WoodsWagon

I assume you're talking about the 1/2 and 1" rubber hoses that attach to the intake tube between the airbox and the throttle body. That's the PCV system, and you need it hooked up because it's measured air getting sucked into the intake. If you switch to breather filters it will not show enough flow going through the MAF sensor and will cause problems. The 1" hose is the idle air inlet, and it really needs to be hooked up.

You should be able to pull almost 30 on the highway if it's an auto. We could get 29.5mpg with 3 people and their gear in our 1998 cruising cross country at 75mph. This was a 98 Outback wagon with the DOHC 2.5l and 4eat. Middle of summer doing crosscountry trips across the midwest.

I worked for a Honda/Kia dealership and the kiss of death was getting sent to Kia school to get certified. Their warranty work doesn't pay ************ and all Kia work is warranty work. I stayed with the Honda's as much as I could. The dealer used to use Odyssey's for the customer shuttle, but they switched to a Sedona because they were cheaper. It started doing the door opening thing on the highway with customers in it. The first couple times the driver thought the customers were screwing with him, but then it happened with no one else in it when he was on a parts run. I think they fixed it by adjusting the door position sensors, but man, not the right way to impress customers. I'd argue Hyundai and Kia have gotten significantly better over the past decade. They are still cheap disposable cars, but the quality has come up a lot. They are also not mistubishi's, they used to use straight mitsu drivetrains up to the mid 90's, but now it's all their own design. From what I saw in the shop they're more innovative than Honda with diagnostic tools and new designs, but Honda is ridiculously stuck in their ways so that isn't saying much. The Kia scan tool had a warning screen you had to go through every time before pulling codes that told you the issue was more likely to be the wiring than the sensors. Good to know they had confidence in their work.

Torque bind isn't an issue offroad, heck the d/r 5spd is maximum torque bind when you put it in 4x4. Your comparison between Montana and WA state wheeling is missing the altitude difference. There's an easy 20% power loss due to the thinner air, so it's going to be struggling and it's not the transmissions fault.

You will probably need custom pistons because the distance between the center of the wristpin and the deck of the block gets shorter the more you stroke the engine out. Cheaper to just run a 2.2l or a 2.5l.

The speed sensor in the transmission talks to the speedometer head in the dash which converts the signal and in turn talks to the engine computer, so that's where the code is coming from. Auto or manual trans? The manual is more of a pain to work with because the speed sensor is buried more under the firewall than on an auto. I would try a heat gun, like a industrial hair drier, to soften the plastic a bit and then use a big e-z out to try and get the plastic to unthread.

mid to late 90's legacy outbacks with a manual trans are the cheapest source, but you'll need to modify it and your pedal box to meld the two together.

They were, my 86 wagon has very faded 4wd Turbo stickers on the rear doors.

The sealed bearings lasted the same for me as the open ones. I spent a lot of time in deep water, so I'd be doing a hub every 6 months or so. They always came out with rusty mud goo in them instead of grease. So, no strength difference that I saw, but no advantage in deep water. I had no carpets in the car and the drain holes were opened. Water in, water out, and the only thing that would get pissed off was the electric seatbelt controller.

The WRX clutch is a pull type pressure plate, the throwout bearing clips into the fingers of the pressure plate and pulls on them to release the clutch. The xt6 is a push type pressure plate, the throwout bearing rests against the fingers and pushes into them to release the clutch. It's not an issue of cable vs hydro, it the completely different release design. The only parts of the clutch you could use are the pilot bearing and the clutch disk. You can swap to a turbo pull type transmission if you want, but that negates the savings of getting a good deal on the clutch.

The only different clutch disks were the 2wd ones, they were smaller diameter. Pick whichever disk has the most thickness left to it.

Keep receipts for the parts you use like the doors. The salvage inspector will want to see them before issuing the new title. And yes, you need a new title. The insurance company bought the car off you and then sold it back to you. My mom got caught for not re-titling her taurus after I fixed it the first time. By the time the state noticed 2 years later and sent a warning that they were going to pull the registration, it got totaled a second time. The second crash was way worse and not worth fixing, so we junked the car.

