daredevil1166

Is that to say the driveshaft from an 03 Outback was a good fit without modification? I will try to get pictures soon.

Really cool. A couple of questions so I can understand better. Why use the AWD center diff? Is it not possible to keep the PT transfer case? Why the RX input and and output shafts? Could you not use the GL ones? What was the original ratio of the RX trans?

My thread..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=129421&highlight=dual+range+swap&page=1 The thread I got most of my info from..... http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=109402&highlight=waterwagon It would be nice if someone got all the info together, took better pictures, and did a better write up. Not sure about the manual/auto crossmember difference. But, they are easy to modify. Just drilling holes. One side of the EJ cross member is at a different angle so I made a wedge shaped spacer to get the angle closer. I'd be happy to take some better pictures for you. Just let me know what all you want pics of.

Possible I'm sure. Really not worth it. It really was easy to bolt the EA shifter on. Don't over think it. It's a relatively easy swap. There was very little modification necessary and most things worked themselves out with only a little thought on my part. If you're thinking of doing it and have the money, just go for it.

The shifters are bolted together just like in the original car. I just made a simple bracket to bolt them to the rear of the hole in the body. You can kinda see where it bolts in this picture. I've since repositioned the gear shifter and put the original plastics back on. Might as well throw in a few other pics while I'm at it. How I marked the flywheel. Used the pilot bearing to center the flywheels together then sprayed paint in the holes. Worked awesome. The D/R opened up. Clutch, pitch stopper and adapter plate. You can see the hole in the firewall where the hydro clutch master was. Last one is the driveline extension before I welded it together.

Got 4wd! Drive line is in and all is well. I turned a piece of 2.5" OD 3/16 wall tubing down to fit inside the front section tube. Made it a pretty tight fit, I had to heat the drive line to get the piece in. I figure that helped it stay straight and the tight fit will help it handle the torque. Very glad to have 4wd. Project is mostly done. Just need my custom shifter boot and I'm gonna call it finished.

Yes there is a thing there with the spline count and shaft size. I can't remember the measurements now but the correct one is Exedy 15-009. I used this one.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/LUK-15-009-New-Clutch-Set-/270921981388?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item3f14355dcc#ht_929wt_931 Parts Blvd is part of Performance Warehouse which is part of Baxter Auto Parts. They're so close to me that I got it the next day. To give credit where it's due, I didn't figure out the clutch stuff or find that kit, I found the info here. I have a few tips and pictures to post that would help people do this. I'll get them up when I can.

Yep. The EA D/R is about 2" shorter.

Well, it's in and driving. In FWD that is. I'll post some pictures of how it worked out when I can. It worked very well and went easier than I thought. The flywheel ground out nicely, the EJ pitch stopper and bracket bolted right up, and the bottom boot for the EJ shifter flipped upside-down and worked awesome on the EA shifters. Splitting the D/R went well too. Took about 2 hours to replace the stub shafts and reseal most of it. Here's where I run into trouble. The driveline. The cost of lengthening my front section is ridiculous. Apparently it's an odd tube size, u-joints aren't replaceable(by them at least), and the taper at each end causes problems. For anyone who's done this project, I'd like to know what exactly was done to your driveline to make it work. I'd rather not go to a one piece. My only idea so far is to cut the tube, have a pieceof tube machined down to fit the ID and weld it in. Then have it balanced of course.

I doubt I'll do a full write up. I'll put some info up. I got most of mine from here anyway so I don't have much to add. So far there isn't anything too complicated. It's just having the money to do it. I got some great deals and have done a lot myself so I'm not much into it but, I think you could easily put $1000 into doing this. ^^^^^ Cancel that. Got something figured out. Thanks though.

How do you do the flywheels? Surfaced or balanced already? I'll definitely take two stubs and maybe a drilled flywheel. Got a rusty one to exchange if it'll do me any good. I can come get them tomorrow(wednesday) evening if that's possible.

Thank you. Clears that up. Can you line out what years have what switches? In their original car are the Lo and Neutral switches used by the engine/ECU? What would happen if an 89 lost it's Neutral and Lo switches? Lo is just as an indicator right? What about neutral? Just so happens my brother has an 89 with a D/R and we're swapping engines anyway. My front diff with stub shafts has gone MIA from my family's place. So I may not split the trans. But, the front seal is puking. I see it has a cover that can be unbolted there. Can I get at that seal to change it without splitting the case? Or, anyone got a junk trans hanging around I can get the stub shafts from? Also could use a junk EJ flywheel.

Finally got a 96 pedal assembly. So that's solved. Pain to find though. What's better to seal the rear pieces after I split the D/R? Anaerobic sealant or the OEM gaskets? It seems to me that using a sealant will make the flanges closer together. I'd rather do that but could it be an issue for clearances? I have two D/R's. One doesn't have two switches that the other has. Those are neutral and 4wd right? So I'll have to use the one with a neutral switch so I don't get a CEL, correct? Hoping I can trade for another one with switches or add them so I have a spare. It has the spots. Gonna see if I can just drill/tap to add them.

Almost a year now. Curious what came of this.

I didn't think of that. Kills that idea. I'll keep loooking for a cable pedal assembly. Thanks.