WoodsWagon

Do a search for "torque bind". If the fluid in the transmission is never changed, it doesn't let the AWD clutch pack slip normally like it's meant to in a turn. That makes it bind up and act like a 4x4 truck instead of AWD. If your AT Temp or Power light is flashing on the dash 16 times every time you start the car, you have a failed Duty C AWD solenoid in the transmission. If it isn't flashing, then changing the fluid a few times should fix it. There's a 17mm drain plug on the sheetmetal transmission pan, and you fill it through the red handled dipstick on the drivers side of the car. There's also a drain plug on the front differential that's much bigger and goes into cast aluminum, and it's dipstick is a yellow loop handle one on the passenger side of the transmission. Don't try filling the transmission through that one, it takes gear oil instead of ATF. A lot of transmissions have been ruined by people draining the wrong compartment and overfilling the other, so make sure you're doing it right. So drain and refill the transmission pan with Dex/merc ATF (usually 4-5 qts of fluid per change), drive it around for a bit, change the fluid again, drive it some more, and change it again. You can only change a portion of the fluid in the transmission per drain and refill, so changing it 3 times swaps out most of the old oil with fresh. The fresh fluid should stop the binding. Your legacy is also a "New Gen" car, and questions about it should be posted in the New Gen forum, rather than Old Gen.

Loosen the bellhousing bolts first to take the pressure off of the torque converter. Seperate the bellhousing a 1/4" and it should turn freely.

The nice thing about subarus is that if the flywheel disintegrates, the shards don't come into the passenger compartment. A lot of other cars have the flywheel inline with the drivers ankles, so when they frag, the pieces come through the floor and cut the drivers feet off. That's why SFI approved scattershields are required on high RPM drag race engines.

The wiring to swap an EA82T into a loyale will be almost exactly as difficult as the wiring to swap an EJ engine in. The mechanical parts are easy, it's the wiring that's the challenge, so the overall effort is the same. My best recommendation short of an EJ swap would be to change your driving style. EA82's are pretty indestructible if you keep fresh timing belts on them. Revving the piss out of them before shifting up makes them move much better. Don't be afraid to regularly take it to redline. There's also no rev limiter, but the valves float at about 81-8200 rpm depending on the motor and the power tapers off above redline so there's no reason to wind them that high.

My 68 vw had a light on the dash that was wired to the brake balance valve, and in the owners manual it said to push on the face of the light to momentarily turn it on and test the bulb. Your switch may be for the same reason? If it provides an independent ground to the bulb, all it's there for is to test the function of the bulb, not reset anything.

Use dielectric silicone grease to coat the inside of the spark plug boots before you put them on the plug. It's the only way of stopping them from heat-welding to the plugs. Don't grip too hard on the EJ25 spark plug boots, the plastic tube inside will break. Sometimes that's the only way though, and you just have to keep breaking it up until you can get a socket in over the plug.

It's not actually in the column, it's a pair of u-joints in a separate piece called the steering coupler. You can see the two joints if you look down on the drivers side of the engine bay below the brake master cylinder, and spray them with penetrating oil (not WD-40). If the steering loosens up for a bit, that's your problem. Easy enough to replace, and about $75 for the part from the dealer.

That's a phase 2 because it has the wide case flange where the two halfs are bolted together. Does it have the hi-lo range shift?

It's a low volume custom machined sleeve with a step and pair of set screws in it, so that drives up the cost. Then the throwout bearing and clip is probably another $40 or so of the cost. It's fair for what it is, and it works great. Much better than putting up with the incessant rattle and random binding of a worn stock snout, or replacing the whole transmission case to set back the clock on the wear.

The bolts have shallow heads on them, so you need a good socket to get enough engagement with them to work well. I've never had a problem with an impact on them. They're quality bolts going into forged steel, so you can get pretty agressive on the torque without hurting them. Torquing them is recommended of course.

It's also a good time to re-seal the rear oil separator plate behind the flywheel and do a clutch while you have it apart. If the snout of the transmission is worn where the throwout bearing rides, then a TSK-1 kit like this one: http://www.subaruwrxparts.com/shop/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=1793&IDCategory=271 fixes that. The wear is usually caused by one of the clips that holds the throwout bearing to the release fork breaking and letting the throwout bearing rattle. Don't replace the rear main seal. They never leak until someone tries replacing them.

