WoodsWagon

The car has every accesory in the book, it needs the 2.5 to haul it's fat arse around.

No one knows what this tranny is?

I'm growing to dislike the 2.5 DOHC, just through my own experience. It seems like lots of them blow, Bought ours blown, pulling one out of the JY that's blown, and pulling one out of the woods, that's most likely blown. Try finding a used 2.5 at any junkyard that doesn't have a blown headgasket.

"I bet your neck hurts ;)" Apparently it does for this lady. She's claiming lots of damages from the accident, and my insurance company wants to look at the damage to my car to see if the accident was as bad as she says it was, which it wasn't. But anyway, I don't want my insurance company seeing my car, the front bumper isn't exactly "energy absorbing". Could they dump the claim on me because of it? I really can't aford having my insurance company bail out on me. Trucks I can fix, people I can't. Aparantly she must be claiming the accident was horrible, because my insurance adjuster was activly surprised when he called to ask where the car was and my mom told him I had been driving it to school and back for 3 weeks.

If you get torque bind when it's in AWD, but it goes away when you put in the FWD fuse, that means the clutch pack is OK, right? I get a bit of "skipping" torque bind in our 98 outback, but it switches to full front wheel when you put the fuse in. Fluid looked old, darkish, so I was hoping changing it would save it.

The engine is rapping continuously from bad piston slap. I would think that the impact of the slap would be detected as the impact of detonation by the sensor. With the sensor hooked to the ground strap bracket, it is isolated from the shocks in the engine block, but it is still electrically connected. It doesn't throw the code now I've moved the sensor. I think the computer sees the sensor putting out a knock signal, retards the timing all the way, and it still is putting out a knock signal, so it says the sensor must be bad. Even when it's fully warmed up, the engine sounds like a diesel at idle. tak tak tak tak tak F'n POS 2.5L I'll run this block for a bit, then swap the new heads, waterpump, and timing belt stuff onto another block. It's another 100 bucks for headgaskets down the hole, but what can you do.

I think the piston slap was tripping it off. I relocated the knock sensor to the bracket where the main ground strap goes, and the code dissapeared. Totally defeats the purpose of the sensor, but what the heck. Used an IAC off of a junk EJ22 I had kicking around, that solved the idle. Replace all the plug wires, that cured the misfire. It's running pretty strong right now. I still have to change the tranny and rear end fluid, swap a tie rod, and put a split flange on the exhaust right behind the cat.

My 1998 legacy outback is throwing a code for knock sensor circuit malfunction and pulling all the timing. It's at 0degs advanced when it's under load= gutless. I tested the knock sensor, right resistance, and if you hook it up to the O-scope, it makes a nice voltage spike when you rap it. The wiring seems OK, I haven't been able to test between the connector and the PCM. Anyone have a connector view for the 2.5l PCM? I know it's a white wire going into the PCM, but there's more than one white wire. The engine is also misfiring bad. It snapped out of it once, ran perfect, advanced timing, and didn't misfire, and then went back to running bad. I just resealed the engine and installed a new timing belt. The marks are lined up, I checked 3 times, and my dad checked once, they're dead on. The Idle air control motor is sticking. When you start it, it goes to 2k rpm, then does a sudden jump to 1k where it will idle. If you put it in drive or kick the A/C on, it almost stalls. I think it's just gunk built up in it, so I'm going to use carb cleaner to try and free it. I've got untill tomorrow morning to get it running right for it's salvage inspection. I'm also taking college finals at the same time, so the pressure's on.

I've seen this problem with two other legacys. Mine, an EJ22 swap, and Konrad's, a stock legacy. Both idle fine, adjust for load, obviously the Idle air is working, but the ECU throws a code occasionally. I'd try cleaning the MAF sensor, mabe the computer is looking for a change in the MAF reading in response to changes it makes in the IAC?

Oil on the timing belt also dramatically reduces it's life. If you have the 2.5l, it's interference, so if the belt snaps your up for a valve job at the minimum.

Last time I did it, EA82 car, I took the cluster out of the dash, unpluged the cable, duct taped a piece of strong string to it, and pulled it through the firewall. Duct taped the string to the new cable, and pulled it back through.

Why not swap this into the RX? The 2 row rad should work fine. I have an old stock single row with an electric fan half-ased onto it that only pulls through a third of the radiator, and my EJ22 doesn't overheat doing hard off-roading.

Rotate all the camshalfts so that they turn freely, no spring tension on them, and spin the crank with the breaker bar. If you hear air wooshing past any of the valves, it's teardown time.

Cause your too lazy to unbolt it and the skid plate to get it out. It really doesn't make much of a difference, but it helps a bit, so I'd like to keep it. Chasmataz, same size tires as me. Do yours rub on the framerail at full lock?

Are we taking bets on how long the front halfshalfs last? I bid 1 month.....Anybody go for 2? Looks nice though.

Yep, been there done that, have grease spray to prove it. If the bearings already loose, greasing it won't help much.

25 year production run on the chevy 305, 3 year run on the chevy 302. 48 year run on the ford 302. See where my mistake came from? But hey, learn something every day.

When compressing the tensioner, follow the directions perfectly. Don't hurry the process at all, it will blow the internal seal. When buying a new tensioner assembly after doing the above wrong, buy it off the web. The parts stores will give you the pulley+tensioner kit for the 1996-97 kit, which doesn't fit.

I fixed my heat. The fan had turned into a mouse nest centerfuge, and wasn't pumping much air. Much better now, but it still can't match the Honda Heat (which will roast you out of the car if you aren't careful.

I'm getting a warm fuzzy feeling at having given correct directions to fix a car hundreds of miles away. These cars handle soo much better in 4wd, it's not even funny.

Weight. Find a way to hold up the front end with the V8 in it before you do much else. Oh, and BTW, a 302 is a SBF, a 305 is a SBC. Seriously, there are plenty of perfectly good american cars from the 80's that came with v8's in them that can smoke just as much tire., and probably for longer without the rear end grenading. I don't see the point. Stick the V8 in a Volvo, at least then other people wouldn't see it coming. Here's grandma in her old 240.... Wholly Shiz!! it's whippin nuts!

Once I get new bushings for the links, I'll hook it back up. I do more street driving than offroading, so.. I'd prefer to have it. It doesn't handle that bad without it though.

If you disconnect the front swaybar on an EA82, either remove the whole thing, or spring it under the control arms. Don't just leave it in there with the links off. It can catch the E=brake cable, and when you turn, it pulls the cable and applies the brake on that wheel. Pretty confusing when it happens the first time.

#1 don't use threaded rod. The stuff sucks. I used the bolts that used to hold the crossmember in, if you lifted the car, you don't need them anyway. Cut them to length, weld them together with a bit of space in between, and you're good. You have to adjust them a bit with a grinder so that they are "clocked" right when you thread them into the block. They do not need to be tight when they go in to the block, and the adapter plate holds them from turning. When you tighten down the nut on the tranny side, it preloads those threads plenty. I'm looking into having the CAD students at my school convert the plans that my dad made up for the machining. The plans he made are perfect, I mean the plate clicks into place on top of the dowel pins and bolts. The dowel pins are pretty crucial to the line up. Without them, you will always have some sort of preload on the tranny input shaft. Will the rest of the car last long enought that the tranny would become a problem though?

Part #, store and how much?