WoodsWagon

You need to replace the pully, the timing belt sprocket, and the bolt. The pully rounds over the face of the t-belt sprocket and the bolt face when it wobbles around, so even if you get a new pully it's not clamping on to a flat surface on the sprocket. It just wasn't done right the first time round. If all the surfaces of the bolt, pully, sproket and crank shoulder (right at the front main seal) are flat and parallel, it doesn't matter how trashed the crank snout is. But they have to be flat and parallel to hold the forces transmitted through them. I've fixed a few of these now, and no matter how trashed the crank snout is, new (or good used in my case) pullys, sprockets, and bolts, are a permanent fix. I whale on a craftsman 1/2" ratchet with my 5lb hand sledge to tighten the bolt. Seems to work well enough on the automatics. Poor man's impact gun.

In my experience, the aiming bubble doesn't work worth a damn on the old housings. Mabe when they were new it worked well. I've had best luck adjusting them against a wall after dark. Unplugging one headlight, then driving it and seeing if it's reaching where you want it, then swapping sides works well too. There's 2 studs sticking out of the rear of the housing, sometimes they have plastic heads on them, so once those crumble off you use vice grips to turn the studs.

If you have the owners manual, it gives you good directions on where the allen key is stored, and where the access plug is to wind it back. It's the same allen key to wind back the automatic strangler seatbelts. You should not have had to remove the headliner to get to it, however now that you have it out you can look to see if the relay or the motor is causing your problems.

Yup, you can burn out the bushings, then cut the metal sleeves inside the bushings and the bolt. Those lateral link bolts suck when they rust in. You may have to use a cutting torch to burn out the remains of the bolt where it goes through the hub.

First off, why did the compressor need replacement? If you fragged the compresser and burnt it all to hell inside, then the condensor could need replacement too because of all the debris in the system. The reciever dryer tends to filter that, so the evaporator and expansion valve don't get clogged. drill and gently use an ez out on the bolt you snapped off, that connection will blow apart if you don't have a bolt in there. Or, replace the condensor too, as I think that's what that bolt threads into there right?

Pretty sure thats a 2wd one. The AWD's usually have stickers on the back that proclaim that. They could have been removed of course. The picture is too grainy to see if there's a dust cap or an axle nut on the rear wheel. I take it you already bought the car? Were you set on getting an AWD subaru? You can swap it over, but it's fairly involved. Different gas tank, transmission, drive shafts, rear knuckles, axles and differential, crossmembers, shifter ect.

Low temp t-stat isn't a good idea. If you have an inadequate radiator or water pump, a low temp t-stat won't fix the problem. What a low temp T-stat will do however is get you crappy mpg and shorter engine life. If the engine oil can't get hot enough to boil off all the moisture from condensation in it, it will form acids and slowly eat the bearings. Colder engine also means the parts aren't up to operating temp, and many parts in an engine are expand to fit, ie they don't fit right until they're hot. If the engine never gets up to temp, the computer won't go closed loop and adjust fuel based on the O2 sensor reading. So, you will be running on the default cold startup map all the time. Pretty much like leaving the choke partway on all the time. That will reduce MPG and increase cylinder wall wear and oil dilution. Put the right T-stat in, and put big enough fans on the radiator to circulate air through. My EJ22 on the stock single core EA82 radiator with one Saab 9000 pusher fan running backwards as a puller fan would never overheat under normal operation. I could get it cooking if I was doing hard extended deep snow plowing, like 1/2 hour or more of hard uphill with the engine under full load at 4-6k rpms. I had 1 undersized fan, running the oposite direction of what it's blades were designed for, on a 10+ year old single core radiator. It doesn't get much worse than that. Put a couple decent fans on and all will be well.

Well, I hydrolocked the EA82 in my wagon, so it kind of forced the issue. I had the engine swapped in in a weekend, but the wiring wasn't finished. I needed the car so I stuffed the partially stripped harness under the dash. With enough force and zipty's it fit. The bundle 'O harness caught fire 2 years later from being pinched by the gas pedal, I just pulled the torched wires apart and taped them. It's still working now, though I don't drive the car due to rust and it's on the chopping block for being stripped this month. So, I techinally never finished the EJ swap. I drove it for 4 years, took it to wyoming and back, (showed Russ the swap while I was out there) blew 3 transmissions, 4 rear diffs, piles of axles, and 1.5 EJ22's in that time, so it worked out pretty good.

To put it less negatively and more simply: DOHC heads don't fit between EA81 framerails. 6MT's don't fit in EA81 transmission tunnels R200 may fit in the rear with some work. You will have to remove and reweld a large portion of the firewall/floorpan and both front framerails, create a hodgepodge of a front suspension to use the EJ knuckles, axles, and brakes with the EA lower control arm. It would be easier to get a STI and chop the roof and the trunk off and turn it into a brat style body.

I'm having the same problem with a 98 forester. However, the gauge pegs as soon as you turn the key on and let it sit for a bit. With the engine running it comes up to temp and stays there, as evidenced by the OBDII scan tool data reading from the computers cts. The gauge just peggs out though. I swapped senders with a spare I had, and it still pegs so I've left it at that. Hard to sell the car, esp with the DOHC 2.5, which is known for headgaskets, with a pegged temp gauge.

135 vs 90. Makes a huge difference. When my EJ22 had a burnt valve and ran on 3 cyls, it had the same acceleration and top speed (just shy of 100mph) as my EA82.

