WoodsWagon

Buy some cheap agressive tread snow tires, like the $50 bracket priced tires. $200 for the set of 4, plus $40 for a set of used steelies in the Junkyard, and you have a set of good snow shoes to get you through the winters. I've seen people commute 4 hours a day, mostly highway, on cheap snows and have them hold up fine. The rub is you have to pull them off when the weather gets warm. Soft compound rubber, warm weather, hot pavement, they dissapear FAST. All seasons are by nature a compromise, so they suck at everything. Snows excell in winter only, but if you have them on a spare set of rims, it doesn't matter.

Yes it will, but you will need to patch those floorpans as well so that it has the bracing it needs. Got a MIG welder?

Yeah, this lesson is the suck. Luckily I watched a friend learn it, so I've been spared. He bought a 1999 Toyota Tacoma limited, sunroof, rear locker, 5spd, V6, you name it the truck had it. Looked beautiful, body was in great shape, ran awesome, paid good money for it. Drove it around untill the frame folded climbing a snowbank. Patched to together, and sold it to a canadian guy for 3k less than he paid and told the guy about the frame. Sucks for someone working a $10 an hour job to loose 3k in a month. ALWAYS CHECK THE UNDERSIDE. Now, for the bright side. Your loyale's rear crossmember will bolt into the XT's rear end. You can make patch plates to go over the rear floorpan corners to fix that mounting point. Any place that looks rusty, poke it with a screwdriver. Weld everything you can. You will need to strip the carpets out of the interior, and keep a bottle of water handy, the car will catch fire while you're welding it. You got hosed for 1,200. I can't say what I'd do in your situation. My friends term that behavior as "he's getting beligerant". See if you can find a legal remedy for the situation, like if it's legal to sell a car that's uninspectable in your state. Some states make you list a car as "for parts or salvage" on the title and bill of sale if it's not inspectable.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1107352

What model of car? Wider tires will suck in the snow.

Piston Slap. From light ticking to continuous knocking like my mom's outback does. Headgaskets. Knock sensors. Starter soleniod contacts. But other than that they're OK engines.

If you feel the need to post videos of subarus being beaten on that aren't yours, please post them up here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?s=&daysprune=&f=68 Cluttering up the old gen with stupid videos of people beating cars is a PITA. There is a whole bunch of subaru abuse videos on Youtube, and before you guys find them and post them in individual threads, take it to another section of the board. Bemoaning the death of a crappy 80's car and thumping your chest about how they should all be preserved and how you love them to death is foolish. If you're on this board, it could be assumed that you like subarus. You don't need to prove to us how much you love them. And, I fully support beating the hell out of old vehicles. Loads of cars and trucks are sent to the junkyard in fully operational condidtion. This is a waste of potential when you could beat them, then put them in the junkyard. Plus, it's loads of fun killing a car. You just have to know how to do it right, don't hit the radiator or oil pan, everthing else is fair game.

So did this help?

I put a RX LSD in the back of my wagon a week ago, and now that I'm running RWD temporarily, I've noticed a couple things about it. First off, when put under load it pretty much locks solid. It's like driving with a welded rear when you pull out and take a turn at the same time. The inside wheel (235/75r15 BFG all terrain) will scuf the whole way round the turn. As soon as you release the load on the diff, it releases and stops scuffing. Not sure if this is normal operation or not, I didn't think they locked this tight. It's easy to get the car completely broadside on pavement because of this. The second thing is that under a partial load while turning, it will kinda chatter, It sounds almost like a broken spider gear, but it's fine when it's coasting and fine when it's under full load and fully locked. It's a really anoying thing because it puts a lot of impact load on the rest of the drivetrain, plus you look like a fool backing out of a parking space while the car is kicking like a bastard and clanging. When I took the diff apart to change the ratio, it only had about 3/4 of a cup of black and thick gear oil in it. There was a fair bit of residue on everything in the case. The bearings weren't galled or blued though, so I hoped it had survived. The break away torque checks out too when the rear is up in the air. I put 80/90 GL5 LSD gear oil in, which I assumed was the right stuff.

The rest of the teeth were all there... in a pile at the bottom of the extension housing. Yeah, pounding second while the car is sideways may not have been the best idea.

This tranny had 90k miles on it, I broke a front axle and proceded to smoke up 215/75 15's on the rear whenever I had the chance. 2 diffs, 3 driveshalfts, and then the tranny let go. Took it apart in school, swapped in good gears from a tranny I dragged out of the state forest, and It'll be back together next wednesday. Here's the two gears that route power to the rear driveshalft from the pinion shaft: Yes I know it's out of focus but my camera was free and can't focus because it was in the glovebox of a truck when it rolled.

This is traditionally caused by a sticking governor valve. There is a round cover on the upper pasenger side of your tranny, with 3 bolts holding it on. Pull it off, and pull the governor out after you do. Check the gears for apple-coring, and clean the valve assembly with solvent and compressed air.

