WoodsWagon

You may laugh, but scraping noises on turns is a common problem. A bent backing plate that almost touches the rotor will touch during cornering because the bearings are loaded differently and will deflect. So you get a squeek, chirp, or scrape noise that goes in time with the wheel speed, but only on turns. Trust me, a lot of customers drive way worse than I do. Sometimes I really have to beat the hell out of a car (by my standards) to reproduce a noise/problem that the customer claims is happening all the time.

You checked the U-joint at the end of the driveshaft by the diff, the u-joint that's going is the one at the opposite end of the driveshaft up at the transmission. That's why you hear noise under the shifter, because that's where the u-joint at the front of the driveshaft is. Put both ramps on the same side of the car, so you can slide under from the drivers side and get the heat shield off and check the u-joints. The slop in the rear axles is normal. The knobs you were seeing are rubber covers for the rear camber and toe alignment bolts.

Here's one on the EJ22 from a VW website: http://www.weidefamily.net/vanagon/Files/Subaru_EJ22.pdf

Does the brat have a power steering rack to start with? If it doesn't, and you'd just be looping the output of the pump back to the resevoir, then yes, it makes much more sense to pull the pump and run a smaller belt for the alternator. That's really common on VW swaps. If it has a power steering rack, then you should keep it. They drive nice with powersteering, and it's easy to hook up. The pump doesn't take up any space the alternator and crank pulley aren't already intruding into.

Highly unlikely it's the tires chirping at speed. The rotors rubbing a bent or rusty brake backing plate or a wear indicator on a brake pad is much more likely. The rotors do move when cornering due to a bit of flex in the wheel bearings, and that can lead to intermittent contact with another part only during cornering.

I've smoked a few R160's, but it was always parts breaking that took it out. I had one that the spider gears shredded, the cross pin sheared, and it split the carrier where the cross pin goes through. I had a couple I just shredded the spider gears on. I also lost 3 sets of rear transfer gears in the transmissions, and one front diff. I never took that one apart to see what let go, but parts got caught in the ring gear and blew out the bottom of the case. It left a trail of shame (gear oil). That one you linked to looks like either the oil was contaminated with water or sand or something, or it wasn't hypoid gear oil. He mentioned his mechanic had changed all the fluids recently, so possibly he put in manual transmission fluid on accident instead of hypoid gear oil. I have never seen a ring and pinion worn down like that without it being run out of oil. Abuse leads to chipped or missing teeth, not even wear down to nothing.

This is why the check engine light is flashing at you. You need to unplug those green and the white connectors. Not only will it cause the light to flash, when the engine is stopped it cycles the fuel pump and all the solenoids under the hood. It also locks the ignition timing advance so you can set the base timing, which driving it around like that it will loose a fair bit of power.

It's the long extension cord that's the problem... That's why you need the gas powered one, more portable. A leaf blower is a substantially larger fan then the bilge ventilators being sold as "electric superchargers".

I always let it suck the seafoam in while it's running. You keep the idle up and let it suck it in as fast as it can without bogging, then let the throttle go while it's still sucking it in and it stalls. Let it sit for 15 mins, and fire it back up. Either use the PCV hose coming right off the valve or one of the ported vacuum hoses on the throttle body. There's not much airflow when it's cranking over with just the starter. I'd be concerned about the seafoam puddling in the intake manifold rather than getting onto the valves and cylinders like it should.

Did you use the other rods too? Or did you put new bearings in the #4 rod? Usually a pounding bearing like that will oval out the rod cap too.

You need to be looking at the linkage between the shift lever in the center console and the back of the transmission, not the one that goes down the side of the transmission. That one is working just like it should, so you can hook it back up and leave it alone. Hopefully you didn't change the length of it when you were taking it apart. That shift rod should have been left alone, as it controls hi-lo, not 4wd 2wd. Ask questions first, take parts off later. Jack one of the rear wheels off the ground with the parking brake on and try spinning it by hand. Then get in the car, and push the 4wd lever all the way down to the 2wd position. Then try spinning the wheel again. Tell us what happens.

Smog pumps work for supercharging briggs and strattons, you'd need a whole bunch of them to do anthing on an EA81, and the belts would get complicated.

The idle air control motor can get gummed up and stick, causing a high idle. It's a 1" black rubber hose connecting to the IAC on the side of intake just below the throttle body on the passenger side. You can pull the hose off and spray some carb cleaner in there and possibly gently poke it with a screwdriver to get it worked loose again. One other possibility is the cruise control actuator. The cable can pop loose from the front of the actuator can if you accidentally lean on it, and that will hold the throttle partway open. It just clips back into place if you knocked it loose.

Electric superchargers (real ones) are expensive and require serious amperage to run. They do work for short bursts of acceleration though. If you put a CAI on your car, you're most likely looking at a boat bilge ventilator fan, repackaged as an "electric s/c" to sell to ricers too dumb to know better. They can't move enough air at any pressure to supercharge an engine. It's a hoax, and you might as well put magnets on your fuel line for an equal performance increase. You can see real performance gains from a gas powered leaf blower however, and it might fit where the spare tire goes. Kind of a pain to get out and pull start your supercharger every time you need to go fast though.

