WoodsWagon

My second axel started going that way. Boot had torn, grease had spun out, and the joint started to seize. It made it 2,000 miles home before it started to seize. Pulled off the highway, packed it full of wheel bearing grease, and it made it till the begining of fall. It's amazing how much the outer joint can yank the wheel around.

Colorado = altitude. The turbo motor may have a larger advantage over the N/A one than you think.

What makes the pistons so loose in the first gen 2.5's? The one I'm resealing knocked pretty bad when we did the quick runs to move it into the garage. All the bearings seem fine, no slack, but you can rock the pistons in their bores a lot. pushing on one side, then the other, good shift and click. I didn't have the time to pull the pistons and measure the skirts, but wow that's a lot of movement.

There's also a rubber plug in the backing plate that lets you stick a screwdriver in to release the self adjuster. Just stick it in and poke, there's a ratchet on a quaderant style adjuster in there. If you back the shoes off, the drum should come off.

Hate to ask this, but did whoever did it know enough to pack the bearing full of grease?

At my junkyard of choice, the owner lets me flip the cars over if I need crossmembers and whatnot from underneath. makes it a lot easier to remove. You'll need to pull the steering rack out of the crossmember, rip the exhaust off, and undo the two engine mount bolts and the 4 crossmember bolts.

Except for ported vacuum, which comes off of the TB right by the plate. Ported vacuum was a big thing in the carb and vacuum advance disty days.

It's behind the fandangler brace on the EA82 body cars.

Mine isn't great. I assume that it's a bit plugged, but I've never got around to flushing it. I also know that the evaporator is a bit caked with mouse nest stuff, so the airflow isn't great either. I'm getting used to wearing a coat.

In any industry there are people who know what they are talking about, there are people who know they don't know about it, and are asking, and there are people who don't really know about it but want other people to believe they do. Car salesmen are easy examples. When they know everything about the car they are selling, they can do a good job of advising what the customer should buy. When they only know the surface specs, they will make stuff up that sounds good to the customer to convince them that they are buying from someone knowlegable. I had this from a subaru salesman claiming that 200X was the first time Legacy's had ever been offered as turbo's. He didn't even know what horizontally opposed engines looked like. His job was to con us into buying something he knew nothing about. The problem is that at first glance they look legitamate. You don't find out you were had untill later. I have tried ignoring Bgd7, but he doesn't go away. Enough people try and help that he has an audience and stays around. I have tried my best to keep my statement's calm and factual. I figured I might be banned for my comments, but I thought the risk was worth it to try and improve the board. This is all I have to say on the matter.

No. People are ignorant. Standing by and watching them be lead down the obviously wrong path is wrong.

That's actually a lot of fun in the early legacy's:burnout: Sounds like you got a very gently driven car. I wouldn't call it well cared for... but it must have held up well to last this long.

I've got a 4" BYB lift in my loyale. See my review in the Product Review section of the market place. Driveability is a little wierd with the stock tires on. Once you have the bigger tires and rims on, the car drives normaly. I could keep up with a legacy absolutely rippin up the back roads with my wagon. A lifted subaru is nothing like a lifted truck. However you do your lift, pay close attention to where the strut rods mount to the floorpans. It's THE weak point, and it's a PITA to repair once it tears.

And painting it wil reinforce it to the point that it's solved? All the metal expands or shrinks at the same percentage, so no stress based on atmospheric temps. Don't think about bgd's "right to free speach", which is a right not honored on this board and has been justified before. This board is a resource for people who want to fix their cars. As members, it's our responsibility to provide good information. Bgd works on the pricipal that he's a misunderstood genius. People belive his statements because they make some sense and are confusing. The people come with questions because they are already mystified. By using confusing language, he puts himself forward as a "priest" in the art of car repair. People assume he's just talking above their experience level and belive what he says. When they follow the advise and end up worse off, it's not just him they don't believe in the future. By spreading misinformation, he's tarnishing the validity of the advise that the rest of us share.

Use cardboard for where you're crawling around under the car. Really helps take the pointyness out of the gravel.

I took a quick tour of your website. You remind me very much of Butch, my high school janitor. He believed in all sorts of crackpot technologies and aliens too. Dead serious when he was talking about more efficient than perpetual motion generators. Seeing as you don't have a problem pirating pictures off the USMB for your website, I'll do some quick copy and paste from yours. The alkalinic stuff on the wheel stud showed up a week or so after painting. The paint conquered what I knew was happening. It takes years to do strange things like this, sometimes not even metal fatigue is the cause. The paint also kept rotors ,hubs, bearings and axles cooler, of course increasing strength to keep straight wheels, rotors and hubs, increasing the life of everything attached. What I have learned with this, can be applied to any vehicle with steel wheels, diesel, gas, little to big. It can happen to all of them Battery cable to starter is unregulated. Everything that battery you have has got is given to the starter when you turn the key, or however some of you may be starting the car. I just swapped a large battery out on soob #3 (my 87), and got same results as the other two. The correct battery stops the brushes in the starter from getting too much. Too much is a "bleed" of electricity into inefficient, actually taking away the motion the engine wants to turn, hence actually slowing it down. Another problem is the charge system itself. The alternator is designed for a certain amount of give for the power expected to be drained, with engineered numbers I have never exactly figured out. The correct Amps from battery size, returns a correct charge Tough paint equals tougher steel. Some do not like this approach, but where I live, even adding a few rivets to a 4wd wagon was a tremendous strengthener. To add tough paint all over makes a different car entirely. As an example, if the spark plugs on your carbed ea82 at 9 to 1 were to be installed without washers (not recommended) , the carbed engine could very well have a higher compression ratio than an spfi ea82 at 9.5 to 1. 90% of the above copy and pasted material is complete BS. Oh, and front quarter panel's don't change allignment throught the strength in their forming. Please DO leave. The misinformation you spread reduces the validity and value of the real information other's provide. This forum is for helping and educating people, not confusing the heck out of them.

I'm using 86 3-door fenders on my 1992 wagon, so the years are fairly compatable. Yes, trim doesn't match, but I never cared much. The older bumpers aren't impact absorbing, but the car's look way better with them on. Takes away the fat lip look that later ones have.

Mitsu************si's suck soo bad. I'm sorry, but when the bellhousing fractures off the tranny on a stock car, something's wrong. POS eclipse to the max. Even the pontiac grand am was better than that thing.

I've used a split flange before. It's still working 10k miles later.

I have to argue with you on this point. the z motor in those trucks isn't half bad. I found one in the woods that had hit so many trees that the radiator was literally wrapped around the block, the stubby ends of the plastic fan was sticking out the front of the truck. So-no coolant, no water pump and I can't belive it was still holding oil. The control arms were bent on both sides, but it was still 4wd. The owner brought a battery out and jumped it, fired right up, and drove it's self the rest of the way out of the woods. Ran it for another week around the property without any coolant. Pretty much the same motor in the Hardbody's, except fulie. We could wind the snot out of it doing burnouts and it still ran fine afterwards. I have respect for the z motors.

Haahahah! A collectors value for a loyale!

He musta been coasting to be getting 40mpg! Got any pictures of the stuffed wheel?

Continuous Injection System. VW/audi used it. It's based on fuel pressure varying across an injector port. The more air flowing into the engine, the higher the fuel pressure goes. Uses a flapper style plate in the intake to measure the air. Easily recognisable by the braided stainless lines running to each of the injectors.

Honda makes a few two door civic hatches....

Does it really matter how many doors it has when there's 300hp under the hood pre-modification? Why does it have to be brand new? I totally support you feeding the used car market, but it seems a waste of cash.