WoodsWagon

Which is why this: and I took visegrips off of coolant line at base of carb. did a lot to solve the problem.

So what you're saying is that the truck on the right is more dangerous than the truck on the left? next to my dad's gmc jimmy with 38's Sorry for the borrow rooinater, but it fit the point well. BTW, nice truck.

Bgd73 says that "Light truck and Subarus should not be lifted because it elevates the weight of the car above the wheels, leading to less traction and insability. He wouln't lift a vehicle unless it was a purpose built mud bogging truck. Putting the bigest tires on without a lift leads to the greatest offroading capability." I say, good luck puting tires on that actually give you ground clearance without lifting the car. My tires fill the wheelwells, and I needed a lift to do it. I also put an EJ in to turn the wheels with something called torque. Another thing that he ignores is suspension flex. Subies don't have much, but take an early 80's lifted toyota with some soft springs and you will see that at full flex, the stuffed tires fill the wheel wells, which means that all that lift was needed to keep traction through suspension flex. In my own experience, the body of my car would be trashed if it wasn't for the lift. The body clearance I gain with the lift, combined with the ground clearance I gained by going to the larger tires means that I can climb over stone wall crossings without bashing the car. I can also cross gullies better because the lift improves the approach and departure angles of the car. Keep your armchair offroading to yourself. Those of us that actully wheel know the importance of a lift.

Back in june, when the engine was rebuilt, I replaced: Main Bearings=$49 Rod Bearings= $24 All seals= $252 Rings= $97 Timing belt= $27 Water Pump and sundry parts Cleaned everything spotless Honed Cyls Hot water washed block halfs after honing It was not a partial rebuild. Everything was measured, and everything was in spec. down to the last cam lobe. It was done the proper way. The only thing done wrong was the reversed placement of a valve spring. I had the heroin addict and the helpful but clueless kid working with me, so I did most of the work myself.

What I have always run across with the advise on oil burning is that if it smokes on hard accel, it's the rings, if it pufs on startup, it's the stem seals. It doesn't smoke at WOT. It billows at cruise. Why is it behaving unlike the normal symptoms? Could I be getting enough volume through my intake valve stem seals to cause this? If I had a decent Digi cam, my pictures would actually show something. As it is, all I have is washed out blurry pics of the bore's The scratching isn't that bad. You can see them, but you can't feel them WTF would have caused them in the first place. My lesson from this whole $600 engine rebuilding experience is that if if aint broke, don't fix it. These engines came with chrome rings from the factory, and there was no wear on anything in the block. I rebuild it, and 6mo's later it's a POS. Do I try the stem seals? Or do I put this engine in the spares pile and put in the 2.5w/ a blown head gasket from the JY? I hate throwing money away like this.

Engine history, condensed version: Rebuilt it at school, assembeled in a hurry. Drove to wyoming 2,400miles on 2 day old engine Hood latch broke in ohio, couldn't check oil till wyoming. Added 3qts of oil in wyoming (crankcase holds 4.2) Hauled ford bronco home from town= heavy load Smoking begins, slight puff at startup Drove home. Beat the piss out of car regularly Oil consumption up to 1qt a week, 400miles a week or so through fall semester Chunk of valve burns out on hill Replaced head with a spare from another terminal oil burner Pulled engine and removed #3 piston to check for damage, noted scratches. Deeper scratches in piston. Rings OK, properly clocked around piston Reassembled engine Oil consumption through the roof. It lays james bond style smoke screens. If I cruise in first at 2.5krpm, I can fill the road wall to wall with thick, lingering smoke. The compression test I did when I was diagnosing the puked valve had 150psi dry on the other 3 cyl's. It has plenty of power, it'll kick the rear out sideways if you floor it rolling in first or second w/ 30" A/T's on it.

So, my #3 cyl on my EJ22 is sucking down oil. It's not a pcv fault, I plugged/ disconencted all the hoses and it still burned oil. The rings are not cracked, and there is a few scratches in the cyl wall, but none deep enough to catch a fingernail on. The oil burning goes like this: small cloud at startup. No smoke under decel/engine braking. No smoke at WOT. Massive smoke at 2k-4k rpm cruising/ part throttle. Unfortunately, this is where the engine is used most of the time. I'm up to a quart every 50 miles. No, that's not missing a zero, this thing is guzzling oil.mThe rear of the car is coated in a blackish grime of oil soot. I have 6 gallons of Sears 10w30 SD rated oil from the 70's. This will keep it lubed for a bit untill I figure out how to fix this. The billowing smoke at part throttle is the biggest clue I think.

This is the accident story: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=67655 The brace to the lower radiator support helps it's strength a lot. I could tell by the wrinkled sheet metal how it had spread the impact across the front of the car.

