WoodsWagon

I had a 99 forester like that, all the dash warning lights would stay on even when the key was out. What it turned out to be was the wiring harness going to the ABS pump. It had been hit in the right front and the harness was severed. The body shop had twist'n'taped the cut wires back together with duct tape, then wrapped the harness in electrical tape to hide the damage. Their splices had failed an it was backfeeding power to the dash. Took an evening of soldering and shrink tubing to get it right again.

The VSS is a reed switch in the speedometer head in the instrument cluster. Are your cruise buttons on the dash or on the steering wheel?

The main advantage to the SPFI is it's simplicity and reliability. All the SPFI's I have ever dealt with have run, no matter how long or where they were abandoned for. The MPFI's not so much. My 86 Turbo runs when it wants to. You won't see much of a power or mpg gain for the work invested to go just MPFI. You will see a power gain if you do the whole turbo swap, but the reliability drops. The work of doing a swap would be better invested in putting in a later EJ series engine. The base 1.8l in a early 90's impreza made the same power as your 86 turbo 1.8, just without the turbo. 110hp vs 111 hp. That's how much better the 16 valve engines are over the 8 valve.

The pump only comes on for a few seconds after you turn the key to run position, then shuts off if the engine isn't turning. That is if you wired in the fuel pump relay and run it using the ECU. If you have the test mode connectors, you can plug them together and the ECU will cycle the pump on and off. You should have a lot more than a trickle when you turn the key on, fuel should hose out of there. I've had good luck with the $100 F-150 frame rail mounted high pressure pumps from the 80's EFI trucks.

What makes you think it needs a cam? Toss a bottle or two of "subaru coolant conditioner" in the radiator for the coolant leak.

This was from a few years back when I cleaned a vw bug, a pinto, and a chevette out of a local offroading spot where they'd been dumped. I brought in a generator and sawzall and cut the chevette in half to haul it out. The vid's are of the rear half getting pulled up the second section of "rollover hill" and up onto the railroad bed. It's a nasty loose sand/gravel hill with a trail junction partway up that tends to pull trucks down sideways. Probably keep your volume down as the exhaust was pretty loud on the car at that point. 2.2l, D/R 5spd, 4" PK lift 235/75r15 BFG's on a 92 loyale. Hauling junk out of the woods is some of the most fun you can have wheeling. I probably pulled thousands of pounds of trash and scrap out with that car.

Did it run low on oil and the lifters collapsed? I'm not seeing how a loose valvecover causes dead cylinders.

It may be throwing the VSS code just because it isn't moving and generating a VSS signal. It will run fine with no vss. Could be a fuel pump issue, but check pressure before going out and throwing one in. Could also be a MAF sensor issue, or a weak ignition system. But check fuel pressure first. I'm gonna ignore your wiseass comment because you're obviously stressed out by this issue.

Looks like you'd have to notch the normal EJ bellhousing mating surface on the passenger side to fit the starter. EJ's don't have a bulge on both sides.

Yeah, but advancing cams usually helps low end at the expense of top so it probably feels more punchy at low rpms.

Here's the specs me and my father measured and machined my adapter plate to. All numbers are in inches, as that's what our Bridgeport uses. I've got a bigger version of the picture, 6mb, but nowhere to host it. I've also got an Excel file of all the measurements, but here's the summary of the final hole coordinates as shown in the pic: Item X coordinate Y coordinate Size Trans T-2 Dowel -0.979 6.300 0.315 (8mm) T-3 Bolt 1.449 9.737 T-4 Bolt 9.044 9.742 T-6 Dowel 11.461 2.359 0.315 (8mm) Engine E-2 Dowel -1.727 5.078 0.394 (10mm) E-3 Bolt 1.057 9.960 E-4 Bolt 9.422 9.966 E-5 Dowel 12.209 3.580 0.394 (10mm) Both E1/T1 Stud 0 0 0.394 (10mm) E6/T7 Stud 10.472 0 0.394 (10mm) Shaft/Crank 5.241 4.329 I leave the bolt hole sizes up to you as there's a couple ways you can go depending on the material you make the plate out of. You can make them the right size to tap and thread bolts into of whatever diameter you chose, or connect the two holes and use a siamesed stud pair like I did. The plate outline itself is easy to make once you have the holes drilled. Just slap the plate on the engine and trace around it and slap it on the transmission after spraying wet paint on the trans so it transfers an outline. Then sawzall or torch it out to match. Plate is 1/2" thick or 12mm depending on who you ask. I did 1/2". Flywheel bolt pattern needs to be redone, you can bring both to a machine shop and have them match the pattern or DIY with a file or grinder. The EA pattern is weird because they wanted the flywheel to only bolt up one way so the timing marks would be in the right place.

The crank and cam sensors read off those sprockets, so it advances the ignition timing as well.

I used an adjustable one that was designed to be glued to a flat surface on the dash of my Loyale. Got it from pepboys. Stick a bottle in it and place it where the bottle doesn't hit the windshield and stick it down. Worked great for 3 years.

What problem do you have and what code is the ECU spitting out? It sounds like you're just throwing parts at it.