The linkage running up the side of the transmission is only the hi-low shifter. Right at the tail of the transmission is where the the 4wd-fwd shift happens, and it is run by the shaft sticking out of the back of the transfer housing. You need to be pulling on that shaft to get it to go into 2wd. If you got agressive with the shifter trying to get it into 2wd while it was bound up, you could have bent the shifter or the shift fork in the transfer housing. Put the parking brake on, and jack up one of the rear wheels so it's off the ground and can spin freely. Then try shifting it into 2wd. If the shifter is down in the fwd position, but the wheel is still engaged and the 4wd light is on, then you need to look at the shift rail sticking out of the back of the trans and make sure it's getting moved all the way.

I have also had this happen when I forgot to hook the 1" rubber hose onto the Idle Air Control (IAC) so it was pulling unmetered air in. So check you have no leaks between the MAF and the throttle body and IAC. No unhooked PCV hoses, no untightened clamps, ect. It will start because of the cold start enrichment, but as soon as the ECU sees the rpms come up, it stops that, the MAF indicates no air getting sucked into the engine, so it puts no fuel in and the engine dies. A failed MAF can also cause this. Failing that, go after the fuel pump. Also make sure the hose leading from it to the tank isn't kinked. Don't spray ether into an engine, it's bad stuff and can easily lead to cracked pistons. It's for direct injection diesel engines only. With IDI diesel engines it can knock the prechambers out of the heads and destroy the engine. Gas engines aren't strong enough to take the detonation of ether at all. I trashed a nice old chrysler 6 using ether to get it rolling when I was younger and dumber.

Front struts only, the rear is a multilink system instead of the wrx's mcpherson. Struts are the same, the springs are shorter. So you can put the front springs on your struts and lower it an inch or so.

How about you check that driveshaft out before making any more videos? There's probably a heat shield between it and the exhaust, but you can rip that crap off if it hasn't fallen off already.

Make that a manual trans turbo axle, the auto trans turbos stayed 23 spline.

It's accelerating too quick to be missfiring, and the CEL is not flashing while he's accelarating, so I think the missfire diagnosis is a red herring. There is a fair bit of driveline vibration and a ringing/jingle noise from the shifter area when coasting. I would look at the rear driveshaft U-joints carefully, especially the one right at the back of the transmission. If that joint breaks (and I've seen it happen), then the driveshaft whips around and punches the shifter up out of the center console. That also forcibly shifts the transmission into park at speed, rips the rear O2 sensor wiring off, and batters the exhaust. It's ugly. Now, since it's an automatic you can run it without the rear driveshaft. If you find one of the u-joints or the carrier bearing is loose, pull the driveshaft out. It's 4 bolts where it attaches to the rear diff flange, and 2 bolts in the middle at the carrier bearing. A smooth cylindrical plastic cap from a spray paint can happens to fit well as a cap on the rear output of the transmission. Use a cap with no vent hole in it, put some RTV sealer around the outside of the cap, and gently tap it in. You don't want it bottomed out on the splined shaft sticking out of the transmission. I'm telling you this because it looks like the car is a beater, and it's unlikely you'd spend the money to replace the driveshaft. Having a FWD car is better than a car that self-destructs, so the paint cap plug is the lesser of two evils. Clear the codes and see what comes back. The O2 sensor, bank 1, sensor 2, is the sensor after the catalytic converters. It's function is to monitor the catalyst efficincy, and you can ignore it and it won't affect anthing else. The EGR code, if the system has been disabled or removed, won't affect how it runs much. So don't worry about that. The knock sensor code is a big issue. When it finds the knock sensor not working, it can pull timing and make it absolutely gutless. That one is worth fixing. The sensor is usually the culprit, and make sure the wire connection is pointing 45 degrees to the rear and middle of the engine, then tighten it. Don't crank on it, and make sure it's oriented the right way, and that should fix it. The plug for it is right under the throttle body. The trans code is an issue too. Your gas mileage will drop a fair bit if it can't lock up the torque converter. Fixing the broken wire, or dropping the pan and replacing the solenoid would be worth doing. But, if it's an around town beater, don't bother.

You can buy ea82 front wheel bearings with integral seals from bearing houses, so that would be a solution to not having an inner wheel bearing seal. I ran them on my lifted wagon, with the factory seals as well, but still managed to destroy them. I spent a lot of time in deep water, so anything short of a positive pressure hub was going to fail.

The VSS can't co-exist with a cable. It's either or. So you need to do a electronic speedo to convert to using a VSS. The electronic speedo is also needed to send the vss signal to the ECU. I didn't modify the harness at all on the legacy I converted. I did all the wiring using jumpers from power sources already on the back of the cluster. The most work was making the electronic speedo head physically fit in the cluster. Check wiring diagrams to see if the electronic speedo cluster is reverse compatable with the cable speedo cluster. You might be lucky.

You have to do all the same modding with wiring and drivetrain to put an EA82t in, but you get an unreliable, outdated, low powered engine instead. That's why it just doesn't make sense.

When it comes to fitting a decent turbo motor in a brat, the EJ22t is kind of it. The OP obviously has an interest in having a racer brat with a turbo, so that's the easiest route to it. The more offset you run on the wheels, the more it jerks the steering wheel around. Stock size wheels it's not a problem, but when you start getting big and wide, the steering feedback gets harsh. AWD helps mellow its harsh a lot by spreading the power to the back. It's fun to take a auto EJ25 legacy and put in the fwd fuse and take it for a drive. When you find how easy it is to squeal the tires, you realize how much the AWD is really doing, all the time.

See if it happens more with the lights on high beams, the rear defrost on, and the fan blowing at max. If it squeels more, you need a belt or it tightened.