simbey1982

you mean squirt a bit of fuel in the cylinder not the intake??

you have that link?? Yes 2.2s are SOHC...i shudder at the thought of the subaru DOHC

Ughh...im not sure what i could be doing wrong....i followed a manual just like you provided to install the timing belt...lined up marks on the sprokets with the marks on the timing cover... then installed the belt in the correct rotational direction with the lines on the belt aligned with marks on the sproket....what am i doing wrong???

bump

i checked the cam sprockets which were marked L and R. I put the cam sprokets and the crank sprocket at 90 degrees then aligned the marks on the timing belt with those....how would it have come out of timing???

Alright so i have just finished the following on my 92 Legacy Turbo 1. Headgasket Job with pressure tested and resurfaced (.004) heads 2. Replaced Timing belt Engine was removed from the vehicle and stripped down to shortblock. Engine then was put back together to longblock then put back in car. Connections were checked and re checked. Everything was hooked up all fluids are in. I turn the key and it just turns over. I figured it needed to pressurise fuel system. I keep turning it over....no firing. recheck sensor connections...take off fuel feed and fuel spurts everywhere...take a plug wire and stick a screwdriver in it and rest it near a ground point, strong spark...Then i tore it half way apart and re did the timing...same thing.. It just turns over with no firing...while turning over i hear an AIR thumping sound coming out of the throttle body "thwump, thwump, thwump" in sync with engine turning over. SO....questions are 1. Can i try to read the ECU codes and get something out if it without a successful startup? 2. THe knock sensor female end broke when removing the engine...i replaced it with crimp ends and soldered them...would that do anything like this? 3. WHAT THE HECK IS CAUSING THIS???!!!!! Thanks

looking at replacing the friction disk in my 2.2l turbo with pull type clutch. Is the friction disc on those the same as the push type?? what about a newer WRX friction disk? Nobody sells just the friction disk and for a kit when you add the word turbo, the price doubles so if the friction disk was the same i could buy a cheaper kit....they look the same to me.... Thanx

Ill replace those gaskets too...any more info on the end play??? Normal? something to be worried about?

Hey all i have the EJ22T torn apart and the heads are off. They are being taken to get resurfaced and leak tested. I got the engine out and everything off. I have a couple of questions 1. The flywheel has about 1/8" of play which translates to the main pulley in front. In other words when i push and pull on the flywheel i have 1/8" of play in my shaft....is that a main bearing going and if so is it that much more difficult to get to since im already at the shortblock stage? 2. My headgaskets did not look blown....is it even possible that the oil and coolant are mixing in the turbocharger somehow?? is there anywhere else they cross paths? PS i did not have tell tale headgasket signs...no overheating etc just lots of oil in the coolant.... Cory

Thanks will do

Well im going for it Headgaskets Resurface Heads/Pressure Test New Heater hoses Timing Belt Water Pump Thermostat Things ive been putting off but am now going to do Struts Front Ball Joints Removing idiot things put on before i got it High flow fuel pump fuel cut defender = sucky gas mileage and out of control boost And things afterward Coolant system flush Alignment What does it cost? about $1000 and 40hours of my time...=0) Itll be a long week, Thanks for all the help

Ive set up to do a head gasket job and a resurfacing/leakdown test. Anything else i should do while im in there?

Soon as i get the replacement hose and the coolant filled back up i will check for bubbles. this is the coolant resivor in the picture not the oil...there is no sludge in the oil filler. The problem hose was one of feed/returns to the heater core...when i took it off, sludge poured out of the nipple on the firewall. seems like a lot of sludge.... The intake system was modified due to a wrx intercooler being put on. The trubo is both oil and water cooled from what i can tell, has feed/returns for both oil and coolant. Let me know Cory

I had a coolant hose burst right under my turbo so i flushed the entire system with water then filled it back up with a premium mix...that was about 2 months ago and now its full of sludge again...i just had another coolant hose burst...its killing my hoses post haste....I was hoping beyond hope that this isnt a head gasket....

