WoodsWagon

The heatshield on the cat does help, so if it's missing that could be part of the problem. I've had a bad run of boots lately, all on used axels. I feel your pain.

You're in maine. I'm sorry, but any winter you have there isn't extreem. We have a number of canadian guys running around, and a lot of them aren't near the coast, so no gulf stream effect. They don't complain about their subies warping in the winter. So yes, I think you're stupid to belive that the molecular structure of the steel is altered so much by the cold that it warps. Explain to me why loaders built in the midwest work fine down in antartica. The extreem winter there would warp the parts soo bad there that the loaders wouldn't move acording to you. I thought that you were saying it was the "invisibles" that were corroding your subaru's, not the cold. Or that nasty salt that maine's highway departments like to use. Wasn't the rear driveshaft the balancing thing that made the power flow to the ground better than the lack of one in your two wheel drive cars? Didn't you have some crackpot theory about that? Now you're complaining that it wobbles the car? Seriously, you spread nonsense theories around the board like they were gospel. It's confusing to people who don't know enough to ignore you. If something seems like a new "discovery" to you, don't bother posting it. I usually try not to be a jerk, but I've watched your threads for too long and it's gone too far.

This is crazy talk. The only thing remotely related is too thick oil and grease. take the rear driveshaft out, from the carrier bearing to the diff. it's 8 12mm nuts, not too hard. then swivel each joint independently. feel for any catches or binding. Why throw $100 worth of parts and a lot of labor at something you only *think* is the problem. Take the extra time to track the problem down. It's worth the savings.

The gasket drops over the two hollow pins that locate the head, so there's no putting it on crooked. The bore's match, so it's a 2.5L gasket. It sucks soo bad to put hours into assembling it to find that your work was worthless. Hey, at least I didn't put it back in the car and find out then.

The U-joints in the rear driveshaft can get stiff and make noise and vibration. You know the rear subframe from your 2wd will bolt right up? Get rid of all that stupid heavy, wobbly 4wd junk. Try swaping the wheels out with spare ones and see if the noise goes away. You know, basic diagnosis of where the noise is from.

I installed the new headgaskets on the 2.5l last night. Heads have been shaved, block deck cleaned up, everything perfectly clean. Layed the gasket on, carefully placed the head on the pins, and torqued it down following the 25ftlb, 51ftlb, loosen 360 degrees, 25ftlb on center two, 11 ftlb on outer four, then 2x 90degree in sequence. That makes it real f'n tight. I put some oil in the pan and handcranked the engine till oil came out around the camshafts. Looked it over, and oil is seeping out of the head gasket right where the oil gallery goes through. WTF? It was perfectly clean and smooth, I torqued it down, and it leaks? Looks like it's leaking through the gasket, not around it. It was a multi layer steel gasket by Rock gaskets. round a $45 gasket.

When I did my EJ22 swap. I disturbed a lot of the wiring under the dash. My passenger side light was dim, but did both high and low. It was the relay under the dash, it had slipped out of it's socket. I didn't find out till it fell out on my feet. Check the relays, I almost gaurentee that's what it is.

one of the bolts that holds in the blower motor holds in this blsck box thingy that also has two more screws holding it in. This is the resistor block. The coils often break.

Check the jack and jack handle as well.

Hydro lifters in the DOHC 2.5l? Mine are solid buckets with shims.

Just by driving on the freeway at any speed, you're a danger to yourself and those around you. Doesn't matter if parts are breaking or not. I'll try pounding the spline back in, mabe with some JB weld on 'em for good measure.

Whelp, got the hood up after bending my nice headlight loop forward. The coolant resevaur tank sheared off it's mount, and the battery slid into the back of the headlight. The framerail crumpled pretty good, but all in the front. Ignorable, but I'll have the guys in the body shop give it a tug. They like a good challenge. Next time I have the engine out, I'll weld a plate in there. Ahh well. My chest pain's mostly gone, which is good. The only thing I signed was the ambulance service release. Like hell I wanted transport.

All I saw was the corner of a mud tire. We need a side shot! Will you get enough flow for the radiator through those 2 ducts? what kinda fan are you strapping on it?

Rearended a lady in a new ranger. stuffed her bumper and dinged the tailgate and bed. She was fine for the first 10minutes, then when the EMT's showed up she had neck pain . The ranger had bucket seats with integral headrests, so I have a hard time seing as how she got whiplash. You know how that goes. She went to the hospital in an ambulance, I refused transport. It was at a merge with a 4lane road. There was one car coming in the farthest lane, the lane you merge into was clear. I thought that she would merge in, and wasn't paying attention to her. I was looking left to see if there was more traffic coming when I hit her. 15mph ish, clutch in, didn't see her till I tagged her. Totally my fault, the police said it happens all the time at this intersection, and didn't cite me for anything. The bumper got pushed back, the frame on the drivers side crumpled some, and my headlight protecor loop clamped my hood shut. The winch crushed in the hood latch. Radiator seemed fine. The cop said that the bumper saved the car. Biggest recolection was a bang and lots of dust in my car. I was wearing my seatbelt, otherwise I woulda cracked the windshield. Feels like somebody kicked me in the chest. I'll get pics up tomorrow.

It was an axle that I pulled out of a junk car. The car had 2 different axels, one with smaller outer cup, and one with a bigger one. I chose to use the bigger one. It looked fine when it went in, but... I thought that the outer joint was kinda permanently installed on the halfshaft. I also don't get where the force to pull it out came from. My other front axel was already broken, so there was virtually no torque going through it when it failed.

The only thing holding you back now is how clean that wagon is! Let me tell you, even stock with bald tires, those things kick butt on the trails. I tested out my $75 donor mobile before I pulled the engine. Lots of dents and dings, but it could drag it's self over anything.

The only valid test in that video is the hillclimb. The other tests had so many variables in them that they were pointless. Different tires, purposefully agresssive "profesional" drivers, differing speeds, all could have contirubuted to the results. The narrator was "leading the witness" with his comments on ride quality. I couldn't see a difference in how the compared vehicles bounced.

The inner cv joint comes off of the halfshaft splines. The halfshafts might match while the splines on the trannys don't. there's a little circlip that holds on the center of the CV joint on to the shaft.

Usually when my front cv's blow apart the cage shatters and the ball bearings pop out. This time, the spline that the outer cv joint is on pulled out of the center star thingy. I thought the outer cv was pressed onto the halfshaft. I just put this axel in last monday, so having it come apart so fast is frustrating How the heck did it come apart like this without the inner CV overextending first?

My Ej doesn't have any problem with water except for the alt belt. It will squeel during and after water crossings. The only problem I've ever had with water is that hydrolocking thing. It's never caused electrical issues for me. Mikeshoup- it sounds like whoever worked on the legacy after was just throwing parts at it till it ran.

IT's a 2wd with power steering. The seats are junk, the drivers door is rusty, the passengers not so bad I'm not grabbing stuff like the grill and hood, they're not coupe specific, so I'm not bothering. I can't get the weatherstripping for the rear windows because its power windows and no battery. I could break the windows?

I really couldn't say other than bluish mabe? Drivers seat was gone, but the rest of the interior was there. kinda neat looking cars, a bit like a beamer. A list would be awesome. I'd need it by saturday morning.

Destruction of federal property! catch the mofo

Just list anything coupe specific i should grab, yes to resell.

what should I grab from a 1981 coupe that just showed up in the JY? It has a taller center armrest with the power window switches in it, it that the "hi-rise"console?