Any 1995-2004 tacoma with a v6 has the 3.4, so the 3.sl0 that you dislike wasn't ever a factor in Tacomas. So telling Uberoo that a tacoma V6 isn't worth a crap is BS. The 22re was the compatriot to the 3.sl0, so comparing the headgasket issues of both of them is perfectly apropriate. Saying all yota V6's are crap is like bashing on EJxx's for having 5 main bearings... Yeah, mabe the 3.4 has moved away from the simplicity of a carbed 22r, but it's just as reliable with more power to boot.

Then why do I go through halfshalfts like candy when my struts are only extended an extra inch?

They are the same bulbs as what is in the rest of the dashboard switches and climate controls, HOWEVER, they are soldered to the radio face's circuit board, so you must have a soldering iron, not a gun, tweezers, solder wick or a soldersucker and patience to replace them. It can be done though. And it's nice to be able to see the preset buttons and the LCD at night again.

As others have said, the dealership did exacly what SOA expected of them. When you do a Pre-Delivery-Inspection (PDI), you do things like installing the rubber plugs in the body tie down holes, check and fill all fluids, initialize TPMS, auto windows, sunroof autostops, preset clock and radio, and install rear plate frame and install front plate bracket. Some Hondas come with a plate bracket that bolts onto the underside of the bumper and then has a self tapping screw that goes into the bumper skin. Other have plate brackets that are held on just by self tapping screws into the bumper skin. Seeing as we sell a lot of cars across the Massachussets border, where front plates aren't required, on the ones that are bolted from underneath, we don't put the screw into the bumper, we lable the bag an put it in the glovebox. Oh, and we are not greasy Billy Bob's either. If you think all dealer tech's are greasy toothless a-holes you can screw yourself. The dealer did what was required of them, and that Dealer Billboard that they put on the front is meant to be replaced with your liscence plate when you get real ones instead of the 20 day on. I don't think I've seen anyone driving around with a dealer placard in the front plate location.

Bought a GCK halfshaft for my car back in May 07 for my car. Installed it around June sometime. Blew the outer joint this morning commuting to school. The race inside the joint cracked into two seperate rings, one went into the boot, the other went deeper into the joint. Of course all the balls instantly went into the boot. Sounded like a gunshot when it blew, and the truck behind me at the intersection nearly rear ended me when I went from accel to instant coast. So that's 5 months out of a GCK halfshalf. Oh, and that lifetime warranty Autozone babbles on about? Doesn't help you when they don't carry GCK anymore, they have none in stock, and manufacturer will not refresh stock at the main warehouse. I can go for a Duralast REMAN axle in trade, but I know how that will go.

You haven't driven a tacoma V6, have you? The 3.4 is a totally different motor than the 3.sl0. Put a TRD supercharger on the 3.4 and you've got something special. The 22r isn't any better when it comes to headgaskets, my uncle sold his 4runner after replacing the 3rd headgasket in 150k miles. I've seen a headgasket manufacturer advertising their special coated gasket that will hold even in the 22r. As much as a toyota person as I am (01 excab Taco 3.4 5spd 4x4), I'd have to say go for the dodge. It's got solid axles front and rear, so it will articulate better, it's built stronger because its a 250 chassis, you can upgrade the hubs. The 727 tranny if its and auto is a big block tranny, plenty strong. Oh, and visit http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/more_power/Power_ve.htm for some tips on the diesel's power potential.

I'm sorry, but being 19 and hanging out with plenty of other "sons", I have a very hard time believing that A. He was just going down the highway, mosying his way along in a Turbo Sedan, and B. It just quit. Yeah, like my differential "just popped" Or my transmission "I dunno, I was just shifting second and it let go"

What time? Oh, and send me a set of directions too, this time i'll try and not get lost in salem and end up on the wrong side of the bridge.

I'm used to having a pile of shims on each side of the case where the bearing cap goes in on the R160 diffs. The one I pulled apart today had NO SHIMS. Does this mean someone took it apart in the past and didn't put them in, or should I put it back together with no shims? I don't really want to do the whole backlash/contact pattern adjustments but not having any shims worries me. It looked like an origional gasket on the rear cover, and the level of corrosion was in line with it never having been taken apart before..

If you bring rocky I will trade you a lifted loyale ride for an XT6 ride...

I bought a pump meant for a Fuel injected F150 w/ 351. It's a frame mounted pump, you have to adapt the hose size to fit, but it's rated for 90psi and a reasonable GPH. It was $87.50 from my local parts store.

Just don't get caught working under a car like I did by the owner of the property. Apparently he wasn't pleased and let charlie know as much.. which sucked. But yeah, loads of old subie parts down there, lots of EA81 and EA82 cars to be picked over. As Charlie said "It's a subaru lovers dream, and it's dissapearing."

That's because your one is misadjusted. If you adjust the cable right, you can have the brakes release just as the clutch starts to catch, making it so you have like a 6" rollback without touching the handbrake or doing the pedal dance, which for people like me (M14) is a real nice option. Spend some time dialing it in, you might actually like it.