WoodsWagon

my tires are 20% larger than stock, so they cover more ground per rotation than the origionals. All the spedometer measures is the number of rotations per minute each axel makes. The larger the tire, the lower the spedometer reads realtative to the same ground speed. My spedo reads 10 under, more at higher speeds. Really easy to get in trouble.

Run bigger tires. I've noticed lots of legacy's 95+ read about 5 under. If you up the tires size, you will bring the car's speed up to what the spedo reads AND you'll be getting more ground clearance.

What's wrong with the RX platform? How is a 2wd auto better?

I found a legacy with a rear diff that had cooling finns all over the cover. Does this mean that it's a viscous LSD? or just a normal open one?

The VSS is easy. I pulled the insrument cluster, then spliced labled wire to the tach, VSS, coolant temp, and oil pressure gauges. The vss and tach tie right into the PCM.

pick up a pusher fan from a junk saab 9000 from the mid 90's. I have one running backwards (not as efficient) and it fits in the engine side OK. They would work awesome pushing from the front, and it should fit fine. I just have a winch in the way in the front.

6,000 since early august when it went in. Problems: Burning lots of oil, my fault, I screwed up rebuilding the motor. That and it's a lot easier to abuse the snots out of the rest of the car. Something about having the front of the car lift in response to the gas pedal is satisfying. I have occasional CEL's tripping, but that has to do with my new 02 sensor drowning in oil. 1qt a week is bad news.

Why do you need to find the fuse?

Put my spare diff in, had to use the stubs from the blown diff, I couldn't for the life of me get the stubs to come out of the axel cups on the spare diff. No more burnouts on big tires with old rear shocks. I can't get the axels on or off without dropping the diff. I thought that you could get enough slack by jacking the body up till a wheel was off the ground?

The cheapest legacy wagon we've found so far is a 1996 with 171k for $3.5k, so... I'm not sure we can get better for the money. I'll talk to the guy tomorrow.

Rusted rockers are fixable, but once that area in the second pic goes, it's done. It's really not worth pouring in all the effort into it only to have it rust off in another area. It's not safe anymore. Go west and find a nice one. They've got rust free 70's ones out there.

I'm running in NWD right now! But yes, it was RWD before it blew.

We didn't trust the threads to hold in the aluminum plate, so by making siamesed holes and the step-studs, it has good strength. Had to do some careful grinding of the studs so that the overlap would fit in the thickness of the adapter plate.

It didn't look to bad, but then I'm used to the damage my Loyale sustains in the woods. I can get another engine with a toasted headgasket for 100 complete. I should be able to build one good one out of 2 bad ones. Right at the beginning of winter is a bad time for finding cheap subies.

Differential carnage! Blew the snots out of my rear diff. I had noticed it had been whining, and I don't think the oil was ever changed in the 160k miles. Spun a wheel on dirt, it caught the pavement and hopped, then PING! The shattered pieces got stuck in the ring gear, I had to push the car backwards to free it. I nursed it home 2 miles before it completely stipped, Real nasty noises, and it locked twice. Had to be towed the last 1/2 mile. Took it out, took it apart, shredded the teeth off of 3 of the spider gears, only 1 tooth off of the 4th. Dented the pinion up good, and snapped the Spider gear cross shaft into 3 pieces. The carrier cracked where the cross shaft used to go through. The oil was all sparkly from metal shavings, and the magnetic plug had a forest growing off of it. Whoops. glad I have a spare.

I've been spending a lot of time playing with diff's tonight, and the thougt struck me. Do the people who run Divorced cases use two 4.11 legacy diffs front and rear? It would make sense.

As long as your not a moron about it and don't go flooring it, it won't jump the jacks. Make sure the E-brake's on. I've done it with my dad's legacy 5 speed. It was to prove a point to myself in reference to a thread saying that the AWD car's would get stuck if they had one wheel in the air (they will if your on a hard hill) you don't seem to belive what multiple people have written here, why believe what one person wrote in a manual?

Take a permanent marker, go out to the car, and change the lable for the FWD fuse to RWD. Presto! the car is now a RWD car if you put the fuse in. At least it should be in your imagination. Jack up the front wheels, put the E-brake on hard. Leave the FWD fuse out and make the engine turn the front wheels. Now, put the FWD fuse in and repeat, it will behave the same. It's a limited slip diff in the middle, so the wheels with the least traction, the one's in the air, will spin, and the back one's won't move. That's normal.

You have a clutch pedal, right? Your not calling the auto with slapshift "stick" are you? Cause if it's a manual tranny, you can stick a fuse anywhere and it's not going to change the way it works.

You aren't over riding anything. The fuse box is probably common to auto's and manuals, hence the spot for FWD. Go whip some nuts in the dirt. then put the FWD fuse in and do it again. It will whip nuts exactly the same.

for once, I have to agree with Manerius. The manual tranny has a differential between the front axel feed and the rear axel feed just like the axel's have a diff between the two wheels. The only sensors on the tranny are for neutral, reverse, and speed. The only input is that lever sticking out of the middle of the center console. The sti tranny is a very different animal. The tranny in the Baja is a design dating back to 1989, when the first legacy's were released. Oh, and for burnouts? You better believe the 2.5l has the power for burnouts. I crank them out with the 2.2, with way oversized tires.

My way of looking at it is when I'm finished, I'll have a car with 1k worth of new parts in it. If you bought a good one off the street, you'd have 4k worth of 10 year old parts. But, I'm buying the car for my mother with her money... And she likes to test drive things, which isn't possible with the motor in this state.

Walkaway price is likely to be close to asking. The guy has the fire repair work and the radiator above what he paid for it at auction. I don't think he has much wiggle room. His plan is to rebuild the moter and sell it for $5k, which with winter coming is doable. I think that for $3k including parts, We could have a decent car.

The offroading looked to be a one time event. The dried mud was still stuck in the fresh dents. I think it was the last trip before it went to auction. There were starbursts melted under the back seat, as well as young child toy packaging found in various parts of the interior. These kinda point to the previous owners being parents, with young kids, and unlikely to beat on the car. Mabe the guys at the aution house went hotdogging in the car? I'm proficcient at tearing into the engine. I also have a good used parts source. The car is fairly loaded, CD, AC, Power everything except seats, cruise.