WoodsWagon

Either the lower lateral link bolts on both sides have to come out or the diff has to come out to get the axles out of the hubs. Since the lateral link bolts are usually a whore to get out, and the diff is going to be surplus, it makes sense to pull the diff to get the axles out. They're closer to 50lbs I'd say just from hefting them around.

Fastest way would be to cut the rear axles off with a torch right where they go into the CV joint at the hub end on both sides in the back, then pull the rear section of drive shaft and the differential. Leave the front section with the carrier bearing in as a plug for the rear of the transmission. Pull the FWD fuse out so the light goes off on the dash.

They are undesirable because at some point in your ownership of the car, you will have your head partway out the window when you open the door. The belt will then grab you by the neck and drag you down toward the dash. This may happen multiple times over the years, with the humiliation of "I should have known better" getting stronger each time. They are unsafe because the shoulder belt is the only automated part, you still have to do the lap belt manually. It's harder to grab just a lap belt, and it's easier to forget to put it on since you already have the shoulder belt on. When you get in a wreck, the missing lap belt will let you submarine under the shoulder belt, leading to neck injuries and burying your knees in the dash. The systems themselves are pretty reliable. The ones in my loyale would get flaky for a bit after a submersion, but go back to normal operation once the wiring dried out.

My 92 OBD-1 EJ22 ecu limited it to 6,750 rpms. The SPFI ecu had no rev limiter, and the EA82 would rev to valve float.

You use a big floor jack to lift it an end at a time from the front crossmember and the rear diff, and put jack stands under the 4 lift points on the rocker panels. Running it in the air is dangerous enough, don't have it sitting on a hydraulic jack or worse a scissor jack.

No real reliability advantage in the phase 2 ej22's over phase 2 EJ25's though. I've seen them chuck rods unprovoked.

If you look at Numchux's ea-ej guide, you'll notice that the picture of the adapter plate is the one I machined out at home on the Bridgeport out of scrap aluminum. So... being intimately familiar with adapting the two, why would I recommend using an EJ FWD 5spd? It's a cleaner swap. You use standard EJ clutch parts, not mix and match, the drivetrain bolts together properly so anyone can work on it using a standard book. The CV axles should fit right on, a FWD impreza was 23 spline like a FWD loyale. You could probably reuse the EA shift linkage on the EJ FWD trans, or adapting the EJ linkage to the EA body is pretty straight forward. Same with the transmission cross member. Two easily changable parts that can be put together in a non-precise manner and are hidden under the car.

It would be better to find a legacy or impreza 2wd 5spd and swap it into the loyale with your 2.2l than try to adapt the EA 5spd to it. Little bit more work with the transmission crossmember and shifter, but shouldn't be complicated. Much better than an adapter plate and redrilled flywheel. A used EJ FWD trans would probably be cheaper too. 4th and reverse are definitely transmission issues. If the diff or TC was gone, you wouldn't have any gears. You can use an AWD 4eat if you have a hard time finding a good 2wd one in a junkyard.

I don't think any legacy's came with the 3at... The FWD 5spd is in the Loyale, the supposedly dead FWD 4eat is in the Legacy, which is why he wants to swap the EJ22 into the Loyale.

What's actually wrong with the auto trans in the legacy? Did you pull any codes from the TCU?

Had the same thing happen to me a few years back, as the joint seized up it started shaking the steering wheel something fierce, I though a wheel was coming off. I repacked the CV joint with wheel bearing grease, duct-taped a bread bag around it to serve as a boot, and made it the last 150 miles home.

Replacement joints are available from Rockford Driveline. They take a bit more work because the stock ones are staked in instead of held in by clips, so you have to grind a bit to clean things up, but the Rockford ones work well. If you ignore it and the joint breaks, the flailing end of the driveshaft can cause a lot of damage. I had a friend get the whole shifter punched up through the center console when the front-most joint broke on his Forester.

No, you don't need one to use the clutch, it's just there to keep the clutch fork from rattling. They often fatigue, break, and fall off of their own accord and no one notices.

