WoodsWagon
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Nonstarting issue... EA82 SPFI
WoodsWagon replied to Caboobaroo's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Pour Some Gas Down It! Please! -
ahhh omg coolant everwhere
WoodsWagon replied to Prospeeder's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
7k isn't a bad thing, just don't make a practice of it. Sometimes hoses can split, they look normal untill you squeeze them and then the split opens up. That much coolant that fast sounds like a hose. Fill it up from a garden hose untill you find the hole. Drain it, fix it, and filler up with coolant. -
I don't think that the death certificate has been issued. Headgasket leaking externally? what is it leaking, oil or coolant? Is the water pump growling and leaking? Rear caliper could be junkyard sourced. Wheel bearings aren't that expensive. How fast is the tranny leaking? I'd keep what you have through the winter, then buy a cheaper subie in the spring when AWD isn't such a big selling point.
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As someone who drives a civic si hatch (93) with a 1.6L engine and a 1995 legacy wagon with a 2.2L engine, I can say without doubt that the civic would spank the legacy no problem. Civic's don't wheel too bad either:brow: . Heck, my mom's ford taurus (93) 3.0 with an auto might pull on the subaru with it floored. I never knew how much the taurus could pull before it got totaled again. It's a miracle it's tranny made it this far (212k), because we babied it. Now it doesn't matter, I can hold it floored, and it moves! I don't know what happened with the subaru engines. The EJ22 in the 1st Gen legacy's is bichin, but it kinda loafs in the 2nd gen legacys.
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6 lug wheels, what width/offset?
WoodsWagon replied to ea82tdo4's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Wheels off of a mitsubiti/Dodge D50 look nice, and are a pretty good offset. Tucks in more than the chevy rims. -
I've been known to jump on the breaker bar with the car on the ground. I just hold onto the roof rack (wagon) and jump on the bar. 250# jumping usually breaks it loose. I use a 3/4" breaker bar with a 1/2" adapter on it.
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Yes! The oil in the bearings is only to stop it from rusting. You have to use brake clean to take out the oil and pack it with hi-temp wheel bearing grease. The white plastic thingy is only to hold it together while it's shipped. Press in the bearing race, the big outer part, then put in the inner wheel bearing, put the seal and nut in on the inside, stake it once it's tight, then put the axel in and put the outer wheel bearing in, Pull the axel through using the nut and various spacers to push on the bearing right next to the axel shaft it's self. Do not pull it through by bracing against the housing. Once your finished, put the inner seal on, put the brakes back together, and torque everything down.
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Time for EVEN MORE power!
WoodsWagon replied to Steveman09's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Looks like an EA82 to me. Water pump on left bank, oil pump center and lower. Clearcoat that bad boy before you get any grease on it. Hi-temp clearcoat. -
I've seen carbed ones with push button. I had a carbed one with dual range. I swaped that tranny into my loyale (spfi) and had the neutral switch issue. I ignored the MIL, cause I was swapping to the EJ22 soon anyways. Dual range bolts right up, the screws that hold down the shifter boot plate may be rusty, be careful.
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Who would give up on this one?
WoodsWagon replied to bgd73's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Aluminum + steel rivits = corrosion. paint all of it from inside the wheel well, the spray with undercoating. Checked the other side yet? Nice job putting in the patch though. -
The two pin one has to be hooked to the ECU. If it fails hard, it will throw the fans on all the time. If it gets sketchy, the computer won't be able to tell.
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I can't read the diagram, too small. Have you taken apart any connectors and reconnected them lately? Or had any work that could involve that done? Sometimes a pin can fold over in the connector and short to power. The motor is getting it's power through the ABS fuse, so you know that it's a problem in only the ABS harnesses.
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Check the thermostat if it's taking forever to warm up. A block heater might be cheap and easy too. Put it on a timed socket.
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The battery was probably disconected when the engine work was done. This will erase what the car's computer has "learned" and will reduce power and efficiency untill it relearns the engine's charactaristics. Drive the car normaly, and it will come back. The carbon build up in the engine may have raised compression, leading to higher efficiency. There are certain driving patterns that will speed up the relearning process.
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Less of a mess with the TC left on the tranny. The car is really nice other than the engine. I cleaned it up a bit while I was waiting for the gas fumes to get sucked out of the pit. You know how there's a shift interlock on auto's? Well, I needed to roll it out of the garage, and it doesn't have a convienient emergency release for the shifter, so I hooked the battery charger up to the car. Turned the key on, popped it in neutral, and wondered "what's that running water sound?" Well, it was more of a running GAS sound. I had forgotten that I had pulled the manifold and left the fuel line hanging. Only made a 4x5 foot puddle. Pulled the battery charger, turned off the propane heater, and shut off all the power in the garage. By far, the stupidest mistake I've made working on a car.
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a few questions for those of you running strut lifts on EJ cars...
WoodsWagon replied to Snowman's topic in Off Road
95 legacy brighton. Outback wagon struts, origional Brighton springs. Gained about an inch and a half, same size tires. No cv issues yet. Installed smoothly. Drives normal on the highway.