WoodsWagon

Where google fails the USMB members pull through! Thank you. We'll put the bus motor back in for now to get it street legal. I'll build the 2.5l for the swap.

You might want to look at this: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1388040

The carbon cannister has 2 seperate air circuits through it. One goes from tank, through carbon, and out the atmospheric hose. The other goes in atmospheric hose, through carbon, and into purge solenoid, then manifold. You're purge solenoid should have blocked the flow of gas, as it is normally closed. Having a carbon cannister would have protected you from this, as gas will always go out the atmospheric hose rather than into the purge line.

It's on the drivers side of the transmission. It's a large hex head, like 19 or 22mm, and it has 2 wires going into it. You unplug the connector that the two wires lead to, use a wrench to unthread the switch from the side of the tranny. Make sure you have the aluminum washer on the new switch before you thread it in. 1/2 hour job at the max if you're clueless. 5 min if you know what you're doing. Oh, and the shifter not centering is because the return spring has dissapeared. If you look at the shifter linkage where it meets the tranny, there will be 2 rods coming down. One has a big bushing on the end, this is the support rod. The metal washer that holds this rod onto the tranny has an ear with a hole in it sticking up. The other rod is the shift rod. It has an ear with a hole sticking down. There should be a spring hooked between these two ears.

The combustion process produces water vapor. When you first start the car up, the exhaust system is cold, and the hot water vapor condenses on the inside of the exhaust. This water is blown down the exhaust pipes, and along the way it picks up carbon soot that had been left on the inside of the exhaust by running the engine before. When the exhaust system temperature comes up to the same temp as the exhaust gas, the water doesn't condense and the carbon dries out and re-ahere's to the walls of the exhaust system. It's normal.

strut bar? check warm air intake? check throttle body spacer? not yet painted brake calipers? not sure, but by the way of things they must be coming soon. Those are not "vacuum fittings" those are PCV lines. The stock air intake tube has metered holes that those hook up to, so you're PCV system probably isn't working as it should now. I don't normally rain on people's parades, but someone who throws a strut bar on to attempt to correct "annoying handling issues" is going about it all wrong. If you're going to do booty fab, at least do it right: Yes, that is a hand made hood scoop over the plywood airbox with pipe insulation to seal it to the hood. Cone air filter too. The spray can racing stripes are extra. So is the outback strut lift and 17" wheels. When the car looks so hack people can tell you just don't give a F any more and are just having fun, then it's OK. But when you do mod's like that and present it like you actually think it helps the car, you have a problem.

Latest pic. It's beautiful. Or mabe I just have an unhealthy obsession with it? I'm building an engine for it this spring. 71 302 block, 96 GT40 heads, flat top pistons, and new bearings and seals. Summit cam, duration: 262/272, Lift .448/.472, should be good for low end. The engine will spend it's life at 6k+ feet altitude, so easy breathing and high compression is a must. Once it's built, I'll throw it and a subie 3at in the back of my Tacoma, drive it out there, swap up the motor in the Bronco, and the tranny in my 86 T-wagon, and bring that home. It'll be a couple of years before I live out in Wyo. Not sure how many Honda dealerships there are out there that are hiring. Best get my resume filled in a bit more before making the leap.

Having negative camber wear on the tires is really unlikely with the lift. Back end mabe if you folded the crossmember, but not it the front. You have toe issues. If you have the rear crossmember up near it's origional location and the suspension cranked way down, you will be way out of allignment. My wagon burns the tires off evenly. The two pairs of BFG 235/75r15's I burned through on the front were evenly worn the whole way across. Get someone to at least put the car up on the alignment rack and show you how far you are out.

Try a couple smacks with a hammer from the backside after you have the caliper bracket off. Sometimes the rust can hold them in place a bit. If you have new rotors to go on, feel free to get agressive. Or you could use the 2 bolts to push it off, your choice.

