WoodsWagon
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Everything posted by WoodsWagon
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They are still sold on amazon. This is a N/A front axle, you'll have to look at the compatability chart to find a turbo one. http://www.amazon.com/GCK-Industrial-SB8004-Front-Wheel/dp/B000FF8S0E/ref=sr_1_1/104-2821296-6495167?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1193785732&sr=1-1 However, the quality of GCK axles may have come down recently. They are still brand new axles, not remans, but I have had one outer joint grenade on the street, and one inner joint that vibrated from the day it was new. The outer joint had it's race crack in half, the boot was not torn, and the inner one had it's bearings disentegrate, and a shard of the bearings poked a small hole in the boot from the inside. The grease was still good and black inside, just full of hardend steel grits. I think both may have been manufacturing defects. The chinglish directions on the box make me suspicious too.
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Sonova! I grenaded another tranny!
WoodsWagon replied to WoodsWagon's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Yup, smoked the rear drive gears. This is the second time I've done this. The two gears aren't fully meshed. The pinion shaft one is like a 1/4" offset forward of the rear driveshaft one. I can't remember if there's some thrust washer for these gears other than the double ball bearing main pinion shaft thrust bearings. Something doesn't seem right about the gears not lining up. I discovered just how trashed my inner CV was too. It's a GCK axle, 6 months old at the max, and I noticed the boot was leaking. It has vibrated under acceleration since the day I put it in. There was a shard of metal poking out through the hole in the boot. I pulled the boot back to find that all three of the tripod bearings had disintegrated, and the three rollers were riding right on the tripod. Unfortunately GCK uses a different axleshaft spline, so I can't put one of my spare subaru inner CV's on. -
Sorry Moosens, the tranny you sold me put up the good fight, but it's toast now. How many miles did that one have on it? I was breaking trail through the snow so that my friends tacoma could follow my tracks up. There was a large waterbar in the abanoned road, big enough that you drive the car down into it, then climb out the other side. On the last one of them, I rolled into the throttle to climb up the other side and there was the rapid fire BAM BAM BAM that I've grown to recognise and hate. I figured I'd smoked another diff untill I put it in 2wd and it was still making noise. I pulled it to the side, and we continued up in my friends Taco. Made it about 100yds further before the truck was buried. It doesn't do well when it doesn't have a trail broken for it. We ended up getting his truck so buried that he had to call in a friend with a Cherokee to come and try pulling him out. The cherokee had a rear locker and 35" MT's, and ended up sinking to the axles trying to pull the Taco out. He couldn't even move the taco. So we used the Jeep to drag my car up the trail close enough that I could hook my winch cable up to the Taco. Winched him out no problem. I had to reverse down a mile of trail in 2wd to get out of the woods. Ended up sliding out and almost hitting a tree on the way down. Drove it home, and had to ride the handbrake the whole time to keep the transmission loaded because it would start locking up if I let it coast. I think I stripped the rear drive gears. I'll have the tranny out in another hour, I've got it stripped down so that the only things left holding it in are reachable from above.
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This suggestion is up there with using copper tubing and using compression fittings. All of these are worse than putting a common nail in the flare fitting to block the flow. At least with the nail you will have a high, hard pedal and 3 working brakes. With the other hack repairs, you will have a good pedal untill you actualy need it, when whoosh it will go to the floor. If you had gotten in an accident with your VW, and an accident investigation had been done, your mechanic's head would have been on the chopping block for that brake hose. Doing hack repairs on anything other than the brake and steering systems is fine by me, because it is you that will burn to death or be sitting on the side of the road on a dark and rainy night. Brakes and steering systems are there so you can avoid killing other people. It's inexcusable to do shoddy repairs on these systems. If you can't stop or can't turn, and you hit and kill someone else, you just took an innocent life because you were too lazy/cheap to fix the brakes right. The only acceptable brake repairs are with steel brake line, double flare or bubble flare fittings, or brake hose intended for automotive use with fittings already crimped onto the end. Hose clamps do not count as crimps. Get a flaring kit, bend the brake line by hand. Practice with some smaller pieces first. It takes a little skill to not kink the line when bending it. Oh, and use a countersink or the blade on the back of the tubing cutter to de-burr the inside of the cut tube. Your flares will suck if you don't. This is a job easily done at home, I live in the rust belt like you, so I end up doing this fairly often.
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Good Day in Junkyard! LSD -WHOOT-
WoodsWagon replied to slideshow86's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Did you change the gear ratio, or was the old rear diff a 3.7:1 also? Oh, and if you find another one for the same price, I'll double your money and pay for shipping. -
There is a new polymer coat out for brake lines. Buy the lines that look blackish, not the shiny ones. The shiny ones will be rotted within 2 years. ALWAYS DOUBLE FLARE BRAKE LINES. Line pressure can hit 2,000psi under emergency braking conditions. A compression union will blow off the line at this pressure, leaving you without brakes at the worst possible time.
