much. That is, I don't want water piling in there but Do want to know if a seal is leaking before the belt is contaminated. Some just run without covers. No way. it is too easy to split the central main cover so that belt etc can be inspected without removal of Mr. pulley.

Replying to the "wat" remark. Thinking he misspelled wtf until I see it's our couz in NZ . Means i'm an rump roast some kinda way. I stand behind both allegations. A sealed and lubed BB will wear to minimal amounts until one knows that it is too far. A dry bearing already has the marks of forthcoming disaster written on its balls.

I was doing this Isuzu 2 1/2 ton truck and all the everything was rotted out underneath. The fittings on the lines were so bad i could only make a few flares. I had to find a source and it did exist but it didn't excactly say Subaru. The parts stores have a rack of these things in sizes from about 1 1/2' in 6" increments. There are abaout 4 metric Asian types. You need take an old fitting and measure the threads against and find that type. The reason is that everybody calling and asking a counter person to go thru all this leaves the whole collection messed up. It is best to have the trust to go back there and look carefully( and maybe even put some back where they belong).

There were many problems as the hydraulic fluid for the sphere membranes leveling/suspension system was unlike that for the brake system until it wasn't.. stuff changes. Also there were climatic changes which doomed the operation of myriad switches at six points to work correctly. It was sort of a fiasco depending upon how you look at it. I'm not even going there with the suspension automatically adjusting around curves at hi speed and all those awards and stuff because I'm talking about much simpler things. I do notice that the coils on an outback spring are the same number as a legacy. They just stretched them. I'm going somewhere but gotta think about it.

I was just thinking about the hydrapnuematic variations of the past. it would be cool to flip a switch and gain 5" . Because you cut in a compressor which normally doesn't drag the engine. Then level it down. In memory which is faint, it was really a shock tower comprised of nitrogen on one side and hydraulic fluid on the other coupled to torsion suspension. It required a hyd pump and all that.

In highway handling and nipping around the SUVs if you can see over them, then regular stance is fine. There are those times to walk over things with our AWD. I just find it interesting that the air adj suspension was offered yet not much is said about it here. It wouldn't have to be active all the time.

Flaring tools are varied and require some practice on the type tool used. The "double flare" required uses a certain die and inner support.

Somebody else can lead you for all I can say now is the Haynes manual # 89100 has some pretty good electrical diagrams. I have seen some f links in the relay fuse comp under the hood but can't make sense of anything right now. Looks like much of this area goes right into the ECU. let's hope they didn't screw that. You're going to need some manual to help trace things.

Dang! now I have to explain that. I don't mean any ground like from an AC appliance. That ground is foreign. I mean the car ground or that part inside the unit(usually B-) .

I suppose it's old news but you ground yourself or the Q tip to a ground around any these things with chips. Static can reach a level to wipe some redundant cells out of the working path. I come from a day when esd mats and wrist straps and all that were just coming on the scene. Let's not forget a relatively isolated person sliding across a carpet in low humidity can generate quite a charge into one leg of an expensive circuit.

Man you missed the bullet! I was doing my timing belt stuff and checking idlers when a neighbor came by. One flat one had the slightest of play and the toothed one had no detectible play. I said I'm replacing the toothed one(and did 42$) He said "why that one" ('91 would know) Hear that? Hear the difference?Feel the difference? Sprocket baby is dry and it's a matter of time.

Were it Avita perchance? There are ways if you go into the sites where you can "reset" and reestablish communication with aftermarket remotes. When I got my '97 LW nothing worked except 3 doors. After cleaning the deal up inside and new battery and fixing the hatch lock it's great. Also you find other things like remote start,sometimes.

Those POS's had a hate on for you or were so stupid they thought they were doing a favor by spicing those wires. Our earlier is right in that the fuzeable link may have burnt before it damaged the switch contacts. Man I thought i had a bad day. good luck friend.- hey did they steal your manual too? Good wiring diagrams there.

Responding is hopeless for me. I get into why the sprocket needs to be removed 1st, welding the crank with a machinable rod and before it goes thru my old cp is choked with pics and no longer logged in. :-\