WoodsWagon

From someone who has a lot of experience with broken axles: Drop the diff, remove driveshalft ect. Cut clamps on both outer CV boots. Shove boots up axles toward diff. Put on safety glasses. Pick up large cold chisel, not some crappy wood chisel, a real steel busting chisel. Use dominant hand to pick up 3lb hand sledge, the short handle type. Place sharp end of chisel on the edge of the CV joint bearing cage, right above where one of the 6 balls is. Apply libral impact force. Move to the next thin spot above a ball, shatter that off. When you have enough of the race busted, you should be able to jerk the axle around and have the balls fall out. This will leave you with an empty CV cup, which is what you want, and no screwing around with the bearings. If you saw/torch the axle off, the stub will flop around and cause wierd vibrations.

There's the two weights that lock the belt when it's pulled out hard enough, but there is often anothe weight that swings based on the motion of the body to lock the seatbelts. This is the one that locks the belts when you're on an offcamber hill or stopping/accelerating hard. The flywheights, which lock when you jerk the seatbelt, may be gummed up. The inertia lock weight may still be fine. Only real way to test is go out and hammer on the brakes, and see if the belt holds you back. The seatbelt retractors on your car are mounted in the center console. It's wicked easy to get to, there's usually a screw in the compartment under the elbow rest, and a couple on the side. Pull up the shifter boot surround, and undo the screws there. Pull on the handbrake, and slide the center console out over it. That will give you a good look at the shoulder belt retractors. The lap belt retractors are in the B-pillar.

Yeah, it might as well be screwed to the floor. But I'm used to the subaru axles holding up untill a boot tears and they get full of mud. The GCK's boots hold up just fine, but the joint grenades inside. All my subaru axles clicked for a while as they died a sandy death. These ones are fine, then POW, all done.

You can do what I did after cutting them: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84776 Worked out pretty good. I should take new pictures.

Just did it to the amazon GCK I bought to replace it. So that's another 5 months out of a GCK axle. It blew in exacly the same way, the bearing cage cracked into two rings. I was turning right like before, and pulling out from a stop sign. No wheelspin, and I got partway into the street before it blew. Popped it into 4wd, drove it to my friends house, and pulled the bits out. Didn't tear the boot or anything. That's pretty crappy to have them letting go this often. My autozone GCK that was remaining out of the first pair had the inner DOJ eat it's self, so I'll use the outer out of that one with the inner from this one and build one OK axle, and one junk axle to trade in at autozone for another reman one. I'd assume that something is screwed with the geometry of my front end to be grenading these things every 5 months. Seeing as I only get another 10 months left on my inspection, and I won't be getting this car inspected again, I guess I'll just keep throwing axles at the problem.

The other port you could use is on the top of the block by the bellhousing. There is a couple of bolts that tap into the oil galleries. using a banjo bolt there would get you an oil feed, and there is some space under the manifold there.

I'm sorry if you came looking for a knife fight and I dissapointed by not stabbing the carcass of the EA. I can say that, because the EA82 in my loyale did a good job for what it was. I didn't do a lick of maintenence to it other than scab in a vacuum soleniod. It got me to northern vermont, I tore it up up there, the engine put up will boiling like a bastard everytime I stopped. I daily drove that thing without worrying that it would leave me stuck. What impressed me most about it was the night I hydrolocked it. How many engines can be hydrolocked at 4k rpms, suck in so much water that when I pulled the rubber intake boot off, there was water up to the injector, and then be able to be restarted without any tools? I was able to give it kicks with the starter and get all that water to leak past the rings. I then drove out of the woods in a hurry, nailed the oil pan on a rock hard enough to rip the hoses off the radiator, and have it keep running. The engine may not have had a lot of power, but it was a tenacious little bastard. It was still running when I pulled it to do the EJ swap. That's what makes it NOT a POS. I've got good memories of that engine. So ************ off. I'm not going to call it crap just because it's low powered. Actions speak louder than words, and the fact I've got an EJ22 in my loyale says the power was important to what I need. That's why EJ's are the solution to power needs, and EA's never will be. Show me where the double talk is. Rhetoric? No, I'm speaking from personal experience. And since you have reading comprehension issues, I'll paraphrase it for you: EJ swaps are not blasphemous like chevy into ford swaps are. EJ swaps don't have to be expensive. Mine cost me under $100 Just because I swapped doesn't mean I hate the EA82. It had it's place, and I respect it for that. Building up an EA82T is throwing good money down a hole. I have an EA82t, and I plan on letting it make more power than it's capable of, for a short time, because I plan on swapping it.

