WoodsWagon

http://www.smarteck.ca/images/Uni-Split.jpg This is what you need, it's a split flange that bolts together and replicates everything that rusted off. No welding or cutting needed. You may need to grind down the rusted remains of the ears a bit, but leave the collar there.

I've seen the water pump bearing lock up on high milage subarus where it was never changed. It's on the backside of timing belt, so it just burns the belt and the engine overheats, it won't throw the timing off. The other idler bearing will fail and let the belt come off the pullys though, so replacing the idler pullys is good practice.

I run 2 of them, one on my 92 EJ22 swapped loyale and one on my 86 turbowagon. The pumps are a fair bit louder, but for $90-100 bucks it's not bad. My loyale had no carpets so it was louder anyway. You need to adapt from the 1/2" or so coming from the fuel tank to the 1/4 or 3/16 that feeds the pump. You will also need to splice spade connectors onto the pump wiring harness to fit the ford pump. I have had a small tree pull one of the wires off before but my pump is not well protected.

So it was the hidden dipstick? Nice when there's easy fixes like that.

If the transmission was working before you did the work on it, then it's still fine. Either the fluid level is too low (You are checking it with the engine running and transmission in park right?) or you broke a seal installing either the governor or the modulator. You are using the right dipstick- the one that goes to the transmission by the starter motor and heater hoses rather than the one that goes to the front differential over on the passenger side of the motor. The fluid on the dipstick was pink rather than amber colored? I've never done a modulator on a 3AT, but there is usualy 0 rings and a actuating rod in there, make sure it's in right. Check the drain pan for spare parts too.

You need to bring a 90 degree bent phillips screwdriver to get the two screws that go up vertically into the mouth of the pocket. Get the bracket that goes with the ashtray and unplug the wiring that goes to the light on top of the ashtray. Most likely there is a corresponding connector on your harness for it to plug into.

Undo the two studs that go into the differential cover, the 4 lower lateral link bolts (two are cam bolts) and the exhaust heat shield bolts. Take out the 4 bolts from the body, lower the diff and crossmember down, and rotate it off of the diff towards the rear. Instalation is the reverse of removal. An impact gun is really handy, you can back out a bolt 1/4" spray it with penetrating oil, and run it back in and repeat, slowly getting more and more range of motion out of the bolt. Be really patient getting the 4 body bolts out, if they break it sucks so bad.

I'd put in one of your carbed EJ22's with a EJ 5spd. Weld the center differential and use the rear output for the transfer case. The lack of low range in the tranny will be made up for by the transfer case and the extra power of the EJ will help.

I carry these fold out traction aids. It folds out into a kind of flexible ladder, has teeth on one side, and you put one end under the tire. I have 4 of them, and they work amazingly well. Snow, mud, you name it, the things can help the car walk out. Unfortantely, you can only buy them by the case from a company up in quebec. I think I used my winch on other peoples trucks more than I ever used it to pull the wagon out.

One huge reason for wanting them is the CLUTCH. With the adapter plate you have to use an EA flywheel and clutch setups, which, while you can use EJ disks and xt6 pressure plates is still fairly lacking when it comes to performance clutch options. The EJ behhousing has the relocated starter motor position, so you use an EJ flywheel and all the clutch options that come with it.

Doing the plugs in 10 minutes is an exaggeration. The WRX's are DOHC, so the plugs are buried down at a 90 degree angle in the heads. Rear drivers side is the biggest PITA, some undo the engine mounts and lift it up a bit to get a clear shot, or I just feed the socket in, then the extension, then the ratchet. They suck, there's no doubt about it, but 2.5 is a bit much. Nothing like a 5.4l F150.

You also need to swap gas tanks if you aren't putting in a lift at the same time. The 4wd tanks have a dent in them for the rear differential. No holes need be cut for the transfer case lever, it fits through the same hole the FWD shifter goes through. You can swap the interior center console onto the loyale too. Take the rear speakers and plug them into the loyale doors while you're transfering. You swap the rear struts, suspension and crossmember in as well as the mustache bar. Holes need to be drilled for the mustace bar and a center carrier bearing mount fabricated. Many people drill the holes from the bottom up for the mustace bar, then make an oversisedholes inside the body and drop the bolts in from inside, saves welding nuts into the body.

