WoodsWagon

Well your video is a walkaround of the car and it doesn't show any rust, so it's hard to give advice based on that. Where is is rotted? These cars don't have a frame, though there is areas of the body that are more structural than others. Give us some description of exactly where the holes are or even better pictures of them and we can help a lot more.

Use coax cable, run the center wire to the knock sensor terminal and ground the shield to the block and ECU on either end.

The 2.2l's have slightly less power, but that's it. You can't get the Outback wagon with the raised ride height and big tires with the 2.2l unless it's a 96 with the 5spd manual. Pretty much everything is interchangeable on subarus. You may not be able to buy the trim level with the motor you want, but you can either swap motors or swap interiors or suspension ect. It's the same body shell so anything you want bolts on. It doesn't take much to total a 96 subaru, so it may be cheaper for you to buy it back from the insurance company and fix it using junkyard parts than to buy another car. How hard was it hit and where? If you've done the headgaskets in the DOHC 2.5l they should be good for life, so it's not going to be a continuing issue. You also know the maintenence performed on the car vs a replacement one. The buyback is probably only a few hundred bucks out of the claim settlement. After you fix it you take it for a salvage inspection and get it re-titled.

Might as well see how high you can take the 4cyl before switching to the 6. More boost, more nitrous, more fuel and more water/meth until it spits a rod out of the block.

Is the assumption that any ea82t is an engine on the way out? If you listen carefully to any engine with a paranoid mind you will hear noises that you can convince yourself mean DOOM! A knock sensor code does not equal a knocking engine. It equals an electrical failure. I've seen engines with pounding rod bearings and no knock sensor codes or ignition retard because the sensor is not tuned to the frequency of a pounding bearing. It's tuned to the higher frequency of detonation.

I looked through the other videos he had uploaded and found this: Sorry, sounds like even they EJ swapped it. Sad ending to the story is the pilot ended up dieing in a crash with that autogyro. Cool heads though. I wonder if they modified some existing 4cyl castings with the same bore center or if they poured their own? Would be neat to find out more info on how it was done.

What does it show with the connector plugged into the sensor and the sensor installed? Same resistance reading as measuring just the sensor alone? If you have an assistant tap on the sensor with a wrench with it installed do you see the same voltage at the ECU connector? Make sure the ECU pins are all clean too. It could be a failing ECU too. It is highly unlikely the mechanicals of the engine are setting your code. The knock you heard could be light TOD from a hydro lash adjuster or piston slap or a hundred other harmless things. Don't convince yourself it's on the way out just because it set a code.

Swapping the flapper door maf to a hot wire one won't gain you much if anything. The flapper door MAF cars are better for cranking up the boost because fuel cut is controlled by a pressure switch. Unplug the pressure switch and it will never hit fuel cut. Later hot-wire maf cars use the measured volume of air going in to calculate an overboost situation and hit fuel cut. No easy way to get around that. There's two pressure switches on the passenger side strut tower. One is for the "turbo" light in the dash, the other is for fuel cut. Go over all the coolant hoses including the small ones to the turbo and the intake manifold for cracks, swelling. or soft feeling. If you spring a coolant leak the headgaskets will pop by the time you notice it. The cooling system needs to be in top-notch shape before you try getting more power out of the engine. I would highly recommend installing an intercooler or water/meth injection system or both before turning up the boost. They will give you a much greater margin of safety before the engine blows up. Which it most likely will by the way. These are not stout engines and they got away with not having enough power to hurt themselves. Turn the boost up to where it starts making real power and the weak points will show themselves. Heads, headgaskets, rods, pistons, ect. When you're done grenading it you can swap to an EJ series engine and start making reliable power.

Um, if the knock sensor is detecting knock it retards the ignition timing in normal mode. Advancing is normal vs the static timing with the connectors together. I don't think it can set a code for detecting too much knock, just for an electrical open or short on the circuit between the the ECU and the sensor ground. It may be that the wire or connector to the sensor is failing. A knock sensor code doesn't mean the engine is detonating or that rod bearings are going, so don't panic that the engine is about to blow up because it set a code. It's an electrical issue. So you get to put your multimeter to good use rather than your wrenches.

That's great to hear! Yeah, it's one of those things you don't think will work until you try it and find out how well it does. Just make sure to keep the system clean, you don't want dirt clogging the nozzle.

Yup, could be clogged or it might not be getting fed enough through the main bearing the rod is lubed from. Check the passages in the block leading to that main.

