WoodsWagon

Lines go through the grommet under the rear seat and down to a junction block, then from the junction block they run up over the gas tank and out to each wheel. To replace them properly you need to drop the tank, which if the brake lines rusted out means a hellfest of broken bolts, fuel lines, the pipes breaking off the senders, and the nuts on the tank being too rusty to be able to get the senders out of the tanks. Don't bother to open that can of tin worms. Bend up your own line, there's enough space to sneak it through between the tank and the body and over the crossmember, then round to the wheel. If you can't get the line apart at the junction block (it's mounting will bend while your strugling with it and crack the rusted line for the left rear too) then just put a flare union in under the back seat. The rear brake lines are a flaming pain in the rump roast to do, expect to spend all day bending, fitting, flaring, swearing, securing the lines so they don't vibrate and chafe, bleeding (if you can get the bleeders to break loose), and probably bleeding yourself because of all the sharp rusty edges under there.

Then you want to use struts from a 96-99 legacy outback wagon. Putting those in will gain you 2-3" of suspension lift and give you the clearance between the rear tire and spring seat to run bigger tires. Also swap in the body bracket for the rear trailing arms on both sides from an outback, they will help center the rear wheels in the wheel well with the lift because they're longer. One note on a first gen legacy is that the unthreaded portion of the outback struts is too long for the thickness of the rear strut caps. You need to grind down a washer or two to put in the strut cap before putting the nut on or it will be loose. If you use the complete assembled struts and springs and cap out of an outback you may need to drill 2 new holes each side for the strut cap to bolt through to the body. I know you do on impreza's, not sure on the 1st gen legacys. 205/75r15's fit fine with no rubbing at that point With the tires and the outback struts you're looking at more ground clearance than a stock outback, and plenty to do lots of light-moderate offroading. Put a skidplate on for the oil pan, it's easy to beat the crap out of the oil pan if you don't. There's captured nuts in the lower radiator support and the engine crossmember brace for this purpose.

Second reason I wouldn't put it in the return line: The transmission is meant to operate at a minimum temp, the sooner it gets there the better, many electronicly controlled transmission have different shift schedules for a cold tranny vs warm and no lockup while cold to try and heat the fluid up. When the car is first running, the engine gets hot first, and the tranny cooler helps transfer some of that heat to the ATF. If that's getting cooled back off by a tranny cooler, then it will take even longer for the tranny to get up to temp. Third reason: The radiator is already being worked hard dumping the heat of the engine towing the trailer, why have more hot fluid going into it when you could be dumping a lot of it out already with the auxillary cooler?

Replace all the pullys, the bearings do and will fail and then it's a crapshoot on if the timeing will skip and the valves will destroy themselves. I've seen a SOHC 2.5 with a failed cog tooth bearing that the timeing didn't skip at all even though it had been driven long enough to wear the pully hub flat on on side from the outer part spinning agains it without any ball bearings. Also a 2.2 turbo that ripped the bolt right out of the waterpump when the pully seized, needed a new water pump too at that point, the casting was destroyed. Replace them, it's retarded not to.

The engine and tranny should be fine for pulling as much as you want, but make sure the cooling system is in top shape, and 100% install an auxiliary tranny cooler, in good airflow, and between the tranny and the radiator cooler, not the return. The higher difference between the hot tranny fluid and the air will make the cooler more efficient than if you had it in the return of the already partially cooled fluid. Change the fluid while your at it, possibly a couple times before the trip. They give you a drain plug to make it easy as changing the engine oil. Remember there is 2 dipsticks for the tranny, one on the drivers side for ATF, with a red handle, and one on the passenger side for 90w gear oil, with a yellow handle for the front diff. You can update the front brakes to the dual piston calipers and larger rotors of the newer ones, the knuckles and hubs are the same and the bigger rotors and caliper brackets and calipers bolt right on. You will need to run 15" rims though. Trailer brakes are awesome. It's easy to wire in a controller, and they make towing so much easier. And in that one situation where it's all going wrong and the trailer is trying to pass you and the car is sideways, reaching down and manually applying the trailer brakes can pull everything back into line. I've had a dodge cummins 4x4 counter-steered at full lock both to the left and the right using 3 lanes of highway going downhill at 55mph with a 1 ton 56 GMC truck on a trailer behind me pitching like a skiff on the high seas. No trailer brakes meant luck and perfect skid control was all I had until the next uphill. Took all the throttle feathering countersteering skill I had to keep that mess from scattering it's self and me across the highway. With trailer brakes it could have been simply resolved with a push of finger.

