WoodsWagon

The EZ30 would be the best fit. As is clear from the pictures of the russian coupe the EG33 leaves no space for the radiator.

Do not run it on whatever gas is left in it unless you like un-sticking intake valves and putting rocker arms back in.

Start drilling from the opposite side. Then use a punch to drive the snapped extractor out of the bolt. Then go up in drill size and clear the whole bolt out of there, get a longer bolt and nut combo to replace it. If you've drilled off center, drill as big as you can go without hogging the hole out in the knuckle, then use a punch or chisel to drive the remains of the bolt sideways into your hole and then out. You can also use a cut-off wheel to go in through the slit in the knuckle to cut the bolt in half, then you only have to drill the threaded side out. You've learned the harsh lesson of bolt extractors, they never work on a bolt you snapped the head off of trying to loosen. They will work on bolts you snap the heads off of trying to tighten, and they sometimes work on stuck bolts if you heat the bolt glowing hot with a torch before trying to extract it. But mostly they're just a waste of time and a much bigger aggravation if you snap them off in the hole.

Most likely it's the oil separator plate, part of the PCV system that's inside the bellhousing. They leak all the time, rear mains rarely do. The rear main is also hard to get pressed back into the block straight, so if it's not leaking it's best to leave it be rather than try replacing it and having the new one not go in straight.

They sell trailer light converter boxes for wiring cars with seperate brake and turn bulbs into a combined brake/turn trailer output. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-74209-Trailer-Converter/dp/B0008G1NNY There's powered and non powered ones. The powered ones cost more and require an extra fused wire run direct from the battery, but they isolate the trailers wiring from the car, so if something shorts out on the trailer it doesn't burn up the lighting circuits in you car. The non-powered ones work fine for the most part but you are adding the electrical load of however many bulbs are on the trailer onto your cars lighting circuits. They are simpler to wire in.

Cable vs hydro really doesn't compare well between different car designs, there's so much variability in the strength of the clutch pressure plate springs and the amount of mechanical leverage offered through the clutch linkages. Comparing my Tacoma to my sisters Civic for example, both are hydro clutches, but the pedal effort is very different! I will say that the older and more worn a clutch is, often the stiffer the pedal gets. Some of that is the grease drying up on the linkage, but most of it is the pressure plate spring. As the disk wears the spring fingers move to a steeper and steeper angle, and I think that makes it harder for the throwout bearing to push them down. That's my theory at least, but I've noticed on a number of cars that I've done nothing but replace the clutch on that they were way easier to release than before. The 95 and 96 legacys that we have with cable clutches are nice and easy, but I replaced the clutches on both of them in the last few years. The 03 outback with a hydro clutch is noticably stiffer, and I did the clutch in that one a couple years ago too. The only disadvantage to a cable clutch is needing to manually adjust it. I would put a new release fork in with the new clutch, lube the pivot and the inside of the throwout bearing with synthetic brake caliper grease, and keep using the cable clutch. They work great when everything is working as designed.

Undo the pitch stopper rod on top of the bellhousing and tilt the whole engine and transmission down a bit now that you have the trans crossmember off

If you put the car in gear, push the clutch in, and then try to start it, does it try to jerk the car forward or does it start normally? If you crush the pilot bearing on installation it can create enough drag to keep the transmission from shifting into gear, but not enough to move the car. Otherwise, if you can see the fork moving and it isn't disengaging, it might be the clutch disk in backwards, even though you swear it isn't... Did it say flywheel or engine side on the hub anywhere?

Lot of those phase2 EJ25's have scuffing on the top side of the cylinders due to leaking headgaskets and the coolant level in the block dropping below the top of the cylinders. If you can still see the crosshatching and the scoring isn't too deep, I'd run it as is rather than boring it. It will probably use some oil, but not enough to cause problems. That was a 200k+ mile 2004 EJ25 with blown headgaskets that was run that way for a while. I put it together as you see it in the pictures and it ran fine, quiet, and burns 1qt in 1500 miles on the highway, none around town. I honed one cyl a bit just to crosshatch the polished area of it, and I cutout a cardboard plug to hold the rod centered in the bottom of the cyl while I 3 stone hone'd it. 3 years later it's still running well. Main thing is how it sounded before you took it apart. If it had audible piston slap, it's worth putting new pistons in (but I still wouldn't bother paying for boring and honing). If not, take the oil rings off the pistons and clean out the groove and all the drain holes as there's usually a bunch of carbon baked on and clogging that up. Most of these cars rust out before fatal engine problems kill them around here. So it's not really worth rebuilding them to perfect when good enough will do fine for the rest of the cars life. Add to that a lot of machine shops inexperience with subaru engines will either make the cost of work high or the quality low, and sometimes it's better to just toss it together and call it a day as is. I do regret not putting pistons in a 98 EJ25d that had been badly and repeatedly overheated with massively blown headgaskets. It had bad piston slap when I got it but the gaskets were so blown that it was puffing exhaust out the radiator so I didn't run it long enough to see if the piston slap would get less when it warmed up. I gambled that it would, and it didn't. I had to listen to them slap for the next 80k miles but it ran great so I wasn't going to take it apart again.