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Update: flat towed wagon 2,500mi
WoodsWagon replied to WoodsWagon's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I was apparently part of the "lynch mob" that argued against him. It was a joke. I respect the ea series engines for being able to put up with a lot of abuse and still keep running, but they are dogs when it comes to mmoving the car quickly. I already have one EJ swap, now I'm addicted. If anyone has a spare rear crossmember along I-80 between New York and Wyoming, I'd be interested. The origional owners bought 4 brand new tires for it, they literally have never been driven on. It seemed like they were confident the car was a good runner before their son pulled the tranny because of an apple-cored governor. Seemed he thought it needed a tranny rebuild because it wouldn't shift... and lost the TC in the process of letting the tranny sit in the shed. -
This is pulled off of EndWrench for the '99+ speed density systems In reference to the rear O2 sensor When a lean air-fuel mixture is burnt in the engine, oxygen remains in the exhaust gases even after the catalytic action, and this results in a small difference in the oxygen concentration. The electromotive force generated is very small. The difference in oxygen concentration changes greatly in the vicinity of the optimum air-fuel ratio (stoichiometric), and the change in electromotive force is also large at this point. By inputting this information to the ECM, the air-fuel ratio of the supplied mixture can be determined. Since this information is collected after the exhaust gases have passed through the catalytic converter, the effectiveness of the converter can also be determined. Normal O2 sensor boilerplate description, but it seems to say the for the speed density system, it uses the rear sensor as well to determine the fuel air mix.
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Hard to get 5 spd into gear.
WoodsWagon replied to RAugur33's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Pull the rubber plug on the bellhousing, have someone else start the car with it in gear with the clutch depressed. See if you can hear any squeeling noises coming out of the bellhousing. What might have happened is the pilot bearing is seizing up. This will keep the input shaft spinning when the clutch is pushed in, when it shouldn't. -
Cat's don't just die in 30k miles, they get killed. Something else is wrong. The engine has to be running too rich. What's the MPG like on the car? You put the anti fouler on the O2 sensor after the cat right? Oh, by the way, these aren't O2 simulators. All this does is shroud the O2 from the exhaust gas flow, slowing the readings down and making the computer think that the cat is working. This is an O2 simulator http://www.afterthoughtsauto.com/o2sim.html
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Another 1986 GL Sedan question-door locks
WoodsWagon replied to thelynns's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I'm pretty sure it explains this in the owners manual if you still have it. Holding the handle up is the key. I find it a usefull feature because when you have that last minute thought as you swing the door shut of "oh darn, I think I left the keys in it", you just let go of the handle, and the door doesn't lock as it slams shut. It could be more of a PITA, on honda's to use the interior lock lever while the door is open, you have to hold the interior door handle in the open position while you flip the lock shut. -
Update: flat towed wagon 2,500mi
WoodsWagon replied to WoodsWagon's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
This isn't a thread about the general quality of the engines, It's a what's the chance this type of engine will hold together long enough to make it. EA82's and T's suck because they have 3 main bearings. Need I say more? I thought I had already said this, but looking back I had never written it down. I have a EJ25 or an EZ30 to go into this car. My plan is to crank the boost when, and if, the motor makes it home. The flapper door's don't have any fuel cut right? So mo' power unil max boom. The water pump is a good thing I wouldn't have thought of untill I needed it. The car was $160, it has a sunroof. I like sunroofs a lot. It has the rear swaybar, disk brakes, pretty much no rust. I have an EJ 5spd to put into it, I have a wiring harness. -
Update: flat towed wagon 2,500mi
WoodsWagon replied to WoodsWagon's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
here's a pic of the car in question: -
A short shifter on a subie tranny isn't really what you want. The leverage of the long shifter gives you the force on the sychros you need to shift the tranny quick. I can "plow" the transmission into gears just as fast as any honda can snick-snick through them. If you can't handle grabbing a shifter and giving it a quick 8" haul, you need to work on your reflexes, not the shifter. I'm on my third tranny... and engine...
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I bought a 1986 GL-10 T-wagon out in Wyoming. It had it's tranny (auto) removed, and has sat for a few years. I took the rear crossmember out of it and left it on blocks in my uncles yard. I'm going back this summer with a tranny out of my touring wagon ($75 special), I'm going to find a crossmember somewhere, put everything together and hope it runs. It was "put away running" and looks OK under the hood. What are the chances of a 22 year old car that's sat for at least 4 years making it 2,600 miles home? Or, how strong should I build the tow bar to attach it to the back of my truck when it blows?
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Converting a T2 bus to EJ power
WoodsWagon replied to WoodsWagon's topic in Vanagon Conversion Discussion
It's a 71 Smooth front windshield (bay window???) bus. The T1's had a split windshield right? -
I think the 1995 Manny Tranny EJ22 is the best. Non interference, dual port exhaust, roller rockers, no EGR. It's easy to retrofit an earlier engine harness onto it to use OBD1. So it's the best.
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You can bet that if you had the engine assembled by a dealer tech, the only bolts that they would torque would be the headbolts. Every other bolt on the engine you tighten untill it feels appropriate for the size of the bolt. Use a smaller ratchet on the cam cap bolts, and just snug them up. Don't crank on them, just tight and then a little force more. If you just trust the torque wrench, you don't really get a feel for how hard you cranked it down. That leads to snapped or loose bolts.