WoodsWagon

Refresher on how a 4 cyl. boxer engine operates. For every piston moving up, there is another piston moving down at an equal but opposite rate. This is what makes them balanced. So, you will get flow forward and backward in the block, but the only flow out of the block will be blowby, and there will be no flow in. The pistons moving upward are cancled by the pistons moving downward, hence no pumping action. Blow by is the majority of whats in the crankcase. As a test: cap of the hose hookup on the block. Leave the two cam covers open. Rev the engine up to 3k rpms (or higher if you don't have neighbors) now put your fingers near the valve cover ports. You will have blowby whooshing out, and nothing getting sucked in.

Which happens to do with unequal PCV hose sizes, and nothing to do with earth forces.

This is where you are wrong. Yes, the gasses will evacuate whatever overpressure of the blowby there is. But, you will never get any fresh air in. The crankcase will always be full of the acidic air.

The least of the worrys is emissions. It's a system which reduces acid in the oil, rusting in the block, and if its blocked off, positive pressure in the crankcase forcing oil through the seals. And if you get an explosive mix in the block, the backfire could blow more than seals out.

#1 The PCV system is the replacement for the road draft tube system. The old Worthington I worked on had a 2" dia tube with mesh on the end that ran down the side of the block and stopped below the bellhousing. It had a breather filter on the front of the block. The way this system worked was that as the truck drove forward, air would flow past the end of the road draft tube, and suck crankcase air out. The only drawback other than emissions wise, was that the oil suspended in the air was spread on the road. Great for dirt roads, not so good for paved ones. #2 The PCV system uses controled manifold vacuum to suck the crankcase air into the intake. It's then burned, eliminating the slime on the middle of the road left by the road draft system. A small filter on the valvecover lets air in, and bad air is sucked into the manifold. The 71 Ford bronco of my uncles has this version. #3 The "closed" PCV system uses an inlet from the air intake tract, pre throtle but post air filter. The rest of the system is the same as #2 The reason behind a system which premotes flow though the crankcase is that all engines have blowby. Blowby is acidic, contains moisture, and can sometimes be flammable. Having flamable, acidic gasses in your crankcase isn't a good thing. None of the subaru engines was designed with a road draft tube to suck out the gasses, so you have to keep at least the suction side of the PCV system. Feel free to put a couple small filters on each valvecover, but keep a pipe running from the block to the PCV valve and to the manifold. It's harldy complicated, or detrimental to the engines performance.

Check the rear crossmember, the part that hold the diff and lower links to the body, for rust. Give it a couple of pokes if it looks suspicious.

It was good for an extra 3psi.... of total compression that is. I can buy a spare valve for 16 bucks, and have a seat grind done to get the head back, or I can swap on a spare head I have.

Darn fences, always jumping out at you when you're busy powersliding.

Here's the valve: Big ol' nasty chunk missing.

Both sides would be hydraulic, just one would have rollers and one wouldn't. Here's a pic of the roller head:

I couldn't find the thread where people put pics of their tire/rim combonations (I bet it'll show up in the related links at the bottom), so here's my combo: The rims are drilled out to 4lug, and the origional subaru center cap clips onto the lugnuts. Those are 235/75R15 BFG's. 4" lift Mods: If you want to move this to the right thread, I'd be grateful.

Loosening up the pitching stopper at the back of the engine to the firewall can help with letting you lift the motor up a bit before holding it with the chain.

How? The heads look about the same cyl side and outside, it's just under the valvecover it's different. I assume it has a different cam to go with the contact point of the roller vs. the point of the slider. I don't want to take the other head off... it's another 40 bucks for another head gasket.

The only one of those that I haven't seen is a SunSport wagon.

I've been there, hyrdolocked that. The air is pulled from inside the fender, so if your fender liner is loose in the front, it will scoop water up and the engine will suck it right down.

Will having roller rocker's on one side and the regular rockers on the other have any ill effects on my EJ22? I don't feel like swapping the other head, I could swap over the cam and regular rockers to the roller head. I'm just wondering if there will be any issues in having the mismatched valvetrain.

As one who has grenaded many rear ends and a couple of trannys (not this one yet...) If the wheels are jammed, and neither wheel will turn with both the front wheels off the ground, I'd say you have a lot of broken pieces stuck in the diff. I've had good luck with dragging vehicles the opposite direction till the shards pop back out of the gear teeth, draining the fluid and chips, and refilling.

I burned a valve on that cyl... so no compression wet or dry. I now have the head off. There's some scratches in the cyl wall, but I don't know if they're from bits of valve or a broken ring. I don't really want to pull the engine to get in to the wristpin. If it was the #1 cyl, I'd have it out in a flash.

I got the head off, the valve is burned good, it melted and kinda has slag hanging back into the port side of the valve. Seat is a bit messed up. I'm debating weather to repair this head or swap on a spare.

I put a little thin grease on that o-ring to hold it centered while I bolted the pump down. The other 4 fit much better, but don't use them.

Some of them have graphics on the side, like tree outlines, and special option packages. I've seen a couple in junkyards. They're usually pretty loaded.

I replaced the PCV valve with an OEM one recently, and it didn't help the oil conusmption. I rebuilt the engine last year, I may have screwed up a few things, I put one of the valve springs on backwards, and that valve is now a burned POS. I was careful putting in the pistons, but one of the oil rails may have cracked.

I used the same, 1/4" drive. I had to kick down on the ratchet to break the taper bolt free, and it didn't strip. (Had a friend hold the diff while I kicked the ratchet) I so rarely take those bolts out, it doesn't seem worth it to buy the right socket.

That's a nice way to wrap up a jolly chrismas fight.

The topic was hotroding an EA82, I made some points on why it's limited, namely the 3 90 degree turns the air has to make to get into the cylinder, and said why removing the heated manifold would be a dumb idea. I may be being a wongleflute, but i'm being fairly gentle about it. And tell me that this title doesn't deserve at least some mockery :Why isn't an EA82 a raging "hot rod"?