So how did it work? What size nozzle did you run on the water/meth?

Don't have them spraying in the same spot. Put the water/meth jet right at the turbo outlet and the nitrous by the throttle body. That will give more time for the water to vaporize and suck the heat out of the compressed air.

Check the rear trailing arm bushings where they attach to the body under the back seat on the bottom of the car. They're the links that come straight forward from the rear wheels. When those bushings start falling apart they create interesting handling, and I've seen a bunch of them wear out.

Never lay curved glass flat, it will break if given the chance. You want it on edge, that's how all the glass trucks transport it.

I usually put just the tach in, the blank plate comes out and the tach goes in with 3 screws when you disassemble the cluster. That way the odometer stays the same. You should be able to do a full cluster swap. As long as the plugs are the same on the back, subaru's pretty good about keeping pin functions the same.

Those nuts holding the sender in can be a real PITA. I had to use an oxy/acetylene torch to heat them on my mom's outback and pound a smaller socket on to get them loose. I was not pleased about having to use a torch on a tank, especially since the reason I was replacing it was because the pipe elbow sticking out of the sender was rusted though.

Did the carbed ea81 break the pistons too or just all the boosted motors? Running lean and running to much ignition advance on too low octane fuel causes busted pistons. Water/meth can help with that for cheap and be used with nitrous. Spray it in the outlet of the intercooler so that it has time to be fully dispersed by the time it hits the throttle body and intake plenum. Or do port injection, one jet in each intake runner. More likely to clog though because you're running 4 tiny jets instead of one big one. Start playing with water/meth and you'll be surprised how much power you can make for dirt cheap. I use -20 or -30 winter grade blue windshield washer fluid. 9.6:1 compression, 12.5psi out of a non-intercooled roots supercharger and no tune. Runs on premium pump gas. Stock engine with forged nothing.

Springs don't do anything for you, it's the struts that make the height difference between the Outbacks vs non. You may want to swap the rear trailing arm mounts with Outback ones too, it helps center the rear wheels in the wheel well rather than having them tucked toward the front. They bolt on to the body under the rear seat. No issues with axles or alignment angles doing outback struts on a brighton. You also end up with more ground clearance than an Outback because you don't have the subframe drop blocks.

The OP was asking if anyone had put a porsche motor in a subaru, not a subaru motor in a porsche. That's why people were saying it's more common to see subaru engines replacing porsche ones just like in your swap.

I don't have one to look at, but how many brake lines are hooked to it? You either need a couple metric flare unions or a 3 way junction block. Is there one line or two coming from the master cylinder down to the hill-holder? If there's two coming in and two coming out of the hill holder, use the flare unions to join them together. If there's only 3, there' one input and two outputs, so use a junction block. The only function the hill holder valve serves is blocking the return flow from one front and one rear brake. Replacing it with a junction block won't effect the braking.

Don't know if you're running water/methanol injection as well, but if you're cracking pistons from detonation you should be. It works miracles at suppressing knock.

I'd check the rear crossmember before buying springs. Even with the springs gone, the tires shouldn't be able to rub on anything. If the crossmember is failing, the control arms/links can move enough to let the tires start rubbing.

You could but that's a lot more work and money than just swapping the center diff.

The axles are often wobbly where they plug into the side of the transmission. There isn't actually a bearing there, it's just the inside of the differential carrier and the side gears. As long as you can't pull the axle out by hand (they're held in with a spring clip) it's fine. The clunking could be a couple things. If the front outer CV boots are torn, the joints will start to click and make noise on tight turns. They should be the same warm/cold though. The center diff has a viscous coupling that limits the amount of slip between the front and rear outputs of the transmission. As they start to fail they will cause "torque bind". It gets worse as the transmission heats up. If you drive in a tight circle on pavement, it will take more throttle to keep it going around and you will feel a shuddering and thumping in the middle of the car. As it gets worse it will start chirping the tires to relive the binding. It's essentially turning into a 4x4 truck instead of an AWD car. The center diff can be replaced without removing the transmission from the car. The tailhousing unbolts from the back of the trans and the center diff slides right out. Hardest part is getting the double roll pin out of the shift yoke. Your transmission is a Phase 2, so you'd need to get a replacement from a 2000 or newer trans. Or buy a new/rebuilt one. The center diff isn't serviceable, so you have to get the whole chunk.