WoodsWagon

Find a loyale wagon in the junkyard and grab everything off of it. I'm not sure if the older body's will have the bolt holes for the top mount, but you might get lucky. Loyales are gauranteed to have them. You'll need the rear inside trim panels as well.

If you want to go different, go with an EZ30. More displacement, more power, more torque, timing chains instead of belts, and more importantly, shorter. As in may-actually-fit-in-engine-bay shorter. Unlike the ER27, which had to have the nose of the xt redesigned to fit around it. Same with the EG33, it's just too long of an engine to fit. The EZ30 was designed to fit in the 4cyl engine bay however, so it's a lot closer to fitting than anything else.

Sitting in michagan = wet and rust. The linkage may have rusted and jammed a bit. The hard to push it into park feeling was probably you bending the shift rod. I'd spray the whole linkage down with penetrating oil after straightening it. Might be a good Idea to head to a junkyard and get a spare linkage, because usually when they bend, snapping isn't far behind.

Looks like a wonderful sleeper project. Total ratbag from the outside, untill it passes you. Do I dare ask how much you paid?

That's exactly how six lug is done. Now, you have two options, drill holes in the wheels or drill holes in the hub and put studs in. I chose to drill holes in my wheels, so I have 4 unused holes in the center of the rim.

Pretty much count me in. I'll have to put the passenger seat back in the wagon and clean what's left of the interior and give rides.

read this: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51682 second page is where the directions are.

Why? Do you really want another electronic nanny screwing with your inputs to the car? You'll need to do a fair bit of custom plumbing, plus mount reluctor wheels on all 4 wheels, then mount the sensors with the correct air gap. It's a lot of effort for not much gain, in my bias opinion.

Or, this is a novel idea, REPLACE THE KNOCK SENSOR! If you have a good knock sensor in the proper place and oriented correctly on the block, your detonation will go away, you can run any grade of gas you want and all will be well with the world. The sensor can fail to being too sensitive and trigger at anything. Replacing it with a new one will fix the problem. Believe me, I have been down this road. I relocated it, which was all well and good until we had to tow a trailer, at which point it detonated like you wouldn't believe. I swapped on a sensor from one of my spare blocks, in the propper place, and it's been perfect ever since. It gets better milage on 89 than 87, which means that the timing is compensating for the signal from the knock sensor, which is what it's supposed to do.

Is that heated cloth seats I see? That's a nice option. Shifter bushings are about 30 bucks from the dealer. The hardest part about replacing them is getting the shifter yoke to come off of the shaft on the tranny. You drive 2 roll pins out and theoretically it slides off the shaft. In reality, a torch, punch and hammer are needed. Looks like a nice car in really good shape.

Well, my loyale had 151k on it when i got it. I put about 1k on it with the stock setup, then lifted it and put big tires on it. The odometer rolled onto 170k this week, so 170-152= 18k Tires are 30% oversized so 18x1.3=23.4k So 152+23.4= 175.4k. Those last 23.4k miles have been pretty brutal though, the origional engine was hydrolocked and bent a rod, the second engine burned 2 valves as well as a fair bit of oil, and the third engine is holding for now. Numerous welding patches on the body.

This: + = Failure. I'm sorry but if you aren't well versed in turning wrenches and cutting wiring and knowing what belongs where in a car, you shouldn't even be thinkin about an EJ swap. It's not like a honda civic where you can pull up to a performance shop with some money and leave with a B16 under the hood. Timing belts are easy. It was the first real automotive job I ever did. I was 12 mabe 13 at the time I think. Up till then my only experience had been on small power equipment and tractors. It was my dad's old car, had 9x,000 miles on it and the T-belt snapped. He couldn't figure out why it wouldn't run. I figured it out and swapped in a new belt using a Haynes manual and some of his tools on my own. Beat that 3-door for years.

Why are you replacing the tranny? Some of the more common problems can be fixed in car, which could save you a lot of time and effort.

I'm hoping you're talking about a wet nitrous system, because a 50hp shot of dry will lean out the mix and fry the engine in no time. Wet shot, you might have a chance. It would be fun while it lasted.

If it has a 4speed automatic, probably. Three speed don't even bother.

