4drbrat

you guys are definitely a lot of help. It sounds like fuel delivery is the place to start. My pump is definitely running well. It's the newest thing on the vehicle, I can hear it running, and I disconnected a fuel line to determine if it was clogged somewhere, and it had full flow. All wires on the IAC appear to be in great condition. I will have to trace them this weekend to make sure they didn't get pinched somewhere. I think i'll also have to hook up an LED to my check engine light wire on the computer to see if I'm getting any codes. My suspicion is that my injector isn't spraying except for the initial startup burst. But i don't know the conditions that cause the injector to spray - I assume it sprays more when the throttle is open. Does anybody know where i can find the expected ohm readings on the TPS at different levels of open? I'll be tinkering with it this weekend, and i'll update with my results. thanks again for the help.

Long time listener, first time caller here. i have an 89 GL wagon with an EA82 SPFI non-turbo. I can't figure out why I'm having some intermittent running problems with it, and I'm hoping you guys can help. When I can get it started, it fires right up and runs great. But that's only about a quarter of the time. the other 75% of the time, it'll crank over and try to run, but it won't idle and when i try to give it gas, it bogs down and dies. When i do get it going, it'll run fine until i shut it off. then there's a one in four chance it'll start again. Here's some additional background info on it; It is a 100% off road rig. By that, I don't just mean it has a roll cage - we're talking no dash/interior. All gauges are aftermarket and mechanical. The problem started while exploring some trails - it was less frequent at first. it has gotten progressively worse in the last 6 months. I read on here that a similar problem was solved by checking/drying/replacing the wires going to the injector. I check them, and there is no damage. They are dry, and continuity is good. My injector sprays great for it's initial burst when the ignition is turned on. Fuel lines have been checked. fuel is flowing freely. After checking the injector, the car fired right up, and i thought i found the problem. I shut it off, fired it up, no problems. Then i let it sit for five minutes, and it wouldn't start again. So i tried fidgeting/checking the injector wires again; still wouldn't start. So i tried cleaning/inspecting TPS; still wouldn't start. So i tried unplugging the IAC. after adjusting the throttle butterfly valve, it seemed to run... not great, but it ran. Waited ten minutes... and it wouldn't start. Any suggestions would really help me on this. Thanks in advance for the help!

you can also get haynes manual online from Autozone.com. they have a thing where you sign up and you can access digital copies for free for pretty much any vehicle they made a manual for. plus, it legit, so a bit less sketchy than a torrent.

the old oil pressure switch that I replaced had a 3/8 iso x 19 thread. i tried the 3/8 npt and all the other ones that came with the kit (i even tried some from another kit i had laying around). i work at oreilly's, so I had a lot of options available, but i couldn't find anything that would work but a plug. but I drilled and tapped it, and it really seems to be holding up. Now I just have to condense my spfi wires (they're pretty clustered up right now) and I'll be ready for a good long wheeling trip!

drilled and tapped a plug for an adapter perfect fit underneath now my gauges work!

I've tried the 1/8 adapter and it doesn't seem to fit. the book calls for a 3/8 iso thread, which seems absolutely ridiculous.

I have an ea82 I'm trying to put equus gauges in. The mechanical water temp adapter fit, but there doesn't seem to be an adapter for a mechanical oil pressure gauge. does anyone know of a company or part number or anything that might work - be it a new gauge or just an adapter? I've tried the equus adapters #9851, 9852. no luck. right now I have the goods to drill and tap a brass plug to make an adapter with, but I'd rather just get the right one. thanks in advance for the help

I'm down in Chimacum/port townsend area, and I'd love to get in on NWWO and some subie runs. I've been working out some electrical and cooling bugs, but I really want to put in some trail hours this summer.

played around in a favorite gravel pit... slightly stuck in the first two pics. able to drive out, but it took some serious maneuvering. I blame the tires I was running at the time. In the last pic, I had snapped my spindle going a bit too fast over rolling hills.

played around in my field, towed behind what used to be a wagon

I have a 88 EA82 SPFI non turbo that bogs down at full throttle. I have no idea when it started. Up to 3/4 throttle it runs just fine. If I feather the throttle i can usually get it up to speed relatively quickly, but if I push it all the way, it loses all power. It also idles really high, even though the idle set screw is backed all the way out. I've replaced plugs, wires, coil, filters, and even rebuilt the heads... what else could it be? My best guess right now is maybe a throttle position sensor? any better ideas?

My understanding is that putting synthetic in a high mile rig, like any subaru, has a potential of causing leaks and lowering compression. The theory is that gunky buildup that the rig has been running with inside the engine is cleaned out by the detergents in the synthetic oil. Since there are years of buildup all running through that engine at once, it can cause damage. I have run synthetic in my POS subie without any problems so far, but I also rebuilt the heads right before that, so that previous post might be on to something, too.

still working on the spare tire rack in the back... hopefully it'll be done this week.

Recently finished a 1.5" front lift, 2.5" rear lift... lincoln locked rear, 29" tires