Best solution to the EGR issue? Put in a 1990-94 EJ22. Ditch that EA piece of junk. Those motors aren't worth the aluminum they're made out of. I've been impressed by the amount of beating they'll take, but they were guttless to the end. None of the EJ22's (except the 95+ automatic's) have EGR systems. No valve, no solenoid, no computer throwing a code if it isn't there. And you break the 130hp mark as well, with milage in the high 20's.

A friend picked up a T2 in good shape for cheap. The single carb engine in it ran, but he pulled it to do a reseal. He's going to be using the bus to display his skateboarding products at shows and events. This means driving the bus a fair ways loaded, which = the suck on New England roads. One option is to throw bigger jugs and pistons on the stock engine and try to squeeze a bit more out of it. The other is to EJ power the bus. I'm preferential to this, as he is because his other 2 vehicles are subarus. It looks like a subaru engine will physically fit in the bus's engine compartment, I can handle the wiring, we can machine the adapter plate. The Kennedy adapter kits look like they weld a new hub-center into the flywheel to match the subaru crank. I have a spare oil pan to shorten. The radiator is another issue. Option 1 is putting it at the front like the south american T2's did with a cowling sticking out the front of the bus. This looks horrible in my opinion. Option 2 is using up some of the passenger compartment in the back and pulling cool air through the stock side vents. Option 3 is mounting it horizontally under the bus's floor, with fans. I guess that bus's with A/C (a laughable option I would think) put the condenser under the floor with fans, so Option 3 might make sense. I haven't run across many resources for T2's to subaru. One last question is whether the added power of the EJ22 will turn the T2 into even more of a death trap. Is there ways to upgrade the brakes and handling of the bus to a safe level?

All listed in the back of your owners manual. In other words, RTFM!

The plastic spedometer gear doesn't connect to the front diff on the 5spd's. There is a worm style gear in the counter/pinion shaft back behind the gearsets. Notice that the spedometer cable doesn't enter the tranny up by the differential, but more back by the transfer case. For the vibrations to affect the spedo gear, you would have had to trash at least 2 sets of bearings holding the pinion shaft. You would have bigger problems than the spedo gear at that point.

(Editted for content by Qman!) I just pulled this off of a Datsun forum.

The pictures already up don't show you enough? They look 100% the same as an open diff, only the sticker is different on the outside. Unless you want action shots of the wagon blowing donuts.

Our 98 outback has the piston slap bad. When we bought it, it had blown head gaskets, so I didn't want to run it up to operating temp to see if the slap would go away. I pulled the motor, and when I had the heads off, I could rock the pistons in their bores a bit. Didn't remember being able to do that with the 2.2l. Anyways, like a fool I put it back together with new gaskets. It raps something vicious when cold, then settles down to a loud diesel engine rap when it warms up. We took it out to Wyoming and back, a 5,000 mile roadtrip. It held up fine. Other than the embarrasing noise, it runs fine, returns expected gas millage, and doesn't smoke, so.... we ignore it.

I've gotten two bad brand new GCK axles. Bad vibrations under load. Now that I have a new bad axle on both sides, I get interesting harmonics that set up. It felt like loose lug nuts at first, but after that I figured i'd just put up with it. It sucks. It shakes hard taking off hard at intersections, it shakes around 45-65 on the highway.

Legacy brighton with origional springs + kyb outback struts on the left, 1998 stock outback on the right. Same rims and tire size on both of them. The older legacy's may be different. Here's the one me and konrad put together, we used outback struts but for the life of me I can't remember which springs we used. We had to take the springs off to swap the strut caps. I think we used the outback springs, but i'm not sure.

While nipper may be all excited by a bad front pump causing low line pressure when it warms up, I have a different theory. What else warms up when the car is running? The electronics. If the TCU is having an open when it warms up (thermal expansion of the components), and isn't actually activating the 2n'd clutches solenoid, the tranny will never shift up. You haven't redlined the thing, so it's not seeing an error. If you have a spare TCU, it would make sense to plug it in. Using skip's suggestion of putting a test light on the TCU shift solenoid outputs makes a lot of sense. I wouldn't say replace the tranny untill you're sure the TCU is actually commanding it to shift or not.

