WoodsWagon

The 3 cars are on hold... the hill's too slippery to be driving a loaded truck up. However, i'm finding other junk to pull. I was trying to roll a SBC into the back of my car. Well, fully dressed cast iron V8, lifted wagon, one person trying to lift it. Wasn't happening. Those things are heavy! I tried rolling it up a plank, but it kept breaking. There's a freezer chest out there among other things.

The only other suspension difference is spacer blocks that are put in between the engine and rear subframes on the Outbacks. This is what keeps the suspension angles similar with the extended struts. You can put these in, however, our 1995 legacy brighton with 1998 outback struts from KYB-GR2's aligns fine without the subframe spacers. It doesn't ride much different, and there hasn't been any axel issues. The lower contol arms, tie rods, knuckles, lateral links, are all the same. You lose clearance if you use the spacers, about 3/4" of an inch. Up to you. Putting the outback struts in the 90-94 legacys is a little more work I think. There was some talk about using different strut caps for them.

It's not the exhaust if it pulls fine above 1500rpm's. Exhaust restrictions would limit the engine's rpms to 1500, then it wouldn't rev any higher. First gen EJ22's don't have EGR. The pcm is under the steering column, silver box, 3 large yellow connectors. Easy swap. The fuel tank has a jet pump of sorts that pumps fuel across the hump in the middle of the tank to keep the fuel pump fed. Any fuel issues would tend to cause problems reving the engine higher. It's acting like the timing is being way retarded untill 1500 rpms, then advancing to normal. Is the check engine light on? If not, does it come on when the key is in the run position, but the engine hasn't been started?

I had a clunking noise once. It was a loose bracket bolt, which turned into a missing bracket bolt, which then turned into a scraping-grinding noise as the caliper swung out into the wheel. It wasn't fun.

It's not just my car. The engine we swapped out of Konrad/soo's car this summer was running on 3cyls. Took the left head off, and it had a burned exhaust valve exactly like mine did. #1 cyl, big carbon deposits, burning lots of oil, lower section of valve face burned off. Other cyl's look fine. So that's 3 exhaust valve smoked through on EJ22's. Anyone else heard of this happening on an EJ22?

Worked for us. I put them on a brighton. It's higher than an outback clearance wise because they have smaller bumpers and don't have the subframe drop spacers that the outbacks have. 8.5" of clearance to the catylitic converter, which is the lowest point under the car. 9.5 to the crossmember.

Need to know if the EZ30 8 bolt bellhousing would bolt up to the EJ 4 bolt tranny bellhousing. Also need to know if the EJ flywheel will bolt to the EZ crank to use an EJ clutch.

YOu should be able to walk away from an argument about of all things fuel milage without ditching a whole forum. Whats sad for all you poor lower than 20 mpg suckers is that I'm getting 20 mpg, running on 3 cyls, and commuting through 17 stoplights during peak traffic times in a 3000lb wagon riding on BFG all terains. The power of mpfi on an EJ22. Now if only that injector hadn't leaned out and fried the cyl and valves, it would be getting 23mpg consistantly. I even had it up to 27 cruising at 80 on the highway going to wyoming. I'm on the vehicular Atkins diet.... I avoid carbs.

I ignored the safety precaution. I just was carefull unbolting the nut that holds the battery cable to the starter and wraped some tape around the end. As long as you don't touch anything, you wont weld your wrench and blow your battery. All in all, probably smarter to undo a battery cable at the battery before pulling it off the starter. it is doable without though.

Shift at 6k rpms. Other than that, power upgrades aren't going to get you much. The EJ-series swaps are a lot of work, but they totally change the car. Depending on the EJ engine you put in, it's anywhere from 115hp to 300+ hp. With only 135 in an EJ22(common as dirt) you have 50% more power than stock. Try and get that with an intake and exhaust on any engine.

Watch out for the idler tensioner on the 2.5 If possible, use the one off of the 96 engine which is the seperate hydro- cylinder style. The j/y engine may have the newer style, which has the hydro tensioner integrated into the arm that the pully is mounted on. This style must be very carefully compressed. Push too hard, the seals inside blow. It sucks.