I believe what the guy in coneticut with the legacy jacked wayyy up did was a strut bottom lift. I think they cut the the bracket off of the bottom of the strut that bolts to the knuckle, then took another set of struts, sawed them in half, so that they were empty tubes with the bracket at the bottom, and welded them onto the bottom of the working strut. This extended the strut, but didn't give the clearance/offset issues that would happen if you built an extension off of the working struts bracket. THIS WAGON:http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81629 You pretty much sleeve the bottom of the working strut with the gutted strut as an extension, then weld.

Stock EJ subaru cruise control uses vaccum to operate the actuator, but not engine vacuum. That soleniod thing over on the passenger side strut tower is a vacuum PUMP. It generates the vacuum to pull the actuators diaphram and control the throttle. If you hook the actuators line to the manifold, it should pull the throttle open as far as it can as the vacuum in the manifold dissapears. The cruise control vacuum lines should never hook to the manifold. They are their own sub-system.

There are a few misconceptions going on here. 1. Putting an EJ22 into a EA82 car is NOTHING like putting a chevy 350 into a RX7. Consider it a lot more like putting a 13b into where a 12a came from. It's not that the 12a is a sackless POS, it's just that the 13b is a lot better. The engines are made by the same manufacturer, but one is a much improved design. An EJ22 swap is not expensive. My car as a case in point. I bought a junk legacy for $75, beat the bag out of it for a year, then stripped the body for the swap into my car. We designed and machined the plate ourselves, mad it out of scrap aluminum left over from a reel-to-reel tape machine, opened up the flywheel holes, and ground the engine mounts down. I did a 1/4 rump roast job of stripping the wiring harness down, and if I wanted to, I could plug the EA82 motor and computer back in and drive the car, I left the origional harness. I cut and welded the EA82 exhaust to fit the EJ22 y-pipe, and it worked fine for a year. The EA82 isn't a POS. It would top out at 97mph running on 30" mudders. It's just that the EJ22 will do that in 3rd pulling onto the highway without you fully expecting it. The EA82 also didn't have enough low end torque, and stalled everywhere in the woods. Especially the snow. It bogged down and stalled in wet snow all the friggin time. EJ22, not so much. It will pull through a lot more before bogging. What I don't have in gearing, I try to make up for in engine. There isn't any reason to "build the piss" out of an EA82t. WJM tried that. And went through engines like babies go through diapers. You aren't pioneering anything or proving anything by building an EA82t. I bought a 86 T-wagon. I plan on "beating the piss" out of the motor, and when it blows, something better than an EJ is going in. I plan on loosening the MAF spring, opening up the exhaust, upping the boost, and feeding it extra substances. It should be fun for, oh, a week or so. I kill EA's before I swap them. My last one met a watery death, and then was driven with a bent rod for a while.

At first I thought you might be talking about the lack of power in the engine, and I was going to tell you, get used to it, it's normal. But then I read... There is a black plastic box by the battery attached to the drivers side strut tower. Inside are a bunch of wire loops. These are your "fusible links", basically wire made to burn up like a fuse if overloaded. Pull them out of their connectors one at a time and check them for contiuity. Clean up any corrosion, and see if that fixes it. They're usually the culprit in something like this.

I don't think anyone has mentioned using the spider manifold off of an XT yet, and I would think those would be good for a few HP.

I'd be tempted to approach this problem from the opposite direction, which is how the ECM detects cylinder misfire. The ECM uses the crank sensor wave form to determine if the crank speed is responding as expected for each cylinder firing. Sudden load changes on the drivetrain can be seen as cylinder misfires, I believe GM had a problem with their cylinder misfire detection being too sensitive and setting codes while offroading because of this. With Subaru's, I believe that you have to have a certain # of consecutive misfires for it to set a code. If the crank sensor was getting marginal, or possibly corrosion was holding it from being fully seated in its hole, making a larger air gap, it could send a misleading signal to the ECM. The other part to consider is the reluctor wheel teeth that are on the timing belt pully on the crank. If these are bent/chipped/damaged, the crank sensor could be putting out a weak signal. Or, the crank sensor signal could be encountering resistance in the wiring between it and the ECM, in the form of a corroded connector or whatnot. So there's some extra food for thought.

