WoodsWagon

I took some side shots earlier today, i'll post the pictures up later. The tires stick out about 3/4" from the top of the wheel well. On the inside, you can slide your pinky between the tire and the spring seat. They are just about the perfect rim. They look nice to boot.

The ground strap bracket and the cable bracket both anchor onto the bolt that holds the starter to the bellhousing. That other bolt looks like the one that holds the bracket for the wiring on the other side. (or horror... one of the 6 pressure plate bolts.

What if you can't get the stub axel out of the cup like mine. I tried using a bar and a sledge to get the stub out of the cup after I had pulled the stub from the diff, and it still wouldn't move.

It works fine. Plenty of power, smooth idle. There was some lifter tap on the head I swapped, but it went away after I drove it a bit. Nice to have it back running.

Mount a joystick with a long lever to the passenger side floor, route all 4 cables to it, and make it the passengers job to controll wheelspin.

Are the nuts with the outer tie rod end? The inner tie rod end unthreads from the end of the rack. Pull the boot off of the rack, crank the wheel all the way towards that side, and put a wrench on the inner tie rod end.

1995 legacy brighton= 148k 1998 Outback= 118k

Engage E-brake Break loose axel nut. Jack up car and place on jackstands Remove wheel Remove 12mm bolt at lower side of caliper. Release E-brake swing caliper upwards and then inwards to remove from upper pin. Stick caliper under halfshaft. Remove brake pads. Undo 17mm caliper bracket bolts Remove caliper bracket Undo axel nut Pull hub and rotor off of axel end Remove 4 14mm bolts holding rotor to hub Reverse process to assemble.

Yes, your GT has them, but it's the older body style. So it seems like 95-96 Legacy L sedans and wagons have them. I'll have to cruise some J/Y's and find some.

Hardly.. Here's your "artic tundra" weather forcast: http://www.wunderground.com/US/ME/Brewer.html 45F and sunny on thursday! It's not even freezing out right now. Why not swap on the SPFI from your wrecked 2wd and be done with the carb?

use white paper towels. Spray with brakeclean and rub off the surface untill the towels come off without black marks.

These are what I'm looking for. I want a power-adjustable mirror that folds in. What model legacy's could I find these on at the junkyard?

My dad's Brighton has them, but non power. My mom's Outback does not have them, but has power. Were power folding mirrors available for the 95-99 legacy body? I like folding mirrors bacause they hit trees less when you're in tight situations. I also like power mirrors.

The vehicle speed sensor will cause this too. I've been running without the spedo cable on my 2.2 for a while, and it will stall coming up to lights. Can you start the car without pushing in the clutch?

Why not kick it forward from the back seat? Crude, but it might just work. That's how I straightened my rear sear back, and how I push my floorpans back down, heck I fix a lot of stuff on my car by kicking it!

A local guy, 50buckbrat, he's never on. He has a lifted brat, rally blue, with an STI scoop on it. The huge one. It's a stock motor, but the scoop looks OK. Not my style, but hey. I might get a picture.

Why put a hampster in place of a horse? The cart isn't going to move much at all.

The same backlight is out on my dad's '95 legacy, and the one that lights up the station preset buttons is out on my mom's '98 Outback. Seems like quality control problems at the radio manufacturer?

Take the FWD fuse out, and make sure that the AWD is dead. Try doing a burnout on dirt, put it down in 1 and floor it. It should pull pretty hard. If you get just lots of front wheelspin, then you're sure that it's dead. Wouldn't make much sense to fix the AWD system if it's really not broken. Remember AWD will only spin one front and one rear wheel when you're really stuck.

I made little brackets out of sheetmetal that bolt on behind the cam pully and have a pointer. I made them using the plastic cover as a guide. Works well and looks nice too.

The wheels do look really nice, especially when they're clean. Being able to fit the center cap covers up all the unused lug nut holes. They're decently thick steel, none of the stamped junk, so I think that the rims are pretty strong. I'll take a side shot, I was taking pictures of my burned valve, and I turned around and thought, hey I should take a picture of that. They are off a late 80's Dodge ram D-50. It's really a rebadged mitsubishi truck. Nissan Hardbody sized pickup.

Hey, I did the same thing once, countersteered and let off on the gas, car whipped into oversteer, and I bit a tree sideways. As long as no windows are busted, keep on going.

The only thing I can think of is rusty tone wheels in the front. The tone wheels are hidden under the rotor hat, and read by a little sensor bolted into the hub. If they get rusty, the little teeth that create the magnetic pulses get muddied and don't produce the proper waveform in the sensor. If the ABS light is on, use a scan tool. If it isn't, take a look at the tone wheels.

As for the hotrods not having a PCV system, This is from a flathead ford v8 forum: "Standing on my "soapbox" for a second; Flatheads are NO different than new engines, there WILL be some blow by, AND condensation does form in the crankcase, so using some form of PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) WILL make your flathead live LONGER!! The "trick" is to use a system no one can spot easily!!"

You wanted research? Here's research: Pg. 540: "Gasoline vapor and steam are harmful if they are allowed to remain in the engine oil. Steam will condense and mix with the oil to form a sludge, while gasoline vapor will condense and dilute the oil. Two different methods are used to remove these vapors from the crankcase. The first method consists of a breather tube wich depends on the flow of air past its open end to remove the vapors. The second method, known as positive crankcase ventilation, utilizes the intake manifold pressure to circulate air through the crankcase, returning the vapors to the combustion chamber for removal." Bricker, Frederick E. "Automobile Guide." 1966. Theodore Audel & Co. Indianapolis Indiana Pg. 17-11: "It is vitally important that crankcase fumes be drawn off by the crankcase ventilation system. A ventilating system working poorly or not at all will permit a rapid buildup of sludge, water, acids, ect., that will shorten the service life of the engine." Pg. 17-14: "Remember the PCV system MUST be kept CLEAN. Rough idle, poor mileage and rapid engine wear will result when the system is inoperative." Stockel, Martin W. "Auto Service and Repair." 1969. The Goodheart-Willcox Co., Inc. Homewood, Ill.