WoodsWagon

I'd look at a torque converter lockup problem more than an AWD problem. I'm also verry disapointed that this thread didn't include a legacy doing 60mph jumps.

Thats a consideration if you're running open headers or no headers. If you have the cat on there, I would think you have enough back pressure.

YES!

Will the rear door actuator fit in the front door?

An aftermarket replacement from a parts store intended for the legacy should be fine. Just make sure that "performance" isn't anywhere on the label. In my book, subaru's should be quiet, or they should have NO cat back exhaust. When they're quiet, you don't bother anyone, and you leave a positive impression behind. When the exhaust stops after the cat, dam they sound mean. The EJ22 sounds like a V8 at idle, a nice blub blub sound, and when you hammer on it, it just ripps. Nice crackle on decel too.

For other cars, the filter in the tranny is a filter, and it gets clogged over time. In the subaru's the mesh in the tranny is big enough that it won't clog, and the spin on filter on the side does the actual filtering. There's no reason to drop the pan. Do not leave the drain plug out and start the engine to try and drain the torque converter that way. BAD Idea.

The carb pumps seem to make less noise than the SPFI ones. Less pressure, so mabe less noise? Aluminum wiring was hot back in the 70's I think. Lead to a bunch of trailer home fires. The aluminum would expand more than the steel screws used at switches and outlets, and would work it's self loose. Resistance at the connection would go up, more heat would be created, and eventually it would catch fire.

If the EGR system is causing detonation, there has to be a leak to the atmosphere in it. The exhaust gas it pulls into the intake is pre-burned. Inert for the most part. This is why it doesn't matter if it's metered or not, it doesn't lean out or enrich the mixture. All it does is take up space. NOx is the biggest contributor to smog. Ever been to SoCal? It reacts with the air to form the haze. NOx is formed by the nitrogen in the air that the engine pulls in combining with the O2 in the air. It only does this at high temperatures. So go ahead and yank it. It's not a miracle performance increaser, or a detriment to the engine. But do realize that you are helping F**k the air for everyone else.

I'm pretty sure the carb cars had a reed switch in the spedo, even if they didn't use it. The car can get real pissy without it. Bogging when you floor it, having to tease the engine up to speed when you're accelreating, that kind of annoying BS. Not having a neutral switch can make it stall. The clutch switch is actually used by the ECU. I have a jumper stuffed in mine, and it throws a code for the switch circuit. I wonder if it uses it for adjusting spark on startup?

The best way to tell what year a car is is to look at the emissions sticker under the hood. It will say: This vehicle complies with the EPA specifiacations for 19XX model year vehicles. That only works if it's the origional hood though.

For rims the best ones I have found yet are dodge D-50/mitubishi truck rims. My BFG All-terrains are within a pinky with of the spring mount, so perfect fit. The chevy's did look cool though, they stuck out a couple inches to the sides, looked mean.

I'll say that it's not worth fixing rust soo bad a trooper noticed it. I've been west, and I have witnessed the miracle of non-rusty subarus. It would be way easier and faster to get a car from the west and drive it home. you don't have to go all the way to Cali to get a car, there's a few rust-free states this side of the rockies. Plan 3 days to get home after pickup, and bring tools.

The 4wd will not cause any problems if you put the selector in FrontWD before you tow it.

There should be two solenoid valves for the vacuum feed between the firewall and the left front strut tower. These solenoids are controlled by the switch on the shifter. The solenoids then direct vacuum to one side or the other of the vacuum diaphram on the side of the tranny. Take out the spare tire, look down alongside the side of the tranny, and you will see a 5" diameter can with a cable sticking out of it. Two vacuum hoses should come off of the can. This is the diaphram. Hook a vacuum line straight from the white plastic vacuum resavaur on the passenger side of the firewall to one side of the diaphram. One side will put it in 4wd, the other in 2wd. That will verify that the mechanical side of the drivetrain is working.

You've been spending too much time in the EJxx series cars! If it's 4door, it's not a coupe.

I'm looking at a sandrail that uses VW running gear. It's missing a lot of things, including the engine, but the tranny is there. It looked like it might have had a torque converter, but it has some vacuum operated lever thingy by the bellhousing. It also has the shifter stub sticking out of the front of it. WTF is this tranny? Should I ditch it for the regular manual out of a bug? I took some pics of the sandrail, click on the thumbs to get bigger.

I've caused more carnage than most and that's mostly on the street. I'm not welded and I still blow things out. Mabe people should also list their tire size and type? Destroyed: 1 rear diff. grenaded, spider gears stripped, crosshaft shattered, carrier split. 2 driveshafts blew the U-joints out of both of em. 3 front CV's on one side. 1 dual range tranny, smoked final drive. Nothing but ping...ping...ping in any gear. And that's just this year. I'm running 234/75r15 BFG all terrains with an EJ22 on the other end. The torque exerted on both ends of the drivetrain determines it's relaiability.

On my 92 leg wiring harness, the green and black connectors are very different. You couldn't cross-connect the colors. The greens put it in the diagnostic mode and spit out codes while you're driving the car. The blacks do something, I forget what, but I don't mess with them. I have to say that the diagnostic mode is a pretty good default. I'm using it now to run my car, and other than a crackle in the exhaust on coast or decel, it runs great.

Brand new engine and you're already beating on it. Can't say I haven't done the same. Threw an engine in after full rebuild, then drove 2,500 miles the next week. Good luck with that, and I'm serious too. Take it to a dyno before you blow it up to get some good #'s

If you line the headliner with tinfoil, the signals will get confused and the car won't rust.

I have a touring wagon. complete rustbucket, but I may cut the roof off to put on my car eventually. I have the D/R tranny out of another touring wagon in my loyale. Piece by piece, I'll turn my loyale into a touring wagon. The last guy to ride in the back seat did tag his head on the roof, so the extra 2" might save some neck pain.

A clutch fan is better than a direct drive fan. If you put a direct drive fan on your car your MPG WILL DECREASE. A fan pulls like 5hp when the engine is running at working speed. The point of a clutch fan is to disengage that load when it isn't needed, increasing gas mpg.

Packing heavy gauge steel wool in then clamping seems to work great. On my car, i'm using twisted baling wire to hold them on, but they rattle anywase. It really doesn't matter much, everything else on the car makes noise, why shouldn't the exhaust?

couple of #2 phillips screwdrivers come in handy too. One long and and one stubby to get the screws out above the insturment cluster.

Money wise? Parting it out? Or fixing it back up?