Here's the bolt hole layout that we came up with when I made my plate. It slipped right into place and I used it on 2 engines and a slew of transmissions. The only really important holes are the dowel pins. The rest can be made sloppy unless you are threading the plate at the top holes. I made offset studs rather than try threading and having exact length bolts. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/126757-ej2ea-adapter-bolt-layout-measurments/

If you bought the calipers loaded with the mounting brackets, and the larger diameter rotors for the legacy 2.5gt, then it should go on fine. If you try to use the rotors meant for a base model legacy, then the pads in the dual piston caliper brackets may overhang the outer edge of the rotor. Brake hoses may also be different between the single and dual piston calipers, it depends on how it mounts at the caliper. Since you are doing both sides, make sure you put the new calipers on the right sides. The bleeder screw should be at the highest point on the caliper so the air bubble that rises to the top of the fluid filling the caliper can be bled out the screw. Any time you open the hydraulic part of the brake system, it must be bled. That's not personal preference. Personal preference bleeding would be if you were just compressing back the calipers as part of a pad replacement.

There's two styles of tensioner, a cylinder that's held on with two bolts and moves it's piston horizontally to push on a tab on the idler pulley, and one that's integral to the arm the idler pulley mounts to and it's piston moves vertically. The first style you compress in a vice, the second style you compress in a vertical press (I use a drill press). With both of them you just gently pull on the handle and the tensioner will slowly give and compress. The problem comes when people try to compress them too fast and crank down tight on them, it blows the seals out inside the tensioner. The spring is still there, so it will tighten the belt, but all the shock dampening is gone, so the tensioner will flap back and forth as the engine runs. That can lead to skipping the belt, and it often sounds like rod knock as the tensioner pounds back and forth. Line the belt up by the small tic marks on the rim of the pulleys and the crank sensor pickup tooth, not by the big arrows on the front of the pulleys. At least the heads are easy to pull on that one. The DOHC's are a PITA. I'd be tempted to price a pair of heads from a junkyard before paying for new valves. 96-98 2.2l's will match, 90-95 will if you also use the exhaust Y pipe from a 95 2.2l or a 96-99 2.5l.

I hang out in Lander ever couple years. Are you over in Pinedale or Jackson? What's your intent with the Forester, backcountry travel?

Yeah, that's not the usual pulley wobble caused by a loose crank bolt that trashes the keyway, crank snout and timing sprocket. That's just a failed harmonic dampener. Put a new one one, torque the crank bolt properly so you don't end up with the usual loose crank bolt damage, and go on your way. I would take off the timing belt covers and wipe any metal shavings off of the cam and crank sensors though. I've seen missfire codes from too much metal packed up on them, they are magnetic so it sticks to the tip of the sensor. I wouldn't try removing the sensors because they are often rusted into their holes and break to pieces if you try to take them out, just clean them in place.

Ever heard the term "Buyer Beware"? It applies especially well to buying a used car. There's no lemon law, there's no warranty, and it's up to the buyer to be informed enough to not purchase a junker. "Sold As Is" means exactly that, spot whatever problems you can before you buy, because once you pay for it, you own all the problems too. If you want the protection the laws provide, buy from a dealer, not just some guy off the street. But there's a price premium for that protection, which you clearly weren't willing to pay since you did buy from a private seller. That doesn't leave you much ground to complain when the risk you ran didn't work out. Since you don't believe in personal responsibility, and you appear to embrace being a victim, maybe you should take the safe route in life and only buy brand new cars. At least that way you'll have a service writers shoulder to cry on while that perfect, problem free, new car is being fixed under warranty. Your throwing around of pseudo legal terms and accusing me of being of questionable morals is pretty pathetic by the way.

That's called a title skip, and the state actually doesn't like that. They want the car flipper to title the car in their name and pay the tax on it while they own it, then the customer to title it in their name and pay tax again. You sound bitter about your car and are trying to blame it on the people you bought it from. In that context, referencing them as Puerto Ricans borders on racist. You own a car that's at least 16 years old, it's going to have failures, and you're going to be responsible to pay for repairs, that's the deal when you buy old cars out of warranty. Whining about it and trying to blame other people is immature. Trying to sic the tax man on the people you bought it from is a douche move.

