[cannot undo the control arm. any advice?]

I guess I will not be able to reuse the ball joint.I'll pull the control arm off and wack the tar out of the old ball joint to get it off.

 

I also tried a puller on the axle tonight without any luck. I don't want to over tighten it in case the hub cracks from the stress. I'll let it soak overnight with tension on it, see if it yields by morning. If that won't work....

 

I'll pull it off and take it to a machine shop as johnceggleston had to do.

[cannot undo the control arm. any advice?]

Yeah this job is a bit of a nightmare. i'm not used to all this midwest rust. I just moved here from Arizona and the car I purchased here. We didn't have issues like this, even on my '73 international. Bolts would stick but rarely break off.

 

Just got done beaating on the axle again. FROZEN. I'll try a puller next.

 

I did buy a new ball joint. Maybe I can strip it out and dress the old one up. THat way I won't have to deal with the control arm issue. Any ideas about that?

 

THX

[cannot undo the control arm. any advice?]

Thanks for the info. From now I'll avoid that bolt like the plague. I was just following the factory lame procedure. I did get the ball joint out finally. THe pickle fork did work after the 100th wack with the sledge. As for the stuck bolt I reamed it out and have a new one with washer/nut ready to go in.

 

Now, the old cv axle does not want to budge and come out of the hub/spindle. I'm using a with hammer and punch. I don't want to wail on it too much so to damage the teeth. i'll buy a puller (pusher in this case)of some sort of apparatus tomorrow morning. Any ideas what tool would work best?

 

I'm still stuck with the mangled boot and ball joint stuck in the control arm. Maybe it would be best to remove the control arm and put it on the ground where I can be over the old ball joint and hammer it out. Any suggestions?

 

It's slowly progressing but there is a lot of corrosion on these original parts keeping things at a snails pace.

[cannot undo the control arm. any advice?]

95 legacy awd

 

I'm trying to replace the p-side cv axle. In doing so, I can't get the lower control arm off the ball joint. I tried removing the arm with the ball joint attached to by undoing the pinch bolt. The bolt head snapped, tried using an extractor and ended up drilling it out. Still could not remove the control arm. Now I've tried removing the c-arm from the ball joint itself and still no success even with a sledge hammer, heat, penetrating oil and a fork ball joint removing tool. Every thing is just plain seized and I'm getting frustrated. ANY WORDS OF WIDSOM??

[oil leak from timing belt cover]

Great information guys!

 

Some things to chew on for now. I agree that if you are going to have it apart might as well do the full spectrum of work and not worry about it later.

[oil leak from timing belt cover]

This car is overdue for a timing belt change. Since it is new to you and unknown do:

 

Water pump

cam seals

Main seal

Idler

Tensioner

Re-seal the oil pump

Timing Belt

Accessory drive belts

New T-stat (subaru part only)

 

Good. I'll go ahead and focus on these along with the seeping driver's side valve cover gasket.

I know the water pump and t-belt were done at 60k.

 

Here is something about the oil pump issue I found online. (If it's an issue at all)

 

Engine Oil Leak On

1995 Subaru 1.8 & 2.2L Engines

 

The AERA Technical Committee offers the following information concerning an engine oil leak on 1995 Subaru 1.8 & 2.2L engines. Leaking oil has been reported between the engine oil pump housing and the cylinder block sealing surfaces.

 

The cause of this leak has been traced back to an inadequate size oil pump return hole. The return hole should be .235 (6 mm) in diameter. It is permissible to enlarge the hole size to the correct dimensions by using an appropriate size drill bit and drilling.

 

Applying grease to the end of the drill before drilling will minimize the chips created. Using the tool, carefully enlarge the hole to .235 (6mm). Then, clean out the hole for any extra shavings that may be left behind. Upon completion of

this procedure, carefully reinstall the oil pump.

 

The AERA Technical Committee

 

 

All in all I think it will be a good car after taking care of some issues. I also have to replace an cv axle and fix the massive play in the shifter.

Thanks.

[oil leak from timing belt cover]

I just purchased a 1995 legacy wagon with 80k and in very good condition. The car has been very well maintained and is beautiful. I'm completely new to Subaru and am in a learning process.

 

I do have an oil leak dripping from the bottom of the timing belt cover. After looking around for info, it appears that 95 2.2 engines oil return 'hole' from the oil pump to the block I'm assuming, is too small and needs to be bored out to accommodate the flow of oil going back to the crank case.

 

Does anybody have experience with this?

 

Any tips on the procedure for repair, special tools to rent or buy???

 

While I have it apart should I replace the crank and cam seals as well? Any other preventative tips or repairs?

 

Thanks in advance!