It's probably going to be totaled just because the car isn't worth much to start with. In reality, it's not that hard to fix damage like that. It looks like you submarined your bumper under theirs, so your hood and upper radiator support took the hit instead of the bumper.

Show me a phase 1 sohc where the valve covers block the headbolts. I could have said ej22, but then you would have jumped on me for not including ej18 or excluding the phase 2 ej22. So I said exactly what I said to cover the exact engines I was talking about.

DOHC's are a whore to do in-car. Pull it, you're not saving much time and it's easy to seat the torque converter correctly if you pay a minimum of attention. The #1 reason to do DOHC headgaskets on an engine stand is the valve shims and buckets. The cams have to come out to get at the headbolts, and with the cams out the exhaust shims and buckets are free to drift out of their wells and fall on the floor. I've done phase 1 SOHC headswaps in car and they're great, don't even have to pull the valvcover. No way on the DOHC's though, they interfere with my zen.

This is right, and since a 99 (non-GT or Outback) Legacy has a PHASE 2 2.2l in it, the coolant conditioner is made for it. The coolant conditioner does not work in Phase 1 DOHC motors, but that's not what the OP's car has in it so it doesn't apply.

A 99 2.2l should be a phase2 engine, so the subaru coolant conditioner is meant for it. Subaru recommends keeping a bottle of it mixed in with the coolant of every 99-05 4cyl, whether it's leaking or not. So I don't think there's much of an issue of it clogging the radiator or heater core. I used two of those bottles to seal a radiator that cracked and was pissing coolant when hot in a ford explorer. 30k miles later its still holding up. There's nothing to loose in trying the Subaru Coolant Conditioner, it's a factory authorized stop leak.

The cheap NGK's do work best in these for whatever reason. The DOHC 2.5l's had to have OEM wires, but the other engines work fine with quality aftermarket ones, like the blue NGK's. The codes you listed have nothing to do with the engine swap. They may have shown up when the swap was done, but if it was done right they wouldn't be there. The MAP code could be the vacuum hoses going from the intake to the passenger side strut tower hooked up wrong. The p0420 is usually the 02 sensors and a front sensor going bad can cause driveablity issues without setting an 02 sensor code.

Notice the part where I said "gentle wiggling"? You dad must have jammed the key in there and twisted it hard. As for it being a "stupid idea" I've opened/moved a lot of cars up to late 90's with my keyring of older jap keys. Not theft mind you, but expediency in getting it out of the way or moving it as a prank. Plus it's opened a couple locked cars with the keys in them. One was even running with a dog inside. So if you're gentle it can work just fine. Tumblers don't break just from inserting a key in the lock.

Grab a handful of older jap car keys. Chances are with gentle wiggling another key will work.

If he can't afford the price tag the smart thing to do would to trade it in at a dealer as quick as possible. Sure, it will add to the reputation of turbo subaru's being unreliable junk when it blows on the next owner, but hopefully it will be the dealers warranty covering it. Scumbucket move, but if he can't afford to take care of it in the first place it's the easiest way out of the car.

Toss a small blue bottle of "Subaru Coolant Conditioner" in it, they're $5 from the dealer. It's designed to seal the headgaskets that leak coolant outside the engine, and it works surprisingly well.

TD04's are cheap, you should be able to find a used one in good condition for under $150. If he ran it out of oil till the oil pressure light came on, he's going to be looking at a full engine rebuild in the near future. You can wipe out rod bearings in those with them full of oil. Run it out and well....

How does it suck? Can it not pull itself over obstacles, does the engine power out on steep climbs, does it shift when you don't want it to? I'm asking because I want details, not just "it sucks". You might try an auxiliary cooler if you keep cooking them. Low speed work is going to build a lot of heat in the torque converter, but as long as that's kept under control with a good cooler, it shouldn't be any harder on the transmission.

So whats the main complaint with it offroad?