What engine/transmission combo? With 32" tires it won't be much fun to drive if it's the stock powertrain.

The more offset on the wheels, the more you will have to beat in the front corner of the rocker panel and wheel well and trim the fender back to nothing at the corner of the door. I had to beat the floor in to the point the clutch pedal would hit it when pressed when I ran the 30" tires on aftermarket chevy wheels. If you run wheels that keep the tire tucked in close to the spring seat of the strut, you have to beat the body back much less. However you will still rub on the "framerail" as it is at full lock with 235/75's if you have the suspension flexed out. Not enough to be a bother though, it will just polish the paint off in that spot. I really liked my mitsubishi Mighty Max/ Dodge d50 4x4 minitruck wheels. They were tough and had the perfect offset. What engine are you running? 235/75's also reduce the gearing compared to smaller tires, so you need more torque to turn them.

It's more of a diagnostic test than a fix, the grease is gone in the joint so it will seize up again. It's time to replace the coupler now that you know it's the culprit.

That's a Brat on a 66-77 Early Bronco frame. They used the ford running gear too, the 302 fit in the Brat engine bay.

Spray the U joints in the steering shaft with penetrating oil (not WD40) and spin the wheel lock to lock a few times. Make sure all 4 of the bearings in each joint get soaked in oil, you want to spray it on the cross inside the joint, not on the outside of the caps. If the steering eases up for a week, then you know the U joints are the culprit. I've never seen a rack fail. I've seen a bunch of the column connector joints bind up, and they do just what you described, the wheel feels stiff, then loose, then stiff again as you turn it.

You probably have other mounts that are worn out, like the engine or transmission mount. The pitch stopper by itself doesn't do a ton of work. The only time I bent one was by crushing an oil pan on a rock. The other thing that can cause a lurch when getting on or off the gas is backlash in the driveline. If your inner CV joints are worn out it can do that. I've had the aftermarket tripod joint CV's spit out the needle bearings between the rollers and the tripod inside the joint. It still drove fine, and didn't vibrate, but there was extra backlash. The radius rod bushings in the front suspension can do that also, but they usually make the car pull to one side or the other at the same time as the lurch. To check for what's moving too much, set the parking brake on hard and chock block the wheels from both directions. Then try loading the engine in forward and reverse while you have an assistant watch to see which way the engine and transmission twist and by how much. Don't run them over!

I'd run the engine to warm it up, pull the spark plug out of the dead cylinder, rotate the crank until it's partway up the compression stroke, and fill the cylinder with seafoam/marvel mystery oil through the spark plug hole. Then leave it for a couple hours or longer. Pile a bunch of rags over the spark plug hole and crank the engine over to blow out all the oil in the cylinder, put the plug back in, and go beat the hell out of the engine. Hard acceleration, hard engine braking. If that doesn't free the rings, you have to take it apart and do it mechanically. My sister's civic flooded out this past winter. The spark plugs were worn out, and she cranked it until the battery was dead, so a lot of fuel got washed in without being lit. She then left it buried in snow for a couple months. When I went to check it out in the spring, it had no compression. It spun over so easy with the starter that I thought the timing belt was broken. I oiled the cylinders and put new plugs in and it fired up, but burned a ton of oil. I got it hot, sucked seafoam into the intake, and let it sit for an hour, then beat the piss out of it. Voila! No more oil burning. The rings were all gummed from sitting soaked in gas for a couple months, and the seafoam was able to free them.

Depends on how hard the piston smacked the head while the rod was coming apart. I would assume if it had an oiling issue bad enough for it to chuck a rod, the cam journals in the heads are probably pretty badly scored. You won't know if they are savable until you tear the engine down. They are roller cam hydraulic lash adjuster heads. I think 95 was the only year for them, because in 96 or 97 they went to the screw adjusters, and 94's were a non-roller cam. Not that much of that matters, any 89-98 2.2l will run fine in it if you swap the intake over and the exhaust y pipe if it's a 96-98.

97 GT will have a hydro clutch I think, so you will need to move the pivot ball and replace the throwout fork with the cable clutch one to use that transmission in the earlier car. Or convert the firewall/pedalbox to hydro clutch. I personally prefer the feel of a cable clutch. But yes, trans and rear diff should swap in. The VSS unthreads and the speedo cable threads in where it went. The rear axles may require a bit of mix and match, I forget when they went from having stubs that stuck out of the differential to having the axles plug into the differential. Between the two cars you should have all the parts needed to make it work.