I was with a friend when he did that with his WRX. I told him the ruts were pretty deep under the pond and it was stupid idea. Well, he went for it and got high centered in the ruts while under water. The computer is down on the floor and it shut down the engine when it submerged, and after we dragged the car out it still wouldn't start. I took the computer out and apart, washed the mud off the board in a sparking mountain stream, dried it on the dash of my truck and it fired back up. A couple traces were burnt off the board though and it hasn't been quite the same since. With my loyale, I used to have to wait for the floorpans to fill with water so it would sink and grab traction. Much better to have the computer tucked up under the dash than down on the floor.

That's a 3-door coupe, not a hatch. Mine had rust, lots of rust.

To post a picture in a thread, you need it hosted online somewhere. So either the USMB gallery, some other sites gallery, or a picture hosting service. You've got that part down. Now, right click on the image where you have it hosted and select "copy image location". Then when you're writing the post, take a look at the formatting bar over the text box. The third icon from the right on the bottom row looks like a picture of mountains with a sun over them. Click on that and paste the image location into the popup window that opens. It will then insert your image into the text box where the cursor was. You will want to resize your pictures before you do this or they will come out huge.

The amount of gas in the oil diluted it to the point that the engine spun over like it had no compression, so I bet the lifters collapsed all the way too. I've had a few instances of engines that have sat for a while having the fuel varnish on the valve stems cause the valves to stick partway open. I had a pushrod drop off it's rocker on a GMC 270ci six, 3 pushrods bend in a Ford 331 industrial, then another bend the next season (I have a pack of spares now), and the rockers drop out in the turbo wagon. The common thread on all those engines is old/bad gas. I think the computer in the 86 T-wagon is shot because it will run great for the first 20-30 minutes after you hook the battery up, then go into a default mode where it cycles the injectors on about a 50% duty cycle and shuts everything else off. The engine will keep idling when it does this because manifold vacuum is enough to pull fuel from the tank, but it stalls under load. Unhook the battery and leave it off for a month, it will fire right back up again. Either the memory is unstable or a capacitor is shorting or something. It's EJ time for that car.

The EA82t in my 86 leaked gas into the intake enough to dilute the oil and make the valves stick. 2 or 3 of the rockers fell out. It's a POS and has computer issues as well, so I didn't really care about it but I needed it to move around under its own power. With vigorous prybar, hammer, and screwdriver action and the use of appropriate words it is possible to get the rockers back in without removing anything but the valvecovers. You may not like the collateral damage though.

The clutch doesn't apply until you start opening the throttle. With it up on the jackstands, give it a rev and see if the rear drive suddenly engages. That's pretty normal operation for the AT, it's a FWD transmission with supplemental rear drive.

You won't get any more power because the stock airbox is used in 300+ hp turbo subaru's. You may also have MAF sensor problems because of oil mist coming from the K&N filter element coating the sensor wire. If you want more intake noise, take off the intake muffler inside the fender. You get at it by pulling down the plastic wheel well liner.

Here's a guy in the area parting out his turbo wagon: http://nh.craigslist.org/pts/2760731490.html Parts are available. Things like hoses and such are best bought through a dealer because used ones will be just as brittle as the ones on the car.

If it's a 5spd and the rockers aren't rotted out, it's probably worth getting. Main problems with those is rubber hoses cracking. The PCV hoses and all coolant hoses will break if you touch them. The composite plastic coolant tank on the intake manifold is probably ready to disintegrate if it hasn't been replaced yet. All these parts are available from the dealer. Best place to ask about turbo legacys is http://bbs.legacycentral.org/

Auto transmission? If it is, it's probably smoked or will be soon. The "grounding issue" may be a ruse to cover this. Rust in the rocker panels starting at the rear wheel wells and above the rear bumper at the rear wheel wells. They are fun cars, but don't expect turbo-subaru power out of them without a lot of modification.

22 around town, 28 on the highway.

It's rigged, and that's a steel sign post.