WoodsWagon

Ahh, that's a pity. I was afraid of that because all the references were to 91turbos. My friends 94 turbo sedan didn't have one, and I guess it's not even worth checking under his 93 turbo wagon. Thanks.

did the rear vlsd come in only the 1991 legacy turbos, or could the 92-94 turbos have them too? I know 2000 and up legacy's had them as an option, as did the wrx's.

I think you all should talk to this guy for a bit: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/member.php?u=12611 He might help you figure out what is fact and what is make belive. Seriously, I dont give a flying ************ about the geopolitical/environmental aspects of electrolisys. Make your system, hook it up to your car, and drive in the same manner and record you gas millage in the same way and compare. Then tally up the cost of the system, the cost of replacement parts, and the cost of consumables, such as the distilled water. Give some real numbers to work with. No one should belive something just because they read that it worked, or that it worked in the little world inside their head. Do some experimentation, record some data, and present it. RESULTS PEOPLE! That's all I'm asking for. Oh, and the globe is warming. Whether it's due to us releasing carbon dioxide stored for millenia, or the natural phases of the earth, the decision has to be made whether to change our ways to try and slow the process or party on till the world burns. Of course it can't be the former because the world has only existed for 6 thousand years, and the apocolypse is coming soon, so lets party on and use all we can.

I often punch out the pins on the axles and slide the inner DOJ all the way out on the splines. That way you get a better angle on the two lower nuts usign 3/8 drive.

I had the rotor screw come out once too. Thought I ran out of gas, so I had a friend tow me to a gas station. When it was full, and it still wouldn't run, that's when we started diag. Found the rotor loose, and fished around for the screw in the disty.

Shipping to the US from the Europeon Domestic Market (EDM) Where I know they're common would be cheaper than shipping from Australia. But for NZ, Aus transmissions would be the cheapest.

Auto or manual? The gear ratios might be different. We run 89 in the car too, so the ECU may compensate and advance the timing a bit.

THe squeeling could be a loose or worn belt too. Turn the a/c on with the car parked, and spray some water on the belts, if the squeeling changes, replace the belt. The smoke coming out the vents is usually water vapor. If you switch the A/C controlls to Recirc, it should go away. Check that the drain hose out of the evaporator box is clear, it's a rubber hose that comes out of the bottom passenger side of the firewall, visible if you slide under the car It should have water dripping out of it with the a/c on.

If your torque bind went away when you put the FWD fuse in, then everything in the transmission is working properly. What it needs is a few fluid changes, which on the subaru automatic are no more complicated than an engine oil change. IE something you can do in your driveway cheap and easy. Having the FWD fuse in will not increase gas milage. All the same drag causing driveline parts are rotating whether they are being powered by the transmission or not. With our 98 outback, I'm not sure where the tipping point is on speed vs gas milage. What I mean by that is there is a speed at which the aerodynamic resistance, and the torque curve of the motor with the gearing have a point where gas milage will begin to decrease after a certain speed. We found that the car got it's best milage fully loaded with gear doing 85mph for hours on end. Like 29.5mpg. Same car, same load, but doing 60mph got 24mpg. We also found the old adage of running the a/c with the windows closed is better on the highway than A/C off with windows open. Testing across Nebraska, (what can I say it's pretty boring driving there) I could watch the injector duration lengthen with my scantool with windows up and AC, compared to windows down and A/C off. Lowest duration was with A/C off and windows up, but then we would have baked. If you have a roof rack and don't use it, remove the crossbars. That's extra air drag you don't need. Biggest effect is your right foot. Being smooth with acceleration rather than punching it and then letting off when you get to speed will net big gains.

Just as a side note, when I did my EJ swap I ended up doing the same thing. Worked good for more than a year before the SMJ worked it's way out of the rat's nest of wire I stuffed behind the steering column and into the path of the accelerator pedal. I kinda wondered what that burning smell was for a few days but figured it was left over from welding I had done. Turns out the harness had been on fire above my feet a few times. When I put the pedal to the floor, it was severing/crushing a bunch of the SMJ wire into each other. I noticed the car had lost power, and then a few days later it wouldn't start. Pulled the wires apart and taped up the charred remains and it still works, but I keep the extinguisher handy. Anyway, moral of the story is to make sure that any of the spliced harness is well secured out of harms way, not just stuffed under the dash.

Most EDM EJ-powered subarus came with dual range AWD too. Legacy's, Imps, and forrestors all had DR/AWD EJ-bellhousing boxes in them. So it's not just a latinamerica/australia deal. One other thing I would look into is whether the JDM market had them. There is a regular trade in JDM engines and transmissions for honda's, and it probably wouldn't be that hard to convince an importer to throw in a few subie trannies into a container.

And just because it's rare doesn't mean it's valuable. It's not like you're tearing apart some hand built antique. Modify the car to improve it's performance, but try to keep the apperance stock and you'll keep everyone happy.