I've melted the t-belt covers on an EJ22 snow wheeling. I had the EA82 dash gauge pegged with the EJ22 sender, which nomally ran at 1/4 at normal temp. It was hot enough to be down on power, so I packed snow in around the block to try and help cool it down. Left the t-belt cover loose from all the bolts, the bolts and metal sleeves had gotten hotter than the plastic could stand. After it all cooled down, it was back to running fine.

Heck, mine went swimming lots of times and it never hurt it. Except for the time I hydrolocked it and bent the rods, that hurt it, but the water in the interior did nothing. I ran it without carpets, and left the factory drain holes open so the water would come up to sink it and get traction, and drain back out on the other side. The strangler seatbelts didn't like the water, but once they dried out they were always fine again.

A legacy with outback struts will have more ground clearance than an equal year outback. This is because of the subframe drop blocks that were put in at the factory to keep the axle angles the same in the outbacks. What this means is that it's acceptable in a factory outback to put in as much lift at each of the struts as the thickness of the subframe drop blocks. Or, you could go 1/2" more and still be ok, but the lower ball joint and outer CV joint angles are getting pretty steep at full droop then. Now, a lift is pointless if you don't run big tires. The limiting points are usually the rear spring seat, and the leading edge of the rear wheel well, but a sledgehammer takes care of that, and a sawzall is good for trimming the bumpers. A skidplate to protect the oil pan is a must, it hangs right out there and takes a beating if you don't have one. If you get one with blown headgaskets, check to see how it runs. If it runs pretty good and quiet except for overheating, do the headgaskets and put the 2.5 back in, they are good motors other than the headgasket problem. Or, put a 95 automatic tranny 2.2 in or a 96 auto tranny 2.2 with the exhaust header pipe too. Both will bolt up and plug in to any 96-99 outback. There is a noticable power penalty though.

First off, pull the torque converter out of there and get it up on a bench. Getting the TC re-seated into the tranny is not rocket science, you just spin and gently push and feel it index into the next spline, then spin and gently push and feel it click in again, and the next thing you know the T/C is sitting at the right depth in the tranny and it won't go any further in no matter how much you spin and push. You need the flexplate to match the torque converter. 2.5l TC's are bigger than 2.2l TC's, so the 2.5l flexplate has a shallower dish to it than the 2.2l flexplate. You can run either a 2.2l or a 2.5l torque converter, I don't belive the transmission interface is any different. Just use the right flexplate with the right converter. Flexplates crack around the center where they bolt to the crank, this will give a whack whack noise just like bad bearings. So will a loose crank pully beating itself to death on the crank key, and that crank bolt needs to be tight. Put a 1/2" craftsman ratchet on it and beat the ratchet with a 5lb slegehammer against the compression of the motor for a while, that should tighten it enough. If you have the motor out, use an impact gun to tighten it. With the gouges in the back of the motor, either your flexplate bolts weren't tightened by whoever put them in last, and they backed out until they started hitting and then sheared off, or they were the wrong bolts will too tall of a head. Which then started hitting and sheared off.

Your post belongs in "new generation" because it's a legacy, but that aside: Anything that fits a 2002 wrx can be made to fit your wagon. Do you want to go lower? Higher? Big rims rubber band tires? Small rims huge tires? Big brakes? Bigger engine?

That should be making more than 220hp, especially on a 2wd dyno. That's mildly tuned 2.0l power levels. The 2.5 should be putting out 280 or so.

