WoodsWagon

Or buy a brand new shortblock from the dealer and slap your heads on that. They're around $2k.

It's for more than venting on hot days, it's a critical part of the HVAC system. Think about it, if you have the heater fan on high trying to defrost the windows, and it's pulling air from outside, where's it going to blow the air out of if all the windows are shut? You need a place for air to get out of the car if it's getting blown in by the fan. That's what those are there for. The rocker panels have multiple drain slots in the pinch weld area. That lets any water that gets in drain out.

I'll add to this the prime culprit of sticking pads in the northeast rust belt is the caliper bracket rusting under where the stainless steel shim clips into. Wire brushing won't remove the rust either, I use a cut-off wheel to carefully grind the bracket back to bare metal in those notches, then grease it, then clip the stainless shims in. You could probably use a coarse file to do the same thing. The caliper pins are easy to notice if stuck, the pads dragging in the rusted bracket is more sneaky.

My dad has a 96 2.2l (nearly identical to the 90-94's) with at least 300k on it, possibly substantially more. The speedometer was broken on it when I got it, and had been for years. It said 260k or so. The guy I bought it from said it hadn't worked the whole time he had it, and bragged of taking it to Canada and Mexico. He was using it daily out west in his business as a farrier. Still runs fine, doesn't use any oil, and gets good MPG. Can't complain. If it ever goes we have the ej22 out of his 95 with only 180k on it to swap in.

All of them had the compartment, most of them didn't get the filter. The optional filter also has a big bypass notch for where the blower motor resistor goes, so it doesn't filter nearly as well as it could. It also is after the blower, before the a/c evaporator, so it doesn't keep anything out of the fan. I wouldn't bother putting the filter in. They're pricey and ineffectual. I did it once and realized it wasn't worth it. At least the hatch for changing filters makes it easier to get in there and vacuum off the A/C evaporator. It's clear the filter option was an afterthought, and not well executed. Normally I'd recommend cabin filters because they do make a big difference, especially for people with allergies. But with a big bypass? What's the point?

Yup, that's screwed! There can't be much guide left in the head, it's gone all the way down and mushroomed over the bigger part of the stem of the valve it looks like. Wow! I'm amazed it's not missfiring. Try turning the engine over with a bar and watch the guide, I bet it's moving with the valve and poking in and out of the head. The hole it presses into in the head is probably too wallowed out at this point to press a new guide in, so you're looking at a replacement head. Consider it lucky that valve hasn't broken and destroyed the piston yet. I would also think the guides dropped due to overheating rather than carbon. If the headgaskets have been dripping coolant out, it could have gotten low at some point. Thanks for taking the picture!

The viscous rear lsd's are pretty helpless. I wouldn't spend more than $100 for a really low mile one. The clutch type can actually work pretty well, but you have to be abusive with them to get a lot of torque transfer. The harder you hit it, the tighter the clutch pack gets wedged together. They are getting hard to find now though and you would have to adapt the rear axles to fit the male stub axles on the diff.

What makes you think the guides have dropped? Can you take a picture in the exhaust port? The bigger the lash, the louder the tick because the rocker is moving faster before it hits the valve stem. Too small of a lash and the valve won't fully close when it gets hot and expands in length. When it doesn't close tightly on the seat, it can't dump heat and it quickly burns. So looser is safer than tight.

Take the oil soaked filter out, unplug the MAF sensor wiring connector, check the oil level on the dipstick to make sure it's not above the full mark, and fire it up. Should run well enough you can drive it to a shop that's willing to actually diagnose what's going on with the PCV system.

Ring land failure on a SPFI EA82 in a Loyale? I find that highly unlikely. It also woudn't just shut off. More likely a timing belt broke or the screw holding the rotor inside the distributor fell out.

If the LLbean has auto climate control, no, you can't switch it in. There's extra wiring, sensors, and ductwork that goes with it.

I've done a bit of flat towing. This make it 2500 miles: I welded tabs onto the factory bumper beam for the tow bar to hook into. Then ran safety chains from my truck, across the tow bar, and anchored to the tow loops on the subaru just in case something did come apart. I backfed the subaru's front turn signal wiring from the trailer lights plug on my truck. That gave rear turn and stop signals. And I backfed a front parking light bulb for running lights. Easiest is to just pick up a pair of magnetic base trailer lights from harbor freight for like $15. I towed an antique VW across the country too, that one I built a pipe bumper to weld tabs to because the stock chrome one was flimsy.

The OP never mentioned whether the car is an auto or a manual, so don't run too far on the assumption it's an auto. Safest is to unbolt the rear driveshaft at the differential. Not hard to do, and it makes sure you won't damage the transmission, no matter what it is.

I will say the 05+ subarus' don't seem to rust nearly as bad as the older ones. The 00-04 legacy's and outbacks just disintegrated in the rear, I'd say they rusted faster and worse than the 95-99's, and those were already pretty bad. So better rust proofing is a step of progress I can be happy about. Add rear wheel bearings to the list on the 05+'s, at least they're bolt in, but still, seen a few of them go around 100k. I can't fault them for going to plastic intakes. It's a non-moving, non-wearing part, why not make it lighter? VW built things out of shitty brittle plastic that needed the strength of metal. The plastic AC idler pulley isn't an issue, it's the crappy bearing inside it. I also have an 03 EJ25 with a circle melted through the timing belt cover. It may have gone catastrophic because I noticed new valves in one head when I did headgaskets for the 2n'd time on it. First shop botched the job, put the headbolts in dry, and whizzer wheeled the head and block surfaces so the parts can't really be blamed for only making it 60k.

