WoodsWagon

2002 outback doesn't have a MAF sensor, they're speed density. A failed coolant temp sensor could cause this. Do the radiator fans run constantly?

Why do you want the xt-6 transmission in a brat?

Just change the fluid in the pan every 20k miles and figure out where the 2 quarts went. Don't pour any additives or flushes in, they can easily do more harm than good depending on what's in them. If it isn't leaking out of the body of the transmission, check the level in the front differential. If that's way high, you know where the ATF went. More likely is the vacuum modulator. If it leaks, the ATF gets sucked into the engine through the vacuum line and burnt. Check the inside of the vacuum line for oil. Are the CV axles making noise? It's often better to re-boot the stock axles than run aftermarket ones. The factory axles are miles better in quality than anything you can buy for these cars from a parts store these days.

That looks like the same 97-99 DOHC EJ25 that would have come in the car originally. The only possible difference could be the timing belt tensioner setup, but everything else should be the same.

See if you can find a Speedi-sleeve to press over the end of the crank to provide a new surface for the seal to ride on. http://www.skf.com/group/products/seals/industrial-seals/power-transmission-seals/wear-sleeves/skf-speedi-sleeve/index.html The rear main seals can turn into a nightmare really easily on these engines and they rarely leak even after 300k miles so it's best to leave them alone if they aren't obviously pissing oil out. But in your case, that horse has left the barn.

The auto should be a 4eat, not the older 3at, so it's not as much of a bummer as you would think. Presslab on here has also converted his over to paddle shifters: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/90710-4eat-paddle-shifters/ I would switch over to an earlier 85-86 front bumper if it was my car, I can't stand the fat lip look of the later crash bumpers

You can pull out the two inner seals on a sealed bearing set so they still get lube inside from the hub but have additional protection from water getting in from the outside. I didn't find the sealed bearings lasted much longer than the non sealed, but I was in deep water a few times a week. It was pretty much a 6 month life expectancy on the front bearings, and yearly on the rears. I didn't run carpets in the car and had the drain holes open just as an example of how often it was sloshing. I drove it 50 miles a day 6 days a week plus the offroading.

Why all the irrelevant arguing over fuel pump wiring? Gloyale and Mikaleda, you're really doing nothing but adding confusion to a thread asked by a newbie who's not being helped at all by your relay debate. RisonM92: What makes you think the engine in your Loyale needs replacing or repair? Broken timing belts don't do any internal damage, it's a non-interference engine. They all leak oil, most of them have lifter tick, and the timing belts break if you don't do them every 60k, but they are dead reliable engines.You can abuse the hell out of them and they'll take it because they don't make enough power to hurt themselves. I have thrashed the spoob out of a bunch of them. The turbo EA82's are the junk ones. The extra heat, complexity, and component stress from the turbo pushes them over the edge. Edit: Ahh, I read one of your other threads on diagnosis. Could you keep to one thread instead of starting a bunch of separate ones? It sounds like your compression issues and starting issues are probably due to the stale gas left in the tank. It will gum up valve guides so the valves stick and don't fully close. I have had them stick so bad the rocker arms dropped out inside the head.

Honestly the single port heads are going to be your biggest choke point on power. The SPFI motors were 90hp, the MPFI spider intake dual port head engines in the xt's were 97hp. The wiring effort to change a spfi car to mpfi isn't worth it because you might as well do an EJ conversion at that point. But you might be able to use the dual port heads with a turbo intake manifold with the SPFI throttle body adapted to fit on it. That would get you some of the flow advantages 130hp is asking a lot out of a two valve bathtub combustion chamber head on a 1.8l engine. A more realistic target would be 105hp. That's still a 15% increase over stock.

Skip the rods and the forged pistons and just go straight to the water/meth injection. Without detonation and high egt's the stock parts will hold up to a lot of power. ea82t's are a disposable engine anyway, so go for massive power the cheap way and if it doesn't work, then build a fancy engine.

Put the 2.2l flexplate on the 2.5l engine and it will bolt right up.

Did you ask the guy who did the headgasket about it and show him your bucket of paper towel bits? If he was decent, the least he could offer is a 50k warranty on the engine. It's highly likely the rod bearings took a fair bit of damage, but they won't start knocking until they are really gone. On a non-turbo motor that can take a while.