My Car 1992 Legacy Turbo, engine has 130,000 miles Manual Tranny the guy i bought it from put a WRX coolant system in it (dont know why) So for the past 2 years...pretty much since i have owned the car, i have sludge in the coolant see pictures, i dont notice any coolant in the oil and the coolant level stays pretty constant.... I did a coolant system flush about 2 mo's ago thinking that would clean it out but the sludge is right back. The sludge is oily and doesnt mix with the coolant. What the heck is the problem?? Thanks

i would say no, but i guess anything is possible at this point, any way to verify those? Also, arent the marks on the belt off unless it goes around x number of revolutions? or should the belt marks line up every time the sprocket and Camshaft gears are strait up? or should i just verify that all the sprocket gears are strait up?? I need some specifics on this Thanks a million to everyone

Hey guys, didnt mean to sound like i dont think it is the timing. Cuz its the only thing i can wrap my brain around that makes sense. And just because i think i installed it correctly, doesnt mean i did =0) To answer some questions. Originally i had the wrong ECU but purchased the correct one later. As for the swap, it is a COMPLETE swap. I have an ECU, Wiring and a complete motor that i have spliced in. I too thought it was a wiring issue or other, but i have verified that the injectors are pulsing, and that the correct signal is getting to the coil. Then only thing i can possibly think of is that the timing is off...but when i redid the timing and it still didnt work, i was going nuts! The cough did not sound like a fire at all...it sounded just like a cough like it was aspirating If the consensus is timing i am all for looking at it again. I do have a question though, whats the best way to check it, short of taking the belt off and re installing it? Thanks again for all of your help

This is a motor i picked up for a transplant into my impreza after my 2.2 died. (along with wiring, and ecu) It was taken off of a 1999 forester, It came with a timing belt that i didnt make sure was lined up. When i would try to start it with the old timing belt...it would crank funny and "COUGH" every 4 or 5 cranks. Decided that timing belt could be an issue so i replaced it and installed CORRECTLY When i try to start with the new timing belt...the crank sounds more normal and the "COUGH" has dissapearred. (which prompted me to look for valve damage) My only measurable symptom at this time is that i have no spark on half of the coil and weak spark on the other half (I have tested the coil and even tested it with a new coil, also i have tested new Crank Angle, and Cam position sensors. So i guess my question is could it have jumped teeth? the tensioner looked to be working fine when i took it out..?? how would i tell without just taking the whole thing off again? Thanks for the help

Ok i will retest under those circumstances. As for timing belt, i replaced it a month ago (this is an ongoing project) as i thought the timing was off. Timing belt was correctly reinstalled and ready to go. It MUST have been off before because when i replaced it the cranking sounded way diffrent and the car stopped "Coughing" when cranking. So i wanted to check and see if valves might have been bent. The reason it wont start is a secondary electrical issue that is making half the ignition coil not spark and the other half spark weakly. Cory

Yeah my options are limited because i cant start the engine, so throttle wide open and warm engine are not possible....leak down test?? how would i do this?

Hey all, I just ran a compression test on a 2.5l SOHC Phase II engine. Engine was cold. I tested each cylinder cranking 10 seconds on each (engine doesnt start). Here are my results Cyl 1 100psi Cyl 2 80psi Cyl 3 70psi Cyl 4 70psi Tested in order of 2,4,1,3 Im not sure what these results are telling me about my valves, can anyone help? Thanks Cory

It was the starter. Thanks again

yeah i am gonna try that same trick with the multimeter. I did measure just the switch itself with an ohmmeter and it seemed to be working fine...but i will check it with the signal wire and then get a new starter Thanks for your help guys

Hello all. I need some help surprise surprise Here are the symptoms. Lets start from the battery being disconnected. I connect the battery and everything looks normal. I turn the key to the start position and the car starts...but it does not stop starting. Even when i turn the key off and take it out it continues to try and start until i disconnect the battery....It does this every time without fail. Also before this was happening i was having intermittent issues with the car not starting at all I would turn the key and it would click,....click....click 5 or 6 times and then start normally. When it was having the clicky issue i made sure the ground strap was good and secure, and tried another starter. I just got finished replacing the starter interlock relay...and the relay the alarm has in the starting system and the symptoms have not changed. My best guess is the ignition switch? Or maybe the starter is getting stuck on...What would you all guess? And if i replace the ignition switch do i need to have a new key? Thanks all

thanks