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WoodsWagon

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Everything posted by WoodsWagon

  1. I'm leaning a bit towards this option. I have noticed on both the EJ25's Ive taken apart, a 1998 and a 1997, that the lower center headbolt seems like it isn't nearly as tight as the upper center headbolt. This is on both sides of the engien. The two center headbolts are supposed to be cranked tighter than the 4 end ones. This might be part of the problem, somehow the headbolts weren't torqued right on assembly.
  2. In snow and slush with conventional brakes, you can lock the wheels up and still get a lot of braking action because of the plowing the locked wheels are doing. The pile of snow/dirt ect. in front of the locked wheel helps stop the car. With ABS, the wheel is constanly unlocking and running over this hump, reducing the stoping force. I get really sketched out in my mom's outback, you slow down and a certain rate, ABS kicks in, and you can feel the car's rate of decel decrease markedly. ABS is great on dry pavement, but it is a detriment on snow, where often you aren't "out of control" even if you have your wheels locked up. Having a disable switch would be nice. Which brings us to: What wire would you cut and put the switch in to disable the ABS system? Having the system disabled, but the ABS warning light come on on the dash would be best.
  3. Pushbutton 4wd: 153k, had a bit of bearing grumble in neutral. D/R slective: 95k, ripped the teeth off of something in there, No movement forward, reverse, any gear, 4wd hi, lo, 2wd. took the access cover off the top, could see the teeth were chewed, pieces everywhere inside. I was romping on it fishtailing on a dirt road, shifted 2nd, and that was the end of it. It was after a long month of good burnouts in RWD.
  4. I commute 1.5 hours a day in my 4" lifted loyale. I've gotten critical comments from police, but no fix it tickets. If I had the EA82, it would suck. With the EJ, it drives fairly normal. Stability isn't a problem, it handles as well as you could need. Milage is a consistant 23mpg, remember to recalculate your odometer reading to compensate for the larger tires. Keep lots of spare parts if you need quick turnaroud between a wheeling trip and a commute. If I wanted the expense of haveing a separate wheeling rig or commuting rig, I wouldn't have a subaru for the trails for sure. Just take it easy when you're driving around the woods.
  5. WoodsWagon

    Lift Q

    Stronger, no. Much less likely to cause body damage, yes.
  6. I'll get a better solenoid soon. Money is kinda tight, so I'll leave this solenoid in so that I can jump start the car off it's self and use the winch. Charging will have to be done from a wall outlet for now. Isolators=money, which I don't have. <20 is all I can afford. The battery tray I made is probably stronger than the body it's bolting too. I'm fiting the battery in where the turbo would go on turbo subarus. It interferes with an A/C line, a brake line, the power steering hoses, and one of the PCV nipples on the air duct. Everything except the PCV nipple can be (and has been) bent out of the way.
  7. It's all first gen EJ22 stuff going on the block, and it's going in a loyale that's already running an EJ motor. Skip, the link shows exactly the drilling I'm planning on. Good pics. I have a near brand new OEM y pipe and cat for a first gen legacy, still golden colored and shiny. From that back, I'd like to run 2 1/4" pipe, not the 1 3/4" that's on it now. That's restricting the EJ22 already, so it has to go.
  8. The alt's bearings seem fine. I loosened the belt and hand spun it, no noise or grumbling. I'll have to check charging voltage. I'm wondering if letting it idle with the lights and whatnot on meant that it's internal fan wasn't spinning fast enough to dump the heat created by the loads.
  9. WoodsWagon

    Lift Q

    My blocks are about 2" dia aluminum with a bolt hole drilled through the middle. The blocks don't crumple, the body does, which is why the 3 separate block design sucks. If you triangulate them, you change the forces on the body nuts from side push to tension, which they are meant for. It's easy enough to ad in braces, and it makes the area 100% stonger. Why use a design that's vulnerable to ripping chunks out of the body when you could put a much better setup in and not have to worry about it? It's not just me who's had this problem, I think it was subarutex who told me where to use a hole saw in the footwells to get in a put replacement nuts and washers in the framerail.. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=42681 Loyales all have power steering, but you knew that.
  10. I'm seting up dual batterys to run my winch. For isolation, i'm using a starter soleniod from a ford ranger. I'm wondering if the soleniods windings will be up to continuous duty. I'd like to tie it to the ignition so that it would charge when the engine was running, but I'm not sure if it would cook the windings. It pulls 3.5A to keep it closed.
  11. WoodsWagon

