WoodsWagon

Well no ************ sherlock Rangers have TTB. You asked about radius rods like what he had in his Ranger, which is what I addressed. I explained what the benefit of extended arms were on that truck and why it would have no benefit on a subaru, which was in direct answer to your question. I am intimately familiar with the front end in that Ranger, having worked a lot on a 71 Bronco which uses the exact same system. You need to keep the strut rods flat, the more angle on them the more jacking effect you get when you hit bumps. Extending them back puts them in an area of the unibody on a subaru that isn't meant to handle those forces, so you'll need to build a subframe structure too. Might as well make the strut rods stronger too because they banana bend pretty often. I adjusted mine by stacking big washers in front of the front bushing and small washers between the rear bushing washer and the step in the shank of the rod. You can only move it as much as the threads that are left beyond the nut, but that does get you some.

Rear ones are a lot cheaper and I've had success replacing them on early 00's cars to cure a 420 code. I haven't had the opportunity on 05+'s. The pre-cat A/F sensors cost twice as much and they stay pretty accurate. They are Air/Fuel ratio sensors, not airflow. The output is also read in current rather than voltage by the computer, but that's quibbling.

I used the clutch disk out of a 95 legacy L in an 02 WRX, so I know they interchange just fine. We had the engine out of the WRX and the legacy disk in my pile of parts had more life left on it than the WRX one so we tossed it in.

It's a reed switch in the speedometer head in the instrument cluster.

The early cars are either 4x4 or a fairly useless open center full time 4x4. The open center diff means that all the power will go to the wheel with the least traction. The center diff lock turns it into a normal 4x4. The pushbutton 4x4's are FWD or locked 4x4 like a truck. I believe you can use an EJ transfer housing and center diff on an EA transmission by swapping the countershaft and the pinion shaft to an EJ one. That's a lot of work just to keep the EA82t motor and have a reasonable AWD system. The wiring work to put an EA82t in is the same as putting in much more reliable and powerful EJ engines. It's a MPFI swap into a carbed car. If you want a turbo, use a ej22t from a 90-94 legacy. I'm pretty sure you'll be doing framerail notching whether you use a ea82 or an EJ22 in an ea71 engine bay. You can make the same power as a turned up turbo ea82 with a non-turbo EJ25 with EJ22 heads, plus it won't blow up if you look at it wrong. Use a turbo EJ engine and you can way exceed that. You can do the same amount of work to install a mediocre and unsupported by the aftermarket drivetrain or a modern engine with a huge aftermarket. The best would be to use a newer WRX wiring harness because the ECU's are fully cracked and can be used as a stand alone with open source tuning. Makes it really easy to make big power. You will have to notch the framerails quite a bit to fit the DOHC heads in though.

It's a seal that presses down into the bore in the transmission where the speedo shaft sticks up. Not an O-ring, a little lipped oil seal. Putting the new one in is easy, getting the old one out is pretty much impossible as far as I tried. Dealer should be able to find it under transmission parts.

No, a TS will be the non-turbo 2.5l right? It will be a push clutch, the slave cylinder is mounted to the engine side of the release fork. If it was a turbo, legacy ss, wrx, fxt, ect, then it will be a pull clutch and the slave cylinder will be mounted to the transmission side of the release fork. You can use a push clutch transmission in a pull clutch car, you just need to swap the pressure plate to go with it. I think, but am not sure the flywheel is the same. I know the clutch disks are.

The front end of the ranger uses a solid axle controlled by the two radius arms and the trac bar. The radius arms clamp around a diamond shaped area on the axle tube with rubber bushings. What limits flex on that design is the radius arms are clamped at the same angle to the axle and the only movement is the give in the rubber C bushings. If you make the radius arm longer, it puts more leverage on twisting the C bushings, so you get better flex. It works a lot like a sway bar, the axle can move up and down fine but it can't rotate one side higher than the other without binding on the bushings. On subarus, the radius arm just forms the triangle of the lower control arm. It doesn't limit flex at all because the lower ball joint and control arm bushing let the whole assembly move freely. Changing the length of the radius arm won't do anything but change the caster angle of the suspension. You'll also have to re-align the toe if you move the control arm forward.

The H072 rear end in your truck is gaining a bit of popularity as a stronger alternative to a ford 9" in the offroading and truck pulling communities. 4.56's are the most common ratio for them, but 4.11's are found and are handier for a street truck. Pretty cheap to grab the center section out of one in a junkyard.

Now that's looking great. Good work! How soon till you click "print" in metal do you think?

The contacts get burned up. There's a copper disk that slams into two copper tabs when the solenoid engages and they carry the current from the battery to the motor. There's a lot of arcing because it's a high current load and it burns the copper away over time. The disk gets thin and the tabs get big steps worn into them. Each time you turn the key and engage the solenoid, the plunger with the contact disk on it turns a little bit as it gets slammed down. Eventually it lines a slightly thicker spot up with the contact tabs and it works just enough for the starter to turn. That's why you get click, click, click, then it starts. Smacking it with a hammer only works if the brushes in the motor are worn out or stuck, which is not the problem. The hammer proves nothing. If you get a click from the engine bay of the solenoid working, then the key and ignition switch are working fine too. The issue is in the high current circuit, which is the battery cable to the starter and the starter itself. It's a bolt and two nuts to swap out the starter. Put a reman one in and stop worrying that you'll be stranded somewhere.

