WoodsWagon

Quick testament to the engines ruggedness- I know a kid who had an 89 station wagon. It had headgasket problems, bad enough that he had to add to the radiator every time he parked it. He got a camero (POS) and decided to beat the subi. They took it field beating and offroading, ran it mostly dry of coolant, thrashed the body, and called it a day. When they were finished, the engine was still running fine, so they decided to try and blow it up. 5 minutes worth of holding it floored in neutral, and the engine was still runing fine. They were able to drive the car over to the junkyard the next day with no problems. How many other (non subaru) engines can take a beating like that?

I used their motorcycle kit to repair the tank to a Honda three wheeler. Follow the directions carfully and try not to leave a puddle in a corner of the tank. I did, and when I shifted it to reposition the ventelation fan, the skin on the puddle broke and flakes of it spread all round the tank. It makes the inside of the tank a cool textured silver color. The stuff took a tank that would leak down with a fast drip to a perfectly fuel tight one. The kit even comes with some fiber cloth to cover larger holes. I'd go for it, it seems like a very good system.

My loyale boggs and goes slower if you shift at much lower than 4,500. When I'm having fun, I shift it round 5,500. With the Legacy, which is a beater so I'm always having fun, I shift when the engine sounds like a crotch rocket. I'd say probably close to 6k. I missed second once and the tach went way over redline, not sure how far, but it whipped way up.

The car is still sitting there..... And I'm still wondering. I'ts too low for me to look under, so I couldn't do a quick check.

sorry, I couldn't find the article. There is one on Autospeed.au but he used the EJ tranny. I need to know if the EJ flywheel and clutch will fit in the extra space provided by the adapter or if I would have to use the EA flywheel.

Anyone? I searched, but didn't find an answer. Will the EJ flywheel and clutch fit?

I just took the map lights out of my GL and installed them in my loyale. The swap was a breeze, mostly just screwing it together and a little bit of cutting. The bracket for the lights is there in the Loyale, even with predrilled holes. All you have to do is remove the trim on the drivers side A pillar on both cars, cut the hole in the headliner, disconnect the power wires from under the dash, and fish the wires through on the other car. There is even the appropriate connector for the power leads under the dash. It's an easy 20 minute job that makes a useful improvement to the car.

When you swap an EJ engine in and make an adapter plate to attach it to the EA82 transmission (manual, D/R), can you use the EJ flywheel and clutch or do you have to use the EA clutch and flywheel? I'd prefer to use the EJ clutch because it was meant to handle the power, and I just bought a cable clutch EJ22 car with this in mind for its future. If I can't use the clutch and flywheel, I might as well use the engine out of a trashed legacy (2wd auto) that my neighbor has. I'd have the engine out anyways, so i could helicoil the plug threads like it needs, and then just consider my legacy a $75 spare.

How could an engine that is now 20hp less be faster? The turbo engine must have been running at half efficiency. They didn't put turbos on the engines just for looks.

You might want to retubo it if you still can, sounds like you've got all the engine issues worked out, so why don't you squeeze the performance back out of it?

Next time, just put the car in 4th,if its a manual. See if you can hook it with a magenet. If not, you may have to pull the engine. That would suck.

The problem with an ungrounded coil is that the voltage is produced, but has nowhere to go, so it puts a lot of stress on the insulation inside the coil and can blow it.

Check the cap and rotor. To pull codes, take off the lower dash panel on the drivers side. Take the three screws out of the fuse box and remove the plastic rivits on both sides of the panel. This will expose the computer, which is the big silver box. There is a hole in the upper side of the box, turn the engine on and watch the LED in the hole. Long flashes mean tens, short ones mean ones. The pattern will repeat, you may also have multiple codes. Watch the pattern and write down the #'s, keep watching to confirm them. If the LED doesn't blink but the check engine light is on, connect the connectors (I think they're white) that are in the engine compartment by the winshield wiper motor. A chart of the codes may be in the Utimate Subaru Repair Manual. If not, PM me and I'll look it up in one of my books. Good luck!

