WoodsWagon

What year L do you have? There's some differences between the years that cause minor issues that are easy to adress when swapping ouback struts in.

The cogged idler is under the most stress, so it fails first usually. I've had them come in with a flat worn on one side of the pully hub from how long it was spinning on it without the bearings. The teeth of the pully tend to grind into the head of the oil pump bypass spring cap thingy, so check that too. I also had one that the pully seized, ripped the bolt halfway out of the waterpump, and sheared it off. Car was driven home 30 miles or more, and the timing had only jumped 1 tooth. That was a mess with the pully ping-ponging around inside the belt covers.

If you do it in the car, pull the radiator out, or at least the fans. You need a new key, crank sprocket, pully, and bolt. Don't reuse any of them, as their surfaces aren't parallel and smooth anymore so they will never hold the torque again. You may be able to retighten the bolt, but it will work back loose. File the snout of the crank smooth and work on getting the crank sprocket off. Prying gently off the oil pump can help, and since you're replacing the sprocket anyway it doesn't matter if you snap the reluctor teeth off in the process. Once the sprocket is off, pry/hammer/wrench the remains of the key out of the crank. Do some filing, grinding and sanding and get the new key to go back into what remains of the keyway. If it holds in pretty good, your good to go reassembling everything else. If the keyway is too hogged out to keep the key centered, you can either weld or JB weld the key into the right spot, and file down the weld untill the crank sprocket fits over it. Remember, the key carries no load under normal operation, it just keeps the pullys lined up while the bolt is tightened. Once the bolt is tight, the friction between the cheek of the crank, both sides of the crank sprocket and pully, and the head of the bolt, are what transmits the power. The key is just an allignment tool, so it's not crucial it be in perfect shape. Clean all the metal shavings off of the crank and cam sensors, they are magnetic, and the shavings will be attracted to them. Have enough pile up on the end of the sensor, and it will screw up the signal generated by the sensor.

I've had to overlay them with JB weld because they rusted through on my mom's 98 outback. Still leaks a bit, but there's no way I can replace them without snapping all the studs off. I'm not sure I really want to be drilling new holes into the tank either.

Easy outs work great, IF you heat the crap out of the bolt you're pulling. You have to be way gentle with the EZ out. I've pulled loads of sheared off rusted in bolts out with EZ outs, and never snapped one. I'd try welding a nut to the top of the ez out. Point the heat of the arc right down into the ez out, then pull upwards to melt it into the inside of the nut. Let it cool a bit (like 30 seconds) and try to back it out. This is also a really good way to get sheared of bolts out rather than using an EZ out, but it requires that you have a welder.

Yeah, I drove mine for months like that on 3 cylinders. I just unplugged the injector for the dead cylinder and kept rolling.

Yup, I ran mine down to less than a quart of oil on a crosscountry trip once, and it did a number on the rings. As it got worse and worse over the year, it burned more and more oil to the point I was putting in 2 20oz bottles of oil a week. We had oil on tap at work, so I'd save the soda bottles from my lunches and fill them up, it would keep it going for the week. Probably about 300mi of driving a week. It will burn out the exhaust valves, I did in 2 on mine. I just slapped a spare head on and kept going, that lasted a few months before it burned too. Then I came across a free 2.2 out of a postal legacy, that other than having a billion stop and go miles was in OK shape.

How close to fitting are they? Are you expecting the axle to just slide through the bearings? I've had to use the axle nut and spacers to pull the axle through the bearings. It's a press fit putting the axle in and pushing it back out. I like the newer stuff a lot better where the axle pops right out after you pull the nut off.

The bearings not bad if you can get the lateral link bolt out. That's the 8" long bolt that goes through the lateral links and the knuckle and is exposed in the middle. It rusts to the sleeves inside the bushings, the knuckle, and rust expands it in the middle so even if you get it turning it won't pull through. Can be a huge PITA. You have to get it out to get the axle out though, and you can't press the bearings without pulling the axle. You can try getting the 2 bolts that hold the lateral links to the crossmember, but they're usually in worse shape than the lateral link bolt and they're right next to the gas tank so I'd be scared to use the torch on them. Have had some real fun times with those damn lateral link bolts.

