WoodsWagon

Hillclimbing on frozen sand. I was plowing my way up, and I heard a Ping! from the back and backed down. Everything seemed fine, but while I had it up on the lift today, I noticed that the driveshaft can rotate without the axels turning. This was a good diff, and I just changed the fluid a month ago. It's good I have a 3rd spare in the shed.

And I wasn't even beating on it this time! Same cyl as last time, new head. Same symptoms, has spark, smells like gas when turned over with the plug out. Pisht noise in exhaust, hardly any compression. Can oil burning cause valves to burn? the only other thing I can think of is if my injector is bad and running that cyl lean all the time. Might explain the rash of problems #3 has that none of the others do. I've unpluged the injector to try and save the cat (or what's left of it) and gas, and I'm going to run it like this untill I put the 2.5 in. What's sad is that the EJ22 0n 3 cyls is pretty comparable to the EA82 ever was on 4.

I'm borrowing a '86 K2500 to go do some pulling. right now, the hill's too icy, and the owner of the truck doesn't want me to take it through the river to come in the back way.

The bracket from the EJ manual tranny bolts right on to the EA82 tranny, so that's your mounting point. Shorten, or if you have a lift, use the EJ22 pitch stop rod. My car has a 3" crossmember drop, and the EJ22 rod fits perfect. I get enough driveline dance as it is, so I like to have it on.

The keyless entry has a controllor box that is zip tied or electrical taped to the harness under the steering column. It's about 1"x4"x6", black, and says subaru security system or something on it. The button has this funny bell-shaped surrond on it, looks more like a beeper than a button. Find the box first, then follow the wires from it.

Do all ea82's have the dual springs, a smaller counter-wound one in the middle? I took a carbed one apart and it had the dual springs...

By looking at your example videos, I'd have to say that that's the stuff that most of us do on a regular basis. There was nothing hardcore about that stuff. I do mudholes and hillclimbs equal to those, but i'm in the middle of the woods, not some fields. Rivercrossings, driving though ponds, lots of that stuff. My problem is that I go wheeling alone most of the time. My friends have moved up to trucks too pretty to wheel. So, no one to video.

People who get into hardcore wheeling switch to toyotas or samuris. Solid axels front and rear can't be beat. The wheeling we do with our subies is impressive because we got there in a CAR. The trails can be nasty, rutted, and rooted, but nothing to the people who run rockwells and 40" boggers turned by a 500cu caddy engine. So do we do insane wheeling? Depends on the context you put it in. Also remember that a lot of the stuff we do isn't caught on tape. We're too busy working on wheel placement to care about videoing it.

I wouldn't do an ej22 swap. For me, 3k to 5k rpms in first is useless in 2wd, I just get wheel spin. Thats with 235/75r15's on it too. In RWD or 4wd, it's great, but it's a handful in front wheel drive.

Is the center of the pully wobbling, or is the outer part wobbling when you look at it when it's idling? There's a rubber part in the middle, and if someone has been prying on the pully to get it off the crank, it can get shifted. The center part is still fine on the crank, but the outer part where the belts ride wobbles back and forth.

Someone please run a 90-94 Legacy wagon. You could buy one for 100bucks, then put a hackjob turbo on it for 300, and have 100 left over to fix the suspension.

Those are great! However, The front plate looks like it covers over the air inlet for the radiator under the bumper. A fair bit of the airflow comes through there. Mabe you would want to drill some medium holes through that section?

Get a GM with the 2.8 V6 in it. A blazer or s-10 is good. Keep oil in it, and it will serve you well. New subies have too much technology in them for you to be comfortable with.

I had the car in over the pit today, so I took some measurements. 9.5" to the crossmember 9" to the two frame pieces under the floorpans. 8.5" to the second cat in the middle of the car, which is the lowest point. Not bad for a Brighton. I'm putting in maplights and an EA82 skidplate under it next.

Another thing that can cause that is the radius rod bushings. They get old, cracked and loose.

I had my 2.5 heads shaved and pressure tested through robbins. I went to the milford branch. They're good guys. The heads took a little longer to come back than I expected. They said the driver who does the night deliveries has a problem with things "falling off the back of the truck" nod, nod, wink wink, so they waited for the afternoon truck. Good work on the heads.

Or you could put the control arm off of a 4wd one and leave the axel stub sticking out. I would think that 4wd rear disks are a lot more common.

If you drill the flywheel, I'd advise not dremeling it, but instead machineing it. We machined my flywheel, the holes are ovalish, but you get maximum hole-bolt contact area. If you just grind till it fits, you're losing a fair bit of contact area. That said, the bolts job is to clamp the flywheel to the crank boss. The friction between the crank boss and the flywheel is where the power is transfered. The pilot bearing hole is the same size between both flywheels, and it is that hole that centers the flywheel. The main disadvantage is the suck-rump roast pressure plates. I beat the snot out of my drivetrain, and the flywheel has held up fine. It's the transmission back that blows.

Which is why you buy a rustbucket with a clean title and, uh, "transfer" the title onto the good body from the junkyard. The vin plates that anyone looks at are rivited onto the body. It's rare that anyone looks at the one stamped into the firewall.

Every time I go out wheeling, I pack a bunch of trash up and haul it out. One of the benifits of a wagon, you might say. I've moved some strange things in my time, such as propane grills, doors (house and car), tires and wheels, wheelbarrows, batteries, engines + transmissions, and of course, the ever-present beer cans. I've called in backup to haul things like motorcycles, riding mowers, and refrigerators. My latest endevour is hauling cars out of the woods. I pulled a 70's Civic with no motor, and no wheels out of the woods thursday. I had to use the stretchy strap, to get enough momentum to pull it through the trees. Today, I was pulling a VW beetle down the powerlines, It had no roof, motor, or wheels, and it was putting up a fight. Flats were fine, but the hills were killer. The VW ripped in half on one hill, so I dragged the front half to the bottom of the final huge hills. I'll go back tomorrow and drag the rear half to the same spot. There's a chevette and what looks to be a ford? down there too. The ford? is in two halfs and heavily crushed by cars. I'll need to borrow a friends K2500 to pull the cars up the last hill, the subi just can't get the traction. Mabe I should make a tow dollyish thing to put under the cars so they drag easier. It's a good excuse if your wheeling in questionable territory. Who's going to complain if you're hauling junk out?

Would you like to borrow my baseball bat to "fix" the AAMCO owner? I have a nice dented aluminum one... I would not buy a TCU. Did they give you a quote for the origional job? Don't authorize any other work.

I'm pretty shure that's called a "rag joint"

As for the ASE system, it really needs improvement. All the books that give test prep are just question and answer, no theory. If the ASE people had a better way of testing whether mech's knew the theory instead of just the correct answer, it would be better. Not dissing you for being a master tech, that's a lot of tests you have to take and keep current with. I was running the competition circuit, and ASE tests are all over the place there. Dr. RX, I would think especially with the turbo that you would want a thinner oil so that it would reach it fast?

I bet that STI is still drivable. Might not pass inspection, but you could pimp around in it for the 10 days. for 2k, buy it. You could make that back in parts easy. The youtube brumby is the one with the monster turbo sticking out of the middle of the hood.

High compression + nitrous = trouble. The headgaskets are pretty close. The coolant holes through the gaskets are a bit different. I've been told the deck height is the same, so you can use the 2.2l manifolds on it. It's pretty much plug and play. I'm getting a 2.5 to put in my loyale now that I've FUBARed my nice rebuilt EJ22. I was considering doing a hybrid, but I also wonder if I can afford the premium gas all the time. But the torque...mmmmm...