If you're going to the trouble of swapping in a MPFI EA82, you might as well buy an adapter plate and flywheel and swap in a MPFI EJ22. The wiring work would be about the same. Easy swap would be either a carbed or SPFI EA82, or an EA81 with the distributor gear swapped with the EA82 SPFI distributor and the SPFI manifold put on.

That screams fans to me. When you're moving, you get airflow through the radiator, but when you're stopped it depends on the fans working to move air through the radiator. If the fans aren't working, it will overheat while stopped and be fine while moving. Turn the A/C to max cold with it running, and take a look at the fans. Both should be running full speed. The coolant out the overflow is normal if the engine is overheating.

Yeah, it will be really underpowered. The 1.8 was mediocre in the impreza's, and in the heavier body of a legacy, especially one that has most of the options like a 2.5l one does, is going to be really pokey. The 2.2l is a good compromise. You can put an EJ18 in. It needs to have the EGR system and you may have to swap the knock sensor and its wiring from the 2.5 to the 1.8. Use the 2.5l flexplate if automatic tranny or the flywheel if it's manual. The 2.5l flywheel is a lot heavier so it will help with the lack of low end torque in the 1.8 with it being installed in a heavy car. The 2.5l ECU may not be happy running a 1.8, that's a large displacement change, but it will run.

No, subaru M/T's are not bias towards the front. The rear wheels are not tagging along for the ride. They are not limited to 50% of the power. All common misconsceptions. The transmission output goes into the center differential, which is a differential with spider gears and a carrier housing just like the front and rear differential. So, just like any other differential, 100% of the power will go to the wheel with the least resistance when a tire is slipping. The viscous coupler acts as a limited slip device where it tries to redirect a portion of the power to the the non slipping axle, exacly the same a limited slip rear differential would. It's a posi-traction unit between the front and back axles, just like how a rear posi-traction would work between the two back wheels of a RWD car. Now, the torque is evenly distributed to all 4 wheels under normal operating conditions. However when you launch the car weight transfer takes away from the grip provided by the front wheels, so they are more likely to spin first. Do a launch in reverse, and the back wheels are more likely to spin first. It's a center differential with limited slip provided by a viscous coupler. Many supplemental AWD systems used viscous couplers exclusively to provide power to the rear wheels, no gears, just the friction generated in the VC assembly. So they are normally FWD with supplemental RWD that is limited by the lockup capabliities of the viscous coupler. Think honda RT4wd or the AWD chrysler minivans. When stuck, these vehicles will always spin 1 front wheel and potentially one rear if the ground is slick enough. You can get a MT subaru stuck with one rear wheel spinning if the traction of the other 3 vs the force needed to move the car is greater than the limited slip ability of the viscous coupler. The difference between a true AWD like the subaru M/T and supplemental AWD is if you can remove the rear driveshaft and still operate the vehicle normally. On a car with a center differential, the disconnected driveshaft will spin and the car won't move. On a supplemental, the car will operate normally in FWD. Automatic transmission subarus are supplemental AWD, it's a FWD transmission with a rear drive transfer clutch.

Yup, used to carry a can of MAF sensor cleaner in my truck because of this. It would throw a MAF code once a month. Previous owner had put a K&N cone on it and chucked the stock airbox. I was not pleased. I finally found a paper filter that I could clamp onto the "Cold air intake" tube and voila! the MAF codes and repeated cleanings went away.

There's flat resistors soldered to the board in the clock that the solder cracks on. Pop the clock out of the console, take it out of it's housing (don't loose the buttons, they are loose in there, 3 buttons, 3 rubbers), and resolder the resistors. The most likely culprit is the "510" resistor by the upper corner of the display, but resolder all of the big flat resistors while you're there, because I've had others crack too.

