WoodsWagon

It's usually said when people are discussing doing the 3.7-3.9 LSD swap, that you need to keep the LSD stub axles with the carrier. They look almost the same, but that one machineing ridge was a bit different, so I wanted to be sure. Good to know that you can mix and match them. The stub sheared at a diagonal, across the splines and through the roll pin hole. Never seen one go that way, usually they just twist off with a clean break. The bearing cap got chewed up by the CV cup because it was off at an angle. Wore near a 1/4" of alluminum off.

Is there really that big of a difference to cause problems? I just sheared the stub axle in my rear LSD, and I put in one out of a normal diff. The only difference I could see was that the step to the surface the seal rides on was a little different. It seemed to go in fine and turn OK, so I'm running with it.

I think the OP was looking for a higher power engine. Swapping in an EJ22 would take them in the opposite direction. There's only two ways to go better than the SOHC EJ25 in your forrestor, A turbo 2.5 swap, or a 3.0 H6 swap. These are being done in the imprezza bodies, so you could do them to the forrestor just as easily. Both swaps are a lot of electrical work, so be aware it's not just plug and play.

Hey, I'm replacing engines at about a 10k interval in my car, and trannies at 8k intervals, so an alternator seems like an easy problem to have. Alts don't usually leave you stranded either. It's not like the T-belt that stops you dead. You usually have 10-15 miles run time on the battery. But yes, always spend you hard earned money, and lots of it, buying dealership service and parts. It's just the right thing to do.

I believe what he's saying is that the head casting is cracked away from the stud hole. This is way worse than the normal stripped stud hole. There is no clamping strength left in the split hole, where as a stripped hole can be tapped and helicoiled and have the origional strength. You can weld the whole area in, then center and redrill a hole. This is a PITA with the head in the car, as you will be welding above you. So you would remove the head to weld it on the bench. Or, you can get another used head, and with less work just swap them out.

Main problem. That and the right foot is controling an EJ22. I've smoked two transmissions rear drives now too.

The other thing to consider is the rest of the drivetrain. Putting an EJ25 into the older drivetrain may lead to a lot of breakage. I have a 2.2 in my EA82, and I blow transmissions, rear ends, and axles all the time. I've been tempted by a 2.5, but I think it would just lead to even more carnage.

I wouldn't expect the 7500 mile oil to actually still be in the engine 7.5k later. A 28 year old abused engine is going to burn/leak oil. This is why Subaru thought to put a dipstick front and center on their engine. You can monitor the level of the oil in the engine with this simple device, avoiding the "OMG it's got no oil" problem.

Anyone know the dimensions it's supposed to be? I've eaten through a few sets of front wheel bearings. Granted, I abuse the 1992 loyale a lot, but the rate I've been going through them is getting abusive to my wallet. I'm wondering if part of the problem might be a crushed center spacer. That would put too much preload on the bearings and bring about the early death. I think SeaHag1978 had this problem with one of her brats. Either way, I'll measure it while I replace the bearings tonight, and compare what I get to what it should be.

Heck, I've blown up 2 off these diffs without any gear modification. They are not strong diffs. Putting the impact loading of free movement and then full bind of welded teeth on the spider gears will shatter them in no time. Plus, you would have to make an equal amount of left turns and right turns alternating to not have it bind up like a normal welded diff. As soon as you make two right turns in a row, you're back to the same amount of bind as a welded diff.

I don't think this has been pointed out yet, but if you have converted to SPFI, you MUST block off the AIS. The SPFI uses the O2 sensor to adjust the fuel trim. With the AIS system operational, the computer will always get a lean reading from the O2 sensor and run wicked rich all the time. Sucky gas milage and higher emmisions will result.

For the turn signals, just grab the bulb sockets out of a rear taillight/brakelight from a subaru. I used legacy ones. Splice the wires from your stock turn signals in, and use a dremel to cut the hole in the side marker light bigger. If you make a notch in the hole, You can have the socket pop in and lock when you turn it. Use an amber dual filament bulb, and the clear side markers will light up the yellow you need. Helps simplify the front lighting scene.

Millermatic 185, setting 1, 20" wire feed speed. Straight argon. Welds looked a lot better thursday when I did them, the salt water from the road has already rusted them up good. I tacked it down with a lot of spot welds, then did 1" beads switching from spot to spot. Don't stay too long, or work in one area too much, the whole fender will warp and you will be in suckageville. I'll have to do a bit of grinding to level the beads out before I paint, some of the spot welds stick out a bit. The dents and puckers were already in that fender. I rubbed it pretty good on a tree chasing a cat on the property. Smashed the corner light too, so I had to replace that. Take your time, and grind the paint off where you're welding. Clean is a must. Oh, and how can you even tell from that picture? My camer sucks rump roast, it can't focus, and that picture is pretty blurry.

Looks awesome. You definiately got your approach angles back. Might want to add in a beefy skid plate to match. I wish my fab work came out that nice.

So it's getting to be inspection time again. The stock fenders that I cut to fit the larger tires are getting rusty, and the fenders never covered the tires, a failing offence. I spotted the solution in the junkyard: a 1994 Cavalier. Not the actual car but I would support cutting this one up too. So I cut out the fender flare, and a strip going down to the rocker to replace the rotted out area. Welded them up into place and they look good. A bit of grinding and some black spray paint, and it'll be perfect.

