WoodsWagon

EJ22 OBD1, dual range EA82 tranny. Loyale body, 4" lift. Using stock loyale radiator, saab 9000 turbo pusher fan running backwards to fit in engine side of fan.

Wrong. Only the turbo MANUAL transmissions have the 25 spline axles. ALL AUTOMATICS have the 23 spline axles, turbo and non turbo. This is why you can swap a normal 4wd tranny in without changing the axles on the automatics. The turbo 3speeds are built a bit stronger than the non turbos, but a non turbo auto will work just fine. They're all POS anyway, but the car will be back on the road. A 5spd swap is the best route, but any 3spd auto will plug and play.

You can also use any non turbo 3 speed auto tranny. Don't limit yourself to the turbo ones.

There's a white EA81 hatch in the Peterborough area. There's also an EA81 brat being restored in Lynebourough. In my area, there's a guy with about 10 parts brats, a 6" lifted blue brat with a white roll bar, a wrx scoop in the hood, and a stack. He's a member here, but he never visits. 20 buck brat is his username.

I had 2 1/4" exhaust from the cat back on my Ej22. Only muffler on it was a 20" cherry bomb at the very end. It was loud. Kinda fun for the first 20mins, then annoying. It sucked on long drives, felt like someone had been boxing your ears what with the resonances inside the car. I went to the JunkYard and picked up a Flowmaster for $15. Cut the cherry bomb off, tacked the flowmaster on.. Way worse. Louder than the cherry bomb, really bad crackel when you snapped off the throttle. So I put the cherry bomb in front of the back axle, and the flowmaster back by the gas tank. welded it all together, and now it's wicked quiet. Well, compared to the cherry bomb that is. As one of the guys at work said, "It's amazing how two things known for being loud can be so quiet when put together."

I had swapped a RHD EJ22 into my car after I cooked the EJ22 I had in it. The engine was free, it had been diagnosed as having bad rod nock by one shop. The owner, a postal driver, had dropped the RHD legacy off at another shop with a replacement engine. The owner of that shop didn't think the engine was bad, and had me take a listen. I told him it was probably a cracked TC flexplate. They pulled the motor, voila, cracked flexplate. The replacement engine had <100k miles on it, so they put it in anyway because the legacy had a lot of miles on it and a low milage engine couldn't hurt. The postal driver didn't want the old engine, so the shop gave it to me. My car was running on 3cy's at the time, so it was a perfect opportunity. They had to cut a few plugs off of the RHD engine harness to put the used engine in. I had a spare engine kicking around with a good harness on it, so a friend swapped the harneses over for me while I readied the engine bay for the switcheroo. We chucked the engine in, it ran good, had plenty of power for a high milage engine that's seen nothing but stop and go driving since day one. But it had a miss at idle. It had blips here and there as it warm idled. I tried plugs, tried wires, tried techron fuel cleaner, and decided to just ignore it when nothing worked. Untill I saw this: The light bulb went on.. swapped harness... missfires.. sequential injection... fine at speed, misses at idle.. it all came toghether. Went out and swapped the 1 and 3 injector plugs. Ta Da! misfire gone. I was so happy I took it out for a good wheeling run.

What kind of misfire? Like at idle, under load, all the time? One cyl dead, random missfires?

Older EJ22's, like 90-94 will usually be alloy, which is the best. 95+ will be the plastic POS.

The hardest part can be getting the shift collar to slide off of the shifter shaft after you drive out the two roll pins. I usually have to heat the snots out of it to get it to come off the shaft with an air chisel. You have to do this because of the way the bolt goes throught the bushing. Or, you could do what I did, grind the nut off of the bolt, sawzall the bolt up and take it out in peaces (pieces, peices??? wtf my spelling is shot tonight, must be something to do with saturday) Make a bushing out of 1/2 aluminum rod stock, drill a hole through the middle for a replacement bolt to fit, put the bolt in from the other direction, it will be loose in 1 hole, but don't worry about it, once it's tight it's fine. Coat the aluminum in grease and put it all together. It makes a nice snik, snik noise as you shift and tightens it up a lot. The other bushings are easy to do, it's the one right next to the driveshaft U-joint that sucks. My shifter used to be able to cover the whole face of the radio in 3rd gear. Now I'm down to a few preset buttons of side play.

The other thing to look at is the hoses running to the PCV valve. The hose that hooks to the valve goes to a T, one hose runs up to the air intake tract, and a 3/4" hose runs straight down to the block. Remove this hose, the T, and the PCV valve hose, and clean them thouroughly. I've found them to be restricted by carbon gunk fairly often.

You may be able to beat the firewall enough to get no rubbing during suspension compression, but you will rub as the steering nears lock. The tires will rub on the "framerail" as it is. It's the box channel portion of the unibody, behind the crossmember where it melds into the firewall. I rub at full lock, and I'm lifted 4" and running 235/75r15 Allterrains. Those turn out to be 29.something inches diameter. So 31x10.5 will reduce your turning ability by a fair amount. Which sucks when you're trying to navagate a trail. The largest I would run with a 4" lift is 30x9.5's. I ran Mud Kings in that size for a while.