By stiff out of the box I mean there was one angle you could not make the outer joint go by hand, the rest of it's rotation you could push it through by hand. The right hand axle on my car felt fine out of the box and it's worked great. I've chipped the CV boot on that one though, so I'll have to glue it a bit to keep the grease in.

I've been thinking along the same lines for when I smoke my turbo-wagon motor. I could pick up an ez30 for 450 max, it was in a flood car though. The insides of the valvecovers look good, but who knows about the cyl's. Engine management is what I'd be concerned by. If i could get the ECU and harness for it it would be awsome, but... I'm not sure it's available.

Or just change the filter out for another one. It seems that if the engine is taking a noticeable amount of time to build pressure, the oil system is leaking down. A faulty or missing anti-drainback valve in the filter could easily do this. Next time you change the oil, warm the engine up, chuck a quart of ATF into it and let it idle for five minutes. DO NOT DRIVE IT. Drain the old oil out and put fresh in, the ATF gets a lot of the crud out of the engine.

Needlenose vicegrips to unthread the broken piece of plastic off of the threaded rod inside the handle. Use regular pliars to get the pushbutton off of parts car 1990-99 all interchange. Use needle nose pliars to gently pull on threaded rod while pulling up e-brake handle, it will click into one of the ratchet notches. This holds the threaded rod out while you put the spring and replacement button on.

I've had the exact same thing happen to my GCK axle. I bought it brand new from autozone, noticed it had a bit of a stiff spot out of the box, put it in, and I get a vibration on acceleration. The first couple of hunderd miles were hell, it's gotten a bit better now but it's still there. I'm trying to break it to trade it in on it's lifetime warranty.

Samuri for one reason only FULL FRAME unibody's suck. It's 2 am after a day with only 3hours sleep last night, and my wagon's floor is still needing more patches. If this was a frame, we'd be done by now. stupid thin tearing/crushing sheetmetal. Have to be up by 6:20am for another day of school

The mpfi won't play with the EA81. If it was spfi, you could, but it isn't so it has to be carbed. You will need a carb fuel pump and some sort of fuel pump controller, as it won't be turned on by the ECM any more. Please don't use a toggle switch, when you crash and are trapped in a flaming car busy pumping more gas into the fire you will regret it. The tranny will bolt up, and I think the TC and flexplate should be fine.

So play it safe and at least disconnect the battery when you do some welding on the body. Preferably pull the connectors going to the ECU while you're at it. I used to take the safety precautions, but I had gotten lax. Welded up exhaust without pulling power, welded up the rear floorpans and wheel well sides without it, and got away with it. Last night we were up to midnight patching some of the tears in the firewall. I needed to leave for work at 6am, so the pressure was on. Finished tacking some of the cracks, hopped in the car, crank-no start. Could smell the fuel coming out the tailpipe. Checked for spark, nothing. At this point many cliche's could be used such as sweating bullets, ************ting bricks, ect. I went and grabbed an igniter, coilpack and ECU out of my parts pile left over from a FWD legacy. Coilpack and igniter didn't revive the spark, so I swapped out the ECU. Still nothing. So I plugged the old ECU back in. Car starts. My only theory is that the time the ECU wasn't plugged in gave it time to reset and somehow work right again? But why didn't the FWD auto ECU work then? Anyhow, it's running. Way to close to loosing it. So from now on it's getting unhooked before any welding goes down.

If you take out the 4 bolts that hold the crossmember to the body and the exhaust hanger rubbers off, you can usually slip the tank out without disconnecting driveshalfts and whatnot. If it's leaking at the seams, I'd replace it. Think if you get rear-ended, you don't want your JB weld popping off and 15 gallons of gas pouring out. Gas tank patch epoxy is for punctures, not rust.

The rust is killing it in the back, but it's clean up where the body is failing up front. I bent the strut rod into a banana shape 2? or 3 years ago, and it damaged where the lift blocks hook in. We made a setup of linked liftblocks to triangulate them, but I think that hit may have concaved that area a bit. After a couple years of abusive driving, the concave area just spread and pushed in further. It creaks every time you hit the gas or brakes, esp. the brakes. I'll work on it tomorrow after I get out of school at 2pm.