Constanly powering the C solenoid would fully unlock the transfer clutch pack, making it Front wheel drive. Cutting the power to the C lets the spool valve move over and apply full hydraulic pressure to the transfer clutch pack, making it locked into 4wd. You need to put in a resistor pack to shunt the driver signal from the TCU to when you disconnect the solenoid or the TCU will throw a code for a failed solenoid. There's 0 electrical risk if you do it right, even if you leave it in 4wd all the time. It's leaving it in Front wd all the time that burns up the solenoid.

It was built 6/89 or later, so it was a 90 model year, but an 89 build date on the door post. Take a look at the emmissions sticker on the hood, It will say "this vehcile complies with 1990 model year emmisions specificaitons" or something like that. That's the model year.

NO, read the thread, especially if you're going to revive it from 5 years ago. YOU DON'T NEED CRANK OR ENGINE REPLACED!!!!! Replace the crank pully, bolt, sprocket, and key, clean off the cam and crank sensors that are covered in metal shavings, weld or JB weld the key in the right spot on the crank, and tighten it all down. The key, as Nipper said in the this thread, and I have pointed out many times, does not carry the load. It is merely an allignment device. The flat faces of the crank shoulder (where it steps out right at the oil pump) the crank sprocket, pully and bolt head are what transmit the force. Thats why it's crucial that the bolt keep them clamped together. The snout of the crank only centers the pullys and gives a spot for the key to allign them to TDC. It doesn't need to be structural, just keep everything lined up until the bolt is tightened. Seems like I've been over this way too many times in the past 6 months, If people could read, or seach (which you obviously did to drag up a 5 year old thread), then I wouldn't have to go over this again and again and again. I'm not usually a wongleflute and I'm pretty forgiving but for christs sake READ and absorb what's said before giving advise.

How were they cleaned? If they soda-blasted them, that can pit the bearing surfaces in the head. When the bearing gets pitted, it creates raised spots where the displaced surface metal bumped up. That will reduce bearing clearance and cause it to bind. It's the same theory as nurling valve guides, you're displacing metal to reduce clearance. Check to make sure nothing got bent or dinged. Parts can and do get dropped, and often it's easy to dust them off and say "that didn't happen" than to check and replace what got damaged. Also check the cam with the buckets removed off of all the valves, so there's no spring preload on the cam. That will let you adress just the bearing issue. Make sure to check valve clearance after you're done, I've had the shims get mixed up and had to chart out clearances and figure out where each shim should go.

Use whatever flex plate came with the transmission and the bolts that held it to the engine, they're shorter than the manual flywheel ones. 2.5l torque converters are bigger than 2.2 ones, so you have to use the flexplate that matched the tranny and whatever engine was bolted to it before. Seeing as the wiring connections are back by the bellhousing, you're putting in an OBDII engine. I can't tell by the pic what car you're putting it into, but if it's an 95 or newer you will always have the check engine light on due to the lack of an EGR system on that engine. Just so you're aware. Other than that, you may have to do some hose re-routing if the charcoal EVAP canister is under the quarter panel in the back vs behind the RF headlight in the front. Should be plug and play.

If you don't have a dual range 4x4, that's your first problem. Swap the tranny out for a dual range 5spd if you can. Weber, or better SPFI swap on the EA81 will help a lot. That's a good stage to be at for a while until you can afford a EJ swap. My loyale would bog out on steep slopes in the woods sometimes with the D/R tranny in low but with 235/75r15 a/t's on. Ditching the EA82 for an EJ22 fixed that, but then I was replacing axles, clutches and trannys all the time.

Get a set of 99 legacy outback struts and put them in, will be a direct bolt in. You do not need the springs, just the struts. Reuse your springs. 99 outback struts have the ABS wire bracket welded to the struts, 96-98 have a separate bracket that is held on by the camber bolt, you can use these brackets in your 99 if you only find older struts. Get an allignment afterward.

L-body he's refering to loyale/DL/GL/GL-10, All of which have "L" in the name and are the same body. He's offering you the right glass for the car. There's two styles of rear 1/4 glass, molded rubber retained and urethane adhesive retained. Which style do you have?