You sure it's not something simple like a broken shift linkage? Start with the simple stuff like checking fluid level, there's 2 dipsticks, one for the gear oil in the front differential, and one for the ATF in the transmission. Does the ATF fluid look burnt or foamy? No reverse is surprising. Not shifting out of first could easily be the governor gear apple-cored and not spinning the governor. No governor pressure, no upshift. That happens fairly often in the 3at's If it will shift up at redline, but won't shift up until the engine has been wound way up, you could have had the vacuum hose crack or come off of the vacuum modulator on the transmission. When you shift it to park, does it stop the vehicle from rolling? Since first still works, can you shift between first and neutral and have the transmission go into neutral? What happens in reverse? Does it work but slip, or make grinding noises, or is it just not there? I understand you need the car back on the road, but I'd rather not ship a tranny down if the one in the car could be fixed.

No, the 305 was actually reliable, just not a 350. The EA82t is more like the aluminum vega motor. Garbage they kept trying to breathe life into when they should have walked.

That's your answer. Weld that ************ up, which is just the same as letting the cluchpack lock normally, and it will probably shear the output splined shaft off of the hub you weld to the clutch basket. So go ahead and weld the ************er, the clutchpack isn't the weak point. You could cut 1 wire and get the exact same result as taking the transfer housing off, dissasembling and cleaning the parts, welding the hub to the basket, cleaning again, and putting back together. Weld what you want, it still doesn't make sense. I've seen a legacy turbo light 'em up sideways down the road with a busted front axle and a locked clutch pack. RWD output through the clutchpack worked fine. But go ahead and make extra work for yourself, mabe welding it up will give you warm fuzzy feelings about it. Showing how little you know about the workings of the tranny by calling it a viscous coupler is kinda stupid. It aint a center diff either. Repeat after me: TRANSFER CLUTCH PACK. A diff would have gears, this has frictions and steels, and hydraulic pressure clamping them together. Just like the other clutches controlling the planeteries in the rest of the tranny. You can weld up the center diff, which has a viscous coupler, on a manual EJ transmission. None of those parts exist to weld on an automatic.

The 86 would have a 3at, which was a sucky automatic to start with. Swapping it to a 5spd isn't that hard and makes a big improvement in the car, but you will have to swap the rear differential to match. I have a 4x4 3at that worked great (I've got video of me smoking the rf tire off and having it shift 2nd, then 3rd, then back to 2nd while burning the tire down.) Course I was pulled up against a tree and had the tire on a steel plate. But still, good working tranny. Free if you want to pick it up, more if you need it shipped somehow. Anyway, what symptoms of a bad tranny do you have? There's common, and sometimes easily fixed problems with them.

Plus it seems that most of the people that went to the trouble of t-case swapping a subaru ended up driving lifted toyota's before too long. Breaking CV axles gets old pretty quick, and a t-case just puts more torque into them.

Not a ranger usually, use a divorced t-case out of a suzuki samuri, or datsun 720 I think. You cut the rear driveshaft short and run it into the divorced t-case and then make custom driveshafts front and rear. You need at least 6" of lift, as you need to put an extra front crossmember stacked under the one you have. You need to build a subframe to support the t-case, custom shifters, and at the end of that you're putting all your power through the rear transfer gears in the transmission, which I've stripped the teeth off of a couple times running just RWD. All in all, it makes more sense to drop a subaru body on a pickup frame than go through the whole process of transfer case and diff installation. Accept the limitations of the subaru and wheel within them. If you need something more capable, get something with a frame and solid axles.

There's been some problems with the lip on the rear backing plate interfering with the groove on the rotor hat and making noises like that. You may have moved something enough when you were installing the diff to cause problems mabe?