The 4wd system on the automatics is NOT VACUUM ACTUATED. The 5spds have a a pair of solenoids that feed vacuum diaphram that moves a cable that actuates a shift fork. The automatics have a clutch pack a the back that is either on or off. If the dash lights up, it should be easy enough to check for voltage at the solenoid on the transmission that lets hydraulic pressure back to the clutch pack. If the solenoid is smoked, the wiring is broken or disconnected, or a fuse is blown it may not allow hydraulic pressure back to the clutch pack. The only vaccum line to the tranny runs the vacuum modulator, which works with the mechanical governor in the tranny to determine shift points.

I used the pusher fan off of a saab 9000 turbo. I hooked the wires up backwards to make it a puller and put it on the drivers side of the radiator. I run it off of the ECU controlled fan relay. I don't hear it much in the summer but it runs full time when I'm doing heav snow wheeling. I have seen the temp gauge get to the hot mark once, that's with the ea82 gauge and the ej22 sender, so the motor was roasting. But, that was a long wet snow covered hill where I was making progress inch by inch at 3-4k rpms for a 1/4 mile or so.

Cut up the turbo manifold. The spider manifold is an upgrade from a turbo manifold and therefore more desireable in it's origional form.

You sure the flywheel bolts were tight?

Had a friend with a postal wagon that would do the same thing. He could drive all day with it but there was one hill he would make it up halfway and it would start misfiring. Stop, let it wait 5 mins, it would fire back up and make it the rest of the way up the hill. Fuel pressure was good, filter was clean, no codes, so we threw parts at it off my pile of spares. A different coilpack solved it. Apparently the coil was marginal and it would overheat and open under heavy load. They don't go bad very often, so grab a coil off a manual transmission car. Coil should say "diamond" on it, they're supposed to be better.

No, just the headgasket. The closed deck block has less area exposed for coolant to flow through, so some of the coolant passages on the 2.5l head won't line up to anything. Drilling a couple holes in the headgasket (with it clamped between boards usually) will allow enough coolant through in the right places. There's pictures of where it needs to be drilled on NASIOC.

Cool. Nice when it's a simple solution like that.

In 92 the only EA82 would have been SPFI unless it was in an XT? If it's SPFI the carb manifold and distributor will bolt right on. Small boost in power due to the compression ratio increase.

Yes, but you will only use 4 out of the 8 bellhousing bolts and will need to use the gt crank trigger sprocket. Some headgasket work will probably need to be done, usually drilling coolant holes through. Check "built motors" on NASIOC, they have a fair bit of info.

If you take the boot off the cv and pull the retaining ring out of the cv cup, you can drop the diff out with the cups on it. Then, clean the grease out of the cups, you will see a sheet metal plug in the bottom of the cv cup. Use a chisel to mutilate the crap out of the sheetmetal and punch a hole in the middle of it. This will give you acces to the torx bolt. I use a 6pt 1/4" drive deep metric socket, 9mm or somthing odd like that, pound it in through the jagged hole and it gets the bolt out every time. The bolts are tight, really tight. Using an impact gun with some reducing adapters down to the 1/4" socket size is advisable, but go easy on the gun. I've blown up a lot of diffs, and in NH the cups are always rusted to the shafts.

SOHC should be fairly easy to do. I put a shop vac on blow and duct taped the hose to the throttle body on the last one I did. Prop the throttle open and rotate the crank until it starts to blow out through the spark plug hole. Wear eye protection when your using the tap, the chips can come out fast. Greasing the tap is another good way to contain the chips. I put some JB weld on the inserts threads just as an extra precaution against it backing out.

I haven't seen this car on here before, anyone recognize it? Rear roof is removed and replaced with a cage, snorkel, brush gaurd and winch.

My garage has 2x3's as the bottom part of the prefab trusses. I toss a 4x4 that goes between 4 of the trusses, put a strap round the middle and use a comealong to lift the motor out. I've used it on EJ22s and DOHC EJ25's so I think you'd be fine if your rafters are 2x6's. Spread the load and make sure the motor doesn't get caught up on the way out, you don't want to be lifting the weight of the car.