I would use the copper/nickle alloy brake tubing and bend & flare your own. It's much easier to work with, seals better at the fittings, and has just as good corrosion resistance.

Seeing as you don't intend to fix it properly and instead are just driving around on the handbrake, the next best solution would be to block the leaking line off. Trace it back to a fitting under the hood, undo the fitting, and put a flat head nail that fits inside the the tube and the head fits inside the female side of the fitting and tighten it back down. the head of the nail will seal against the flare of the fitting. You can bleed it by having an assistant push down on the pedal after you've filled the brake master reservoir and loosening the fitting a bit. Tighten it back down and see if it has a firm brake pedal again. That will at least get you front brakes back working on the pedal.

That's a phase 2 EJ22 he's got, not the same animal as the older EJ22's. I would agree on the older ones, my dad's driving one with over 300k on it and it runs as good as new. The phase 2's seem about the same as the phase 2 EJ25's. Not awful, but not great either. I've had a babied one owner 130k mile one chuck a rod 3 weeks after I did an oil change. It was still full of oil too.

All the people saying just run it on old gas have never dealt with the aftermath of running an engine on old gas and having it glue the valvestems into the guides once it cools back down. It really sucks and I did it to a few different engines before I learned. That said, it's a sealed EVAP controlled fuel tank in the subaru, so the gas being runnable after a year is likely. If it's under a 1/2 tank I would fill it with fresh gas before running it. Your other option is to hook up the green diagnostic connectors and hook a fuel hose to the filter so the fuel pump can pump the tank out into a gas can. The problem then is what to do with the gas? I always end up burning it a couple gallons at a time in a burn barrel, but that's smokey and not very neighbor friendly. I just got done reviving a Tacoma that had sat for 14 years. The amount of tar, rust, and scale inside the tank was horrible. I scrubbed and scrubbed and used various chemicals with lots of flushing but the first tank of fresh gas still floated enough junk free to clog the pump pickup. I ended up using another tank that was rusty on the outside but clean on the inside.

What's the clackety noise you're hearing? Is it just one clack when you shift reverse to drive it does it keep clattering until you start accelerating? Does the transmission hold the car on a hill when you put it in Park? Or does the car roll away? A broken axle CV joint or any other driveline component between the transmission and any of the wheels will feel like a slipping trans as the AWD system tries to compensate. Accelerating harder makes it less noticable because the AWD is programmed to lock up when you do a fast start for greatest traction. Easy slow starts will show the most slippage.

Open the rear side doors and check for rust at the bottom of the door opening right by the seat. Also look over the rear subframe carefully, they rust out pretty badly. It would be a shame to put a bunch of work into a car with structural issues. 4eat is the same, the transfer case assembly is different. It's real AWD with a planetary differential instead of the plain rear transfer clutchpack that the non vdc's have. The front diff is a 4.11 ratio, so you need to find one to match which is only going to be in a h6 car.

I would not use that dash harness unless you really want the digi-dash. Even then I'd try making it work in the wrecked car before bothering to strip out the dash. With the windshield out and the dash that bleached from weather exposure I'd expect a lot of corrosion on all the connectors in the dash. If you're running an aftermarket ECU, just chop off the body side of the engine harness connector and splice direct to that. Use your body wiring to run all the lights and alternator and run a couple extra wires to power the ECU. You can jumper the starter neutral interlock at the plug to the a/t shifter. Clutch switch is up to you, it's a safety feature but not necessary.

If that pump is junk too, you can use a $100 ford truck frame rail mounted pump. You need to adapt the big inlet hose from the loyale tank down to the size of the ford pump inlet, but it's pretty straight forward and they work well. They also rarely go bad, so I've had good luck pulling them off trucks in the junkyard. Look for late 80's F series trucks.

I've seen it. If the pump seizes on an EJ, the timing belt will slip over the stopped pully. No squeeling, just a light hot rubber smell. The EZ's pumps are chain driven so I doubt it could seize and slip but maybe the sprocket could spin on the shaft. On both the vanes could erode. I've also seen an overheating EJ with the red plastic junkyard engine shipping plug in the lower radiator hose thermostat housing with the hose jammed over it. Both are circulation issues, both will boil bubbles and coolant into the overflow and overheat. Pauldoug..... I don't see the point in finding out what the correct diagnosis was and then holding out so more people can guess. On this forum people are genuinely trying to help strangers fix their cars. It's not a game of who was right. What's more important is knowing what was right so that adds to the knowledge base and can help the next stranger in distress that shows up asking for help. I'm glad you got your car fixed.

Water pump would be my guess, especially if it cools better if you drive faster. Try manually downshifting the trans to hold it in a lower gear when it gets hot. Does it cool back down even with you maintaining the same speed? If the pump isn't circulating properly, then you will get localized hot spots in the engine where the coolant will boil, even though the whole temp of the engine isn't in the overheating range. That could be what you're seeing in the overflow bottle.

The fun starts when you try to replace it, because out of the 4 big bolts that hold that subframe to the body, at least one will snap off or take the threads out of the captured nut in the body. Unless you can poke a hole in the subframe, leave it alone because the job quickly turns into a massive headache. If you have a good compressed air supply, buy a needle scaler http://www.harborfreight.com/air-needle-scaler-61447.html to blast the rust off, then coat it in good paint. That will buy a couple years.