Mileage on the engine has nothing to do with popping noises. I have an ej22 here with well over 300k on it and it runs great. One of the most resilient EJ22's I used came out of a postal legacy which had been in service delivering mail on a rural route for 16 years. Binding speedometer cable could be it. More likely it's a CV joint. I have had them start binding and making snap-crackle-pop noises on the highway, then once they cool off they work fine again. I would carefully check all the cv boots to look for small punctures where the grease could have gotten out

The later outbacks have a plug tucked in with the taillight harness that the tow lights plug into. Legacys of the same year do not. The 95 outback was more of a legacy than the later 96+ Outbacks, so it may not have the plug either. You do need a converter box to combine the separate turn signal and brake lights into one bulb for the trailer.

The 3.0 from the outback will probably fit a lot better than the 3.3 SVX motor would have. So you're starting with a good donor.

Plenty of VW buses and cars out there with subaru motors in the back and radiators in the front running just the stock pump and the stock thermostat. Just make sure you have a bleeder at the highest point in the system or it will be a PITA to get air bubbles out.

No, this is wrong. There is no egr vs non egr ECU or auto vs Manual ECU. They are all the same computer. There is a pin in the ECU connector that needs a wire going to ground to tell the ECU it is in a manual transmission car. With that wire grounded, the ECU knows that there is no TCU to talk to and no EGR to manage because no M/T cars had EGR. Figure out which pin that is, ground it, and that cures two of your codes. I would use the cooling fan control. It works well and if the engine coolant temp sensor fails, the ECU failsafes to running the fans continuously. Do you have a neutral switch and a clutch switch hooked up? The ECU will want to see those if it's a M/T. WIthout those you get stalling if you coast up to a stoplight and push the clutch in because it's still in decel fuel cut and doesn't get the pedal switch warning that it needs to start idling the engine.

50k miles on my dad's Legacy brighton with Outback struts on it and the CV boots are all still fine. I think they may be the factory axles even, it's got 170k miles on it.

You need a spring compressor to change out top hats. An impact gun is also really handy for spinning the nut off the shaft and back on. First gen leg your best bet is a 96-99 Legacy Outback strut. Use the first gen spring and top hat. You may need to make a spacer washer because the threads on the outback strut don't go down far enough for the nut to clamp the first gen top hat. Find a thick washer that fits the threads, then grind the outside diameter down so it fits down in the well of the top hat. Otherwise you get clunking on bumps. If you use the trailing arm brackets from a 96-99 outback it helps center the rear wheel in the wheel well better. The bracket is held to the body with 3 bolts and one bolt going through the trailing arm bushing. The E-brake cable bolts to it too. The outback brackets stick down farther, so the trailing arm is flatter and the hub moves back.

Marking front/rear tires doesn't work on an auto trans. The clutchpack is disengaged so the wheels will turn independently. Most new gen cars don't have a sticker on the rear diff to tell you the ratio, from the factory. So... the easiest way is to do what I explained. The transmission code sticker will give us the front diff ratio, and the counting the turns will give the rear diff ratio.

My first subaru was a hand-me-down 86 GL 3door coupe. It had died suddenly, and after trying all sorts of things to diagnose why the fuel pump wasn't turning on, my dad gave it to me. I pulled the distributor cap, cranked it over, and noticed the rotor stayed in the same place. $20 for a timing belt later, I had my first woods beater. The first thing to check on any EA82 that suddenly dies is the drivers side timing belt. The replacement interval was only 60k miles, and they rarely go much beyond that.

What is the transmission code sticker on the bellhousing right above the starter motor? Check the rear differential ratio by jacking one wheel off the ground, marking the driveshaft and tire, and counting how many turns of the wheel it takes to get the driveshaft to make two full turns. A ratio mismatch could easily be the source of the burnt clutchpack, and the diff's appear the same while the ratio inside can be different. It's also common for people to incorrectly replace the rear diff when they get the shuddering from the center clutchpack binding, so it could have a rear diff from who knows what in it and it would appear to be the right one until you physically count the turns.

The idler pulley has always been for the AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR belt on the EJ engines. Power steering and alternator are tensioned by moving the alternator.

No, but the belt v's in the crank pulley could be worn out. Since you replaced the other two pulleys I'd try that next. Make sure you tighten the crank bolt to spec after you replace the pulley. Pulleys usually only wear out if you drive in really dusty or muddy conditions all the time.

The ECU most definitely uses the VSS signal from the reed switch in the speedometer head. That's why it's setting a code when it's not receiving the signal it expects. As to what the ECU adjusts as far a fuel ratio and timing advance in response to the VSS signal, I do not know. Subaru was pretty good about the limp-home programming on those cars, they will run OK with most of the sensors unhooked.