Since you have pushbutton start, that kinda rules out the flaky ignition switch problem. The other thing I would check is the starter solenoid. If you run a jumper wire straight from the battery to the soleniod terminal, it shoud crank. I've had a bunch of starters acting up because of the soleniod getting stuck in the end cap and the contacts getting worn out. The starter I have now, some mornings I have to hold the key in the start position for 5 seconds before the soleniod plunger will break loose and then the starter will work.

Not true actually, that's what the voltage regulator controlls. The amount of current going throught the field windings in the rotor is varied to match the needed output of the alt. So most of the time the alt's turning resistance and horsepower use is much less than when it's put under full electrical load. So when you put a huge electrical load on the system, like a HHO generator, then the alt will run at 100% and take a lot more power from the engine. Most alt's are not rated for 100% duty either, so they will cook pretty quick.

The one in my loyale now came out of a 1992 postal legacy. The RHD's were sold pretty exclusively to the postal system, so it had been in continuous use doing stop and go rural delivery from then untill 2007. I don't know exacly how many miles were on it, but you can tell it's a bit down on low end torque. I'd say it was a bit worn, but it runs great and the price was right. So mine has 15 years of 6 day a week stop and go driving for mabe a 50 mile route, whatever that equates out to.

What does the underhood sticker say? Usually under the specs for idle speed and engine family they will say "this car complies with the emmisions standards for 1990 model year passenger vehiclces" That's assumeing that it has a the origional hood, and that the sticker is still on there.

Except for Honda automatic transmissions. They use a manual gearbox setup with clutch packs instead of shift collars and synchros. Damndest thing, not a single planetary set or clutch band in the whole auto transmission.

Before this winter, I would have recomended them. Now, not as much. They are a great all-around tire, which means they suck at everthing, but at least work doing everthing. My problem with them was their snow performance. I had a stock jeep commanche with cheap-arse snow tires plowing it's way through the snow, pushing a pretty good pile infront of it, and I couldn't go through snow that wasn't even touching the belly of my car. They did better than the BFG nearly used up mud terrains on my friends tacoma though.

I ran an EJ25 with a relocated knock sensor for a while. It would detonate on hard accel, and when we pulled a trailer with it it would detonate like no tomorrow. If you have a new sensor, put it in the right spot, use a 10mm with a long 1/4" drive extension, isn't that hard. The pigtail has to be at a 45 degree angle to the centerline of the block. Only knock sensors on the way out need relocation. It's a stop gap to get the code to go away and not spend money.

OH yess, it feels good alright. After suffering with the SPFI for as long as I did, the first rolling burnout I did with my EJ felt really good. Then came RWD, and LSD diff and multiple sets of tires gone up it felt awesome. The transmissions, diffs, axles, driveshafts and clutches didn't feel so good though, but it was a lot of fun. I have an EA82t. It's an 86 T-wagon, and I plan on having a lot of fun with it before it blows. But when it does, I have a EJ25, or an EZ30 and a variety of turbos, superchargers, and intercoolers in the shed to make it rip. Sure, there's pride in squeezing every last hampster out of an engine, but the pleasure of driving a car that truely ripps outweighs that.

Which is exacly what happened with my car. Linking the 3 blocks is the minumum, cutting and extending the bracket would be better. Putting a double bend in the radius rod would make it even more suseptible to bending when you hit a rock or stump.

You may want to replace the pistons while you have it apart. There's a molybdnym??? coating on the skirts that wears over time, and the EJ25's are really prone to piston slap. Replaceing the pistons at 180k can't hurt, and nothing sucks as bad as dropping 1500 in parts into an engine and having it have piston slap afterward.

It probably cracked because pieces of your gears got caught between the ring gear and the bottom of the case. I'd say you might as well replace the front diff and case now.

Putting any gear oil or "concoctions" in the tranny will not help a 5 speed manual trans, as the center diff is a Viscous Coupler and is a sealed unit. You can't circlulate fresh oil through it like you can with an automatic. You're center diff is starting to lock up, which is a sign of abuse in the past. That abuse being running with mismatched or underinflated tires, or being really stuck and spinning one wheel for a long time. There is no cure other than replacement of the VC. If you can, use the warantee, but they will squeel.

So I decided to stop by the J/Y on the way home from school. Life's been kinda sucking with my car, and I found a major score today. 2 awesome tires for my truck= $50, and an xt6. Now, the xt6 had already been crushed, but he used the loader to do it, so only the roof and doors caved. This leaves me with EVERYTHING for a 5 lug swap. WOOOT!!! He's going to pull the car back out of the pile that was getting shipped out tomorrow. It has no motor, and it was a bondo case, but the hubs and brakes are all there. Air suspension that I'm going to leave in there, and a 3.7 diff that I don't think is a LSD. It says Full Time 4wd on the doors. Don't know if it has the tranny in it. So the 5lug goodies go into my T-wag. Hellyeah. I'm happy even though finals are coming up and my car is dead in the water.