You don't need the outback springs. My dad's legacy brighton on outback struts only is the same height as my mom's outback. The springs don't get you any more lift unless you get King Springs. If you do put lift springs on, I would put the crossmember drops in.

What's all this about torque specs??? I just cranked them down to what felt right with a 1/4" drive ratchet. 10k miles later, it's still running great, other than the piston slap that is.

First Subaru I broke? My dad's old 86 3-door. Rusted to pieces, I fixed the t-belt to get it running again, beat the snots out of that car. Learned to drive manual on that car, learned how to correct slides in that car, learned all sorts of valuable lessons on that one. Backed it into a tree, the tree was about 3" in diameter, and right in the blind spot on the drivers side. It crushed the corner of the quarter panel, luckily didn't touch the hatch, but the side of the car was rumpled up over the wheel well and around the rear quarter window. My car, hit a tree sideways doing 4wd drifing in the snow. Overcorrected and let off on the throttle, car went out the other direction, off my driveway, and into the tree. Second incident was hitting a stump wheeling in the woods and bending a raius rod and the body where it mounts. Third big event was hydrolocking the EA82 at like 4,000rpms. RrrrrrrrrCRACK..... gurgle gurgle. That night sucked. Got it running again, then hit a rock on the way out so hard the engine ripped the hoses off of the radiator and the steering column bent on the engine bay end. Ran that motor occaionaly for a few weeks before the EJ22 went in.

Whatever the real story behind the OP's life, whether he actually owns a business or has come up with a ficticious business to front an on-line persona, has no bearing on the question. Heck, I'd still be driving my car if I had plenty of money to burn. My car gets attention. Attention unlike any lifted toyota, jeep or chevy does. It's because it's the only one like it in a huge area. You may not like EA82 body's, that's your personal preferance. I like them, I find them perfectly servicable, and once you ditch the origonal engine, they actually perform pretty well. Calling the OP a immature, young, stupid, gauranteed flash in the pan is pointless. It may make you feel like a man for the 30 seconds it took you to write and post it, but seriously, who gives a fu ck what you think about his life plan? Keep that to yourself. Oh, and the reason most brats born into money don't end up on welfare? TRUST FUNDS. Have you never heard of a succesful company run into the ground because the owner handed it over to his son's? I can name a few off the top of my head, my freshest example is a buddy of mine, top salesman years running, who was laid off because the company he worked for found the accounts had been drained to pay for the inheriting sons' lavish trips and other expenses. Great management style, burn the money on fun stuff and then make sure you make lots of future income by laying off the sales staff. Always remember that half of the people in this country are below average. You can't trust the government, but you sure as hell can't trust the "people" either. In answer to the origional question: The only way to find out the value is to have a liscenced appraiser look at the car and the documentation to go with it. End of story. No online fix for that one.

If you open the hood, over by the base of the windshield on the passenger side you will see a milky white plastic container. This is the vacuum storage bottle. There will be a rubber hose running from this through the firewall, and another rubber hose running down to the intake manifold on the engine. Make sure both of these hoses are hooked up, and that they don't have cracks. Listen for a hissing noise while the engine is running in this area. The vents use vacuum to move the doors inside the ductwork, so if there isn't any vacuum reaching the controls, the air will only blow out of the dash vents.

Between the snowstorm on thrursday and the one last night, there's enough snow that I can't drive my car down the trails anymore. Heck, I lose momentum on slight uphills. Plus the engine got the hottest I've ever seen it go, it was up to the 3/4 mark on the EA82 dash, with the EJ22 temp sensor, which usually reads at a 1/4 at full operating temp. The whole wide open for extended periods while plowing lots of snow and having all 4 spinning was a lot of strain I guess.