I'd say 160 lbs max. I can waddle around with one by myself, and I'm not in shape. 2 people carrying it makes it easy. Keeps the greasy mess from getting on your pants.

How often do you want to run 14's? I'm thinking that upping the boost to 10psi, putting an open exhaust system on, and feeding it the bottle with extra fuel might get you what you want a few times. A bit of washer fluid spray in the intake would help bring the charge temps down. Take some vids, and mabe get a diaper for the car so you don't oil the track.

Flood car. When I checked the tranny dipstick, mud chunks came up. I was thinking that if the ECU connectors were the same shape, I could repin them and build my harness, then only have to buy a EZ30 ECU. Having lost patience trying to snip down a EJ22 harness, I'm thinking more along the lines of building my own harness this time. Reuse the sensor wiring, but ditch all the ground and power wiring with a billion splices. The fancy auto stuff will be going in the can. I don't like autos, and I really don't like ones with mud chunks in them. Researching the Nabisco crew seems to suggest an EJ flywheel will bolt up to the EZ crank, and the 4 bolt EJ tranny will bolt up to the 8bolt EZ bellhousing. Do you have a copy of the EZ harness that I could use?

Will the legacy outback brackets work on an impreza, or will we have to find Forestor brackets?

Now see when I did my EJ swap, my wiring harness looked like picture one to start with, then I tried snipping it down to the minimum, got impatient, and stuffed all the extra wiring up into the dash cavity next to the steering column. It's still working 2 1/2 years later and it's only caught fire once. The SMJ got caught under the gas pedal, and what with the amount of time that spends crushed to the floor, it smooshed the wires. The later EZ wiring has an immobilizer system built in. This motor is out of a 2000, I think, pretty sure, mabe an 01 at the latest. So it should be the earlier wiring harness. I've had a reliable source tell me that the ECU plugs are the same physical shape between the EJ25 ECU and the EZ30 ECU. The car that the EZ30 came out of had been swapped to an EJ25 by a shop in florida. The harness must be fairly similar if you can swap the other direction.

IF the anti-drainback valve in the filter fails, then all the oil in the oil galleries and pump will dribble back to the oil sump overnight. When you start it in the morning, you will have no oil pressure in the engine untill the pump sucks up enough oil to pressurise the engine. This is wicked bad for the bearings.

My current wagon is running an EJ22, which is about all the rest of the EA82 drivetrain can handle with me driving. I'm bringing back a 86 T-wagon from wyoming this summer, and I know that motor won't last long. So I'm thinking an EJ 5spd and an EZ30 would be a nice replacement. Mabe with a turbo in the future to match the 4WD TURBO badging on the wagon. I can pick up an EZ30 for a reasonable price, its out of a flood car. I pulled a valve cover and it looks clean inside. The hitch is that the wiring stops at the engine plugs. So no ECM or firewall harness. It's out of a 2000 LLBean. I'm at the stage I was when I first thought about an EJ22 swap. That worked out well, so now I need to move up.

DId the engine sputter and die, and choke alonge a bit before it stopped, or did it just die? If the timing belt snaps, the disty won't get turned, the rpm signal won't get sent, and the pul pump won't get turned on. My dad was chasing a fuel pump problem , had all the diagrams printied out and laminated, and spent lots of time on it before he gave up on the car. I fixed the broken T-belt, and the fuel pump issue remedied its self.

Because it's the JDM Hawtness, that's why. Anyways, I'm using a legacy outback steering coupler for my EA82 wagon, so they seem to be close enough. Splines on the rack and the coulmn seemed to line up with the coupler splines.

The words of a man who knows the sting of the whip. I'm always amazed at the amount of money people justify paying for having the dealership do work. Find a local shop, not a squeeky clean one, a mom and pop shop. They can usually do just as good of a job, and you're supporting a small local business. It's cheaper too.

Yup, did this on my dad's legacy when we replaced the rear crossmember due to rust. The crossmember we put in didn't have anything left of the bushings, so we sealed up the bottom of the hole with tape, located the center part, and packed the 2 part urethane in. We used pretty stiff stuff, and you can hear more rear differential whine in the back now. There's different grades for vibration dampening and whatnot.