WoodsWagon

One con is that the owners know they will have to ditch the engine after the milage limit, so they don't bother to change the oil.

its a 2.2 liter engine, so at 6000 rpm the engine would be moving 1.1 X 6000 = 6,600 liters a minute because for each cylinder to go through a full cycle it takes 2 rotations of the crankshaft, hence the 1.1 being used. Boost is most useful up at higher RPMs because of air starvation. If someone could do the CFM conversion from 6,600 L it would be nice. I did not know of cared EJ's, interesting to know. If they had FI, why did they still use the carbs?

sorry folks, misread cubic meters as cubil liters. now inserting foot in mouth.

Their full of sh*t . I doubt 150 cubic ft a min would even give you 1psi boost. They couldn't even keep their facts straight, in the text it said it was only for non-fuel-injected models only, all EJ's are fuel injected.

I supose that the turn signals would be legal if they were run by both switches. you could install tinted fog lights that would be run from the opposite end of the car as brake lights. The headlights could also be turned on by the opposite ends reverse switch. Interesting smoke shows could be had with two drivers. Think, third gear moving in the front and a first gear clutch dump in the back... or other front.

i think the EJ18's are rare in the states, someone back me up on this please. They may be rare for good reason, i.e. they sucked, or it may be a save this kind of rare. Talk to other, more knowlegable people to get solid info. My brain is kinda fried, it being midnight and all. just my 1 cent.

having no firsthand knowledge of the autos, but having read many posts about them, I have heard they suck. Putting an already sucky transmission with bigger tires that will take more to turn will make the whole car suck even worse. Posts on swapping to a D/R make it sound not all that bad, just the new pedal box sounds like a pain. The low range will do wonders. if you want a bit more clearance, you could go with bigger tires on the same rims, like 185's. I recall a post about this, so just do a search. The bigger rims and tires need a lift (i think), so going big means a lot of work. If i am wrong i would appreciate being corrected.

I've already got a 91 loyale in progress, so this car is just for fun on the land. After i'm finished with it, the spare parts will go to my dads 95 legacy and the engine, bellhousing, clutch, harness and computer will end up being adapted to a d/r tranny I have. Hopefully this setup will end up in a 3 door, if not it will end up in my loyale. I don't like the looks of the early legacys, they look too much like a Camry. The loyale is also about 500lbs lighter. 130 horse and Low range 4wd mean good times. I'm on the lokout for a good 3 door body, I have a rusted to pieces one that i like for its looks and handling. The loyale has emotional attachments 'cause it was a gift from a relative, so it has to go back on the road to appease the gods of good fortune and gifted cars.

Where? I didn't see one through the hole in the spare tire well. Or am i blind?

I'm picking up a 1992 Legacy L manual AWD with a bit of rust, shakey brakes, and a slipping clutch tomorrow. I paid scrap value for it, $75, put my own wheels and battery on. The car has sat in a guys yard for 2 years, he parked it when the clutch started to slip, and it started first try. I turned the key and rrrrnt, rrrnt, vroooom. The clutch slips bad, since the brake pads were rusted to the rotors (4 wheel disks) I had to rock the car to break them free. I could take my foot off the clutch pedal and rev the engine with it in gear. Nasty smell. It busted free and i took it for a rip round his neighbors lawn. i was so proud, both my dad and him doubted it would start, but it just started like it had been parked the day before. I knew it would, having previous experience with a Legacy L, same year auto, running on 3 cyl cause the plugs had blown out and it was left in the muddiest part of a scrappile, that one started right up to. I love subarus, what other car could survive so well? Oh, i was wondering if i could adjust the cable on the clutch and get some more life out of it?

Why? Why do such a dirty thing to such a nice car? What was FHI thinking? That Saad is going to cut into thir market and slander their name. I hve never liked Saads and to see them get their grubby fingers on a Subaru is so... distressing. I'm not eloquent like subarubrat in expressing my loss.

I have all old subies but I have wanted a WRX ever since he relayed to me that him and his brother had gotten his bro's up to 140 on RT 128 at 2 am. The car was bone stock, and they said that it started to "float" as it got up above 130. A non sporty looking sedan that kicks but in the snow and does 140 on pavement? I want really bad

Now you just need an intercooler for that hole plug to cool

Even with the cooling issues that EA82's normally have, it might be a quick solution to toss some of that radiator sealer stuff in. I think that I had a manifold gasket leaking (sweet white smoke, plugs on left side nasty) and i used the sealer-in-a-bottle and the problem dissapeared. With the coolant going into the oil, this may not be such a good idea, who knows what it would do to the pump/ lifters, but you might get away with it. If you haven't lost compression, the ssealer shouldn't be under too much stress. It all depends on whether the engine is meant to be a limping laster or a smooth runner.

Anyone? Please help.

Have you cut the bottom out of the airbox yet? it might help a bit. And northguy, if she's under 18 its considered rape in many states

I was beating a 92 legacy 2wd auto around, it was only running on 3 cylinders, so I was using the shift lock override and manual mode to drop it into gear to get moving. I would pop it into neutral and slowdown while reving the engine to keep it live. All of a sudden it wouldn't go into neutral and i almost nailed a fence with one foot on the gas, one on the brake and my hands split between the wheel and the shifter. my mind was deffiniately on the shifter at the time, so the car stalled. I couldn't restart it 'cause it was in gear (darn auto tranny) I had to push it out of the way with a tractor. The dash indicator says its in 1, and the lever feels unusasally free, so i figureits the linkage.Why would it break, where would it and is it easy to fix? remember this is a beater car.

The fridge is only big enough to hold a six pack. It has a small fan and peltia heat pump on the side. Shouldn't draw too much. I plan on putting the coil on soon, but i've been busy with rust repair and school. I took the thing for a hillclimb in my sandpit, it woulda made it to the top if I had a better run on it. It went like 15-18 feet (verticle height) up the sand, which was at close to a 45 degree angle up. Lotsa fun.

My loyale had serious acceleration problems, when you wanted to accelerate, you would have to carefully match the pedal to the RPMs to lead the engine up. If you floored it, it would bogg real bad and have less power than when you led it up. The old cap and rotor had white fuzz on the contacts, I think they were origional (153k mi.). I just put a new cap, rotor and wires on it, and the thing is smokingly fast (compared to before). Before I had no worrys about hitting redline or spinning the tires, but now it will leave 20ft worth of churned dirt and whine right up to 6500. I'v got the whole interior torn out for the installations I am planning and lots of rust repair in progress, so all the tools and parts were sliding around as I was "testing" the new power. Lotsa fun. I snapped off one of the screws holding the cap down, so I still have work to do. The Accell coil is still going to go in though.

When you turn the car to the On position, but without starting it, do you hear the fuel pump kick on for a couple of seconds? If you don't, the fuel pump shutoff may have been tripped. I think it is behind th drivers side rear trim panel, but i would like someone else to confrim this and to say how to reset it.

all the control equipment for the heater vents is down to the right of the accelerator pedal. look for white canisters, these are the vacuum actuators. They run the button functions. the heat range is operated by a cable, also down to the right of the accelerator. look for any broken parts and remember that the vacuum lines are often thin hard plastic (black) flex pipes.

I feel your pain. Is it one of those yards that won't sell whole cars? On of my local yards has a decent 3-door that they won't let me have. Liability reasons they said. Such a pity to see good cars go to waste.

Ok, i think i understand. thanks

yeah, yeah. I meant with reference to the posts.

Sorry, newbie here. What is the reason for bumps?