Yeah, let me experiment with placing this sharp object as far as I can up my nose... Some things are not worth experimenting with, and I am pointing out the limitations of the subaru front end. It's not the suspension that's limiting it, it's the axles. Subaru's have a remarkably tight turning angle, which is already a stress on the axles. Adding into that vertical angles beyond the design specs, and the abuse of offroading, and you will break them faster than you can put them in. Seeing that the rear suspension can flex farther with longer travel shocks and assuming you can get the front to do the same doesn't work. Most likely the thinking abou the torsion bar front is a mental exercise, and I am pointing out why it should stay that way. I went back to find out why you were being a wongleflute. I guess you still have a bottle brush in a private area because of this. Get over it.

The difference in flex between the front and the rear is caused by the axles, not the suspension. In the rear, the joints only have to deal with the angle of vertical offsett. In the front, you have the same angle, PLUS the angle of steering. So that puts a big limitation on the amount of allowable travel. If you are doing a t-case swap, use a solid front axle for flex. It will give you the differential rotating with suspesion travel, and the articulation you want.

As someone who has a car in the family experiencing this problem, and as a working tech, I feel compelled to offer a clear and concise explanation. Part one: All 4cyl engines vibrate at idle. Some vibrate worse than others, like my mom's outback, which has extreemly bad piston slap and a compression reduction due to it on one cyl. When the transmission is in park or neutral, or the clutch is pushed in, the engine transmission unit vibrates by its self on the rubber mounts. This is because no torque is being transfered out of the unit. Part two: The length of the axle is not the problem here. If it was bottoming in the joint, the axle would destroy it's self or the transmission as soon as the suspension compressed. The problem is the tolerances in the Constant Velocity joints. In a perfect world, there would be no rotational backlash between the inner DOJ cup and the outer hub splines. When you are buying a $60 part made by low-wage workers, you are not buying a perfect world. This excess backlash means that the inner cup can rotate back and forth without turning the wheel hub. Part three: With the tranny in drive, there is a load being transmitted from the ilding engine, through the fluid coupling, and out to the differential. This is not smooth torque, due to the low RPM's and torque impulses being generated by the firing cyl's. The subaru torque converters are fairly "tight" as in they transmit a fair portion of the engine's torque at low engine speeds. So the variations in engine torque are sent right through to the transmission and out to the differential stub axles. Conclusion: The torque variations present on the stationary differential stub axles try to turn the halfshafts with a changing amount of force. The outer end of the halfshafts is held stationary by the brakes. As the torque varies on the inner DOJ cup, it experiences slight rotational movement With greater tolerances in the CV joints, the rotational movment will become greater. This creates a hammering action on the joints. This hammering is transmitted to the wheel hub assembly and is felt through the steering linkage and the suspension. Solution: Replace the axle with one that was manufactured to much closer tolerances. OR Replace the torque converter with a high-stall performace version. This converter will be much less efficient at transmitting toque at low RPM's, and so the torque variations experienced by the transmission at idle will be greatly reduced. I guess that wasn't as concise as I hoped, but I think it covers most of the angles of the problem. Okie440, realize that calling a large group of people delusional morons who can't install piston rings is a poor way of justifying your lack of understanding. You are not the only technical expert on the internet, and the reality that someone who may know more than you is out there always exists. Thumping your fist on the virtual table and disparaging peole who offer an alternative explanation doesn't get anyone anywhere. So I hope you stuck around long enough to read my explanation.

They lock tighter the hotter they get, so getting agressive with the wheel spin might have helped a bit. But by then you have patches of ice under your wheels. Clutch pack LSD's are better for stuck situations. The viscous ones are better at dynamic situations.

This is a loyale wagon right? Open the hatch, open up the smugglers hatch in the floor in the back, pull the two rubber plugs on either side of the smugglers hatch. These are the bumper bolt access holes. Loosen the bolts a little bit, let the bumper settle down, then re-tighten them. No come a longs, jacks, or hammers. Sit on the bumper if you have to when you tighten the bolts.

Are you replacing just 2 or all 4? If you're doing all 4, using turbo pistons will probably lower your compression ratio, which is good for a turbo motor because the detonation that cracked your pistons is caused by boost+timing+lean mix+high comp. Lowering the compression a bit will lead to a more durable motor, though less off-boost power. Oh, and that big spring on the wastegate actuator may be leading to boost spikes. do you have a boost gauge on the engine that you can watch while driving? Sick buggy. I have acces to a similar frame, just missing a lot of parts.

Do I have to point out that it only takes a 10, 12 and 13 mm socket and 15 minutes to swap out an alt? It's right there, easy to take off and on, no reaching around. In the time it took you to post this, read the responses, and post up your response, you could have had it swapped out. Who cares if it burnt up in 8 mo's, get the free replacement and throw it on. If they need it to test bad, there's ways to kill them. Bring the smoking wreckage in and get yours exchanged.

The thing about subaru transmissions is that they put a pair of drainplugs in the bottom. Changing the transmission oil and the front diff oil is as easy as changing the engine's oil. It's so easy to do, it's stupid not to. Do it every 15k miles, and the transmission will last fine. Not like the american POS's that you have to drop the pan and make a mess with.

The dual range is a must, it's no harder than changing out a normal transmission. I can do it in a day if I'm working solid. If I had a hydraulic lift, instead of a pit I could have it done in 4-5 hours max. In answer to how you turn big tires in a loyale: engine swap. You will get fed up of bogging out on hillclimbs and will wish for more torque. That's where the EJ-series engine swaps come in. That's a lot more work than swapping a dual range though.

No, but a loose crank pully would. Or if he used a prybar to get the pully off and tore the bonded rubber inside of it. look at it and see if you can see it wobbling.