To test the starter: Pull off the small wire with the black connector on the end from the solenoid. It may be hidden under the heater hoses. Jump a piece of wire from that contact on the starter to the positive cable. It should crank the engine. If not: To pull the starter: One 14 MM bolt and one 17mm nut hold the starter to the bellhousing. It's either a 14mm or a 12mm nut that holds the positive cable to the starter. The small wire that runs the solenoid pulls off. There is 3 8?mm screws that hold the solenoid cover on. Take off the nuts that hold the two contacts in, and replace them. The contact disk is usually reusable. Throw everthing back together and it should work.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=70544 I'm running lean money wise right now, so spending money getting a full valve job is out of the question. I'm commuting an hour and a half through around 15 stoplights and 3 stopsigns on 3cyls. I could buy a 2.2 for 100 bucks, but I have a 2.5 I traded a taurus for all ready to pull. I have to do the headgaskets on it anyways, so I would like to put some 2.2 heads on it and keep my intake manifold (with a new injector on #3) The extra compression would be nice too.

The contacts that porqupine and JDX have pictures of in the other thread are most probably the problem. I just worked on those on my dad's 95 brighton. I took the contacts out of a spare starter I had which had less wear and put them into my dad's starter, where the contacs were worn down to almost paper thin. It wouldn't start randomly, and a few tries of the key would eventually crank it.

Burned valves. Should I just find another head, or fix the ones I've got. I have two right hand heads with smoked exhaust valves, and I would like to use a good EJ22 head on the EJ25 i'm picking up tonight.

I bought a reman disk from autozone for 30 bucks. It's nearing it's end about 6 mo's later. I reused the pressure plate and didn't resurface the flywheel, so that affects it. There were multiple times I did a quick release from 2krpms with RWD and the E-brake held that instead of breaking the tires (215/75r15) loose, it just smoked. Once it heats up, it's useless. So.. it'll get the job done for a short while, and the price can't be beat.

You are loosing ground clearance than can be handy in deeper snow though.

some redneck subaru fun.

Oh yeah, I forgot... When I took the crossmember off, there was a hole rusted through the body's framerail. Got to mig weld a patch in. First time mig'ing, and I did pretty good.

My dad ended up casting urethane into the crossmember with machined cores to replace the burned out diff bushings. Pulled the old one, and installed the new one. Undercoated it to try and stop it from rusting again. Nice to have a strong rear suspension again, now we can get back to overloading the car on a regular basis.

http://www.sdsefi.com/air17.html

Not much in my experience. I just toasted another, and I wasn't even trying. The car was in 4wd at the time too.

According to the link (thanks BTW) the main causes for burned valves other than mechanical issues are coolant problems, lean mix or clogged exhaust. The head was a good hydro head, so no mech problems. The cooling system is clean and functional, so unlikely to be the problem. Clogged exhaust... well, it doesn't really pull over 6k rpms and i think it's probably because of the exhaust. It doesn't spend that much time up there though... and wouldn't that affect all the cyls, not just #3? That leaves it down to lean mix. It's not a vacuum leak, so it must be a bum injector. Sucks to have 2 heads and a freshly rebuilt block toasted by a friggin injector.

I can say that it's deffiniately not the stub shafts or the axels because you can get the diff to engage if you rotate a wheel and the input shaft at the same time, it will catch in and work for a bit, then go free. I'd say it was the ring gear, but... it might also be the bearing for the pinion shaft letting the pinion skip out of the ring gear. When you put it in 4wd, and take a corner, it'll bind up like normal and then whabam! unload as the diff skips. The last diff I grenaded was an open one, but i was doing some nice posi-style burnouts and had some wheel hop happen. That one the crosspin broke and the carrier cracked and the spyder gears shattered and jammed in the ring gear.. it was ugly. What's a pain is that i couldn't get the roll pins in right last time, so I just hammered one in from each side of the axels. I was in a hurry to get some wheel drive back, and I figured I wouldn't blow this diff because I was done doing burnouts with the big tires on. I'll have to drill the rollpins out. I'll take some pictures of the last diff I blew tomorrow, and when I have time to swap this one out, I'll take some pics of the inside of it.

Would a lean condition be offsett by the oil getting sucked in? I would think that the oil would help cool things down. I couldn't tell by the plug if it was running lean, because it always had oil crustys on it. 25psi at cranking speed.