If you hear a solid click under the hood each time you turn the key but it doesn't crank the engine, the solenoid contacts are worn out. They are not hard to replace and for $15 and a little patience you can do them. You can also slap a rebuilt starter in, it's the same amount of work. The random no-start condition of worn out solenoid contacts creates a lot of superstitious red herrings on the part of the driver. I would assume the ignition is fine until you had the starter ruled out. You can replace just the ignition switch without changing the lock cylinder, but try the starter first. It's the main wear part in that system.

Nah, the bed that's on it works fine and the hydraulic liftgate is integrated into it.

You can often get away with tapping it to the next larger fractional size like a 1/2" bolt where a metric one was. Go easy tapping it though and use oil. The captured nuts are just spot welded to the body. If you break it loose, you'll be going through the floor from the inside with a hole saw so you can put a nut and washer in from the top.

Take apart the oil pump and bypass. If the oil light came on, it was because there wasn't pressure in the system. If your oil passages were clogged, there would be great pressure, just no flow. If the pickup screen in the pan was clogged with blast media, the bypass valve in the pump was stuck open from chunks of media, or the pump rotors or housing were trashed, then you wouldn't have pressure. With that much glass in the filter, you should be able to take some pretty pictures of the inside of the oil pump.

You will notice it. My tacoma sucks in sloppy mud or deep snow because it gets hung up. I've got 31's on it. I've had to use my subaru to drag the truck around to get it out before. I could drive the wagon around the truck breaking fresh tracks vs the truck being in established packed ruts and stuck. The wagon only had 29's on it. I've also had the wagon up trails that a fullsize 80's chevy couldn't make it up because their diffs were plowing a trench in the middle of the two ruts. That said, a solid axle is a lot stronger than the ifs and you can get better articulation out of them.

Nice! I've got a 56 GMC myself, 270ci six, sm420 4spd. It has a 58 chevy cab and nose on it and a custom bed with 73+ fenders, so it's a bit of a mutt. I've always liked the single headlight eggcrate grill trucks like yours better than the dual headlights like mine. You staying with the 235 or do you have something else planned? My six is coming out for a Caddy 500/th400/np205 combo that I have in the shed. When you do the brakes, switch to a dual circuit master. Power brakes would be even better and there's a kit sold for that. The brakes are gone on mine from sitting for 20 years and it was a bit sketchy driving across town with nothing but the handbrake on the back of the transmission.

Assuming having a machine shop work on the heads means you recently did a headgasket to it, the bearing damage is often due to overheating if someone let it run out of coolant. Having rod bearings go shortly after doing a headgasket on an overheated engine is unfortunately a common issue.

The EJ22 has EGR, right? Should have a stainless steel 1/2 dia pipe running up from the drivers side head to the intake manifold. If it doesn't, you'll get a Check Engine Light and a code for missing EGR when you plug it in where the 2.5l was.

Premium does nothing for MPG or power. It burns slower, so you may actually get less power. These older cars also won't advance the timing to take advantage of the higher knock threshold of premium, so you are literally pissing your money down the drain buying it. Unfortunately your MPG is limited by the 3spd auto. It has no overdrive and no lockup clutch on the torque converter, so a portion of the engines power is always being dumped into to the fluid as heat and the engine is screaming when you're on the highway. There's not much you can do but a 5spd swap.

Well, it's more work to swap the transmission and pedal box to put in a weaker FWD transmission than it is to fix the center diff. Installing the SubaSpool is the exact same amount of work and dissasembly as replacing the center diff, both of which can be done with the transmission still in the car. Either put in a new center diff or the FWD spool. If you go FWD, remove the axles from the rear wheels, leaving the CV cup still bolted into the hub. Removing the rear axles stops the rear differential and driveshaft from spinning which would eat up most of your MPG gain from going FWD.

I fit one from a Saab 9000 in the front of my GL-10 wagon. Inlet and outlet go under the lower radiator support, may be a clearance issue for you once lowered. I deleted the AC condenser, the hood latch, and put holes through the 86 front bumper behind the license plate to let some airflow through. I also had to trim the inside of the grill a bit so it wouldn't rub. I'd take pictures, but I'm 2,500 miles away from the car. If I can fit that in, you can fit a normal size one in. It was this intercooler: 16" tall x 25" wide, more at the inlet and outlet.

Yes, 3at is 23 spline turbo or not. The 5spd swap will make it a much better car because the 3at sucks something fierce. No overdrive, no lockup torque converter, and known for apple-coring the governor drive gear so it won't shift up on it's own anymore. You will get a better driving experience and improved MPG with the 5spd swap. If it had the later 4eat, I'd say keep it auto, but the 3at is junk. If you have a donor car there, the swap is pretty easy, just transferring components from one car to the other. The wiring is pretty simple, reverse lights, jumper for the start circuit, and the clutch switch for the neutral position input for the computer.

The EA82 has overhead cams because they were the thing to have at the time, not because they make the motor any better. You get timing belts that break at 60k and hydraulic lash adjusters that have chronic oiling problems and like to clatter. The EA81 is simpler, easier to work on, and has the same performance potential. The only advantage the EA82 had was fuel injection in it's later years, and the SPFI is nearly a bolt on swap for an EA81. Here's the guide that GD put together: http://www.leoneturbo.com/docs/EA81_SPI_guide.pdf

What year is your outback? What year is the 2.2l that was rebuilt?