WoodsWagon

The senders can get faulty, it's mounted under the alternator and it threads into the top of the block. More likely is that the phillips screws on the back of the oil pump have loosened up. If it's due for a timing belt/idler pulleys/water pump job it's easy to pull the oil pump off and fix it. Use loctite on the screws and run them back in. Some anerobic sealant on the block where the pump bolts to and a couple o-rings should do it.

Again, that's the joint being used to control axle rotation and placement, not to support the weight of the vehicle. That bracket mounts over the top of a solid axle differential and the coil overs would mount out on the axle tube, not on top of the links. As the axle tries to twist back or forward under power, the links and joints are being put in tension and compression, not side load. After doing some looking around, there's a few different ratings for rod ends. You've got static load in the radial and axial directions and dynamic load in both those. Static load is the max strength for it trying to hold something in position without it rotating, dynamic is the amount of load it can hold while rotating without wearing out prematurely. Axial load is the side loading of the joint, in line with the bolt hole going through it. Rod ends seem to average about 1/2 the static axial load rating of their radial load rating. So if your joint is rated to 28k static radial, then it's about or less than 14k static axial. Dynamic loads are rated less than static loads because they take wear into account. If you can find the dynamic load ratings of the upper joint you're using that would be good. Going from a chart SKF has, depending on the material of the joint the max dynamic load is anywhere from 1/3 to 2/3's of the static load.

The driveshaft didn't snap from torque bind, the joint wore out and slapped back and forth in the yokes until it wore a way out. The driveshaft was making a lot of noise for a long time before it let go. I saw it happen on a forester where the flailing shaft punched the whole shifter assembly up out of the center console, kinked the shift cable which jammed the transmission down into 2nd, and beat the hell out of the exhaust pipe. I saved the broken off slip yoke from that car because it works great for stopping oil from leaking out of the back of a transmission when you're pulling it. Does the AT temp light flash 16 times when you start the car? It may be just that the FWD fuse isn't making good contact, not that the Duty C is gone.

Not the water pump pulley but the cogged idler that bolts into the water pump. The timing belt does a 90 degree wrap around the idler before running over the water pump pulley, so that idler sees more stress than any other on the engine. I've had them seize and rip it's bolt and a chunk out of the waterpump and I've also had the bearing disintegrate so the idler was running metal on metal and grinding it's way into the oil pump pressure relief boss. Both cars came in running but making noise.

What method are you using to pull the codes? There's test, current codes and code history mode depending on how you hook the diagnostic connectors together. There should be a couple grounds attached to the intake manifold from the engine harness. Make sure they're clean and tight. There's another one between the top of the transmission and the firewall but it's less crucial. Then there's another between the battery negative terminal and the fender.

You can drive it home but avoid the freeway. You want to leave long stopping distances if the brakes are sketchy. You can rent engine lifts and if you have tools and a place to work on it the repairs are doable. You either put money into repairs on old cars or money into loan payments on new cars.

What are the 6 codes?

The wettest area appears to be the crossmember behind the oil pan. That's the rear oil seperator plate leaking and you have to pull the engine to get at it. The burning oil may be the oil leaking on to the catalytic converter and smoking off. If it is actually burning oil in the engine and blue smoke is coming out the tailpipe, don't bother with the car. Changing brake fluid won't fix weak brakes. Either a caliper is siezed or something else is wrong. If the brakes are dragging that could also account for the poor MPG. Is the body solid and rust free, even in side the rear wheel wells? They like to rust in the rear strut towers, the back end of the rocker panel, and the corner of the wheel arch where it meets the bumper. You're looking at about $500 in parts to fix it if you do the work yourself. Timing belt/waterpump/gaskets for when you pull the engine plus the brake work. If you have someone else do the work add at least $1k onto that. I wouldn't be surprised if it needs struts, another $600. If you can get the car cheap and do the work yourself, it's worth it.

It does fit:

If it's a legacy, it's a 4eat, not a 3at. I have not had luck fixing a weak reverse with transmission work you can do with it in the car. The 4eat's are pretty reliable though so it's easy to find a good one to replace it with in junkyard.

Dealerships certainly don't make their money on new car sales vs service anymore, but manufacturers are completely separate from the dealers. The manufacturer is still making it's money on the selling of new cars, not parts. That's why you get stuffing of the dealership's inventory, the manufacturer wants the cars on the dealership's floor plan financing to keep their bottom line going. I don't think cars are engineered to be service work generators. If they were, they'd be a lot easier to fit your hands and tools into and a lot less reliable. You can neglect the hell out of a modern car and it will give you 150k miles of service. Try that with a 70's car. There is planned obsolescence engineered in of course and cost saving measures, but they are not for the benefit of dealership service departments. Saying Subaru manufactures shoddy headgaskets to feed work to their dealerships is false.

I should have taken pictures, it was in a friends turbo legacy wagon that I 5spd swapped. The electronic VSS threads right into the transmission where the cable was and a twisted pair of wires replaces the speedo cable between the sensor and the speedo head. The hard part was fitting the speedo head into the legacy cluster. I used one out of a 98 forester because I had it handy. What I did was cut out the white plastic section that the contact screws to the speedo head went through on the Forester. Then I cut part of the same area out of the legacy cluster so I could fit the forester one in the same spot and face depth. The forester gauge face was a little smaller than the legacy one, so I had to use black electrical tape to cover a couple small gaps that the backlighting would have shone through, but it fit pretty well. I then used hot glue to bond the forester white plastic section to the legacy rear section. I had to run a jumper wire from a constant power source and ground on the back of the board to the speedo head by wrapping it around the other contact pins on the board. I was able to carefully cut the other traces that went to the legacy speedo for the VSS output to the ECU free from the printed circuit sheet and reposition them on the forester speedo. It wasn't that hard, just a bit of trimming and rewiring. I'll see if I can get him to take a picture of the cluster face, but the back section was where the technical work went on.