    Lift Q

    The first time was an encounter with a stump. Moving slow in high range, caught the stump and it yanked the wheel, crumpled the blocks. 2nd time, one of the bolts dissapeared, other two ripped out. Konrad welded the body back togther after that one.
  12. If you ever have the quarter panels off of an EA82, you'll see the safety measures in place. The front of the framerails where the bumpers mount is meant to crush. The whole upper frame support running from the base of the windshield forward to the headlights is rippled to crush. There is hooks in the hood hinges to stop the hood from going through the windshield. All sorts of safety measures. But on to the anecdotes. A friend had the front of his loyale crushed to the engine block by a pickup. Pulled out into traffic, took the hit in the drivers front wheel. He was fine, car was toast. I've taken a tree in the drivers B pillar. Dented up the rear door, bent the rear edge of the drivers door, tweaked the hinges, but didn't shift the pillar. I rear ended a ranger at 15mph. Wearing lap belt and auto sholder. I was fine, the front was shifted around a bit, but I had a seriously custom bumper on it, so the results aren't valid.
  13. The alternator on my EJ22 is cooking. The headlights aren't running bright, it's not whining, but the case is getting way too hot. I noticed when I went to lean on it, and almost burned myself. It's hot enough after idling with the headlights on and the heater on for 1/2 an hour that your spit will sizzle and bubble when you spit on it. I haven't done an amperage check or a charging voltage check on it yet. How long to alt's running this hot usually last?
  14. WoodsWagon

    Lift Q

    Tie the 3 blocks together with some steel bracing. You will rip the captured nuts out of the body if you don't. It's way easier to figure out how to tie the lift blocks together than to figure out how to drill holes through the body and weld patches in to replace what was ripped off. What happens when you have 3 individual blocks is that when you hit something with a front wheel, even at low speeds, the radius rod pushes back, the blocks topple, and rip the nuts out of the body.
  15. I dunno, I seem to replace things on my wallets terms more than on my own terms or the cars terms.
  16. If a clutch cable snaps, you can still drive the car. We had a hydro line pop on a jeep once, and we drove it out of the woods with no pedal. Had to forward and reverse a couple of times to make it around trees. Shut the engine off, put it in reverse, start it up, shut it off, put it in forward, start it up. It isn't the end of the world if the cable snaps, and it's easy to replace later.
  17. Don't worry, I'll give it a thourough trial by fire. My ej22 lasted 6 months from fresh rebuild to oil burning junk, the EA82 before that turned into a knocking lifeless lump in about a year of road use. It's on it's 3rd rear end, 3rd tranny, 3rd driveshaft, and a bunch of front halfshafts have bit it. If the EJ25 hold's up, it'll be a testament to a good setup.
  18. I've got a wood chisel ground to a shallow angle taper for separating bellhousings.Works a charm to get the corroded ones apart without chipping them. I've got some cut-off lengths of aluminum tube that I use as spacers to pull in halfshalfts using the axel nut.
  19. The fuel rails look to be the same design between the 2 engines. The water passages of the 2.2 head and the 2.5 gasket don't line up at all on one side. I want at least some flow through there. The EJ22 heads most probably don't flow as well as the EJ25DOHC's do. I'm not looking for high RPM power though, i'm looking for off-the bottom torque. If the engine stops pulling at 5k rpm's, I won't be really disapointed. What I need is 1k-3k pulling power to keep my 235/75r15's moving in the woods.
  20. Locked rear diff with FT4wd is fine. I have heard of a couple of people smoking the center diff in RX's running RWD only.
  21. So, i've been inspired to build engine #3 for my loyale. I traded a taurus for a 97 EJ25 with blown headgaskets, and I traded some other stuff for a pair of Ej22 heads. I bought $100 worth of gaskets today, and I will be spending the weekend rigging everything up. The 2.5 is on the stand, and the parts are on the table. The hardest part is going to be drilling the water passages into the headgaskets. I'll be seeing if I can put the 2.5l injectors into the 2.2l manifold. My injectors are what fried the 2.2 in the first place, so I need to swap them anyways. High compression, here I come!
  22. If it's not dripping, don't fix it. It's nearing time for a t-belt job. Cam seals and water pump are a good idea to do at the same time. Any shop worth it's salt can do these jobs. The job of the dealer is to fish for work. $800 canadian for a brake job is steep too. I just bought rear rotors, $68USD for both rears, and pads $32USD, and the pads were the good ones. So that's 100USD for a rear brake job.
  23. There is a small roll pin that goes through from the left side to the right. Be carefull, the wiring that goes to the switch is embedded in the boot, so just leave the knob flopping while you remove the boot.
  24. If the problem goes away when you hook up the green connectors, it's not the fuel pump. Having a bad VSS will cause it to accelerate OK if you lead it up to speed with the accelerator, but fall on it's face if you floor it. If it's a manual tranny, the VSS is in the spedometer head in the dash. If it's an auto, it has another one in the tranny. The car drives like the suck when the VSS is broken. When the green connectors are together, the CEL will flash codes as you drive, but the problem with the acceleration will be mostly gone.
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