WoodsWagon

He means that the oil is thick enough that it doesn't get flowing when the engine is really cold. The bearings have close tolerances, and the camshafts run directly in the head aluminum, so when they don't have oil flowing through them, they eat themselves really quick. With the camshafts running in the aluminum without real bearing material, they can jam and snap the timing belt.

Do you have links to these swaps? The bell housing looked a lot different, but mabe the extra bolts don't matter? If I could put a 5spd behind it, I'd buy it.

The opposite is true for people out by you, they're spoiled by the rust free-ness, and when they see a rust belt car, they do this: Most don't seem to get the difference between surface rust, and real rust.

I doubt that it's the brake booster, as the vibration remains if you pull the handbrake on and let off the foot brake.

Make sure you get vids. YouTube 'em for all the other people out there.

Brakeclean will not help. The caliper is held on with 2 12 or 14mm bolts, coming in from the backside. Remove them, stick a prybar in the hole in the middle of the caliper above the rotor, and shift the caliper forwards and backward untill it comes off. The two pieces that the caliper bolted to are the slider pins. They have rubber bellows boots on them. The boots pull off the bracket, and the pins should slide out of the bracket easily, If they don't, there's your problem. With the caliper off, and it tucked under the halfshaft so it's not hanging from it's hose, you can acces the two pads. They should be snug in their bracket, but you should be able to remove and replace them without too much dificulty. If you still havent' found the problem, grab a bit of wood, and a c-clamp. Use the wood and the clamp to compress the piston back into the caliper. If it won't move in at all, you have a seized caliper.

Oh, sorry for misinforming. I spent a lot of time with the EJ wiring diagrams and remembered the TCU comm line. The TCU has it's own speed sensor? or does it use the one in the spedo? You can auto-bash all you want, but when that truck with the auto oozes over that ledge you just burnt half you're clutch bouncing over, you'll see the benifits.

The centerline of the starter is further away form the centerline of the crankshaft on the EJ22's. Since the starter mounts in a cast hole in the transmission, the flywheel size has to match the transmission. I don't see how you could offset the starter in the transmission so that it would fit the radius of the EJ22 flywheel. I'll go play with my pile of dead trannys (sounds kinda nasty-serial killerish) and see what I can see, but I'm pretty shure it wont work.

One thing to consider is that the ECU communicates with the TCU. The communication language may not be the same between the EJ22 ECU and the EA82 4EAT TCU. You may be able to swap an EJ22 TCU in and see if you could hook it up if it doesn't work. THe transmission will not be happy if it doesn't get it's info from the ECU. I'd say it was a different torque converter, but it may have the same input shafts into the tranny. The 4EAT isn't bad, they do use it in drag racing instead of the manual. I prefer manuals myself, but I would take an auto if it had some nice crawling gear and a manual valve body.

It could be that the two sliding pins that the caliper bolts to are seized. It will hold the outer pad clamped to the rotor pretty hard if they do seize. Try taking the caliper off and moving everything around.

On these old gen cars, there is no pressure sensor on the fuel tank, so having the cap off will not throw a code. having the cap off will create a small vacuum leak when the purge solenoid switches on, but it shoudn't be enough to cause drivability issues.

Use regular 5/16ths coolant hose, it will make the two 90' without kinking. I chopped mine off geting the manifold off,and I replaced mine with fuel line (it was what I had on hand). and no problems yet. Make that 3/16ths my sizes are getting fuzzy, I changed mine last week, I know it was a 16th, I just forget which one. It's obvious if you look at the size of the nipple it goes on.

We put the outback rims I gave my dad for christmas on today. I bought the rims, he bought the tires, $260 for 4, lifetime rotation, 60k warranty. Nice M+S rated all seasons. It looks nice. More ground clearance than my mom's outback, because the brighton doesn't have the subframe drop to match the outback struts I put on. The bumpers are also better, higher approach and departure angles. I cut out the rear door panels to put in the speaker grills. Takes about 3/4 an hour to cut out the holes and drill the screw holes. The grills looked origional when I was finished though. They may not match the rest of the interior perfecly, but who would notice? When pulling rear speakers from a car in the j/y, get the 6 little plastic inserts that the speaker buckets screw into to hold them into the door. I didn't notice them, so I'm going back in the morning to get them. The wiring is already in place for the speakers in the rear doors. All you have to do is cut the vapor barrier in the door, cut the hole in the door panel and put the grills on, and put the screw inserts into the door and screw everything togther. Simple mod, big improvement. I'll put some pictures of the car up tommorow afternoon.

When your friend riding in the back seat hits the roof, then bends the seatback when you land.

Just don't run with them turned on.

Completely summs those cars up...awesome!

If you park it, the rust will eat it. Might as well just use it untill it dies or is killed. If you park the car for more than 6mo's I gaurantee you will be doing all the brake lines, and possibly the fuel tank when you try and bring it back.

See if you can cut down on front wheelhop with the heim joints. I suspect those bushings of leading to hop, and having the heim joints dissapear, or at least reduce it, would be nice.

The 360's must have been death traps. I mean, think of the size of the boats on the road at the time. It would be like riding in a soda can.

I sent you a PM at 10:53 AM...

Can it spin the 33's on pavement? Or is that just asking for trouble.

Did they come with fiberglass roof panels? One came into the j/y and it looked like it had been in a rollover, and the whole middle of the roof was borken into pieces. It doesn't have a transmission, but the engine is there. Looks just like a snomobile engine.

Driving cross-county isn't that hard duty on a car. I'd say that I do more damage to my car each week than I did driving it out to wyoming. Other than halfshaft issues, and other issues I knew about before I left, the car did great. Check stuff like wheel bearings, cv boots, and brake's before you leave.

I run 30's w/ my EJ22. Off road, it's great in Low range. On the street, you have to be a bit carefull with the clutch to get it moving in 2wd hi. If you give it too much gas and let the clutch out too fast, it will break the front wheels free, but it is easier to stall when just driving around. uphill stops can get iffy, the clutch ends up getting the short end of the stick, or you can throw it in low and it's fine.

Dear god! That thing is an animal! +1 on custom axels. That thing is going to eat them and the bearings as fast as it will suck down the 91 oct.