Do you know if they put the camshafts back in the right spots? They say IN and EX on them, but I think you can put them in the wrong place. The timeing marks on the pullys would still line up if you put the pullys on the wrong cam. If you pull the valve cover, you can look at the cams, they will have their proper designation on them.

Wrx engine= 2.0l Horsepower (stock)= 227 They get modded from there. The problem with EA engines is that they are missing 8 valves. And 2 main bearings. And an aftermarket. Plus the bathtub head isn't exacly a performance design.

It's behind the side of the bumper cover, on the "frame rail", right where a trailer hitch attaches. Look directly behind the wheel well under the car.

The ones "without" a cannister actually have it in the back. It's a rectangular box behind one of the wheelwells underneath. The vacuum line doesn't pull fumes from the tank into the intake. It pulls fresh air through the carbon canister, which evaporates the gas absorbed in the carbon and sucks that into the intake. If you hook the vacuum line directly to the evap hose coming from the tank, you will pull a vacuum on the tank. This will make the fuel pump work harder, and if the gascap doesn't have a vacuum relief, crush the gas tank. If you look at the carbon cannister on the car that has it next to the airbox, you will see 3 hoses hooked up to it. One from the tank, the big one, one from the vacuum solenoid, the small one, and another big one coming out from the bottom of the cannister and running into the framerail. This is the fresh air vent.

I've burned out exhaust valves on cyl 3 too. EJ22. Started with a miss climbing a long hill at WOT. Miss went away after idling the engine for a bit. Ran fine for a day, then came back with a vengance the next morning. Drove it for a while on 3cyls. Replaced head, burned a valve out of that head, same cyl. Drove for a few thousand miles on that engine running on 3. I unhooked the fuel injector for the cyl and just drove it like I stole it the whole time.

Yes, that's the spirit! You can never have too many tools. The potential that a welder opens up is amazing.

Miracle tranny fix does work. We mudbogged the snots out of a chevy truck with 200+k miles on it, and the tranny started spewing ATF out of the TC seals on the way to work the next day. Little too much mud in the bellhousing I guess. A quart of miracle tranny fix in it, and it held fluid long enough to sell it. If it's only leaking a little bit, I would ignore it.

Wow. That sits kinda high with the 4wd wagon springs in it. Did you throw the angle iron welded rusthole of a crossmember off a cliff?

Uh, you saw my wagon right? That's what real rust looks like. Holes in the rocker you can fit your hand in. Your sedan is in mint shape. The first step is to start poking with a flathead screwdriver. Use a wire wheel on a grinder to clean the area up some. Then use a rust converter paint, they sell brush on stuff at auto parts stores, it's phosphoric acid and a primer. Rivet or weld in replacement metal, skimcoat the joints with bondo and paint it up.

You have to remove the A pillar trim, unbolt the seatbelt track and let it hang, then undo the nuts that hold the antenna base. Remove the drivers side kick panel and the center console bucket that's in front of the shifter. You will see the connector for the antenna behind this bucket, on the drivers side underneath the ashtray area. Pull this apart. Strongly duct tape a sturdy piece of string to the loose end of the antenna lead. Pull it through under the carpet, it make take some hard jerks to get the tape that holds it to the floor pan to come loose. Once you have it all pulled out to the kick panel, pull it up the A-pillar and out the antenna hole. Use the string to pull the new antenna lead back through.

I got a qote from a dealer for $78. That was for just the pads, nothing else. So I went and bought the dirt cheap pads, which sucked.

The difference between the $12 set of pads and the $30 set of pads can be impressive. My wagon, which I run oversized wheels on, couldn't lock up the front wheels under any conditions with the cheap pads. I found a box of new wagner pads kicking around my garage, and threw them in. I can now lock up the front wheels on dry pavement if I stand on the pedal. So big difference. Cheap pads really suck.

How did the flexplate look when you had the engine out? If it's cracked bad enough, it can sound like bad bearing knock, and phase in and out. The TC also acts as the engines flywheel, so if the Flexplate is sheared completely, it'll idle rough. The impact of a cracked flexplate can also set off the knock sensor, which will retard the timing, way back. Like so far back the engine can be floored and be bogging on the flat. If you have the engine out of the 92 which is good, I'd give this car a couple of italian tuneups and see if you can either get the problem so bad it's obvious, or get whatevers causing problems to loosen up and work right.

Change the AT fluid at least 3 times in quick succesion. If the binding goes away with the FWD fuse in, it's a really good chance the fluid changes will fix it. This is something you can do in your driveway with a funnel, drainpan, and 17mm wrench. The Limited slip additive is a last ditch attempt. The less friction modifiers you add into a tranny beyond the additive package the ATF has the better. This rumor of rear diff fluid changes fixing the cornering binding probably comes from Honda CRV owners. CRV's have a bad problem with the rear diffs chattering if the fluid isn't changed on schedule. Speaking of which, your transmission should have had 5 fluid drains and refills by now if you followed the maint' schedule's recomended 30k mile intervals. I bet it's running on the origional fluid.