Jam a flathead screwdriver between the starter ring gear teeth and the bellhousing in one of the narrow spots. It will wedge and let you get the bolts loose or tight. Or just use an impact gun... and "torque it to spec" Make sure the pilot bearing is in far enough and in flat.

I could drag my spare one to the bathroom scale and see. It's a heavy bastard.

95 is best. Non interference, roller rockers with hydraulic lash adjusters, dual port exhaust, and OBDii. Later ones have single port exhaust and manual valve adjustments and are interference, for a tiny gain in power. Earlier ones have sliding cam followers instead of rollers.

The pivot ball is inside the bellhousing and the clutch fork pushes against it when the cable pulls on the end of it. They wear into the clutch fork until it's too weak and it splits, letting the pivot push through the middle of the fork. If you pull the rubber boot off of the clutch fork where it goes into the bellhousing, you should be able to look down in there and see a formed bump in the middle of the release fork. If there's a crack running through the middle of it, that's your problem. Unfortunately you have to pull the engine or the transmission to replace it. Have an assistant step on the clutch while you look down in there. The crack may only open up when there's pressure on it.

95 legacy should be a cable clutch. The looser the cable is, the further the pedal goes to the floor. Take a look at the adjustment on the cable at the release fork sticking out of the bellhousing. There's 2 nuts on the cable that you jam against each other once you're done adjusting. Second option, and most likely: The clutch release fork has worn through and the pivot ball has punched through it.

If it's leaking that fast, it should be easy to track down where it's coming from because there will be an oil washed area leading from it. Valve cover gaskets, rear cam cover plate 0 ring, rear oil seperator plate, and the cam and crank seals are the main culprits, in that order. Sometimes the oil pan rusts through too. Grab a light and follow the drips, don't vidieo tape them. And your driveshaft is more serious than an oil leak. When that wipes the rear of the transmission and the shifter out, you won't be going anywhere. You can keep pouring oil in and it'll keep going. Priorities mate!

It's getting hung up on the pilot bearing because the clutch disk isn't alligned to it, but is clamped in place by the pressure plate. Loosen all the pressure plate bolts so it's just barely gripping the disk, install the engine, and tighten the bolts through the starter motor hole in the bellhousing.

I've driven like that. Safe? No... but it worked. You'll be fine towing it for 7 miles. If a wheel falls off, just give the tow rig more throttle, it'll get there.

Keep the car full of coolant and keep driving it. If it starts overheating, then you need to do headgaskets. But don't assume tiny bubbles in the radiator means you have to do headgaskets. You can also use a combustion gas leak detector (blue fluid in a percolator that you bubble the radiator gasses through and it turns green if HC's are present) to check if the gaskets are leaking into the coolant. If you just jump on an idea an start tearing ************ apart, you'll waste a lot of money and time for no gain. Diagnose then repair. Not chuck work and parts at it until something sticks.

If it's not leaking coolant on the carpet and steaming up the interior with a sickly sweet smell, the heater core is most likely fine. Other than the swishing noise of air bubbles in the coolant going through the heater core (which is a symptom of low coolant in the system, not a bad heater core), is it overheating? It often takes refilling the radiator a couple times to get all the air out of the system. Poke a hole in the duct tape on the resevoir so it can vent and also relieve the suction when it tries to drain back into the radiator. If it's overheating, pushing coolant into the resevior, and you can hear air bubbles going through the heater core, I'd suspect a headgasket. But if it's not overheating, I'd wait and see and keep it full of coolant.

No, ECM works fine with either motor. Go to a parts store like Autozone or Advanced and they'll read the codes for free. Then come back with the code number and we can give some advise. I'd be leaning toward a bad knock sensor, because that can cause serious driveability issues, but we don't know until you get the code pulled.

Any legacy or WRX clutch disk will fit too, so you could buy a fancy clutch disk to go with the XT6 pressure plate.

Yeah, that needs to be fixed NOW. One good pothole could give enough force to fold that, and you will need a lot of new parts if that happens, if you don't swerve into oncoming traffic as well. Control arms are easy to replace.

Failing anti-drainback valve in the oil filter. It's not keeping oil up in the galleries of the block, so the bearings are running dry until the pump can fill it all back up. Put on a better quality oil filter and that will go away. Probably has a FRAM on it now, right?