You can get the rear one at the base of the shifter by removing the shifter surround and boot and working from the top. The ones down at the transmission are the hard ones to replace because of that goddamned roll pin in a roll pin and the shifter yoke seizes to the shifter shaft most of the time. If you get all the bushings replaced, the shifter will feel much better. Hard to go into reverse is normal, just let the car roll back or forward an inch and it will slip in. As for second grinding, just don't shift as fast. It's a 17 year old car, it will probably die of rust in CT before the transmission breaks.

Are you sure it's a headgasket and not a leaking intake manifold gasket? Is exhaust burbling out the radiator cap, or is coolant steam coming out the tailpipe? That's actually a really nice car. It's got the 4eat, which is a much better transmission than the earlier 3at, and it's in remarkably good shape inside and out. It would be worth fixing.

As far as it being dangerous, well not too much. As long as you don't have an exhaust leak right next to the tank, it should be fine. My mom's been driving hers at less than 3/4 tank for a couple years now because it's leaking in the same place as yours. The tank rusts through where the filler neck nipple is welded on to it. If you pull the access plate up on the passenger side, you can look down at the tank where the big filler hose joins on. See if it's wet around that. The tanks are a real PITA to pull out of these, you have to drop the diff, exhaust and rear crossmember. Carry a fire extinguisher if it worries you, and don't fill it over half.

99 has an 8 bolt bellhousing, 95 has a 4 bolt. You will need to do something for the lower starter mount bolt, but other than that it bolts up.

There is a MAP sensor on MAF cars, it's mounted to the passenger side strut tower and has a vacuum hose running from the intake manifold over to it. They could have screwed up the hose routing during the swap. The hose runs over to a vacuum switching valve, and then a short piece of hose between that and the MAP sensor. The VSV switches the vacuum signal to the MAP sensor between manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure. There are no OBDII issues generated by a DOHC 2.5l to phase1 SOHC 2.2l swap if the EGR system is retained, AKA the 2.2l came from an auto trans car. The cat code (I'm assuming P0420) could be caused by a faulty front 02 sensor. You can "fix" it using a drilled out spark plug anti-fouler on the rear sensor to fool the computer, but try replacing the front sensor first.

Yeah, must have you confused. Thought for sure someone on here was in bearings, and I thought it was you. I've gotten the koyo # but it doesn't seem to interchange with anything else. I've got a true-trac carrier to go in, but I'm hesitant to spend $100 on 2 bearings.

If you put in just the diff, all you have to set is backlash. Subaru also makes it easy by using threaded carrier bearing housings, so you don't have to wongleflute with shims. I hate shims. If the transmission isn't making any bearing noises or shifting poorly, you can justify splitting the case just to put a diff in. It's not hard and as long as you keep everything where it came from and the bearings lined up with the pegs in the case, it goes smoothly. As far as early 00's outbacks with vlsd's, I've pulled them out of 4cyl ones and 6cyls, the only ones that for sure don't have them are VDC models, they use the abs to do fancy things so they have an open diff to keep from interfering with that.

I seized the rear diff in my tacoma within 3k miles of putting Mobil 1 Synthetic in it. Let it cool off and it made it the rest of the way to my destination. Changed the Mobil 1 out (still full to the top, just filled with metal particles) and put cheapo coastal in. Drove it a thousand miles to california, changed with coastal again, and drove it a thousand miles back. So thats 2k miles and counting on a trashed diff with coastal in it, and 3k miles from a perfectly good diff to a trashed one with Mobil 1 synth. I've got a pretty high opinion of Coastal Crap right now. Speaking of which GD, are you still in the bearings industry? I need carrier bearings for said smoked diff and the only ones I can find are dealer only $45 apiece.

A lot of the 00-04 Legacy Outbacks had rear VLSD's in them. They are a pretty weak LSD though, not much lockup even with a lot of wheel spin. Better than nothing though. You have to check if it's a VLSD by turning one tire and seeing which direction the other turns. If it easily spins the opposite direction, it's an open diff. If it tries to turn the same direction until the driveline slop is gone and then turns the other direction with resistance, it's a VLSD. Don't pay more than $50 for one. If you're building a franken motor, you might consider taking the transmission apart and putting an OBX helical front diff in. It will make a much bigger difference than a VLSD rear will.

A fully charged lead-acid battery at rest should be 12.6v. By the time it gets down to 12v it's like 75% discharged. The alternator will try to pull the system voltage up over 14v, but if the battery is discharged it will be a high load on the system so 13v may be normal. Does it go up to 14v if you bring the engine RPM's up to about 2,500? I've had batteries marginal to the point where I had to put the headlights on for a minute to warm the battery up so it would have enough CCA to start the truck. Never had one where the extra load of an accessory was enough to reliably prevent it from cranking.

Yup, used lucas miracle in a bottle on a friends kid's misubishi 3.0l v6 that he had run on less than a quart of oil for a month. It would make bad rapping noises, so he'd toss a quart of oil in it and drive it until it made bad noises again. Never bothered to check the dipstick. I fixed the leaking front main, put a quart of Lucas and the rest normal oil and it held together for the rest of the time he had it. Funny follow up to that was it started leaking like a sieve a few months after that. He had gotten in the habit of tossing a quart of oil in it every now and then and never checking the dipstick. Well, since I fixed the leak he had filled it near to the valve covers with oil. Damn kid.