With 14" rims and tires, I'd say it's a non-outback legacy or impreza. With your spacers stuffed in, the spring compressed until it was in coil bind and became a solid column. That then tried to crush the spring seat down off the strut. Now, the nice thing is that late 90's legacy outback struts will fit with minimal work, give you about 2.5" of lift, and give you all that lift between the spring seat and the knuckle, so you can fit bigger tires and not have them rub. If you order a set of struts (or grab them out of a junkyard) for a 98 legacy outback, the front ones will bolt in. The rear ones will either need the holes where they bolt to the body hogged out, or swap the strut cap from yours onto the outback strut. You may need to make an additional washer that fits down into the strut cap between it and the nut for the strut because they changed the length of the strut non-threaded portion and it won't tighten without it. It's the right way to lift the car, it doesn't alter the handling, and it gives you more space for bigger tires.

Yup, you moved the shift lever too far. The first move up shifts the rear drive in, then moving it further starts to move the low range shift collar in the front of the tranny. There's a neutral spot between the direct drive position of the shift collar and the lo-range reduction position. That's where you were when you could rev it but not move. The reason that it's bad to run the transmission in the neutral spot between 4hi and 4lo is that the gear reduction is on the input to the transmission. When it's in neutral, none of the gears are spinning but the input shaft is. The gear oil can't get to the bearings on the input shaft unless the gears are spinning and splashing the oil up there. When you have the main transmission in neutral, no gear set is locked to a shaft, but they are all spinning and pumping oil around, which is really important for the bearings.

Temp sensor is a good place to start, but it won't fix the missfire. I hate to say it, but cyl 3 seems the most susceptable to burnt valves. I would do a compression test to see what you have, and a leakdown test to see where it's going. The injector on 3 is the last in the line of the fuel rail, and it seems to get clogged most often. That makes the cylinder run lean and burn up exhaust valves.

As a side note, which now that you've got the sunroof pulled out it doesn't really matter anymore, but sunroof leaks are rarely the seals. You could technically run a sunroof with no seals, and in anything but a downpour the 4 drains should keep the water out of the interior. Once the drains plog, that when the water starts overflowing the sunroof tray and wetting down the interior. There's the common misconception that the seals around the glass are what keeps the water out. They try and redirect the water so it runs off the roof, but they are expected to leak, and the drains are designed to carry away that leakage. I've seen lots of cars with tape/sillicone goobered all over the sunroof, when the real problem is plogged drains. I've had good results with a piece of welding wire carefully used to break up the clogs and compressed air to clear them through.

Would you mind holding up an EJ22 intake manifold gasket lined up with the bolt holes on the manifold? It would be interesting to see the overlap on the gasket. I see what someone said about it potenially not sealing against a head with the injector bump in it. That looks like it could be pretty easily solved with a spacer plate, but then that brings in the problem of sealing the coolant crossover to the block. So mabe machine down the intake manifold mating surfaces the thickness of the block-off plate, and that way the plate is samwiched between the intake and the head, and the coolant crossover is properly clamped against the block.

Yes, cutting a coil or too will make it more stiff, but I think the problem with the spring seats getting blown down the shock was due to the springs compressed height being taller than the struts compressed height. Cutting the spring meant that at full compression of the strut, the spring still had a slight airgap between coils. While the spring is stiffer because there is less coils, it also has less preload on it, which may change the dynamics of ride height/ stiffness.

The other wheels should not have "normal" bearing play. The fixed cartrige bearings should not have any discernable play in them, unlike the adjustable tapered roller bearings of yesteryear. If you can clunk the wheel around at all in any direction, there is something worn, be it tie rod ends, the lower ball joint, or the bearing.

I cut off a few coils on my accord springs on the rear. I carried a lot of heavy junk all the time, and the stock springs didn't cut it, esp with the lift, you no longer have the bumpstops so all the impact is taken by the shocks. I had everything including a fully dressed small block chevy in the back of that wagon at one time or another. It was a lot better with the accord springs, but there was less flex when wheeling unloaded. Ford tempo v6 springs in the front are rumored to fit, I have a set somewhere but never put them on. I had a set of 86 adjustable struts, so I just cranked the front up all the way. Still sat low with the winch, bumper, and skidplate in the front.

Yeah, but our octane numbering system is an average of two numbers, the reseach octane number and somthing else. So it might be hard to compare. Plus it's all crapped up with ethanol, doesn't smell like real gas anymore and corrodes everything. You have any progress finding manifolds and distributors in the junkyard? Last time I pm'd you you were still busy with a move or somethng so I let it lie.

Nah, I was doing wheel bearings alternating front and rear every 8-10 months or so. New bearings, new seals each time, even used the bearings with integral seals in the front. Each set of bearings that I took out had rust in them. If you play a lot in mud and deep water, you pay in wheel bearings. But, when your commuter car is also your offroad toy, you have to expect these things. Under normal use 150k is normal I'd say.

The whole point of the EGR system is to introduce an inert gas into the intake to take up volume in the combustion chamber without adding to the chemical reaction of combustion. That lowers combustion temps, which reduces NOx. It doesn't change the fuel/air mixture to have exhaust gas getting pulled into the intake. Having a vacuum leak to outside air would, as the excess unmetered air would throw the mixture lean.

That's more of a $50 question. That would solve a lot of the issues with finding 2.2l to put in place of 2.5l potentially. If answered, then you could use any 2.2l from 90-98.

There is no non-egr automatic OBDII. Sorry, but whoever had swapped the non-egr engine into the 96 automatic lived with the egr code too. If the computer is put in an automatic car, it looks for EGR.

If the incident was on video, wouldn't you know exactly when it was stolen? Or are you just using that as a tactic to convince the thief they're busted and to return the car, because you don't have video footage? That sucks either way. Older subarus aren't usually stolen to be stripped for parts, it's more of a joyride thing usually. Unfortunately when they're recovered they're usually beat to ************ because of the joyriding. Sucks to hear. Was the car locked?