I like the 3-doors. Gl, RX, I think they made some loyale ones. I just like the way they look. The RX would be nice cause of the full time 4wd and the turbo, but I'd like to take a more nondescript 3-door and put a 2.2 in it. The 3-door's are just such unique looking cars, some may think that they are just ugly, but i think they're cool. Put in another vote for the RX's.

From what I read, he got caught twice and did time for it. Sounds like a cool guy though, and can draw wicked. Thats why you don't get caught (teenage invincibility speaking)

Talk to WJM, he just lowered a wagon.

Whats done is done and its best to look back on fun experiences with glee. BTW, it got down below 40 that night and all i had was my rain jacket. Not so fun.

Check to see how many of the frilly fins of the radiator have fallen off and check the electric fan. If it isn't coming on, unplug the wires to it and check to see if theres +12V at the connector (this is with engine hot, not running, but in on position) If there isn't, check the thermo switch, wich is on the passenger side of the radiator.

The only disadvantage to having your belts snap is being left by the side of the road. No harm is caused to the engine because the valves don't interfere with the piston travel. It took me about 3 hours to take the covers of of my GL, but that was a first time and I kept stripping the nurled nuts in the plastic because of corrosion. I put the covers back on with zip ties to make it a faster job in the future. If every thing goes well, I think that taking the covers off should take less than 3/4 of an hour. I think that you're supposed to change the belts every 60k miles. And with the intake boot, if its in the rectangular section, just use duct tape

Thanks for the advise. sorry, the car has 153k on it, all on the origional clutch. The clutch disengages close to the top of the pedal travel, and reengages close to the same place, so I think its working fine. Wouldn't worn syncros or a stuck clutch cause the gears to make an audible grinding noise? The tranny is full of decent looking oil. I'm thinking of putting the D/R tranny out of my GL in eventually, but in the year or so in the meantime, I'm hoping for an easy fix.

My 91 loyale's shifter (its a manual) is very stiff. It takes a fair amount of effort to shift through the gears. There is no grinding, but it forces you to drive the car sedately. In my GL I can slam the shifter through the gears and accelerate decently fast, but I can't do that when the shifter wont move fast. Does anyone know why this is the way it is? I sprayed penetrating oil all over the area where the linkages run, but that didn't help. Is there bushings or something that would stiffen over time? I need some advice.

I took my beater car to one of the best off road spots in my area. it was about a 5 mile driv in an unregistered, uninsured, uninspected car with no liscence and no title, and with my parents after me. (I had failed 2 classes and my perrents were giving me sh*t for about the 100th time, so i took off) i took the car up a washed out (read: bare rock that you have to zigzag from one side to another to keep from bottoming) class 6 road and headed into an abandoned rock crusking area. I took the car way off into the woods down rocky, tough trails. The whole place is only used by 4 wheelers, cause its hard to get to. The legacy did real good, with bald tires and a burnt clutch (it slips whenever you floor the car in any gear above 2nd) and it made it through some decent mud and kicked but on the trails. I camped out over night and headed back the next morning. my parents caught up with me at the school in the morning, that was an embarrasing scene. The car only bottomed about 5 times, putting dents in the floor support members, the rocker panels and the muffler. I was impressed at how well the car did.

Why not just buy a wagon? Seems easier.

I backed my wagon over a very steep slope this winter and ended up with my right front wheel in the air,and my rear foor pan holding the car from making the plunge. I used the scizzors jack and the spare tire to give the dangling rear weel some traction,and the spun its way out with some goading. I really wish I had a LSD 'cause once one wheel is free, you're stuck. I would have been completely done if it wasn't four wheel though.

The code will be in reference to the solenoid or the wires to it. The solenoid is (looking from the front) tothe left and forward of the throtle body. A 10mm bolt holds it down. It's easy to pull and check and I bet its burnt out.