Sounds like the same thing that's accomplished by "o-ringing" a cylinder head. Basically a groove is cut into the cylinder head and a ring of piano wire is put in that crushes the headgasket in a ring around the cylinder. It's used in high-boost applications where the cylinder pressures are high enough to blow the headgasket out.

EJ20g in the westy for sure. Nothing like having a van known for being slow with a turbo. I like sleepers like that. EJ22 is plenty to make a wagon fun, the heavier van with much worse aerodynamics needs the extra power. Was your westy watercooled or are you converting it? You may be able to use the air ducts with a small fan for the intercooler.

Easiest way to get a 4.44 from a dealer is to spec a 2004 Forester xt 5spd. The ring and pinion set run $350 last I checked. 4.44 rear diffs are all over the place in auto trans Outbacks from a lot of years.

The rtv will just get balled up around the spinning shaft and do nothing. The problem is any oil that gets on the end of the speedometer cable is wicked up the spinning cable. It works like an archimedes screw pump. Try replacing the seal, it's like $10 from the dealer and if you can get the old one out pressing the new one in is easy.

The speedometer shaft seal is damn near impossible to remove, though at least on an automatic you can get a straight shot at it, it's blocked by the firewall on a manual. I gave up trying to replace it and switched to an electronic vss and speedometer head. Had to get a bit creative swapping it into the dash cluster, but at least no more oil dribbling down on your legs.

The seal that wraps around the rim of the thermostat is the right one. The paper flat gasket that goes between the housing and the waterpump surface is the wrong one. The rubber ring's tend to swell over time, I've had to put them in the freezer for an hour to get a used one to go back into it's groove in the waterpump.

I'll tell the story of an abused EJ25d. We bought the 98 Outback with 110k on it as a salvage car because it had been totaled by an engine fire. The odd part was that the fire hadn't been caused by any leaks on the engine and the hood liner was only burned in the area above the fire if the hood was open. The previous owner had poured gas on the engine and lit it on fire with the hood open, then called insurance. Why? Because the headgaskets were ridiculously blown. With the engine running you could hear at least one cylinder breathing through the radiator. It also had really bad piston slap. I didn't run it long enough to warm up because it couldn't hold coolant, so I assumed the piston slap would get better once it warmed up. It didn't. I should have put new pistons in but I just went with headgaskets. Fast forward 70k miles of tack tack tack as loud as a diesel but running well and getting good mpg to when it blows a cam seal out and dumps all its oil down the highway at 70mph. My mom pulls off at the next exit after the oil light comes on, walks to a gas station and picks up a couple quarts of oil to toss in, and drives it to the nearest shop. They replace the cam seal and do a timing belt water pump for $1200. I find out about this after it went down, for $1200 she could have had a 2.2l in there. Would have been nice if she asked my advise. I warn her it could chuck a rod at any time and it was foolish to dump money into that engine. 4k miles later it's still running. It's one of those 2.5's that just won't die, no matter how abused and neglected it is.

I will second this. The rear trailing arms mount to the underside of the floor in front of the rear wheel wells. When these bushings wear out (and I've seen it on cars up to a 2002 so far) the handling gets really sketchy. Had one mid 90's legacy that was a drifters dream because both sides were completely worn out. Come into a corner on a dirt road and do anything sudden with the throttle or brakes and that car was sideways.

A front bumper from a 1985-86 Gl will bolt on to the loyale and fix the fat lip look. Look for the same body style as your car in the junkyard, doesn't matter if it's a coupe, wagon, or sedan, and find one with the turn signals flush with the front of the bumper instead of recessed in pockets like yours are. The fat lip bumper is due to the 5mph crash ratings requiring more metal and styrofoam in the bumper. The 90hp engine that the loyale has is pretty gutless, the car will top out right around 100mph. The upside is that they don't make enough power to hurt themselves so they go for ever. There's a reason the engine swap from a legacy into a loyale is so popular. One other thing to check for is the plastic rectangle that says SPFI that fits into the top of the rubber intake tube that goes from the airbox to the throttle body. If that is missing the rubber tube can collapse at higher engine rpms and choke the engine's power.

Timing belt and waterpump kits are pretty cheap for these motors and it's a job you can do in your driveway. I'd replace the PCV valve on the intake with a new subaru one and make sure the hoses between it and the block are clear of carbon deposits. That may be your light oil consumption issue, especially if you're not seeing any smoke. A reasonable EJ22 pulled out of a junkyard for you is going to cost at least $300. You can buy a lot of oil for that.

What type of GL is this that's AWD? It it a 4spd auto or manual?

If you're going through the work of putting in a cooling system and buying adapters, go to fuel injection. Heck, even VW made the switch back in 1968 and 44 years later my type3 was still running good. With the crappy ethanol gas that's sold these days, it's getting harder and harder to keep a carbed car reliable. A 90-98 2.2l will fit best because the smaller SOHC heads tuck into the engine bay with a minimum of trimming.

The bolt holes don't have to be perfect, as the bolts don't transfer the power of the engine to the flywheel. They just clamp the flywheel to the end of the crank, and it's the friction between the surface of the crank and the surface of the flywheel that does the work.