Fuzpile

Yeh ouchers. Yours a bit more a problem than mine was. It really got into your crank a lot.The pulley/ h/b is not any further key-gored than mine (typical 90*) but I see a ridge in the bore which says the whole thing would have to be filled and remachined. Need another pulley unless you go the weld and forget route.

I can't do this John. I have already posted I made a tool. It is 27 1/2" long and weight 5lbs. It engages the 4 holes in the inner part of the pulley. It only requires anyone who uses it to clear those holes ( by drill bit whatever) So the 4 steel pins engage into. Into where the breaker with the stress on it holds it in. I want you to take responsibility once I send it to you that you send it to another that needs it when you are done. I put up the origional postage then we may or may not have a break in the chain.

I could be out of line here but your clues drive me. That the gasket was" gone" in that spot may have caused another to overtighten that area and slightly bent the ear or casting to stop the same leak. You can't bend it back. You can check when it's apart with a straightedge or plate and file off the deformity if you find it.

To describe the reasoning is that often the a/c coils are left in place so there is limited access. The strap wrench idea may work but these are harmonic balancers also. there was evidence of a pin driven between the inner and outer of mine to make that happen without destroying that membrane. Any flexibilty reduces torque or torque settings. There are many designs but the holes were there in the inner pulley section. It required measuring the distance of the pins and that to a steel ring which was just short enough that a short socket with breaker/cheater went right into it. The idea is that the pin ring affair would like to spring out except the breaker is right against it to hold it in. Couple that to the pins being welded onto a ring that has a bar which is made to lay across the support points,underhood. Then its held in place while you work the breaker. Hey whatever.

When I got my L with ej22 with leaking waterpump it was a learning experience. It was leaking real good in my early trips and without that fan(the only one working then) it woulda been toasted. No big deal nor making tools isn't a big deal. The short of this is I do have these tools to lend out but I need contact with someone at this board as to how it gets coordinated, if it does.

Instead of giving a biga$$ diatribe here look for a new topic above called crank pulley tool.

Looks like Fairtax was cut off. happens. He's very logical and what he possibly meant to complete was that there are Reasons why that belt remained off. That is you must look closely at all the hoses and connections dealing with the Ac. Look for cracks and look for oil. If a bearing went out in the compressor or it lost its charge then it is natural to not have that belt spinning. So somebody who knows can check the system pressure and then get back to here.

My question is How to coordinate to loan for maximum assist? More specific; I like many, have made tools in order to do a job I may not revisit for years. Because I did the job correct and the tool worked well enough. I know that "making the right tool" often takes as long as the job. So is there any thought to how tools would be sent to say someone who really just wants to get the job done and send them off to somebody else? I'm talking about a long tool which fits nicely inside the eng compartment across the unistructure to hold the crank pulley center. Another more crude, a yoke type spanner to grip and hold the timing sprocket spokes.

I followed your post back into the other board because it was interesting seeing similar situations. Yes the plugs really need be out. I wasn't doing a 4-cam but it was confusing at times, those different marks. The other engines I was used to, TDC was paramount yet these marks didn't agree with that. I had a soft alum rod stuck in #1 as a gage,and when it wasn't getting pinched under a valve I began to see they were telling you to align like -hey forget what you know, this is Subaru land-. The reason being that the valve springs force the cams to different positions as soon as tension is relieved. So they tell you another place to align everything to the belt. In the end,if correct hand rotation should show all the TDC marks line up but the belt marks are irrelevant.

Just a sideline; don't know if it's important. The Haynes says to make sure the "ground wire" to the radiator is good. My '97 doesn't have one and doesn't need one for fans. That spurred me to check with a DVM anyway and there was not a ground on it, in the normal sense. What I saw was more measuring thru a semiconducter where there was less resistance one way than another. That leads me to think there is another sensor in the cooling units. Stuff works fine so i didn't persue it.

There are 4 dedicated relays and basic fuses to check or swap and things can become more complicated. The ecm receives its heat signal. It will run whatever fan is working. Mine ran this way a while before I got it. Good machines.

I must post quick or get cut off. My car worked the same but in this weather both fans are useful. I had checked the operation of the dormant/lside fan and it worked fine . The center terminal is ground. Refer to earliest tips and save Ur $. These are good fans. Because of what I read in manual I checked the connectors to the fans for color code against the wire diag. That was good. There was only an interruption in the ground path to main fan.

Hi. I have a '97 Legacy L with the same setup. It's somewhat misleading, the main and "sub" fan. Subaru did this so the sub/ac fan will double as the main one. The fact that the pgr,rside/sub fan comes on when hot eleiminates a lot of things.

"unitegral-(sp)" they are. Well, Fuji Heavy Industries built in USA-who'da thunk. What I meant by that is unibodied, integrated and integrity. It forms a strong vehicle. I was in a vacuum for years with my trucks. This is new.

Yes Twitch. I know of sites where a person just drops in and expects an entire treatise of a subject covered over and over. Good way to burn out a mentor. I did a lot of reading here before buying but will have a question or two in the future. I was suprised also how "unitegral-(sp)" they are. Well, Fuji Heavy Industries built in USA-who'da thunk.

Thanks for the invite Olenick. Indeed a great and different car. I like this site and how it's constructed and the way folks converse. There is a jump yet not too big. All best to you also.

I have been reading here for months and helped by many of you. i had never owned a subie before. The links to where I could make sense out of the timing situation were extreme valuable. So i purchased mine off craig's and drove it around and it was good. It was advertised as a 2.5 but i didn't know then. It turned out it was leaking coolant bad thru the waterpump when I got it home. I replaced that one with a good quality one from info here, along with a couple idlers and belt. redid a few things. It had remote locks-which didn't work and remote start i didn't know. I've fixed a few things but i'm really impressed with this machine and have put some good miles on it since then. The 2.2 has great compression and smooth as can be.

Welcome also from me,a lurker and newtime Subaru owner. These folks are great.