If you pop the distributor cap off and wiggle the rotor around, the rotor should stay centered. You can twist it against the springs of the mechanical advance, but shouldn't be able to wiggle the whole shaft it sits on around. If the bushings are shot, the air gap between the toothed wheel and the pickup coil can get too large, leading to missfires. The pickup coil is moved when the vacuum advance shifts the plate it sits on.

Yup, the non-turbo XT's were usually MPFI. They had a nice spider intake manifold that people swap onto the turbo cars sometimes. Wasn't there an extra PCV port on the turbo block than the NA block? Why do you ask by the way? You can get more power, with greater reliability with an EJ swap than turboing or swapping in an EA82t. 112hp out of a turbo charged 1.8l is really pathetic, and if you turn up the boost, the engine blows.

I'm not sure how flexable the SPFI system is. The volumetric eficiency of the EJ is a lot higher, and the tables in the SPFI computer are pretty well set for the EA. The MAF sensor may compensate, but I found you could unhook pretty much all the sensors off of the SPFI and it would still run fine. If you can wire up a SPFI system, you can wire up the EJ MPFI system, and it's leaps and bounds better.

Drop the exhaust unhook 02 sensors first, pull the rear driveshaft and carrier bearing. Punch out the rollpins on the shifter, pull shifter off of tranny. Remove tranny crossmember and mounts. Undo the 6 or 8 12mm head bolts holding the transfer housing on to the tranny. Tap, pound, and pry to get the transfer housing off of the back of the tranny, do not drop the center diff there's nothing holding it in there. Remove the big snapring that holds the center diff together and thoroughly weld the rear output to the case. Preheating the diff with a torch for a while makes the weld stronger, but harder to move the hot diff around while working on it. Clean all the weld slag out. Reasembly reverse of removal. While you have the tranny crossmember out, pound out the rollpin and remove the right front inner CV, you can pry the tranny to the side and get the CV to pop off the splines. The tranny is held up by the motor mounts and the pitch stopper, so you just twist the whole package in the engine bay. Pull the boot off of the outer CV, wear eye protection, and take a cold chisel to the cage inside the CV. Once you smash the cage up, pull out the balls and the axle, clean all the grease out and let it be. Supposedly you can get the axle to pull out of the center of the CV, rotate the center and pop the balls out, but I've never had luck with getting the axle to pull out of the center, there's a pop ring that holds it. Try that first, you may get lucky. Otherwise resort to hammering. You only need to remove one front axle, it's an open diff in the front and no torque will be transmitted to the wheel that's still hooked up.

Seems like most of them were red. I've got the rear hatch to one if anyone needs it. I saved it after I tore apart my rustbucket touring wagon. Free to a good home.

Yeah, if you already removed the feedback carb and replaced it with a weber, then the computer is doing nothing anyway. I belive the fuel pump controller is a separate module from the ECU, it was on the non-feedback EA82's. Put an old sparkplug in the bung where the 02 sensor was.

It's a clutch type lsd, and most auto parts stores should carry gear oil with the LSD addtive already mixed in or bottles of additive. Doesn't really need a special dealer only mix.

Naval jelly is for rust removal, the converter paints convert the surface and encapsulate the rest. Converter paint works ok, lay it on in a few coats while it's still wet and follow the directions to the letter. I use it all the time. It doesn't stop the rust, but it slows it down for a while. And that's most of what you can ask for out of a car in the northeast.

He probably lined the timing belt pullys up using the big arrows cast into the cam pullys. You need to use the small tic marks right out by the edge of the pully, and the tic mark on the reluctor tooth of the crank pully. Line the cams up to the notches in the rear t-belt cover, and the crank up to the cast arrow in the crank sensor boss. Common mistake. Other option is if he swapped the drivers side head, and used a different cam pully. There's 2 different options for how the cam sensor reluctor teeth are on the back of the cam pully, and you need the right pully to go with the ECU.