Safety is the biggest reason. It doesn't matter if I'm rolling the car on the street, or the track. The SCCA has been advertising on campus a fair bit, so I was thinking of what I would need to do a bit of weekend-warrior competition

Busts open a bottle of champagne, and christens the new forum... What do you have for a roll cage, or plans for one in your car? I'm specifically interested in EA82 wagons, but other cars may offer good ideas.

Spfi.

Owner wanted 750 for the engine tranny combo over the phone from his son, who runs the shop. You don't think that if one cyl had water in it, and another fired on starting, that it would have enough force to bend something? I could buy the engine separately from the tranny if I knew whether I could hook a 5spd manual up to it.

Mabe if the newspaper had an article to go with the poll, people would know what the heck they were voting for.

Is there any compatability between the 8 bolt bellhousing and the 4bolt? I don't want to bother wiring up a TCU if I do get the engine. A five speed would be great, but I haven't heard of any with the 8 bolt pattern.

Did you get to keep the deer? Mmmm the taste of venison can ease the pain of bodywork.

I took a closer look today. The throttle plate is corroded shut.. first bad sign. The dipstick came up overfilled and mocha-ish... second bad sign. The tranny dipstick came up with chunky bits on it?.. Lookin ugly. I pulled a valve cover. It's deja-vu with the 2.5 DOHC-same head design. Camshaft lobes are not rusty, inside looked clean. Looked like a perfectly good engine from what internals I could see. From the looks of the bellhousing, the 3.0 has it's own style, and it's own style tranny? Anyone run across this before? There was a lot more bolts holding the engine to the tranny than I'm used to. Owner wanted 750 for the engine tranny combo over the phone from his son, who runs the shop. Owner donated tools to and supports the highschool auto program where I graduated from last year, and did national competitions for. I hope this will work in my favor when I do face to face negotiations. I'm Thinking around $400 for the combo, as both are dubious. I also want to find out what he did with the wiring harness to run the 4cy in the 6cyl body.

There is also the possibility that someone tried to start is without removing plugs and bent a rod. There's loads of what ifs, but if I can get it cheap, There's a moderate chance it could run again.

Having the MAF sensor disconnected, or the wires to it chewed through, can cause this. It'll fire right up, run for a couple of secs, then die. You would be amazed how long it takes to figure that out at 2am after a full day of wrenching.

A local shop owner bought a flood car, LL bean 3.0r. He swaped the engine, doors, and some of the wiring out from a 2.5l legacy, so he has a ll bean package 2.5l legacy now. The engine is sitting under a pickup bed cap. I haven't looked at it yet, but I may pick it up just to take it apart. If it doesn't look to bad, I may fix it and mabe swap it into an older car.

Glad to know I'm not the only one who's been hosed on wheel bearing prices. The gently coned washer that says out on one side? grab a couple off a car in the jy. How did you lose them?

Herfe's the latest pic of the bumper. The skidplate is off, but it's frame is there. I had it out for a break in run on the replacement head, so I was planning on changing the oil soon, so I left the plate off. This is after my accident with rear ending a ford ranger. notice the slightly sprung hood, the radiator support got pushed up a bit.

Here's the promised pic: That's with the stock mudflap on that side. It rubbed for a while, but then it melted enough of the flap off that it's fine now. Another nice feature of the rims is the placement of the valve stem. It's right about on the centerline of the wheel, and peeks out through one of the holes in the rim. It's really protected. I've had to plug a stem with a gummy candy and electrical tape after shearing it off on a rock before, so I really like this design.

I know, a topic people talk about, but don't like to participate in. I'll admit right off the bat that I have engaged in environmentally damaging wheeling... and it was fun. I've been dealing with people who trash the trails, and doing my own trail cleanups (one of the benifits of having a wagon). But still, enough people go out each weekend and F up my work. I read in magazines and on line that "the greens are closing all our trails" and "tree huggers have won again". The blame for the trails being closed is being passed off. Off roaders seem in denial that their individual actions screw it up for everyone, and then they complain later how it got shut down. I'm throwing on a link to a decent article on the problem: http://www.cal4wheel.com/alerts/sema.pdf I'm pretty passionate about this issue, and I belive it's one mostly of respect. I'm looking for your views on the problem.

1998 Outback 2.5l. When stoped at a light, or anywhere, it vibrates ilding in drive. Put it in neutral, the noise goes away. This seems like a common problem. The solutions have ranged from PCV valves to Juju majic, and front halfshafts. I would like a list of A) How many have this problem and What solution if any, you have tried (other than throwing it in neutral or ignoring it.)

I prefer the flaming scissors myself. The blue wrench might have gotten it off, but then what would have happened to any heat treating the stub axel got?